Hawk 250 technical info thread

Fame28 · 02-23-2016, 05:45 PM

If anyone has information or finds the info incorrect, please comment and I will be happy to update it. I think it would be helpful to have a goto spot for all things Hawk related. I'm new to the site and just purchased a Hawk 250, but I've tried to compile all the info from every thread I could find on this site about the bikes.

My brother and I also ordered from APCUSA.COM and very fast shipping from RPS, I just received them (the colors came as ordered green and black two pack) and are awaiting the MCO's. I highly doubt we will be able to register them here in NY as someone who just purchased three of them recently (not sure from what site) tried to register them and was only approved as ATB, so we may have to try the Vermont route, but I will update everyone once we know otherwise.

__________________________________________________ ________________________________________

Haosen Hawk 250 Hawk 250 model # HS250Y-A:

Manufacturer is officially Chongqing Haosen Motorcycle Co.,Ltd.

Registering the Bike:
INSURANCE - Inform them that it's a Chinese bike and give them the VIN. Also, here's a direct link to the manufacturer/model if you need to provide any specifics:
http://www.haosenmotor.com/Products/.../HS250Y-A.aspx

SPROCKETS/GEARING -
stock bike with 15T/50T gearing
17 tooth countershaft sprocket (what make and model - xl185?)
45 tooth rear - JT rear sprocket, model JTR269 - Rear sprocket order for XL185 (will have to remove 4 links if only changing rear sprocket)
17 tooth info -As well as ordering the JTF259.17 for the front.
Note that the front sprocket that came off the Hawk has a 17.5 mm diameter to the keys and a 20 mm diameter for the shaft. The JTF259.17 has a 18 mm diameter to the keys and a 20 mm diameter for the shaft. Both seem to work fine.
The shifter shaft spline is 11mm.

CARB REPLACEMENT AND SETTINGS
Mikuni 30mm carb. (VM30 / VM28?)
Jets - order for VM28/486
Jets 115 main jet 30 slow
SETTINGS
Rejet (I used a 125/30 at 3000 feet) and then set up the idle mixture (the screw that points straight up next to the float bowl) at 2.0 turns out. Adjust from there if your "barely off-idle" pops or lean-farts a little. I started at 1.5 turns out and had to open it a little.
Need to learn more about carburetor tuning? - http://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=15539

Initial Maintenence:
See post below in thread for Assembly of the bike out the crate.

· Rear disk brake - make sure there's plenty of movement freeplay in the linkage at the master cylinder to pedal otherwise it may not work properly once the fluid heats up.
· Tighten every nut and bolt as most seem to be delivered only finger tight, including tightening the steering stem nut and wheel spokes
· Replace spark plug - NGK Spark Plug, Wire and Boot replacement
· Check the Valves clearance
· I'd also ensure that the stator harness is properly routed around the countershaft sprocket before ever riding the bike.
· Change out the factory oil immediately
· the original Honda CG125 engine that these are copied from have a screen there, not a paper filter. There is a centrifugal filter under the clutch cover that should be cleaned eventually.
CG125, but also the XR/XL 185/200 uses the same mesh centrifugal filter

Valves Adjustments -
so far I've found between .02 to .08 as recommendations
Rotate the crankshaft another 360 degrees, and check again. You want the camshaft positioned at TDC on the compression stroke. You might have the camshaft positioned at TDC on the exhaust stroke.
es, that's correct. After you determine the exhaust stroke, the compression stroke will be the next full revolution of the crankshaft. When you reach the compression stroke, loosen both tappets, and set the correct valve lash.
Next, rotate the crankshaft one revolution, to the exhaust stroke. Only the exhaust valves should be tight.
Then rotate the crankshaft one more revolution, to the compression stroke. Both valves should be loose. Check the valve lash once again, and adjust if necessary. If the valve lash is correct, you are finished.

Hawk stator output possibly found - 160 watts

Brakes:
Rear disk brake - make sure there's plenty of movement freeplay in the linkage at the master cylinder to pedal otherwise it may not work properly once the fluid heats up.

Quirks about the bike:
The speedo cable seems to go in and out often so check that it's tight and it's speed may not be accurate ever
The bike needs to have the tank completely filled with gas before it sometimes starts to register the fuel levels.
The air filter seems to get covered in oil frequently, starving the bike for air - remedy = use a cone air filter or separate catch fort the oil.
The transmission is a little touchy in 1st/N/2nd, hard to find N at times and seems to drop into gear when I shut the engine off.
Carb works OK, but got to fart around with the choke and idle screw correctly to start/idle - settles down after warming up a bit.

Listed torque values are:
Front axle is 63 Nm
Top bolt of of front shock clamp 22 Nm (NXR 150 has side-bolt clamp, Hawk has front-bolt clamp)
Bottom two bolts of front shock clamp 32 Nm
Swing arm is 88 Nm
Mono shock is 44 Nm top and bottom
Rear axle is 93 Nm
Handlebar Clamps 26 Nm (dot on clamps pointing at front wheel)
Front disk brake caliper 30 Nm
Valve adjustment jam nut 14 Nm
Front and top engine mount bolts 35 Nm
Bottom and rear (larger) engine mount bolts 60 Nm
Multi-bolt engine mount plates 35 Nm

FAQ:
Hawk stator output possibly found - 160 watts

Questions???
What motor is this specifically?
Possibly the XR150? The engine is basically the same frame of architecture as the XR200 engine, and they only use a cleanable screen. The secret is to attach a filter to the vent hose, so as to not draw dirt into the engine.
Honda NX 150 (Engine [maybe] and Some electrical layout - Battery on right side)
Honda NXR 150 ESD (2009) (Frame, Plastics, Attachments, Front Disk, Rear Drum, non-applicable ECM controlled engine - Battery on left side as on Hawk)

SPEC’S
Manual transmission, front wheel size 80/100-21", rear wheel size 110/100-18", 250cc air cooled single cylinder four stroke engine, electric and kick start, seat height of 35.4”, front and rear hydraulic disc brakes.
The RPS Hawk Dirt Bike features an air cooled, four stroke single cylinder 250cc engine and a top speed of 59 MPH.

02-23-2016, 05:45 PM	#1
Fame28 Join Date: Feb 2016 Location: Kingston, NY Posts: 66	Hawk 250 technical info thread If anyone has information or finds the info incorrect, please comment and I will be happy to update it. I think it would be helpful to have a goto spot for all things Hawk related. I'm new to the site and just purchased a Hawk 250, but I've tried to compile all the info from every thread I could find on this site about the bikes. My brother and I also ordered from APCUSA.COM and very fast shipping from RPS, I just received them (the colors came as ordered green and black two pack) and are awaiting the MCO's. I highly doubt we will be able to register them here in NY as someone who just purchased three of them recently (not sure from what site) tried to register them and was only approved as ATB, so we may have to try the Vermont route, but I will update everyone once we know otherwise. __________________________________________________ ________________________________________ Haosen Hawk 250 Hawk 250 model # HS250Y-A: Manufacturer is officially Chongqing Haosen Motorcycle Co.,Ltd. Registering the Bike: INSURANCE - Inform them that it's a Chinese bike and give them the VIN. Also, here's a direct link to the manufacturer/model if you need to provide any specifics: http://www.haosenmotor.com/Products/.../HS250Y-A.aspx SPROCKETS/GEARING - stock bike with 15T/50T gearing 17 tooth countershaft sprocket (what make and model - xl185?) 45 tooth rear - JT rear sprocket, model JTR269 - Rear sprocket order for XL185 (will have to remove 4 links if only changing rear sprocket) 17 tooth info -As well as ordering the JTF259.17 for the front. Note that the front sprocket that came off the Hawk has a 17.5 mm diameter to the keys and a 20 mm diameter for the shaft. The JTF259.17 has a 18 mm diameter to the keys and a 20 mm diameter for the shaft. Both seem to work fine. The shifter shaft spline is 11mm. CARB REPLACEMENT AND SETTINGS Mikuni 30mm carb. (VM30 / VM28?) Jets - order for VM28/486 Jets 115 main jet 30 slow SETTINGS Rejet (I used a 125/30 at 3000 feet) and then set up the idle mixture (the screw that points straight up next to the float bowl) at 2.0 turns out. Adjust from there if your "barely off-idle" pops or lean-farts a little. I started at 1.5 turns out and had to open it a little. Need to learn more about carburetor tuning? - http://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=15539 Initial Maintenence: See post below in thread for Assembly of the bike out the crate. · Rear disk brake - make sure there's plenty of movement freeplay in the linkage at the master cylinder to pedal otherwise it may not work properly once the fluid heats up. · Tighten every nut and bolt as most seem to be delivered only finger tight, including tightening the steering stem nut and wheel spokes · Replace spark plug - NGK Spark Plug, Wire and Boot replacement · Check the Valves clearance · I'd also ensure that the stator harness is properly routed around the countershaft sprocket before ever riding the bike. · Change out the factory oil immediately · the original Honda CG125 engine that these are copied from have a screen there, not a paper filter. There is a centrifugal filter under the clutch cover that should be cleaned eventually. CG125, but also the XR/XL 185/200 uses the same mesh centrifugal filter Valves Adjustments - so far I've found between .02 to .08 as recommendations Rotate the crankshaft another 360 degrees, and check again. You want the camshaft positioned at TDC on the compression stroke. You might have the camshaft positioned at TDC on the exhaust stroke. es, that's correct. After you determine the exhaust stroke, the compression stroke will be the next full revolution of the crankshaft. When you reach the compression stroke, loosen both tappets, and set the correct valve lash. Next, rotate the crankshaft one revolution, to the exhaust stroke. Only the exhaust valves should be tight. Then rotate the crankshaft one more revolution, to the compression stroke. Both valves should be loose. Check the valve lash once again, and adjust if necessary. If the valve lash is correct, you are finished. Hawk stator output possibly found - 160 watts Brakes: Rear disk brake - make sure there's plenty of movement freeplay in the linkage at the master cylinder to pedal otherwise it may not work properly once the fluid heats up. Quirks about the bike: The speedo cable seems to go in and out often so check that it's tight and it's speed may not be accurate ever The bike needs to have the tank completely filled with gas before it sometimes starts to register the fuel levels. The air filter seems to get covered in oil frequently, starving the bike for air - remedy = use a cone air filter or separate catch fort the oil. The transmission is a little touchy in 1st/N/2nd, hard to find N at times and seems to drop into gear when I shut the engine off. Carb works OK, but got to fart around with the choke and idle screw correctly to start/idle - settles down after warming up a bit. Listed torque values are: Front axle is 63 Nm Top bolt of of front shock clamp 22 Nm (NXR 150 has side-bolt clamp, Hawk has front-bolt clamp) Bottom two bolts of front shock clamp 32 Nm Swing arm is 88 Nm Mono shock is 44 Nm top and bottom Rear axle is 93 Nm Handlebar Clamps 26 Nm (dot on clamps pointing at front wheel) Front disk brake caliper 30 Nm Valve adjustment jam nut 14 Nm Front and top engine mount bolts 35 Nm Bottom and rear (larger) engine mount bolts 60 Nm Multi-bolt engine mount plates 35 Nm FAQ: Hawk stator output possibly found - 160 watts Questions??? What motor is this specifically? Possibly the XR150? The engine is basically the same frame of architecture as the XR200 engine, and they only use a cleanable screen. The secret is to attach a filter to the vent hose, so as to not draw dirt into the engine. Honda NX 150 (Engine [maybe] and Some electrical layout - Battery on right side) Honda NXR 150 ESD (2009) (Frame, Plastics, Attachments, Front Disk, Rear Drum, non-applicable ECM controlled engine - Battery on left side as on Hawk) SPEC’S Manual transmission, front wheel size 80/100-21", rear wheel size 110/100-18", 250cc air cooled single cylinder four stroke engine, electric and kick start, seat height of 35.4”, front and rear hydraulic disc brakes. The RPS Hawk Dirt Bike features an air cooled, four stroke single cylinder 250cc engine and a top speed of 59 MPH. Last edited by Fame28; 03-01-2016 at 01:16 PM.
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