My initial thoughts

[Huck369]

My initial Thoughts on my new CSC Cyclone RX-3 after about 300 miles.


I really like the bike, no glaring problems.

Seat is mediocre ...... not the best stock bike seat I've had...not the worst one either, like most bikes, a better seat would be a nice upgrade, but it's "OK" for a stock seat.

Power is good for a 250 single, but is a peaky motor, and makes its power at 6000 rpm and up, is a bit weak in the torque department (just the opposite of my NC700X which is all torque, and little top end) both are fine, just require different riding techniques...no real complaints here

Transmission - Shifts smooth, is a bit hard to find neutral, but may get better as it breaks in. clutch releases further out from the grip than I prefer, I believe a a slightly shorter arm at the lower end of the clutch cable would change the geometry to make it disengage closer to the grip and still allow the proper amount of slack in the cable adjustment.


Guards and Luggage-- The guards seem to be very sturdy, and provide lots of protection, and give good places to mount extra lights, pegs ect.. the luggage is pretty good, I'm carrying my rain suit and some tools in the muffler side bag, and reserve the left side for my jacket...I installed a 40 liter trunk instead of the stock truck so I could store my helmet in it.

Lighting-- I haven't really had the need to ride in the dark yet, so I can't speak for the lighting yet


Handling __ is good on pavement, and on gravel roads, I haven't really had it on any really rough stuff yet, will post more when I do.

I know some of this sounds like complaints, but it's not, I really love the bike, just giving some constructive criticism ..looking forward to many miles on it

[Weldangrind]

Originally Posted by Huck369

I believe a a slightly shorter arm at the lower end of the clutch cable would change the geometry to make it disengage closer to the grip and still allow the proper amount of slack in the cable adjustment.

That's an interesting thought. I've definitely seen Honda clone motors with dissimilar length arms on them, but never wondered why. I can certainly see where a longer arm would provide for less effort, but also more lever travel at the hand.

[SpudRider]

It's the length of the push rod which determines the location of the clutch friction zone. Some bikes have an adjustment for this length, but our RX3 motorcycles do not.

[Huck369]

Originally Posted by SpudRider

It's the length of the push rod which determines the location of the clutch friction zone. Some bikes have an adjustment for this length, but our RX3 motorcycles do not.

The lever arm that activates the push rod is a good place to modify the "engagement" of the clutch plates, a shorter arm will make it slightly harder to pull the clutch, but would shorten the distance needed to engage/release the plates.

I'm a structural Draftsmen that works on many problems of this sort on conveyors, I only mentioned it in hopes that maybe CSC would check with Zong about making a shorter actuator arm for the clutch.

[Weldangrind]

Originally Posted by Huck369

The lever arm that activates the push rod is a good place to modify the "engagement" of the clutch plates, a shorter arm will make it slightly harder to pull the clutch, but would shorten the distance needed to engage/release the plates.

That's how I'm visualizing it as well. It would be an interesting experiment to fabricate a shorter arm and test it.

[SpudRider]

Originally Posted by Huck369

The lever arm that activates the push rod is a good place to modify the "engagement" of the clutch plates, a shorter arm will make it slightly harder to pull the clutch, but would shorten the distance needed to engage/release the plates.

I'm a structural Draftsmen that works on many problems of this sort on conveyors, I only mentioned it in hopes that maybe CSC would check with Zong about making a shorter actuator arm for the clutch.

I agree, modifying the length of the lever arm will change the effort required to actuate the clutch, and it will change the length of the friction zone. Changing the location where the friction zone engages during clutch lever travel is possible on many motorcycles, including the Yamaha TW200, and my Zongshen ZS200GY-2. It is described in the Yamaha maintenance manual on pages 3-16 and 4-58. You can download the TW200 Service Manual from our website at the following link.

http://api.viglink.com/api/click?for...0Manual%20(PDF)

Unfortunately, neither of my Honda motorcycles, nor the Zongshen RX3, have the mechanism on the end of the push rod assembly which allows for adjustment of the location where the friction zone engages during clutch lever travel. Therefore, unless someone modifies the length of the clutch push rod, the RX3 clutch will continue to engage at the end of clutch lever travel. My Honda XR650L clutch lever engages at the same location.

[Huck369]

I'm not trying to change the actual Clutch mechanism, but only change the range needed at the Clutch lever to activate it, which can be done by only changing the lever where it enters the case, a replacement lever there would be a 15 minute job, and would allow the clutch to engage closer to the grip, while still moving the actual clutch mechanism the same amount...would make the clutch pull a little stiffer, but currently it is so easy to pull, a little stiffer would be fine with me.

[SpudRider]

That is definitely an interesting project. Do you plan to have someone fabricate a new lever? If so, one could certainly change the cam placement on the lever as well.

[Huck369]

Originally Posted by SpudRider

That is definitely an interesting project. Do you plan to have someone fabricate a new lever? If so, one could certainly change the cam placement on the lever as well.

The lever is separate from the cam, it slides onto the splined shaft that turns the cam, I may try to get one made, but there is probably already one for another bike that would work, which would be cheaper than custom built ones....I need to pull some measurements off mine when I'm feeling froggy

[Mudflap]

On the Chinese engines I've seen the clutch lever at the engine is made from flat stock with a pin mounted swivel where the cable attaches. Drilling another hole for the pin about 10mm farther in and moving the cable attachment there would increase the movement at the engine. May have to slightly change the angle of the cable housing holder too.

[SpudRider]

Originally Posted by Huck369

The lever is separate from the cam, it slides onto the splined shaft that turns the cam, I may try to get one made, but there is probably already one for another bike that would work, which would be cheaper than custom built ones....I need to pull some measurements off mine when I'm feeling froggy

I see the clutch lever, part #20, is separate from the clutch cam, part #25. This should make your task easier.



The clutch lever and cam are combined in one unit for my Zongshen ZS200GY-2, and the Yamaha TW200.

[Huck369]

Thanks for the diagram, I had seen that the arm was a separate piece, when looking over the bike....shouldn't be to difficult to make a modified arm....

[SpudRider]

You're welcome. Please keep us updated, and please consider starting a new thread dedicated to this topic once you begin the project.

[Huck369]

took the RX-3 for a loop by Wolfe Creek Dam, around Lake Cumberland Saturday, and got 79 MPG out of it, was running 45-55 mph most of the day...191 miles on 2.39 gallons ...my best MPG so far, all other fill-ups have been in the Mid 60's

I wasn't liking the seat to much by the end of the day....might need to get one of those Sheepskin covers....

[oldqwerty]

Originally Posted by Huck369

took the RX-3 for a loop by Wolfe Creek Dam, around Lake Cumberland Saturday, and got 79 MPG out of it, was running 45-55 mph most of the day...191 miles on 2.39 gallons ...my best MPG so far, all other fill-ups have been in the Mid 60's

I wasn't liking the seat to much by the end of the day....might need to get one of those Sheepskin covers....

Most of the intended use with my Cyclone will be cruising around 55mpg on paved rural roads. 79mpg sounds really good. Is there ethanol in your fuel?