Boxster thread upon request ☺️

[Landsvw]

I bought a 2002 Porsche Boxster S this summer, for 4500$. At first, I was scared to death about owning a Porsche. But, after a bit, I have found they are pretty easy to work on and parts are not bad either. Here’s my first post on the things I’ve done up till now.

“Anything a German can over engineer, a Swede can fix.” - Me

Car records, as bought, calling and finding receipts in the car:

Boxster records August 13, 2019
Bought, Chico California

From Zeppelin Works in Chico (contacted) : oil changes, an ignition switch, an alternator and an alignment. Approx 1400$ 2014-18

New top 2018 approx 2500$ (receipt)

Chico Les Schwab put on tires approx 2014 (contacted)

Bought and drove home to Oregon, 300 miles...

The rest of this is my work:

8/13/2019 - 72,000; oil and filter. Mobil 1 (FS 0-w40 A40 Porsche), filter Purolator, 9 quarts (filter clean with no metal or signs of IMS issue). 58$

Fixed front and side plastics (missing clips and curb rash), vacuumed leaves from radiators, removed Sprint Booster, cleaned interior and trunks (mouse nest found) etc., registered and titled.

8/18/2019 - Need: cv axles, plus a front license plate bracket.

8/20/2019
Right front rim is bent, 3 out of 4 tires are worn inside edge and have to be replaced, rear and front brakes (rear especially bad) and I’m in the process of replacing. Axles will arrive tomorrow and I've got the left one out already and working on the right. Air filter was super dirty and, was not completely installed correctly. So put the new filter in and clipped the cover correctly. Finally, giant rat or squirrel nest on top of engine under the manifold. The starter makes a horrible buzzing noise and I'll pull that and grease it while I got the engine compartment open. Rear speakers aren't working. I noticed a red wire that had pulled out of Rear tray with the speakers in it where it plugs In. Am hoping that will fix it! I'll solder when I put the cover back on the engine. Power steering pump low on fluid to the point where it didn't show on stick so I think that's why it was whining. Will go buy the good stuff (Pentosin) tomorrow and add some.

8/21/2019
Throttle body removal and clean, starter removal, disassemble and grease, wash and vacuumed engine compartment, air filter, rear brakes, brake wear delete, CV axle install left side, battery 24 hour 2 amp charge, solder rear speaker wire (still no sound), added power steering fluid.

8/22/2019
Right side, CV axle
Ordered 4 tires, Achilles ATR Sport (good price on tires btw).
Porsche has different front and rear sizes. Rims are different width. No rotating...
17” tires

225/45 front
255/40 rear

8/24/2019
Programmed windows to lower 1/2” with top up (procedure sometimes necessary after battery disconnect) worked for a while then stopped working the next day? Will investigate. See notes below on repair of door locks.

Gears are stripped in my spoiler, so it will only come up with a tug to get it started. Light comes on at 75 indicating not functioning properly. So, I deactivated it with these instructions below, using the wires on the motor side. This will allow another unit to be installed with no other modifications necessary.

***Deactivating the rear spoiler warning light***
(From the internet)
Information: As of MY ’01, a new instrument cluster has been installed in Boxster and Boxster S vehicles. The display of the warning and indicator lights is now performed by light-emitting diodes (previously bulbs). The LEDs are soldered into the circuit board of the cluster, and are not removable. When installing an Aerokit in one of these vehicles, the spoiler warning light must be deactivated in a different manor than previously described in step 4.0 of bulletin 2/98.
Note: It is no longer necessary to remove the instrument cluster, skip steps 4.0 to 4.3 in bulletin
2/98.
Tools: Porsche press-out tool for electrical plug connections, number 87050
Work Procedure: 1.0 This procedure is be performed with step 3.1.2 (in bulletin 2/98), after the spoiler adjusting elements have been retracted.
1.1 Remove the rear luggage compartment lining and remove the relay carrier.
1.2 Remove brown relay 3 (extend spoiler relay) and brown relay 9 (retract spoiler relay) from relay carrier 2. Discard the relays. They are no longer required.
1.3 Disengage the 6-pin plug (only 5 are utilized) connection for the drive motor of the rear spoiler. It is located under the support of the rear spoiler assembly.
1.4 Using the connection diagram below, remove pin 1 and insulate. Remove pins 2 and 4 and swap locations with each other.
————————————————� �————————————————� ��———————————————— ————————————————� �——-
Pin Color Cross Function Instruction
Section
1 Blue/Green 1.00 Spoiler drive power Remove and insulate. Secure back on harness
2 Gray/Brown 0.35 Spoiler top position Remove and install in position 4
4 Gray/Green 0.35 Spoiler bottom position Remove and install in position 2
1.5 Reconnect the 6-pin plug, and install it back on the spoiler support.
Note: Do not leave the plug disconnected as noted in bold type in step 3.1.2."

————————————————� �————————————————� ��———————
8/25/2019
Worked on stereo; discovered rear speakers not connected and removed non operational phone microphone (now tucked inside switch tray at top of window).

8/30/2019 new tires installed, balance, and car aligned at Bills tire in Canyonville. (thank you Ralph!) Rear right could not be brought into spec. However, should not be an issue. Will keep an eye on tire wear. Drives super nicely now! Even the slightly bent rim is balanced out.

9/14/2019
Took door locks out of both sides of car. Resoldered the circuit boards. Now have working door locks, and security arms itself. Also, passenger door lowers the window correctly.

Installed frunk and trunk struts.

Gas door lock not working correctly so just removed the latch and won’t worry about it.

Had microswitches soldered onto key fob (for 50$, ugh...) but still not working, so I give up on remote door lock. Plan on getting normal but chipped spare key in the future.

I’ve put maybe 600 miles on her. This car is the best (and most expensive type) car I’ve ever owned (I’ve owned 93 cars). This car retailed for 50,000$ in 2002 which is 70,000$ in today’s money. There is no comparison to a 17,000$ car. Very nice driving vehicle with 260+ horsepower in a 2900 pound vehicle, with 6 speeds. Also, has aftermarket Bilstein shocks and an aftermarket exhaust I have discovered.

This car doesn’t care about corners. It will drive any corner at any speed I’m willing to try. It’s kind of insane. And, an on ramp is basically 2nd gear, 6000 rpms, and about 70 mph... no joke. Oh, 7000 is redline and the engine comes alive at 3000. But cruising is around 2300.

Ok, that’s it for now! Will update as I have more to say!