11-17-2022, 07:49 PM | #1 |
Join Date: Sep 2019
Posts: 69
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Bottom Oil Drain Plug Won't Tigthen
Was doing an oil change for winter because 20w50 makes it incredibly hard to start below freezing. So I wanted to drain with the bottom plug to get everything out.
Was finger tightening the plug back on and it just kept spinning and spinning... and spinning. The threads would occasionally catch but then it went back to spinning. Am I completely screwed here or is there a cheaper fix other than buying an entire engine? Was thinking I might be able to try retapping it, or JB weld the threads... Anything? |
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11-17-2022, 08:17 PM | #2 |
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Omaha, NE
Posts: 8,109
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Bottom threads are stripped. How isn't important, though it is possible the factory cross threaded it or overtorqued it during assembly.
The fix is straight forward with a few options. Drill and Tap for a larger drain bolt. Drill out and tap for a drain bolt repair kit insert (basically a flanged threadsert). Try a helicoil(can work, but also can be a pain to keep from leaking).
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11-17-2022, 09:00 PM | #3 |
Join Date: Sep 2019
Posts: 69
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As always thanks for your knowledge, Megadan. You've helped me a lot with your comments and videos.
But I think I may have overreacted in this case because I was in fear of the worst... I appear to have completely lost the washer which should be on my drain plug.. I've never seen one without, so I'm guessing that's why it doesn't tighten all the way. I'm hoping that it's going to be a simple $5 fix from O'Reilly tomorrow-- M12x1.5 I believe. |
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11-17-2022, 09:59 PM | #4 |
Join Date: Sep 2021
Location: De Soto, MO
Posts: 1,965
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I doubt it's the lack of washer, but since you need one anyway, let us know if that fixes it. Fingers crossed.
BTW I never change the washers. I use wheel bearing grease on the threads. Never had a leak in five decades.
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11-18-2022, 12:33 AM | #5 | |
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Omaha, NE
Posts: 8,109
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Quote:
I ordered a tusk crush washer kit off the internet and it has been invaluable for my bikes and even my car. I change them every other oil change or so.
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11-18-2022, 06:30 PM | #6 |
Join Date: Sep 2019
Posts: 69
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Update: I picked up an M12 x 1.5, slightly longer than the one I had. Was promising at first because I could get it snug, but any extra force would cause it to start spinning and feel loose again.
Also grabbed a so-called self-tapping M14 x 1.5 but the beginning of the taper wasn't small enough to start threading unfortunately. So I'm think this M13 x 1.5 will work for me: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00V0R7KQ4 Is there anything else I'll need to have on hand when I start this project? |
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11-18-2022, 06:34 PM | #7 |
Join Date: Feb 2021
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 2,682
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The bolts have stripped the threads. I don't think that putting in a 13M bolt will create threads. The drill and tap approach is going to be your end game. Helicoil or not, you are going to be cutting new threads.
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11-18-2022, 06:47 PM | #8 |
Join Date: Feb 2021
Posts: 1,000
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I bought a used Corvette several years ago, and it had an aluminum oil pan. The first time I changed the oil the plug would not tightening well. I think the guy I bought it from knew it. I bought rubber expandable oil plugs from Advance Auto, and changed them every other oil change, and they never leaked one bit. You can buy them for all different thread sizes. You may be able to use them. I personally wouldn't be afraid to try, as long as they don't protrude into the case too far, and some moving part hits it.
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11-18-2022, 07:09 PM | #11 |
Join Date: Sep 2019
Posts: 69
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Almost sounds too good to be true. So something like this would likely fit? Because of course nothing is ever metric.... https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...022%7CL4*11633 |
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11-18-2022, 07:38 PM | #12 | |
Join Date: Feb 2021
Posts: 1,000
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Quote:
https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-65200-...s%2C146&sr=8-2 |
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11-18-2022, 08:01 PM | #13 | |
Join Date: Sep 2019
Posts: 69
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Quote:
Thanks. I'll order this & that 13mm kit I linked previously. Hopefully the plug does the job but won't hurt to have the kit around if I need it down the line. |
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11-18-2022, 08:19 PM | #14 |
Join Date: Sep 2019
Posts: 69
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That's how I usually do it, Jeffrey.
I decided to use the lower plug this time around to try getting any extra out that may have tried staying in since I was changing to a much lower viscosity this winter. |
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11-18-2022, 08:20 PM | #15 |
Join Date: Feb 2021
Posts: 1,000
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You can buy one of the rubber plugs at Advance, or AutoZone, and you won't need the repair kit that you previously linked. In theory the rubber plugs don't even need to go in a threaded hole, but what's left of the threads will provide extra grip. I replaced mine at every other oil change because the threads kind of rough the rubber up a little. You may be able to get more than a couple changes on one, but I never tried. They are pretty cheap.
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