Wanted: mechanic

Voice · 08-27-2018, 10:24 PM

I bought a used 2014 Bashan sports bike a couple weeks ago, not realizing it was going to turn into a bit of a ‘project’ bike. The problems seem to be related to the charging system.

The battery is good, and holds a charge.
I just replaced the rectifier/regulator, because it had a 4-wire (single phase) unit installed, but the wiring harness has a 5-pin connector.
At this point I need to figure out if I got the wrong part, or if I have a wiring problem, or a stator that’s gone bad.

And that’s just what I know so far.

I don’t suppose there’s anyone in the Cincinnati/Dayton, OH area that might be willing to give a new rider/ novice mechanic a hand?

Gh426 · 08-27-2018, 11:14 PM

Pictures of your bike, both parts & that plug end may be all thats needed.

Search how to post pictures.

Gh

pete · 08-28-2018, 07:19 AM

start it...put a mulimeter on the battrey termals...
at around 3000rpm it should be reading high 13 to low 14 volts DC
across the battrey termals...

this is the standard reading for most 12 volt systems...

...

ben2go · 08-28-2018, 12:32 PM

Usually, the OE R/R connector can be repinned onto the new R/R.

Voice · 08-28-2018, 10:06 PM

Before start, I see ~12.4V at the battery.
At idle, I see ~12.4V at the battery.
At 5,000 RPM, I see ~12.4V at the battery.

The only thing drawing power would be the dash & lights, which are mostly LED, and the headlight is burned out. (Figuring out how to pull the assembly so I can replace it is the next project.)

To check what AC voltage (if any) I'm getting from the stator, or to get photos, I'll need to pull the fairings (again), and I won't have time to do that until sometime next week.

pete · 08-28-2018, 10:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Voice

Before start, I see ~12.4V at the battery.
At idle, I see ~12.4V at the battery.
At 5,000 RPM, I see ~12.4V at the battery.

The only thing drawing power would be the dash & lights, which are mostly LED, and the headlight is burned out. (Figuring out how to pull the assembly so I can replace it is the next project.)

To check what AC voltage (if any) I'm getting from the stator, or to get photos, I'll need to pull the fairings (again), and I won't have time to do that until sometime next week.

sounds like you could have...
broken wire/bad connection... dead reg/rec or stator not genarating...

..

Voice · 09-03-2018, 01:36 PM

I started from the assumption of a bed rect/reg, and discovered that the one that was installed only had 4 pins, even though the wiring harness where it was connected has 5.

I replaced that, and don't see a difference. (I have a spare replacement rect/reg, just in case the pins are different and I've managed to fry the first replacement, but the wire colors appear to match up.)

I hope to have some time to check the stator output at some point this week, but I was hoping to find some local help who might be able to walk me through the process, or at least help me figure out which wires I should expect to find what voltage, etc. on.

ben2go · 09-05-2018, 10:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Voice

I started from the assumption of a bed rect/reg, and discovered that the one that was installed only had 4 pins, even though the wiring harness where it was connected has 5.

I replaced that, and don't see a difference. (I have a spare replacement rect/reg, just in case the pins are different and I've managed to fry the first replacement, but the wire colors appear to match up.)

I hope to have some time to check the stator output at some point this week, but I was hoping to find some local help who might be able to walk me through the process, or at least help me figure out which wires I should expect to find what voltage, etc. on.

Where are you located? Someone knowledgeable may be able to lend a hand.

Voice · 09-06-2018, 01:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ben2go

Where are you located? Someone knowledgeable may be able to lend a hand.

Cincinnati/Dayton, OH area, like I said in the initial post.

Azhule · 09-06-2018, 07:14 PM

I have family in that area, but I won't be visiting them until next year sometime... and my family that lives in your area is useless with these kinds of things or I would send them your way to help out...

If by some horrible chance you still need help when I'm in town (next year

), I will be happy to help

Voice · 05-27-2019, 08:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Azhule

I have family in that area, but I won't be visiting them until next year sometime... and my family that lives in your area is useless with these kinds of things or I would send them your way to help out...

If by some horrible chance you still need help when I'm in town (next year

), I will be happy to help

So, I picked it up from the mechanic on Saturday. It still doesn't charge. When are you visiting family?

Seriously, though. I'm $1,500 into this thing, and ready to chuck it off a bridge, because I didn't know I was buying someone's project bike, and I don't have the skill set to deal with it.

Anybody got any recommendations for what I might expect to be able to get for it?

Voice · 10-25-2018, 11:45 PM

Welp...
Nearly two months later, and I'm still right where I was when I started.

I found a place about 45 minutes away that was willing to work on it. They said they fixed it, and everything seemed to be running ok, but it still isn't charging the battery ($150 for repairs and $50 for trailer rental all down the tubes). And then they told me it was 'impossible' to test the stator because they couldn't put the multimeter on it while they were riding it. (Even I know you don't have to ride it to test the voltage coming out of the stator, any more than you have to to test the voltage going to the battery from the regulator.)

Replaced the battery, thinking maybe I'd killed it in the mean time. (Another $60 down)

I've figured out how to get into the engine to replace the stator, but haven't found a suitable replacement yet to find out if that will even do anything. I'm *so* freaking frustrated at this point.

Someone who knows what they're doing could probably get this bike fully up and running for about $50-100, but I don't think I'm that person at this point.

On the bright side, I'm in a position to get a solid deal on another bike, previously owned by my wife's grandmother's boyfriend, and I'll be able to take that to a dealer if I need help with it. So, I think I'm going to try selling it as a 'project bike', or (worst case) seeing what a scrap dealer will give for it.

Huck369 · 10-26-2018, 08:33 AM

I hate you're having trouble with it, but post up some pics of it and what you want for it, and maybe you can sell it...I'm sure you can get more than scrap price for it, if it's all there.

ben2go · 10-26-2018, 03:25 PM

You can test a stator without riding the bike. Ground the meter to the frame on bare metal. Use the positive lead to check the voltage at idle and rev'd to as close to 5000 rpms as possible. Check all the leads from the stator which could be 2 or 3. At 5000 rpms the voltage should be between 60 and 90 volts AC not DC on each wire. There are how to videos on youtube. I would suspect the rectifier regulator before the stator.

Voice · 02-01-2019, 02:35 AM

Found a local motorcycle mechanic willing to dig into it in late November. The rectifier/stator/drum, etc. are all cheap enough from VMC to order them and try replacing them.

So far, he's as puzzled as I am.

08-27-2018, 10:24 PM	#1
Voice Join Date: Aug 2018 Posts: 29	Wanted: mechanic I bought a used 2014 Bashan sports bike a couple weeks ago, not realizing it was going to turn into a bit of a ‘project’ bike. The problems seem to be related to the charging system. The battery is good, and holds a charge. I just replaced the rectifier/regulator, because it had a 4-wire (single phase) unit installed, but the wiring harness has a 5-pin connector. At this point I need to figure out if I got the wrong part, or if I have a wiring problem, or a stator that’s gone bad. And that’s just what I know so far. I don’t suppose there’s anyone in the Cincinnati/Dayton, OH area that might be willing to give a new rider/ novice mechanic a hand?
	0

08-28-2018, 07:19 AM	#3
pete Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: ChCh , NZ Posts: 2,266	start it...put a mulimeter on the battrey termals... at around 3000rpm it should be reading high 13 to low 14 volts DC across the battrey termals... this is the standard reading for most 12 volt systems... ... __________________ 09 XT660R ... 06 TTR250 ... 80 Montesa H6 125 Enduro... 77 Montesa Cota 348 MRR "Malcom Rathnell Replica"... Current resto projects.. 81 Honda CT110... 80 Kawasaki KL250A1... 11 Husaburg TE125 enduro... "sold" along with another 31... Lifan 125 Pitbike.. "stolen" ... KIWI BIKER FORUM...... http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/content.php All the best offroad rides in NZ... http://www.remotemoto.com/ E-mail... xtpete1@gmail.com
	1

09-06-2018, 07:14 PM	#10
Azhule Join Date: Dec 2015 Location: CO Posts: 1,525	I have family in that area, but I won't be visiting them until next year sometime... and my family that lives in your area is useless with these kinds of things or I would send them your way to help out... If by some horrible chance you still need help when I'm in town (next year ), I will be happy to help __________________ "Think as you like... but this self proclaimed Professor is always right" - Buckshot "You never know what someone is hiding beneath their smile..." - NinjaTom - R.I.P.
	0

10-26-2018, 08:33 AM	#13
Huck369 Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Somerset, KY Posts: 688	I hate you're having trouble with it, but post up some pics of it and what you want for it, and maybe you can sell it...I'm sure you can get more than scrap price for it, if it's all there. __________________ Huck 2013 Honda NC700X 2013 Moto Guzzi V7 Stone 2016 AJP PR4 2022 Templar X 250 2021 Sondors Metacycle AMA Life Member
	0

08-27-2018, 11:14 PM	#2
Gh426 Join Date: Feb 2018 Location: LA Posts: 74	Pictures of your bike, both parts & that plug end may be all thats needed. Search how to post pictures. Gh
	0

08-28-2018, 12:32 PM	#4
ben2go Join Date: Jun 2011 Posts: 1,335	Usually, the OE R/R connector can be repinned onto the new R/R.
	0

08-28-2018, 10:06 PM	#5
Voice Join Date: Aug 2018 Posts: 29	Before start, I see ~12.4V at the battery. At idle, I see ~12.4V at the battery. At 5,000 RPM, I see ~12.4V at the battery. The only thing drawing power would be the dash & lights, which are mostly LED, and the headlight is burned out. (Figuring out how to pull the assembly so I can replace it is the next project.) To check what AC voltage (if any) I'm getting from the stator, or to get photos, I'll need to pull the fairings (again), and I won't have time to do that until sometime next week.
	0

09-03-2018, 01:36 PM	#7
Voice Join Date: Aug 2018 Posts: 29	I started from the assumption of a bed rect/reg, and discovered that the one that was installed only had 4 pins, even though the wiring harness where it was connected has 5. I replaced that, and don't see a difference. (I have a spare replacement rect/reg, just in case the pins are different and I've managed to fry the first replacement, but the wire colors appear to match up.) I hope to have some time to check the stator output at some point this week, but I was hoping to find some local help who might be able to walk me through the process, or at least help me figure out which wires I should expect to find what voltage, etc. on.
	0

10-25-2018, 11:45 PM	#12
Voice Join Date: Aug 2018 Posts: 29	Welp... Nearly two months later, and I'm still right where I was when I started. I found a place about 45 minutes away that was willing to work on it. They said they fixed it, and everything seemed to be running ok, but it still isn't charging the battery ($150 for repairs and $50 for trailer rental all down the tubes). And then they told me it was 'impossible' to test the stator because they couldn't put the multimeter on it while they were riding it. (Even I know you don't have to ride it to test the voltage coming out of the stator, any more than you have to to test the voltage going to the battery from the regulator.) Replaced the battery, thinking maybe I'd killed it in the mean time. (Another $60 down) I've figured out how to get into the engine to replace the stator, but haven't found a suitable replacement yet to find out if that will even do anything. I'm so freaking frustrated at this point. Someone who knows what they're doing could probably get this bike fully up and running for about $50-100, but I don't think I'm that person at this point. On the bright side, I'm in a position to get a solid deal on another bike, previously owned by my wife's grandmother's boyfriend, and I'll be able to take that to a dealer if I need help with it. So, I think I'm going to try selling it as a 'project bike', or (worst case) seeing what a scrap dealer will give for it.
	0

10-26-2018, 03:25 PM	#14
ben2go Join Date: Jun 2011 Posts: 1,335	You can test a stator without riding the bike. Ground the meter to the frame on bare metal. Use the positive lead to check the voltage at idle and rev'd to as close to 5000 rpms as possible. Check all the leads from the stator which could be 2 or 3. At 5000 rpms the voltage should be between 60 and 90 volts AC not DC on each wire. There are how to videos on youtube. I would suspect the rectifier regulator before the stator.
	0

02-01-2019, 02:35 AM	#15
Voice Join Date: Aug 2018 Posts: 29	Found a local motorcycle mechanic willing to dig into it in late November. The rectifier/stator/drum, etc. are all cheap enough from VMC to order them and try replacing them. So far, he's as puzzled as I am.
	2