06-16-2020, 07:20 PM | #31 |
Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: SE Michigan
Posts: 21
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Thanks, duck. I'm in southern oakland county. not sure it's worth the hour trip up to borrow when amazon has them for $8. but I do appreciate the offer. what is the size of that tool? I'm figuring 28mm, but see the Honda tool listed as 24mm...
as an update, it looks like I'm throwing a piston, jug, and head at this thing! that's been dictated by the refusal of the dealer to replace the engine. honestly, at this point, I just want to get this thing back together and riding again (I'm starting to look at KLR650s on CL, that's how much I'm missing riding this past week...). I also have the reassurance of 9 months left on the engine warranty. so, if it grenades from junk in the case, it will do so quick enough and under warranty. Piston pulled off the con rod tonight with little effort, although I did manage to stab the fleshy part of my left hand with an oil covered dental pick as I was wrangling with the circlips... here is a few pics of the piston and broken valve... oh, and the dealer I bought this from was TXPowersports.com |
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06-16-2020, 07:21 PM | #32 |
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Volcano, Ca
Posts: 7,112
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Manny strikes again.
I hope you get it back on the road soon.
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"Light a fire for a man, and you heat him for a day. Light a man on fire, and you heat him for the rest of his life." 2007 Suzuki DRZ400S (SM convert) 2009 Q Link XP 200 1967 BSA B25 250cc Starfire 2022 Royal Enfield Interceptor 650 2023 Royal Enfield Scram 411 1948 Royal Enfield Model G 350 |
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06-16-2020, 07:30 PM | #33 |
Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: SE Michigan
Posts: 21
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oh, on a secondary note as well. I'm thinking about flushing the engine while disassembled to clear out as much debris as i can see. my ideas are below. I'd like some feedback on feasible and effective options from some of you more experienced motorcycle mechanics than my dumb ass. Thank you!
- hit the internals with a couple of cans of brake clean to wash out the harmfuls. blast it with air to dry and then liberally apply oil shortly thereafter to prevent rust. - use a chemical engine flush additive like liquid moly or stp to wash down any junk - atf or power steering fluid for a short run after re-assemble to clear out all the passages. - just slap her back together and use a couple of quick oil change intervals to get as much as possible out. possibly a magnet in the bottom crankcase bolt? |
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06-16-2020, 07:56 PM | #34 |
Join Date: May 2018
Posts: 1,639
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Get a can of diesel and flush it with that several times ,it’s cheap ,available ,and will work just fine .Have you tried your credit card for warranty ,or even dealing with Manny ? I can see trouble down the line if it does grenade ,”no warranty ,you had it all apart so you messed up “ ,and the credit card company can handle Manny just fine .
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06-16-2020, 08:53 PM | #35 |
Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: SE Michigan
Posts: 21
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yup. it's on my AMEX, so I got options... as an optimist, I try not to project that I'll have to go that route though...
so, it's all apart now. you think a diesel shower would clean out any missed sparklies? i'm somewhat worried about any remnant fluid contamination, but I suppose diesel is a petro product and would be caught up in the first oil change.... |
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06-16-2020, 09:17 PM | #36 |
Join Date: May 2018
Posts: 1,639
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Diesel fuel works very well,for something like this ,don’t be shy give it a try l.o.l. .It won’t harm anything and it is also a lubricant .Brake cleaner is expensive and you can’t really flush anything with it before it evaporates quickly .Another good one is some gasoline .
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06-17-2020, 12:44 AM | #37 |
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Florida
Posts: 759
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i second the diesel fuel suggestion, it's great for this type scenario. I know the engine is heavy but fill her partly up, swish , dump, repeat then let her air dry , that diesel will get most of the particulates to wash out ,lasts longer than brake kleen isnt as easy to flash ignite and is lot cheaper for a lot more. ,and as Bruces mentioned its also somewhat of a lubricant .
And yeah, i figured all along you were getting "Manny'd" .Hope it runs fine and lasts after the rebuild bc good luck getting the engine out of him if it should grenade afterwards, under Warranty still or not.
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2001 Mustang GT 2004 Sportster 2018 VADER 2020 Orion RXB250L |
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06-17-2020, 01:49 AM | #38 |
Join Date: Jan 2020
Location: Lesotho
Posts: 105
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Several people have already given their opinion, but if you want another idea, here's mine. Kerosene works great for washing out engines in my experience. It's less oily than diesel which, in my opinion, seems to a little sticky or something. I'm not sure how common kerosene is on your side of the Atlantic, but you can get it at every little shop here because people cook, heat, and light with it.
Sorry to hear about this early failure! |
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07-15-2020, 09:07 PM | #39 |
Join Date: Nov 2019
Posts: 99
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Any update on this?
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07-16-2020, 07:06 AM | #40 |
Join Date: Jan 2020
Location: Lesotho
Posts: 105
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Maybe Youreekaa will say more, but his thread on the reassembly is here:
http://chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=26786 |
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10-17-2020, 04:40 PM | #41 |
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: nw of atlanta
Posts: 169
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youreekaa, was this under warranty? If it was, I'd be sending TXpowesports a bill for labor, materials, and shop overhead. If it was parts-only, never mind...
Besides taking more pictures, did you have any 'sequence' tribulations? I know some things need 'this' removed before 'that', and when assembling, sometimes "THIS" cannot be installed if you installed "THAT" before its time. I have a takeapart coming on a CG250, and am looking to avoid the chinese puzzle syndrome if possible. Did you find any other resources besides the CG125 material? tom |
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10-17-2020, 08:26 PM | #42 |
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Marseille, France -> Conakry, Guinea
Posts: 1,481
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If that's something you're worried about, maybe you should pay someone to tackle it. Otherwise, I've got a factory CG125 manual, I could help you via PM. You should buy a torque wrench, if you don't already have one. What are you doing to the motor?
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10-18-2020, 10:17 AM | #43 |
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Florida
Posts: 759
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I've said this before and I will say it again - Dealers Expecting / requiring a Buyer to do deep internal Engine Repairs on a valid Warranty Claim is 100% pure unadulterated BS imo.
If the Dealer does not want to provide a new Engine, then ship them the broken one and let THEM do the work, and they can send it back to you repaired. I understand these are Chinese Bikes and the Dealer support is not what a Jap Bike etc. enjoys, but at the same time NO ONE would have the engine explode in their Ford, Chevy, or even KIA or Hyundai and then accept the response from the Dealer " We will send you the parts to fix it ,the labor is on you". If the Dealer claims they do not have the capability / facilities to effect Repairs ,then you are back to them sending you a complete new Engine ready to go. I understand that buying a Chinese Bike entails YOU being the support dept but this is beyond that,you can't expect the average Buyer to have the time nor skill to do that degree of repair ,especially for free and because the Dealer won't do the actual right thing.
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2001 Mustang GT 2004 Sportster 2018 VADER 2020 Orion RXB250L |
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10-18-2020, 08:42 PM | #45 |
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: PNW
Posts: 983
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I think the Dealers push the issue because they know most people who buy a China Bike have limited financial resources to spend on a bike and/or they count on people not pushing the issue. You know it's a fix it, so fix it! This is a perfect case to have an attorney go after them on the warranty issue! Maybe get some damages too!
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