06-17-2008, 03:15 PM | #31 |
Join Date: May 2008
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I am using Shell Rotella T W30 for my breakin and then I would like to switch to Mobile 1 Syn 4T Racing.
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06-17-2008, 04:03 PM | #32 | |
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Altamont, Kansas
Posts: 15,103
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Quote:
Allen
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07-06-2008, 10:30 PM | #33 |
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Valvoline vr1
Strangely enough, the oil that lasts the longest in my bike and maintains the smoothest shifting is valvoline vr1 racing oil. it does not say energy conserving but the website says there are friction modifiers. In any case, this stuff lasts longer than the synthetic I was using.
no clutch issues either. |
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07-06-2008, 11:03 PM | #34 | |
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Quote:
Also my filter was free of any metal shavings. |
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07-07-2008, 01:51 AM | #35 |
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Spring, TX
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I replaced the original motor oil in my Roketta with 5w30 Royal Purple (full synthetic), is that going to ruin the break-in for my motor? Also, I've noticed a problem when going from 2nd back down to 1st, seems to get stuck in N and I have to let the clutch out a little, let the gears spin a little, then it will shift to first. could this be the oil?
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07-07-2008, 10:38 AM | #36 |
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Bofus that stuff will probably make your clutch act up. You'd be better off saving some cash and switching to some other oil.
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07-07-2008, 07:10 PM | #37 |
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Spring, TX
Posts: 12
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i think i'll probably keep the royal purple in there till i hit 50-75 miles then change it again as some people recommend. I'll prolly switch to 15w40, but whats the recommendation on brand and type (synth or not?). I don't want to cause any long term damage to the bike (obviously)
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07-07-2008, 07:11 PM | #38 |
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Altamont, Kansas
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I would use dino oil for the first few hundred miles at least. The royal purple is okay, but expensive for a china bike.
Any brand will do, just change it frequently . Allen
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07-07-2008, 10:08 PM | #39 |
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Southern Saskatchewan
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Just to echo what Sir KatoRanger said, yup Lots and Lots of changes.
Frankly, it doesn't matter whether the oil is Mobil, or Texaco, White Star or "GUANDAN PROVINCE PEOPLE'S OIL FACILITY" Brand. Even the finest synth. can't negate metal and aluminum paticles. Carbons, grunge, acids, yes. Steel Shards, no. Even clean cheapest of cheap crap is 100% better than dirty synthetic, No matter how awesomely expensive it was. --Vince
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07-26-2008, 10:51 PM | #40 |
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 144
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What oil should I use on my HSUN 200gy??
It calls for 5w 30 and i found that in conventional. Would that be ok to break it in? It is about mid 80s here in southern, IN. -Cory
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07-27-2008, 12:47 AM | #41 |
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Catskill Mnts NY
Posts: 85
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Im thinking of tryin this stuff out. I run the motul 505.1 diesel oil in my 2 VW diesels @ 10K changes (suposed to go 15K). Motul is good but a bit pricy.. Read the reviews
http://www.kneedraggers.com/details/...-38-MOT-1.html |
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07-27-2008, 01:32 PM | #42 |
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Toronto Ontario Canada
Posts: 2,585
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Pizza:
If it's clean, and dino, and doesn't say friction reducers, it should be fine. CLEAN->change it a lot, especially when new. Dino-> always for new bikes till the valves are seated. Friction reducers are not good for wet clutches.
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07-27-2008, 02:01 PM | #43 |
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Southern Saskatchewan
Posts: 491
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I'm more concerned about breaking in the rings than the valves, but everything IronFist said, x2.
Others may disagree (*will* disagree) but temps in the mid 80's, on a new engine, short trips, stop and go riding, I would say a 15w40 or straight 30 would be a better choice, but I really doubt the 5w30 would hurt it in any way... --Vince
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07-27-2008, 10:20 PM | #44 | |
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Quote:
Thanks! -Cory |
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08-06-2008, 09:59 PM | #45 |
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 10
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So is it ok to run auto oil or not????? CASTROL GTX SAE 10W-40??????
Will it kill my engine?????? I only have 50 miles on my LF200gy5????? thanks |
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