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08-11-2019, 09:51 PM | #1 |
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Bay City, MI
Posts: 398
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Just got a new China-ATV, unfamiliar with this one... help?
Hey all, great forum here- I've researched and read many many threads and posts over time, finally decided to register and participate.
I have a TaoTao New Cheetah 110 that my 7yr old rides (and me too, more often than I probably should!), and that quad makes a lot of sense and is very simple. I now have a new one that is a 150cc GY6 clone. It's branded as a "Dragon", by "Dragon Motor Sports". As we all know, brand name is largely irrelevant. But, being new to the GY6 stuff, I can't quite figure this one out. Previous owners had ran it a few years back and it was fine (they were neighbors). They moved and sold it with the house (left it in the garage). It allegedly idled OK and ran at full throttle fine last week, but is said to run poorly at mid throttle.- I can't get it to start except with starting fluid. Charging battery now... It's got the KF Standard of Japan type carb, electronic fuel enrichment it seems. No vacuum line to the fuel petcock, just screws into tank and has one line going to carb inlet. No clue which position is ON and which is OFF. any ideas? Also, I don't know how many gears or what the shift pattern is on this thing. There is also a big lever on the right side of the engine, that I presume looks to be or might be a reverse engagement lever, but it seems to want to "pop" when I pull it up and push the quad either forward or backward. Can anyone help me with the fuel petcock, the shift pattern (feels like 3-down, and then it always springs up), and with the right-side lever on the round bit that the chain sprocket is behind? I know that it runs, shifts (if it has gears, cvt maybe?), and otherwise "works" as I had seen it being operated a few years back before it sat for about 1-2 years. I feel I need to pull the carb and disassemble, drain the float bowl and maybe adjust the jets, check the diaphragm.... looks like the front plastic maybe have to come off to make this easier. Thanks for any advice! And here are pictures to make all of this helpful... Last edited by Deckard_Cain; 08-11-2019 at 10:38 PM. |
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08-11-2019, 09:53 PM | #2 |
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Bay City, MI
Posts: 398
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Edit to add that I installed a brand new NGK CR7HSA plug, verified solid strong spark, and the engine has good compression (tested with finger over hole method, gauge is not with me this weekend). Electric start only, so no kick start on this one.... and oil looks and smells good, no sparklies to indicate internal engine wear/damage.
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08-12-2019, 03:16 AM | #3 |
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 375
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I believe the lever on the left side is a kick start as backup. The lever on the right side should just be forward, neutral, and reverse. Not sure about the fuel switch, but im sure if you unplugged the line going to the carb you will find which position is on and off.
Please post a picture of the carb. I would suggest pulling it out, and cleaning everything. I have the a similar engine in my Bull, and the carb is very sensitive to cleanliness. If you have a rubber diaphragm on the top, just use soap and water to clean it, not carb cleaner. |
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08-12-2019, 08:12 AM | #4 |
Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Houma, La.
Posts: 11,707
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The GY6 has a CVC clutch so no gears to shift. Douglass has everything else covered.
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2024 Linhai 300 ATV 4x4 2023 Lifan Lycan 250 Chopper 2023 Venom Evader 2022 Lifan KPX250 2020 Kawasaki Vulcan S (Sold) 2004 Honda ST 1300 2016 Black Hawk 250 (sold) Keihin PE30 carb,125 main,38 slow.Pod filter,ported & decked head 10:1 CR,Direct Ignition Coil,15/40Sprockets,NGK DPR8EIX-9,De-Cat,Dual Oil Cooler,Digital Cluster 2016 Cazador180 XL 2014 Coolster150 JerryHawk250.com My YouTube Channel |
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08-12-2019, 10:21 AM | #5 | ||
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Bay City, MI
Posts: 398
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Quote:
I'll pull the carb today and get it apart a bit, cleaned out as much as can be done. It starts and runs for a second on starting fluid, so I'm sure the carb just needs some help- if not complete replacement. It looks a lot like the PD24J carb that VMC sells. So roughly $20 for new is nice. Quote:
thanks for the help and replies? |
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08-12-2019, 10:42 AM | #6 | |
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Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Houma, La.
Posts: 11,707
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Quote:
The carb looks to be the same as on my Coolster which is the PD24J. Try giving it a good cleaning. Make sure the slide moves easily. As Douglas stated they don't like being dirty. Make sure you have a good air filter. if all else fails get another carb.
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2024 Linhai 300 ATV 4x4 2023 Lifan Lycan 250 Chopper 2023 Venom Evader 2022 Lifan KPX250 2020 Kawasaki Vulcan S (Sold) 2004 Honda ST 1300 2016 Black Hawk 250 (sold) Keihin PE30 carb,125 main,38 slow.Pod filter,ported & decked head 10:1 CR,Direct Ignition Coil,15/40Sprockets,NGK DPR8EIX-9,De-Cat,Dual Oil Cooler,Digital Cluster 2016 Cazador180 XL 2014 Coolster150 JerryHawk250.com My YouTube Channel |
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08-12-2019, 06:56 PM | #7 |
Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: Lancaster,Ky
Posts: 470
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I just bought a Tao Bull 200,still processing the order,I wish it come with the kick starter for back up just in case.
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08-12-2019, 07:23 PM | #8 |
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 375
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When you pull the carb, could you take a few pictures? Do you have an electric choke on the carb? Once the bike starts with starting fluid, will it stay running?
I'm suspicious that if you have a rubber diaphragm, that it is not opening, or working correctly. This is assuming that the carb, and the jets have been cleaned well. |
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08-12-2019, 09:45 PM | #9 | |||
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Bay City, MI
Posts: 398
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I pulled the whole carb apart and cleaned everything, ran a twist tie wire through the jets, not too bad.. the rubber diaphragm I half-expected to be torn, but it wasn't, but could stand a cleaning. There was old gas residue on all the jets and their orifices, as well as the needle. It tends to want a high idle adjustment, otherwise it comes close to and sometimes does stall when cold (perhaps the enrichment circuit is not working well?) and it still surges a bit at about 20-50% throttle. It's tons better than it was and is plenty usable and ride-able the rest of the season. Getting used to the cvt is way different than I am used to, and the main drive chain on this thing is either way stretched, or the axle needs to be adjusted back a smidge to tighten it. How loose are they supposed to be to account for cvt slack anyhow? Engaging reverse works, but it jerks when moving... I wonder how the cvt belt is, and if it is slipping causes some of those last issues. It is a blast in the fun-zone though! For a 150, it sure does have a lot of power... suprisingly more than the Tao Tao 110. Not huge, but enough to notice. It's a great trail runner. Appreciate all the help I got here in this thread! It really helped me get this girl going. I can post additional pics if requested as well. |
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08-13-2019, 12:44 AM | #10 |
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Michigan
Posts: 1,040
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Just curious, what's going on with the red and black wires in the second picture? The red one is bare and touching the rear brake pedal. Can't quite see where the black one is going.
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08-13-2019, 09:30 AM | #11 | |
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Bay City, MI
Posts: 398
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Quote:
The insulation near the terminal on the positive wire is indeed a little chewed up. I plan to replace/upgrade those as well as any other wiring that looks insufficient. So far nothing else looked damaged. The machine is in surprisingly solid shape. |
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