Minor Paladin Assembly issues

Thumper · 10-23-2024, 02:29 PM

As usual, there are minor assembly issues.

So the kickstand is a nice cast aluminum piece with a foot that is retained with a bolt (looks like a 10mm bolt, maybe 8mm on quick glance). This means it should be possible to cut the thing shorter after lowering the bike, drill a new hole and cut threads, and reinstall the foot. We will see.

BUT, the spring is tooo long, so the kickstand is floppy. It took no effort to pull the spring over the upper position with the kickstand up, so it bounces! EDIT: I found the rubber hanger that holds it up later. It works, though not possible to connect from the seat. modifying the lower spring mount is the answer. Will post...

I will fab a shorter metal piece (z-shaped) for the bottom spring mount position on the kickstand to tension it a little. Should be enough to tighten the spring sufficiently. I greased the kickstand mounting bolt where it contacts the kickstand, threadloc on the mounting threads and locking nut behind there. That's all good.

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There were two m6-1.0 bolt mounts -misaligned brass inserts on the right, and left side rear tail assembly mounts (see them on each side of the battery retaining bracket bolt in the photo below). I will deal with that shortly, but they give you 4 ~10mm SS M6 allen bolts to mount that back tail section that seem a little short (but nice wire handling on this bike there). Edit: The airbox and battery tray sandwich the rear frame. It can be pushed into place, but I went ahead and enlarged the mounting holes. to make it easy to bolt the rear fender on...

The battery mounting bolt was misthreaded in the brass insert, and would not turn. I inadvertently broke it loose from the plastic when I tried to remove it. I cannot get the battery bracket off, so will have to take off the inner wheel well plastic and get to it from behind there. Not sure what I will replace it with-probably just a nut/bolt and washers-threadlocked. I can cut a hole in the wheel well so I can get to a nut back there to remove the battery, then just duct tape it between battery removal(s). I might find a plug instead of tape. Time to go fishing in the parts bin. This is manageable.

10-23-2024, 02:29 PM	#1
Thumper Join Date: Feb 2021 Location: Kansas City Posts: 2,725	Minor Paladin Assembly issues As usual, there are minor assembly issues. So the kickstand is a nice cast aluminum piece with a foot that is retained with a bolt (looks like a 10mm bolt, maybe 8mm on quick glance). This means it should be possible to cut the thing shorter after lowering the bike, drill a new hole and cut threads, and reinstall the foot. We will see. BUT, the spring is tooo long, so the kickstand is floppy. It took no effort to pull the spring over the upper position with the kickstand up, so it bounces! EDIT: I found the rubber hanger that holds it up later. It works, though not possible to connect from the seat. modifying the lower spring mount is the answer. Will post... I will fab a shorter metal piece (z-shaped) for the bottom spring mount position on the kickstand to tension it a little. Should be enough to tighten the spring sufficiently. I greased the kickstand mounting bolt where it contacts the kickstand, threadloc on the mounting threads and locking nut behind there. That's all good. There were two m6-1.0 bolt mounts -misaligned brass inserts on the right, and left side rear tail assembly mounts (see them on each side of the battery retaining bracket bolt in the photo below). I will deal with that shortly, but they give you 4 ~10mm SS M6 allen bolts to mount that back tail section that seem a little short (but nice wire handling on this bike there). Edit: The airbox and battery tray sandwich the rear frame. It can be pushed into place, but I went ahead and enlarged the mounting holes. to make it easy to bolt the rear fender on... The battery mounting bolt was misthreaded in the brass insert, and would not turn. I inadvertently broke it loose from the plastic when I tried to remove it. I cannot get the battery bracket off, so will have to take off the inner wheel well plastic and get to it from behind there. Not sure what I will replace it with-probably just a nut/bolt and washers-threadlocked. I can cut a hole in the wheel well so I can get to a nut back there to remove the battery, then just duct tape it between battery removal(s). I might find a plug instead of tape. Time to go fishing in the parts bin. This is manageable. __________________ No matter where you go, there you are Last edited by Thumper; Today at 08:29 AM.
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