What oil?

[Citroenjunkie]

I finally put on my big boy pants and changed the oil on my bike. The old oil was very dirty but both strainers were clear and there was only the faintest trace of metal on the magnetic plug, so thats all good.

I decided to go with what I know and replaced the oil with Motul 15W 40 full synthetic.

As you all probably know the whole job took about 15 minutes and was ridiculously easy.

The difference in the way the engine is running is unexpected. It has gone very quiet, it is idling more slowly, but smoothly and the clutch has transformed into a thing of joy. Smooth, progressive engagement and easy to find neutral. I can now get the clutch to slip while doing slow manoeuvring and pull-aways are so much better.

Has anyone else noticed a change with different oils?

[2LZ]

Originally Posted by Citroenjunkie

I finally put on my big boy pants and changed the oil on my bike. The old oil was very dirty but both strainers were clear and there was only the faintest trace of metal on the magnetic plug, so thats all good.

I decided to go with what I know and replaced the oil with Motul 15W 40 full synthetic.

As you all probably know the whole job took about 15 minutes and was ridiculously easy.

The difference in the way the engine is running is unexpected. It has gone very quiet, it is idling more slowly, but smoothly and the clutch has transformed into a thing of joy. Smooth, progressive engagement and easy to find neutral. I can now get the clutch to slip while doing slow manoeuvring and pull-aways are so much better.

Has anyone else noticed a change with different oils?

I'm jealous just because of the easy neutrals. All three of my Zongs hate neutral after they get hot. I may have to try the Motul.

[Working_ZS]

Originally Posted by 2LZ

All three of my Zongs hate neutral after they get hot. I may have to try the Motul.

Adjust your clutches instead. If you can't find neutral, especially when stopped, then there is too much drag on the clutch plates.

My RX3 and TT250 both were difficult to get into neutral at a complete stop. They each needed to be adjusted, and it needed to be down at the lever on the engine, not at the handle bar lever, which is more for lever free play. Both now easily slip into neutral when the bikes are stopped.

The initial set up from CSC is good enough to get them out the door, but they definitely need to be readjusted after the initial break-in.

[Sclark1013]

Anybody have simple instructions on how to adjust the clutch at the engine/trans lever- TT250?

[NzBrakelathes]

Originally Posted by Sclark1013

Anybody have simple instructions on how to adjust the clutch at the engine/trans lever- TT250?

adjust the 2 13mm nuts as needed leaving a slight free play

[sqwert]

Originally Posted by Sclark1013

Anybody have simple instructions on how to adjust the clutch at the engine/trans lever- TT250?

First, run the handlebar adjustment all the way in.

Second, adjust the nuts at the clutch end so that the clutch is fully engaged, with just a whisker of free play.

Third, crank the adjuster up on the lever mount until the lever feels as you like it.

Fourth, have a nice ride.

[Hawk 229cc]

seems right to me on the clutch adjustment i never had a problem finding neutral at all an still could stand a bit more adjusting will do ? to citroanjunkie is what oil was in the bike ,first change should be before ,you ever run the bike ,i also hear that full 100% synthetic should be used till after 500 miles or full break in ,too allow the internals to seat properley,i used 10w40 mortcycle oil sf,though most guys use rottela 15w40 with more zinc i may try at some point myself i would use either one ,plus i am sure many guys use just regular 10w40 too an 20w50 in heat

my problem is finding 5th gear ,i guess couse i am so used to a bike with 50+ hp ,an the low gearing 5th feels like 3rd ,but will work to get all that the hawk can give ,soon this heat up in the NE is terrible

[sqwert]

Any oil with a picture of a motorcycle or 4-wheeler will work. Some work better than others.

There are really only two kinds of oil. First is dino oil, a petroleum product. This includes things like Rotella, which is really a very high quality dino product, not at all a true synthetic. The 2nd type of oil is the true synthetics like Lucas, Royal Purple, and the old Mobil 1.

CSC recommends 5w-40 or 10w-40. Anything w-50 is overkill.

Start off with fresh dino oil for motorcycles in 5w-40 or 10w40. Dino oil allows a much faster break-in. Very cheap at most big box stores like Walmart. I do an oil change as soon as the bike is assembled, before even starting it up the first time. Patiently allow the filters to drain and reuse them.

Next oil change is a couple hundred miles later, same dino oil. Clean the filters with DeepCreep, let the DeepCreep evaporate. Change and clean filters again at 500 miles.

Finally, at 1000 miles, use the same change and clean procedure and use a top line dino oil like Rotella or a genuine synthetic oil like Lucas, Royal Purple, or the old type Mobil 1. 10w-40 will do.

DO NOT just use any oil. Most oils in 1st world countries I've been to are very specialized and becoming more so. Many newer cars require oils with friction modifiers so the emissions laws can be met. Dump one in your motorcycle and you will be buying a new clutch. Many new cars require little or no additives to prevent impact wear--rollers and bearings instead of flat metal contact surfaces with a thin layer of oil to avoid contact. Dump one in your motorcycle and order a new transmission.

There are about 12 different Rotellas. Which is right for a motorcycle? (None. All Rotellas are designed for diesels in commercial trucks, farm and construction equipment, and/or stationary engines.) There are close to 30 different Mobil 1s. Which is right for a motorcycle? (The 2 with pictures of motorcycles on the containers.)

I'd rather pay $10 more for the right oil than cheap out on my motorcycle, which is so much better than a woman. Simple facts are I know dozens of people who have used the wrong oil and wasted engines in all sorts of machines, from lawn mowers to cars, trucks, busses, semis, boats, airplanes, even motorcycles. Many didn't even change brand. Use the right oil or risk the consequences.

[Citroenjunkie]

Originally Posted by sqwert

I'd rather pay $10 more for the right oil than cheap out on my motorcycle, which is so much better than a woman. Simple facts are I know dozens of people who have used the wrong oil and wasted engines in all sorts of machines, from lawn mowers to cars, trucks, busses, semis, boats, airplanes, even motorcycles. Many didn't even change brand. Use the right oil or risk the consequences.

My dad always said oil is cheaper than engines.

I'm surprised no-one mentions Motul. I just did a search and discovered they're French so perhaps not common in the USA. If you are interested Motul makes a huge range of products for all sorts of engines
https://www.motul.com/nz/en

My brother races a variety of classic two strokes and has used the product for years without ever having an engine break.

On the oil change frequesncy my bike had its first at 500km and second at 1000km I have no idea what the oil was, other than very black and runny.

[Hawk 229cc]

Originally Posted by Citroenjunkie

My dad always said oil is cheaper than engines.

I'm surprised no-one mentions Motul. I just did a search and discovered they're French so perhaps not common in the USA. If you are interested Motul makes a huge range of products for all sorts of engines
https://www.motul.com/nz/en

My brother races a variety of classic two strokes and has used the product for years without ever having an engine break.

On the oil change frequesncy my bike had its first at 500km and second at 1000km I have no idea what the oil was, other than very black and runny.

it was likely the china junk in there if you did not change it,before first start up an this was your first change ,if there was no harm done bike runs better should be fine ,an oil for wet clutches work best ,like said i used to sf 10 w 40 motorcycle oil,or motor cycle oil ,many guys have said they got good use of 15 w 40 no matter wich brand ,like said even regular car oil some use ,from 10 w 40 15 w 40 an alot of guys down south use 20 w 50 ,

motul i am sure is just a rebranded oil from your country i never heard of it hear in the states dont meen its not hear though under the name rotella, reality is there as many opinions of oil as there are people who think wich is the right one to use ,i would just say no syn in the hawk till after break in ,just makes sence to be ,with oil guys are going to use what they want an have sucesess with many different oils.


so we are all just giving an opinion ,like the guy above kinda contradicts his post ,more then half the guys hear use 15w40 Diesel oil an works just fine ,you should be fine we can only say what we use

[Juanro]

Originally Posted by Hawk 229cc

motul i am sure is just a rebranded oil

Motul is a french brand, and here in Argentina is regarded (by some people, at least) as one of the best motorcycle oils.

[pete]

Motul is a brand in it's own right...
It is the standard factoy oil used by Yamaha
All so used by ALL Yamaha factoy race teams..

All containers marked "Yamalube" have Motul inside them...
5100 15/40 semi syn
7100 15/40 full syn






.

[Hawk 229cc]

way to touchy wont get it hear i dont think so motrocycle oil did you not see that ,personal attack you call it how about me i never mentioned your name,sorry i think it has to do with opinions an your mad couse you feel your right i was just stateing facts still amfor real i have had many engines an not one has failed me unless i blew it up raceing or a lifter failed from a redline over rev at cruise night. wich still did not blow the engine replace a few rods top end work fixed ,lots about oil guys i cant even read all that anymore my post was half about its just being a matter of choise 10 w 40 motorcycle oil wet cluch oil 15w40 all a choise ,i guess all that matters is know one is not talking about a blown engine from useing the wrong oil yet or in this post,i have always used what the maufacture recomends or close ,this is getting wierd

so quickly back to the engine i have had all my mower engines last 15 years + an most still run push mowers being the only ones i never changed the oil in,al others need oil changes ,so again its choice just keep oil in the engine an use something close to what man fact recomends an you will be fine,my 406 uses high amount of zinc additive ,flat tappet cam vr1 20 w 50 weight,went back to it after trying 10w40 $4.49 a quart an up to 10.00 a qt, sale walmart

sqwert do you just have to be right i was not saying what works for you can not work ,i was saying what works for me an many other guys on this forum from posts i did read ,relax i figure if your leaving over this ,you got to get some cooth to build up i dont care what csc says ,your post is like freaking me out with you compareing to an grow up,there also long drawn out ,i could say the personal attack is to me ,but not leaveing myself yet ,not over opinions

[Hawk 229cc]

to the others thanks for the replys did not think this was debate over wich oil is right for our china bikes,got to have thick skin some days i guess ,couse you just never know how some will react to a opinion post sorry about the tiff there citroajunkie the op

[Hawk 229cc]

oh hey sqwert we used the same oil in our bikes from 10 w 40 motorcycle oil ,mine was valvoline ,with a picture of motorcycle on it so whats all the fuss about ,the hawk engine design from the 1970s

it only make sence alot of guys will want to use the 15w40 that some has more zinc then others for the old shcool design,an from what i have seen more then half use it thats all i was saying did not meen to offend you