spacer tube rear axle gio mini beast

[crhunter]

What's the deal with these things? The longer spacer tube keeps rattling loose after a few rides. I've added a few washers already but still getting the same rattling problem. Has anyone found a modification that works?

[TurboT]

Originally Posted by crhunter

What's the deal with these things? The longer spacer tube keeps rattling loose after a few rides. I've added a few washers already but still getting the same rattling problem. Has anyone found a modification that works?

Not me yet! Have the same issue. Just kind of got used to it.

I'm anal about checking the wheel nut tension as well. It never seems to be loose, yet the tube rattles.. very very odd.

[Weldangrind]

If they're anything like the tubes on our bigger quads, they're only for decoration. The hub that the wheel mounts to is splined on our quads, meaning that's what determines how far the wheel can slide on the axle.

I dumped 'em.

[crhunter]

If they're anything like the tubes on our bigger quads, they're only for decoration. The hub that the wheel mounts to is splined on our quads, meaning that's what determines how far the wheel can slide on the axle.

I'm assuming they don't do anything for the rear sprocket either? Obviously it's splined as well but I'm guessing as long as the chain tension is there it won't slide off.

[Weldangrind]

Again, I'm referring to bigger quads, like our beast and Monster, both from Gio.

The sprocket is bolted to a splined hub that mates with a stepped section of the axle. The hub cannot move once the axle is installed and adjusted. Make sense? Chain tension has no effect.

[crhunter]

Ahhh I get it, thanks. Now that I've looked at it again it doesn't really serve a purpose other than cosmetic. Looking at photos of the rear axle the gio mini beast is same set up, just a smaller version.

[TurboT]

I think the rear tube is there to stop the wheel in the proper spot for tightening and also provide it something to press into.

There is no other 'flange' or surface area to hold the wheel from going further towards the inside of the quad.

[crhunter]

I'm anal about checking the wheel nut tension as well. It never seems to be loose, yet the tube rattles.. very very odd.

Exactly, the nut is tight but the spacer still rattles. I think that tells me that the tube was cut too short. I'm going to measure the diameter better yet take the tube into the shop and cut a slightly smaller length tube. Hey I found that bulb last night. It does look different, it has a small "collar" around it to keep it in the holder I guess. I'll check Crappy Tire and P.A. when I get a chance and see if they carry something similar ohhhh and it's 10w not 9w like I thought earlier.

[Weldangrind]

Originally Posted by TurboT

I think the rear tube is there to stop the wheel in the proper spot for tightening and also provide it something to press into.

There is no other 'flange' or surface area to hold the wheel from going further towards the inside of the quad.

How can the tube hold the wheel flange if the tube is loose? I'm not challenging you, I'm just trying to understand the problem.

Again, referencing larger quads, the wheel mounting flange is retained by a large nut and cotter pin. If I remove the nut, I can slide the flange off of the axle, revealing a step on the axle. That step prevents the wheel mounting flange from sliding beyond a certain point. In our case, the tension of the nut takes up slop in the splines, removing any wobble in the wheel.

In your case, maybe the tube is all that stops the flange, but that sounds pretty cheezy.

[TurboT]

Originally Posted by Weldangrind

How can the tube hold the wheel flange if the tube is loose? I'm not challenging you, I'm just trying to understand the problem.

Again, referencing larger quads, the wheel mounting flange is retained by a large nut and cotter pin. If I remove the nut, I can slide the flange off of the axle, revealing a step on the axle. That step prevents the wheel mounting flange from sliding beyond a certain point. In our case, the tension of the nut takes up slop in the splines, removing any wobble in the wheel.

In your case, maybe the tube is all that stops the flange, but that sounds pretty cheezy.

Here is the picture from the 50cc unit post. You will see the tube rests right up against the flange by the brake rotor. You will also notice the axel is 'smaller' where the spline ends that the rotor rests on. The other side looks similar.


If I removed the tube, the wheel hub would slide either right off, or right up to the end of the spline. If there was a lip, I'm sure the pressure from any tightening of the wheel nut would just damage the end of the spline or pop it right off.

I am confused as to the rattle as well. I always check the nut tension, and it never seems to move. The only thing I can think of is perhaps the force of the wheel spinning, and the quad turning, creates a 'pull' effect away from the tube, which puts the pressure onto the wheel nut side, effectively loosening the tube enough to make it rattle.

We've had the discussion in other threads about tourque specs. If there was a way to put perhaps, 45-50lbs torque or stretch on the wheel nut, this may perhaps alleviate the problem.. However, I don't think the pin hole would line up, and I think the threads would let loose on the spindle.

If you have pictures of your setup, I'd be interested to see the differences and how you've mounted your wheels.

[TurboT]

I should also add on my most recent mini beast assembly, the brake rotor was moved towards the wheel more than it should have been. I pushed it back by hand on the spline, so I think the tube is actually acting to keep the brake rotor in place as well.

[Weldangrind]

I've never seen anything quite like that. I can see where there is no step after the rotor spline, so it makes sense that it would walk without the tube spacer. If you have another photo with the tube removed, we'd be able to see where the wheel mounting flange splines end, but I presume that there's no step there either. The only solution I can come up with is a longer tube. You can also place washers behind the castle nut to help line the slots up with the spindle hole. You would need the brakes to be locked on and have weight on the seat in order to properly tighten the nut.

[TurboT]

Originally Posted by Weldangrind

I've never seen anything quite like that. I can see where there is no step after the rotor spline, so it makes sense that it would walk without the tube spacer. If you have another photo with the tube removed, we'd be able to see where the wheel mounting flange splines end, but I presume that there's no step there either. The only solution I can come up with is a longer tube. You can also place washers behind the castle nut to help line the slots up with the spindle hole. You would need the brakes to be locked on and have weight on the seat in order to properly tighten the nut.

I know I had to use additional washers on my other mini beast since when tight the pin was a good distance away from the end of the nut.

In theory, this wheel nut should take some amount of torque, as it's a 1/2 or 12mm inch thread, with a 22mm nut head... so 55-60lb ft of torque shouldn't be an issue.. HOWEVER.. I'd be scared to do that in fear of ripping the threads off the axl, because then you have a whole heck of a lot more trouble than a rattle.

[Weldangrind]

That amount of torque is required on a Beast, but then again, you're tightening up against a step, not a tube.

[TurboT]

Is the wheel nut and axel thread the same size? 22mm nut?