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08-15-2018, 08:06 PM | #1 |
Join Date: Jul 2018
Posts: 212
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Carb tweak questions - Hawk 250
Since adjusting the valves to .005 exhaust and .004 intake, my top end speed seems limited compared to before (17T/45T sprocket combo). The first time I did an adjustment, the valves were tight as can be from the factory, but I was reaching 60-65mph wide open on a #120 jet (was definitely running a little rich). I dropped down to a #115 after the valve adjustment, top speed was barely 50mph. I have a 2nd Mikuni carb (brand new), so I installed a #105 jet into the new carb, turned the fuel mix screw 1.5 turns out, clip on the middle of the needle, and swapped the carbs (identical VM26 Mikuni carbs...will be nice to have 2 to swap them instead of having to pull them apart to change main jets).
On the #105 jet, I get up closer to 55mph, but RPM's seem to top out at 6000-6500...RPM's top out at about 6000 or so on the #115 main jet. I haven't pulled the spark plug lately but overall the engine still seems to be running a little rich. The engine idles perfectly at about 1200 RPM's...doesn't die, sputter, or hesitate anywhere in the throttle range. Acceleration is smooth but not what I would call powerful. Valves are definitely "tappy". Engine only has about 200 miles so perhaps it just needs more break-in time. Should I re-adjust the valves so that the gaps are tighter, or drop down again in main jet size to a #100 main jet? Seems like it would run lean going down to a #100. I've modified the air box and have a performance exhaust installed. Any suggestions? Thanks.
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2018 RPS Hawk 250cc Mods so far: 1. Mikuni VM26 Carburetor w/#115 main jet 2. 17T/45T JT sprockets 3. JT 428 X-ring chain 4. Air box mod 5. Hawk Digital Cluster 6. Aftermarket IMS shift lever 7. Performance Aftermarket Exhaust 8. 295mm Nitrogen Gas Monoshock, 20W oil front forks |
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08-15-2018, 08:20 PM | #3 |
Join Date: Jul 2018
Posts: 212
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I had started the engine to warm it up somewhat but did not get on the Hawk and ride it around, so the engine was just slightly warm when adjusting. I've read differing schools of thought about adjusting valves on warm/cold engines. Some seem to recommend adjusting on a cool engine while others recommend riding it around and then adjusting. I kinda went in between but it was leaning more toward cold.
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2018 RPS Hawk 250cc Mods so far: 1. Mikuni VM26 Carburetor w/#115 main jet 2. 17T/45T JT sprockets 3. JT 428 X-ring chain 4. Air box mod 5. Hawk Digital Cluster 6. Aftermarket IMS shift lever 7. Performance Aftermarket Exhaust 8. 295mm Nitrogen Gas Monoshock, 20W oil front forks |
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08-15-2018, 09:19 PM | #4 |
Join Date: Jul 2018
Posts: 212
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**Update: re-adjusted valves. There was WAY too much lash, gap was nearly double what I had adjusted the valves to on an almost-cold engine (previously). In the future, I won't adjust the valves unless the engine is warm. The engine runs much quieter now but I can still hear some valve tapping which is a good thing. Previously the valve noise was pretty loud. Hawk gets up above 60mph again and would probably go faster if I revert back to the #115 main jet. Runs and accelerates with noticeably more power.
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2018 RPS Hawk 250cc Mods so far: 1. Mikuni VM26 Carburetor w/#115 main jet 2. 17T/45T JT sprockets 3. JT 428 X-ring chain 4. Air box mod 5. Hawk Digital Cluster 6. Aftermarket IMS shift lever 7. Performance Aftermarket Exhaust 8. 295mm Nitrogen Gas Monoshock, 20W oil front forks Last edited by ChrisWNY; 08-16-2018 at 08:07 AM. |
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