My New Ride: Massimo YG-200-9

[DannyPizdetz]

I posted a few weeks ago about buying a used bike that had some questionable problems and y'all counseled me to get a newer bike from 50 Highway Motorcycles which is an hour's drive from me.

My original post was here http://www.chinariders.net/modules.p...513&highlight=

The bike is mostly new but not in mint condition. It has a small scrape on some of the plastic and one one side of the motor so I got $50 off of the bike bringing it down to $1449 plus a $30 title fee. I don't think it's a great deal but I'm tired of riding my old van around with it's engine slowly dying. Price was also because battery needs charging. It had enough juice to turn the starter over but not to start the bike.

Once the bike warmed up it idled fairly well but they claim that the plug might be fouled since all they did is ride it up and down the gravel driveway to show people how it rides. They wouldn't let me test drive it but I made them brake hard to show that it wasn't squirrely while stopping like the other bike I looked at(in an old post).

I apologize that the pics are mostly close-ups. I have to take the bike tomorrow for inspection and didn't want to unload it from the van just to load it back up again 10 hours later. Once I get it tagged I'll put up more pics.

It has Hanma GY200 decals on it but on the Certificate of Origin it states that it is a 2008 Massimo YG-200-9 120cc Motor Scooter. VIN starts with LWG.





Engine is stamped HS163FML



The bike has a dummy left muffler where you can store stuff. I thought I was on a Saturday Night Live sketch when the mechanic said, "You can store your weed in there."



Bike does come with a tach but the gauges are rusty. The "dealer" was also a junk yard and I suspect this bike was stored outside for a while.



Basic controls:





Emmissions sticker claims that it is a Chongquing Huansong or Tomoto Industries 200cc Liquid cooled, carbureted enging from the 8TMTX.200DB1 family. It's certainly not liquid cooled although I don't have a pic to prove that right now. It advises JW30 oil, .40 spark gap and it should idle at 950 +- 50.





It has front and rear disc, but I don't have a pic of the rear disc. Front tire is a 2.75.21, rear is a 4.10.18. There appear to be mounting brackets for a front rack if I wanted to mount one.





Comes with this sticker to tell me to buy parts from motosportsparts.com



Miscellaneous other pictures:



















The guy also had a 250cc bike with a 170FMM stamped motor that had been used for dirt riding. Gauges, turn signals(front and back), starter and indicator controls plus the kick stand had been removed/broken off. Was selling it for $1100 and it sounded like a decent running bike but it was a bit tall for me and for all the abuse the bike seemed it had taken I didn't think the price was fair. Not to mention, googling that motor indicated that there was very little info about it on the web and the guy mentioned he wasn't sure he could get parts for it.

I asked what kind of prep they do for the bike and it doesn't sound like much. They didn't dump the oil, change spark plug or anything really. Attached handlebars and whallah.

I'm dying to go take it for a ride but there's just no sense in it since I'll have to load and unload it by myself. Not to mention I know that I need to change the oil in it and a variety of other things like loctite bolts, etc. When I was researching purchasing a china bike I found a good list of things you'd need to do to a new bike but I can't find the sticky now. I'll keep digging around for it, but if anyone has the link handy please feel free to share.

[MICRider]

Grats on the new bike, looks good! Here's a link to the DS bike prep thread from the sticky on the Dual Sport forum, lots of good info in that sticky but this is just the link to the prep thread since I think that might be the one your looking for. Enjoy the bike!
http://chinariders.net/modules.php?n...iewtopic&t=172

[Cron]

Grats man. Reminds me a lot of my YG-200-8 but of course yours has the offroad wheels. Should be a lot of fun, just try to be proactive to prevent all the little issues from annoying you too much.

[FastDoc]

I like it. Looks brand new. nice and shiny. 8)

Enjoy. :P

[Wild_Alaskan]

Lol love the emmisions sticker, pretty much 100% wrong on all data

[SpudRider]

Your bike looks great! Thanks for posting the photos.

I suggest you mount a mud flap to protect the shock absorber from mud. If mud coats the piston shaft, it will ruin the oil seal in the shock reservoir. :roll: When the oil seal is damaged, your shock will lose oil and become a pogo stick. :(

Please let us know how the licensing process works for you, and please post more photos after your bike escapes the bed of your truck.

Spud

[DannyPizdetz]

MICRider: Thanks for the link!

Spud: I'll add that to the list of things that I need to do! Thanks for noticing and explaining why.

I just got the insurance knocked out. The bike will not only consume a sixth the gas of my van, it's also costs just a sixth to insure!

In Kansas you have to get the Highway Patrol to inspect the VIN and verify that it matches the dealer paperwork. I'm hoping they won't be mad that the VIN does not appear to be stamped on the frame and is instead just a sticker. They shouldn't as I have a flatbed trailer with a VIN mounted like that from the year 2000, but you never know. After that, I go to the DMV. The dealer paperwork has an EPA stamp on it, so I'm hoping there won't be any headaches, but we'll just see how it goes.

Also have to pick up some 10w40 motorcycle oil at Wally World tomorrow. The one recommended item on the list for new bike proactive maintenance that I don't entirely know how to perform is to grease the swingarm bolt. I'll search for the nipple tomorrow, pardon the pun, and if I find it I have a grease gun I can use but I'm not sure that I'm not confusing that with the axle bolt based on some web searches I did on the procedure.

I have an inline fuel filter that I never installed on my garden tractor. Any reason why I shouldn't install that between the tank and the carb(probably before the shutoff valve)?

Now I'm going to need to get to bed so I can be first in line at the highway patrol in the morning.

[SpudRider]

Yes, you can install the fuel filter between the fuel tank and the carburetor's float bowl.

Personally, I prefer 15W/40 motor oil; it is excellent oil at an attractive price. I buy 15W/40 motor oil by the gallon, when it's on sale.

Spud

[DannyPizdetz]

Registration is complete. Details about the annoying experience can be found here: http://chinariders.net/modules.php?n...=154770#154770

That said, I've had worse experiences getting titles, so it was annoying but not horrible.

Thanks for the advice on the fuel filter and oil. 10W40 Castrol motorcycle oil was on "sale" for $3.99 a quart and they didn't have 15W40 in stock. I used to run 20W50 in my 87 Yamaha Radian. Now I want to change out that crankcase oil before it's run any more but I plan on changing it again very soon(maybe 250 miles?, I'd welcome advice). I'll get some lunch in me, suck down a cigarette and then the unloading will begin. Hope to get y'all another update with better pics soon.

[Weldangrind]

Our good friend Spud is referencing what is normally packaged as diesel oil. Rotella is one good 15W40 choice, among many.

Love the pushrod motors! Adjust the valves once in awhile, and it will give you many smiles.

Please stand by, so that Doc can scold you about smoking.

[FastDoc]

[FastDoc]

:wink:

[DannyPizdetz]

Thanks for the laugh. Needed it as things are not going swimmingly. Got unloaded via bales of hay and cinder blocks, AKA redneck rigging, and the oil change was fine.

Can't kickstart the mother to save my life. Just re-arranged the shed and locked the tool chest last week. Now can't find the battery charger or the keys to the tool chest(where I suspect the battery charger is at). And I found that one of the housings on the engine is cracked. Haven't researched yet what this is and how hard it will be to find a replacement.





Also noticed and you can see a bit of it in the second pic that the battery acid is dripping down onto the swingarm.

Taking a break after sweating for an hour in the shed trying to find the keys.

[MICRider]

Some of these bikes are a bear to kick and work much better with the electric start. I would remove the old battery (it's still there right?) and rinse the area where the acid leaked well to prevent corrosion. You could use a baking soda/water mix to neutralize the acid as well, then touch up the paint as required. The crack is just in the countershaft sprocket cover, not pretty but I don't think it will hurt anything. I've had a few bikes with broken sprocket covers, no biggy . It's mainly there to keep the sprocket from eating your pantleg.

You can take your old (and cleaned up) battery to your local Napa or WalMart and match it up for a new one. In my neck of the woods it usually cost's about $40 to $60 for a new battery but you probably have better prices in the States.

[FastDoc]

Agree with all MIC's points.

You may want to stop-drill the crack so it does not propigate though. I bet a new/used cover would be very cheap off eBay if needed.

Sometimes the battery is weak enough to make it hard to kick start. My theroy is that the CDI does not work properly at the lower voltage.

I know it's a bear to find stuff after a move, just survived that myself. Hope you find your stuff soon.

I have used a silver metallic pain made for wheels to repair frame paint with perfect results on my Kawasaki. I suspect the match on your bike would be fine also.