2020 Hawk DLX check engine light on

[DoomHead]

Hey y'all. I have a 2020 Hawk DLX that I've put around 1400 miles on. It's been a great bike so far. I went to go for a ride the other day and the check engine light would not go off and the bike was running rough. I can turn the switch on and off twice, then leave it on the third turn and the check engine light will throw a code of 0112. (The light flashes 10 times, then once, then once, then twice, pauses and repeats the code) I've messed with it for a few days and can't find the issue. It's driving me nuts, and I can't find any info specific to the hawk concerning this code. I could use some help here. I've changed the air filter, put a new NGK plug, greased all the connecters with electrical grease, cleaned the battery posts and put non corrosion grease on them and no results. Any suggestions?

[Boatguy]

That code looks like it is for the intake air temperature sensor for all motorcycles. I would almost assume that that is a fairly standard code assignment. Certainly no harm in checking that first.

[DoomHead]

Originally Posted by Boatguy

That code looks like it is for the intake air temperature sensor for all motorcycles. I would almost assume that that is a fairly standard code assignment. Certainly no harm in checking that first.

Thanks. I'll check that out today.

[Thumper]

Originally Posted by Boatguy

That code looks like it is for the intake air temperature sensor for all motorcycles. I would almost assume that that is a fairly standard code assignment. Certainly no harm in checking that first.

Keep in mind that although this is technically not an EFI failure (the EFI controller), the temperature sensor is a peripheral input that EFI needs to operate. So if it fails, particularly if it is a transient/periodic failure, it is a diagnostic problem. There are more than one check engine light or transient EFI failure on this site! They are electronic devices, and they do have issues.

Maybe it takes some time to learn how to tune a carburetor, but they typically do not catastrophically fail. You can get home to figure it out.

And the fuel pump is another Achilles heal for an EFI system. A carburetor works on vacuum and gravity (fuel feed), neither of with can fail.

Also, Once you become familiar with your carb settings (which jets, needle height, etc), diagnostics become routine (float bowl fill circuit, general cleaning, rejet for modification).

So EFI may be convenient when it works, but I don't think it is easier to diagnose when it fails, and it does.

[DoomHead]

Originally Posted by Thumper

Keep in mind that although this is technically not an EFI failure (the EFI controller), the temperature sensor is a peripheral input that EFI needs to operate. So if it fails, particularly if it is a transient/periodic failure, it is a diagnostic problem. There are more than one check engine light or transient EFI failure on this site! They are electronic devices, and they do have issues.

Maybe it takes some time to learn how to tune a carburetor, but they typically do not catastrophically fail. You can get home to figure it out.

And the fuel pump is another Achilles heal for an EFI system. A carburetor works on vacuum and gravity (fuel feed), neither of with can fail.

Also, Once you become familiar with your carb settings (which jets, needle height, etc), diagnostics become routine (float bowl fill circuit, general cleaning, rejet for modification).

So EFI may be convenient when it works, but I don't think it is easier to diagnose when it fails, and it does.

On the EFI models you can turn the key on then off twice, then on the third turn leave the key on and the check engine light will flash a code. It wasn't an issue of diagnostics really, more of an issue of finding a new AITS.

[Thumper]

Originally Posted by DoomHead

On the EFI models you can turn the key on then off twice, then on the third turn leave the key on and the check engine light will flash a code. It wasn't an issue of diagnostics really, more of an issue of finding a new AITS.

OK. So EFI systems fail too... Just a different set of possible fails. Carb, EFI, whatever. Fuel systems just aren't perfect.

[Ol,fart]

I think it is generic OBD 2 code P0112.
Intake Air Temp circuit low. The computer is seeing a short or open in the IAT circuit.
Check wires and connectors at the IAT and at the computer. If the circuit is good replace the IAT and clear codes. If that doesn't work the only thing left is computer.
I do not know how to clear a hawk. It may be as simple as disconnecting the battery for a while. If not it may require a scanner.

[J4Fun]

Are you sure your battery is sufficient for the job? The battery that came with my Hawk DLX wouldn’t have been. Another thing make sure your fuel tank breather isn’t partially plugged. Just my thoughts 😎

[JerryHawk250]

Check the IAT sensor with an ohms meter for resistance. The readings should be close to the following for reference. You can heat the sensor with a hair dryer to test the ranges.

Temperature/ Resistance
100 C (212 F) 2.07 K-ohms

90 C (194 F) 2.8 K-ohms

80 C (176 F) 3.8 K-ohms

70 C (158 F) 5.4 K-ohms

60 C (140 F) 7.7 K-ohms

50 C (122 F) 11 K-ohms

40 C (104 F) 16 K-ohms

30 C (86 F) 24 K-ohms

20 C (68 F) 37 K-ohms

[DoomHead]

Originally Posted by J4Fun

Are you sure your battery is sufficient for the job? The battery that came with my Hawk DLX wouldn’t have been. Another thing make sure your fuel tank breather isn’t partially plugged. Just my thoughts ������

It's the stock battery. It has worked so far. I might go ahead and order a better one anyway.

[Thumper]

Originally Posted by DoomHead

It's the stock battery. It has worked so far. I might go ahead and order a better one anyway.

Before you order a battery... See what the voltage is at rest (with a voltmeter/multimeter). You might disconnect it from the bike for the test, then connect it and repeat (shouldn't change if nothing is drawing current)... It should be charged when you do this test. At least 12.5 is OK but kind of weak, maybe 13 or more should be observed across the poles. If it drives the starter and starts the bike, it isn't likely to be causing the problem.

[DoomHead]

Originally Posted by Thumper

Before you order a battery... See what the voltage is at rest (with a voltmeter/multimeter). You might disconnect it from the bike for the testr, then connect it and repeat (shouldn't change if nothing is drawing current)... It should be charged when you do this test. At least 12.5 is OK but kind of weak, maybe 13 or more should be observed across the poles. If it drives the starter and starts the bike, it isn't likely to be causing the problem.

Yeah, it cranks and drives the bike no problem.

[Thumper]

Originally Posted by DoomHead

Yeah, it cranks and drives the bike no problem.

Ahh.... Cool. Save your money for the part that (might) need replacing!
Based on the other posts and advice, you are on the right track. I didn't know you could pull codes from these bikes!

[DoomHead]

Thanks for the suggestions everybody. I'll see 2hat I can figure out.

[Ol,fart]

I ordered the carbureted model specifically because it dosen't have a computer and the carb is 28 dollars. Lol