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Old 02-06-2019, 08:25 PM   #1
FrozenSalad   FrozenSalad is offline
 
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Remove RPS Hawk 250 Catalytic Converter

Hello all, I'm new to this forum but have had my Hawk for about a year now. I was just wondering if anyone that has one has removed the Cat from the exhaust and if so, did it yield any substantial power gains? I know it will need a carb adjustment after, but just wanted to know what others have experienced before I dive in.

Thanks for any feedback!


 
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Old 02-06-2019, 08:53 PM   #2
JerryHawk250   JerryHawk250 is offline
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Welcome aboard! There are a few of us that have gutted the cat. It will definitely help it breathe. Carb tuning is a must do after. The stock carb are tune real lean from the factory. Here's a link to my tread. http://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=17913
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Old 02-06-2019, 09:33 PM   #3
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Definitely a must do. I cut the cat out and tig welded a new pipe section before the first engine start. Spend the bucks and get a new carb. You'll eventually want to port the head it's not hard just be clean with your parts on reassembly. Also recored the stock muffler is much less restrictive and almost too quiet on the road.

I'd say after all that my hawk has about 50% more HP now, it's very close to a CRF 230. But it's still a 230! So keep your expectations grounded. Pure dirt bikes will still eat you alive. But you can run the roads!

There's some good threads on China riders about this.
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Old 02-07-2019, 02:40 AM   #4
Megadan   Megadan is offline
 
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Without delving into the world of head porting, which is definitely worth it if you have the ability, the single biggest restriction of these bikes from the factory is the exhaust. Two cheap and easy mods to do to the stock exhaust are to decat it and clean up the welds at the head pipe inlet where it meets the head. Combined with an intake upgrade (airbox mod or pod filter and a properly jetted carburetor these engines really wake up in the mid range and top end. As the others have mentioned, the factory carb tuning leaves a lot to be desired, and even with no other mods, having the carb jetted properly makes a big difference on its own.

If you want to take it as far as you can go, the factory ports are the next big restriction to the engine, and with a good port job and larger carburetor you will be able to properly utlize the full top end of the RPM range, where the factory head ports and carb really hold it back.
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Old 02-09-2019, 02:41 AM   #5
FrozenSalad   FrozenSalad is offline
 
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Thanks for the feedback guys! I had a feeling it was worth doing. I actually have already done the carb upgrade and a 17 tooth front sprocket which helped a lot. But needless to say, I wanted more. I'm able to get to around 60 as an absolute max, but didn't want to get a new rear sprocket with the current power


I'm glad to hear that it was a fair if not big increase in your experience. I hope to have the same luck.

As of now the cat is out and I'm getting ready to weld it in. I just ran out of time for the project today. I'll pick it up again tomorrow and let you guys know how it goes!


 
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Old 02-09-2019, 01:23 PM   #6
Weldangrind   Weldangrind is offline
 
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Welcome FS! Please show us pics of your cat-ectomy.
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Old 02-10-2019, 01:13 PM   #7
FrozenSalad   FrozenSalad is offline
 
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So I've welded the exhaust and fitted it back on and it fits great and there's a huge power increase (by Hawk standards anyway It was definitely worth the effort!

I'll post some pics for sure once I finish. While running it, I noticed there's a pinhole leak in the joint, so I'll need to weld that and then do the final grinding and prettying it up. This was my first time welding, so it was a learning experience for sure! Haha, very very fun though. I was hoping to have some more time welding, but it went pretty quick.

To any more advanced welders out there; do you know if the metal's temperature would affect the weld pool? I was getting a lot of heading up of the metal VS a flat and pretty weld like you see a pro do. As a test, I did hold the weld a little longer in some areas and it seemed to flatten out a bit VS beading (as it got hotter I assume), but then it made a little tower of material. Just curious if there is anyone who knows more about welding and might know roughly where I'm going wrong. The surface was very clean and I had flux core wire (.30)

Thanks all!


 
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Old 02-10-2019, 01:50 PM   #8
Weldangrind   Weldangrind is offline
 
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I'm not an advanced welder. I'm just a goofball with a decent MIG.


Without going too far down the rabbit hole, flux core is a challenge when compared to MIG with shielding gas. On top of that, a welder that does not have infinite voltage control is a crap shoot.


Does your welder have four (or five) voltage options, or does it have an infinite control, like a volume knob? Please tell us more about your machine.


To answer your specific question, heat can make a difference but it depends on the material and thickness you're welding. The right voltage and wire speed, combined with the right wire and shielding gas will not be affected by base metal temperature as much. For anything less than 1/4" thick, I'd be inclined to say the base metal temperature is not an issue at all.


As a point of trivia, materials like cast iron require heavy pre-heating before welding. It really depends on what you're welding and what your setup is.
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Old 02-10-2019, 05:52 PM   #9
OneLeggedRider   OneLeggedRider is offline
 
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Flux core isn't going to be a pretty weld. As far as the piling up it sounds like too much wire speed and not enough heat. It should sound like and egg sizzling in a pan and try to take the weld as far around the pipe as you can without stopping, especially with flux core.


 
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Old 02-10-2019, 09:57 PM   #10
Sir kayakalot   Sir kayakalot is offline
 
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Dan mentioned this, but it’s wirth saying again..... make sure you clean up the factory weld on the inside of the exhaust pipe at the mounting flange. It is ridiculous how much performance can be gained as some of the factory weld jobs are VERY restrictive right there. Cleaning up that weld and removing the cat and re-jetting the carb is by far one of the best mods you’ll do to your Hawk


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Old 02-15-2019, 12:17 AM   #11
elkhunter338   elkhunter338 is offline
 
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Hmm I am going to have to see if the CSC tt250 has a cat.
The exhaust has a end cap with 3 or 4 bolts, have not removed it yet.


 
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Old 02-15-2019, 12:31 AM   #12
Megadan   Megadan is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elkhunter338 View Post
Hmm I am going to have to see if the CSC tt250 has a cat.
The exhaust has a end cap with 3 or 4 bolts, have not removed it yet.
If I remember correctly, the TT250 does not have the catalyst in the header pipe like the Hawk does, and I believe it is located in the rear section at the very start of the muffler.

The end cap, and more specifically the spark arrestor right behind it is definitely a restriction if flow is what you are after. pcspecialist removed the original spark arrestor on his and replaced it with a straight through tip designed for the pro circuit exhausts as well as drilled out the last baffle in the muffler. See here. http://www.chinariders.net/showthrea...t=16636&page=4
The tip he used. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...iglink28144-20

If you don't like the tip sticking out so much you could always trim it back to sit flush with the muffler end cap. I did something similar with my ebay exhaust using the factory cap and the ebay mufflers outlet pipe. https://i.ibb.co/7VDc6yL/50243774-10...69349376-n.jpg
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