Qlink XF200 Shifts Horribly

[The Thinker]

Hey everyone,

I have had my Qlink XF200 for about 6 months now and have over 2100km on the bike. When I first purchased the bike it shifted like a dream. The slightest amount of pressure would make it shift and it was smooth as silk. Now over the past months I have noticed the bike has been getting gradually "clunkier" when shifting.I first noticed this around 600km at which point I changed the oil, adjusted the clutch cable slack, checked the valves, and adjusted the chain tension. After that the bike was shifting better, but it wasn't as good as at first. Since then it has gotten worse and after my ride today I can't take it anymore. Riding the bike has become more of a chore than a fun activity due to the complete inconsistency and force needed to change gears.

When shifting, the bike makes a very audible clunk sound and the whole bike shakes. The amount of force needed to shift the gear is ridiculously high compared to when I bought the bike. I have read many different things about linkages, clutch plates, etc but wanted to come here and ask you guys for advice before tearing my bike apart searching for the answer.

[Adjuster]

Using the correct oil? You cant use automotive oil with a friction modifier and most automotive oils do contain a friction modifier.


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[The Thinker]

I'm running Delo 400LE 15w-40 diesel oil. I've always used it in my bikes and have never had a problem.

[culcune]

That sounds like the correct oil, but your bike uses a Suzuki-related engine, not a Hondoid. What oil does the manufacturer recommend? I always know I am approaching my 600+/- miles oil change when my bike does not go into neutral smoothly, and shifting it is, as you described, approaching a chore!

[SpudRider]

Originally Posted by The Thinker

I'm running Delo 400LE 15w-40 diesel oil. I've always used it in my bikes and have never had a problem.

I agree. The 15W/40 motor oil is excellent, and I'm sure it is not causing any shifting problems.

[The Thinker]

I'm not sure what the engine style has to do with the oil type, I always thought I needed to use a good quality oil of the correct weight without any friction modifiers so the wet clutch will work correctly. If anything using an oil with friction modifiers would just cause my clutch to slip and burn up however I seem to be having the opposite problem. The manufacturer recommends anything between 10w-40 to 20w-50 depending on the climate I presume.

[Weldangrind]

I also agree that Delo is a good choice. Are you using conventional Delo? If so, perhaps you'd care to try a litre of synthetic, to see if there is any improvement.

[The Thinker]

This is the exact stuff I'm using http://www.amazon.com/Chevron-38623-.../dp/B003ZWD73M

Just to make 100% sure everything is set properly, how much wiggle room should there be between the end of the cable and the slack adjuster on the clutch lever. I have read it should be set at 1mm but that was on a GSXR forum. Right now mine is probably 1-2mm of wiggle room.

Is there a possibility of clutch plate warping with such low mileage?

[humanbeing]

http://www.mychinamoto.com/forums/showthread.php?430

[SpudRider]

As always, thanks for posting the great link, Humanbeing.

[Weldangrind]

Very good link.

Thinker, to respond to your question, I look for about 5mm of gap between the perch and the hand lever. More or less will be required, depending on the bike.

If something is actually worn, my guess would be the Clutch Pushrod Cam, per the link from HB. That's really easy to inspect by removing the cover.

[The Thinker]

I agree, thank you for that great link. My bike doesn't creep in neutral though, however I will still remove the cover and check all components. If this is the issue, where can I get the replacement parts?

[humanbeing]

How deep is your pocket? Genuine parts ALWAYS marked high in states.
Compatible clutch plates / bearing (10x24x2) ... can sourced at reasonable price from fleabay.
taobao + agent is the LAST savior for genuine parts:
http://shop34613605.taobao.com http://shop36143366.taobao.com http://shop68659299.taobao.com

[The Thinker]

Being a senior in high school, my pockets are as shallow as the kiddie pool in my neighbors backyard. Because of this I have always done things myself versus taking it to professionals which has proven to have its benefits and drawbacks.

I was just working on my bike, and discovered the back wheel is absurdly loose. I check the bolts and they are all tight, but then I notice one of the spokes is broken and all the rest are loose. I guess its time to buy new spokes, but where do I get them from. I already know I am not going to be able to afford to get my wheel laced and trued by a shop, so I guess its time to start reading up on the process and looking for a truing stand to purchase.

Would something like thisget the job done? http://www.amazon.com/Tusk-Motorcycl.../dp/B003QT26D6

Spokes on Ebay for 17 inch wheels, not sure if these would work: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-FRONT-...7e0a06&vxp=mtr

[SpudRider]

Originally Posted by The Thinker

Being a senior in high school, my pockets are as shallow as the kiddie pool in my neighbors backyard. Because of this I have always done things myself versus taking it to professionals which has proven to have its benefits and drawbacks.

I was just working on my bike, and discovered the back wheel is absurdly loose. I check the bolts and they are all tight, but then I notice one of the spokes is broken and all the rest are loose. I guess its time to buy new spokes, but where do I get them from. I already know I am not going to be able to afford to get my wheel laced and trued by a shop, so I guess its time to start reading up on the process and looking for a truing stand to purchase.

Would something like thisget the job done? http://www.amazon.com/Tusk-Motorcycl.../dp/B003QT26D6

Spokes on Ebay for 17 inch wheels, not sure if these would work: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-FRONT-...7e0a06&vxp=mtr

Spokes are different for almost every wheel. Therefore I doubt those eBay spokes will fit your QLink wheel. I also doubt you need a complete set of new spokes. Order several spokes which are known to fit your wheel so you will have a spare or two. Then replace the broken spoke and true the wheel. This process is much easier than lacing the entire wheel, and it will help you to learn how to true the wheel. You can replace all the spokes later, if necessary.

I own a Park Tool Truing Stand, and I highly recommend it. This truing stand is far superior to the Tusk Truing Stand, or anything you can purchase at Harbor Freight.

https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p...truing%20stand