06-14-2020, 01:37 PM | #1 |
Join Date: Apr 2019
Location: Amherst NH
Posts: 105
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Hawk 2 questions oil change and bolt
So hit 100 miles on the hawk and decided an oil change was in order. This lead me to 2 questions.
1) does anyone know the thread on the bolt for the oil change? I run magnetic on all my cars and want to get one for the hawk as I found a small piece of metal in the old oil. 2) How much oil does the Hawk take, and the sight glass on the rhs where should the oil be when the bike is level (top, middle, bottom)? As always thanks in advance (for your answers and patience).
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06-14-2020, 02:08 PM | #2 |
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Bay City, MI
Posts: 398
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Well, the side bolt to change the oil has the spring and filter screen behind it. Not sure you'll find a magnetic version for that bolt, but the other crankcase drain bolt may be a good spot to put one.
You don't get any more oil out using that bolt to drain, but it would suffice to collect metallic particles with a mag bolt in there. (EDIT for more accurate info: you do get more oil out, not much, but it drains the lowest part of the sump and is now recommended to drain from both bolts). My owners manual says it takes 1.6qts. Not sure mine took that much going by the sight glass and the dipstick. I can't recall, maybe it did. In the sight glass oil level when holding the bike straight and upright should be about 3/4 full. Dipstick should read at the top of the hashed section. Last edited by Deckard_Cain; 06-15-2020 at 08:42 AM. |
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06-14-2020, 03:46 PM | #3 |
Join Date: Apr 2019
Location: Amherst NH
Posts: 105
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Thank you very much for that. It does lead to a perhaps even dumber question.... There's a side bolt to change the oil? And of course, where? Oh Yeah Owners Manual?
Again thanks in advance.
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Toys include Audi B7, running Stage 2+, S4 Brakes. My VW Vanagon is running 2.5l VVT Subaru engine, 18" AMG wheels, Porsche 944 Steering Wheel, W eekender interior. 1989 VW Vanagon Bluestar one of 2500, 1986 Honda Shadow, 2000 Suzuki Intruder, 1988 Kawasaki Voyager XII, 1976 Mercury Capri II, a bunch of Trailers including a shortened Vanagon for camping, a Sequoia and the latest addition a 2019 Hawk 250. (But dont tell the wife! ) (Latest latest addition a 1995 fwd Subaru SVX) |
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06-14-2020, 06:48 PM | #5 | ||
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Bay City, MI
Posts: 398
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Quote:
Quote:
About 1qt is all mine took as well. I remember now... Because I transferred the oil from a 2.5 gallon container into a single qt and I had perhaps 4oz left in the bottle. |
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06-14-2020, 08:21 PM | #6 |
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Omaha, NE
Posts: 8,100
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I always used to drain the oil from the bottom drain bolt, and then remove the side screen to clean it, which got a little more oil out that was trapped inside. Not removing the bottom drain bolt leaves a fair bit of oil from the lowest spot of the sump, which is where most of the particulates collect.
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06-14-2020, 08:49 PM | #7 |
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Central Ohio
Posts: 297
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Everything Dan said
Everything Dan said is exactly how I do mine.
I took out just the side bolt/screen/filter the first time I changed mine, then the bottom and a good bit still came out. So now I always drain bottom first then remove side to clean the filter screen. My Brozz takes 28 oz. to get it to just a little smidge over half the sight glass with the bike level. The first time I did oil change, I piddled with it till I got the sight glass where I wanted it exactly and measured in the amount I added. Then I designated a "fill cup" and put a mark on it so everytime I do a change i can just fill the cup and go. No more messing or over filling. Right spot everytime. Other people may disagree, but I read somewhere to basically disregard the dipstick as it is not too accurate. I just use the sight glass. A magnetic bolt is a good idea, something I want to add with my next big Amazon order lol. You will see really fine metal and other particles until about your 750 mile change, then it starts to clear up. |
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06-15-2020, 05:52 PM | #8 | |
Join Date: Jan 2020
Posts: 287
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Quote:
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06-15-2020, 10:35 PM | #9 |
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Central Ohio
Posts: 297
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Nope.
28 ounces exactly with pulling the drains, letting it sit for ten minutes til no more drips, and refill. 28 takes it to exactly a smidge over half full every time so far.
I think the manual states just under a quart and I measured that in the first time I changed and it over filled quite a bit according to the sight glass. Manual also states if adding to a completely dry engine. Which you won't ever achieve once it's had oil in it. Please correct me if I am wrong about not filling past sight glass full mark. On my sight glass, there are two marks, a low and a high. A witches tit hair smidgeon past half full on the glass puts it almost exactly between the two marks with the bike sitting level. So I always went off that. The dipstick seemed to do all kinds of inaccurate stuff so I never use it. I think it is for a quick road side check to see if you are dry or not, but more honestly, I think it is there for a fill spot and they figured might as well add a dipstick to the cap. |
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06-15-2020, 10:54 PM | #10 |
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Central Ohio
Posts: 297
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For Spins
Since I am a paranoid type of guy who over thinks everything, I noticed you have a '18 Brozz. So had it quite a bit longer than me having mine. Do you add 38 ounces when you change? Does the level go above half on the sight glass?
I may be incorrect, I was just going off what I had read on this site from previous posts. If my memory serves me correctly, one of the more experienced posters on here had added to just go off sight glass half full with bike level. Maybe I have been underfilling this whole time? I don't think so but possibly. I do remember when I changed the shipping oil out before my first start I let it drain overnight, and I added 32 ounces which is one quart, and the sight glass was full with no visible clear spot. So overfilled, then I drained until half full and measured the rest out to 28 ounces. I believe the sight glass has marks that say H and L. Please follow up and lmk where you fill yours to. |
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06-16-2020, 12:00 AM | #11 |
Join Date: Jan 2020
Posts: 287
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Humm
My bike has a little over 400 miles . I changed the break in oil right around 100 miles. I’m due for another oil change. As you can see in the pic. I’m slightly over the middle mark . Actually I remember adding a little too much oil, an ounce or two, so this is closer 39 or 40 Ounces. I remember checking the site glass after starting and letting it settle. It looks good to me. I’m not sure how your not getting at least a Quart of oil in your engine.
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06-16-2020, 07:41 AM | #12 |
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Marseille, France -> Conakry, Guinea
Posts: 1,481
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You probably aren't actually over filling it if you add a full quart/liter. These engines were originally designed to use a liter of oil, that way it would be a nice, easy, round measurement for people to follow. Unless you're getting tons of oil blowing on to the filter, or the motor hydro locks from too much oil, you aren't over filling it if you exceed the sight glass.
My guess is that Chinese manufacturers added the sight glass to a convient location on the clutch cover to match standards of more expensive manufacturers. I don't think they invested much engineering r&d to find a good, precise spot. I think with these, the sight glass is better used as a telltale that the oil is getting degraded and it's time to change it (or that there's actually oil in it), rather than gospel truth as to the necessary level of oil. |
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06-16-2020, 10:11 AM | #13 | ||
Join Date: Apr 2019
Posts: 336
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Quote:
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06-17-2020, 07:27 AM | #14 |
Join Date: Aug 2019
Posts: 53
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Great, now I'm questioning the accuracy of the sight glass on my X-pect 200cc. The sight glass would indicate it takes less than 1qt. Should I go by the sight glass or just put in a full quart?
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06-17-2020, 07:30 AM | #15 |
Join Date: Jan 2020
Posts: 287
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I’d go by the manual. It’s written for a reason.
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