Second oil change. Dang!

[Hap]

Decided to change my oil for the second time. First time was replacing the shipping oil. When I changed the oil the first time. I had just finished assembly and hadn’t attempted to crank it with that nasty shipping oil. So the shipping oil was very cold. Anyway I dumped it out and put some rotella in. I just turned 20 miles on it and decided to change the oil again. Dang! Talking about some nasty junk! Never seen used rotella look like that. There must have been a good bit of the shipping oil still in there when I changed it from new. It was cloudy with one clump of something. And there was a little bit of sludgy stuff in the oil screen. I’m glad I decided to change it when I did. I guess I should have cranked it with the shipping oil and at least let it get warm. Maybe then it would have drained out better. I don’t know. Gonna run it 20 or 30 more miles and change it again. Hopefully next time it will look a bit more normal. Lol.

[Fast_Freddy]

I'm mostly convinced by word of mouth that these bikes come with "shipping oil" in the crankcase but before changing it, I feel compelled to ask, how we know that it's "shipping oil" and not break-in oil? TIA

[Megadan]

Originally Posted by Fast_Freddy

I'm mostly convinced by word of mouth that these bikes come with "shipping oil" in the crankcase but before changing it, I feel compelled to ask, how we know that it's "shipping oil" and not break-in oil? TIA

Some of the higher end stuff like Lifan or Zongshen (CSC) comes with relativelt good oil in it. The whole shipping oil thing came from the very budget bikes like the original Hawks because the oil was rather questionable.

Both my 2017 and then 2018 had clear oil in them. Not kidding at all, the oil came out clear and fairly thin. I wouldn't trust my bike with it, not matter how cheap or throw away it is. Rotella T4 is actually a great oil for break in as it has a high zinc content still, unlike many modern motorcycle oils, and is wet clutch rated. It is also fairly affordable, so the cost isn't prohibitive.

I would have.suggested maybe a bit more than 20 miles on that first change myself. 200 is sufficient, but to each their own.

[Fast_Freddy]

Originally Posted by Megadan

Some of the higher end stuff like Lifan or Zongshen (CSC) comes with relativelt good oil in it. The whole shipping oil thing came from the very budget bikes like the original Hawks because the oil was rather questionable.

Both my 2017 and then 2018 had clear oil in them. Not kidding at all, the oil came out clear and fairly thin. I wouldn't trust my bike with it, not matter how cheap or throw away it is. Rotella T4 is actually a great oil for break in as it has a high zinc content still, unlike many modern motorcycle oils, and is wet clutch rated. It is also fairly affordable, so the cost isn't prohibitive.

I would have.suggested maybe a bit more than 20 miles on that first change myself. 200 is sufficient, but to each their own.

Yeah, I'd also have a hard time trusting clear motor oil. If I even start it with the factory oil it won't stay in there long. I like Rotella but for the winter I'm inclined to go with 10w40 instead. Thanks.

[Megadan]

Originally Posted by Fast_Freddy

Yeah, I'd also have a hard time trusting clear motor oil. If I even start it with the factory oil it won't stay in there long. I like Rotella but for the winter I'm inclined to go with 10w40 instead. Thanks.

Depends on how cold it is there. T4 comes in 10w30 and 10w40 as well but they are much less common. The 15w40 is everywhere.

[Fast_Freddy]

Originally Posted by Megadan

Depends on how cold it is there. T4 comes in 10w30 and 10w40 as well but they are much less common. The 15w40 is everywhere.

I didn't know it came in 10w40 or 10w30, I've only ever seen it in 15w40. I used to run it in my Vulcan.

[TominMO]

Either way, you would want to change the oil immediately, perhaps after a brief warmup. That's when most of the particles are gonna break loose and move around in your engine. Then change it again soon after, say ten miles. Then 100 miles, then normal intervals. My opinion FWIW.

[Fast_Freddy]

Originally Posted by TominMO

Either way, you would want to change the oil immediately, perhaps after a brief warmup. That's when most of the particles are gonna break loose and move around in your engine. Then change it again soon after, say ten miles. Then 100 miles, then normal intervals. My opinion FWIW.

I'm going to have new oil on hand either way. I'm undecided about whether or not to even start it with the factory oil. Maybe I'll just warm the engine before draining the factory fill. Thanks.

[tknj99]

I had the same issue on my TempX. I changed the factory oil at the 25 mile mark and had metal flakes stuck on the oil screen. Since then had 1 more change with T4 and it came out clean. I posted pics in my review thread.

[Hap]

Originally Posted by tknj99

I had the same issue on my TempX. I changed the factory oil at the 25 mile mark and had metal flakes stuck on the oil screen. Since then had 1 more change with T4 and it came out clean. I posted pics in my review thread.

Yes I saw that post whenever you first posted. I’ve yet to see any metal flakes. I was surprised. I’ll probably change it out again after a 100 or so miles. I’ve got to get this carburetor off and tune it. Before I go much farther.

[Boatguy]

If I remember correctly, my Lifan had the clear oil (mineral oil?) in it.

I changed it to Rotella before ever starting the bike. And not much came out.

[Jwrider]

Megadan is right. I use t4 in my x-pect with no problems. Getting broke in now w/600mi.

[Texas Pete]

Break in oil is low viscosity and is used to increase the wear on the piston rings against the cylinder wall to shorten the break-in period. That said I also dumped my engine oil and put in rotella T4 after a few starts on the factory oil. It will just take a lot more miles and a lot longer to break in and get the increase in fuel mileage.

[Megadan]

Originally Posted by Texas Pete

Break in oil is low viscosity and is used to increase the wear on the piston rings against the cylinder wall to shorten the break-in period. That said I also dumped my engine oil and put in rotella T4 after a few starts on the factory oil. It will just take a lot more miles and a lot longer to break in and get the increase in fuel mileage.

Break in oil is generally standard oil viscosity (not thinner) but with a specific additive package.

Generally it contains a high level of suspension detergents to keep metal particulates from settling and it also contains a higher level of ZDDP (Zinc) which acts as a boundry metal that lubricates steel on steel contact to prevent excessive wear of high pressure components like the valvetrain during the initial break in period. It also lacks the typical shear resistance to help promote low pressure contact friction bedding - aka piston rings.

Most typical break in oils also contain Molybdenum as the friction modifier package to protect the rings while bedding. The issue is that Moly and wet clutch packs don't mix well which is why motorcycle specific break in oil doesn't contain it and is generally just a high zinc package. You will also notice a very small amount of wet clutch rated break in oils.

[Fast_Freddy]

Originally Posted by Texas Pete

Break in oil is low viscosity and is used to increase the wear on the piston rings against the cylinder wall to shorten the break-in period. That said I also dumped my engine oil and put in rotella T4 after a few starts on the factory oil. It will just take a lot more miles and a lot longer to break in and get the increase in fuel mileage.

I thought that break-in oil had very high zinc content and was designed to protect the camshaft during break-in? Although this probably only applies to flat tappet engines. I've only rebuilt 2 stroke engines so I've never actually used break-in oil. I used a lot of Bel ray synthetic 2 stroke oil at 60:1. Love that smell!