|
10-07-2021, 11:59 PM | #1 |
Join Date: Oct 2018
Posts: 25
|
No 12v on bike
Hi all,
I'm not sure what happened but I recently took my bike for a spin with a strangely dead battery. I soon realized that I had no signal lights, and then pulled over to find that none of the lights were working. Investigating further, there was no 12VDC to run anything on the bike. The bike is running, and I've been able to note that while running there is less than 1vdc going to the spark coil, and the harness coming off the engine to the shut off switch is up around 80VDC. The 12V regulator has nothing close to 1VDC on it, nevermind 12VDC, and the CDI unit has that full 80VDC in but again less than 1VDC out. Does this indicate a faulty CDI unit or a faulty wiring harness that isn't supplying voltage from the alternator to the 12V regulator? Perhaps I'm missing something and perhaps the stator itself went bad. I will start it up tomorrow and get the voltage between the yellow / white wire and ground. That said, seeing 80V into the CDI isn't to be expected is it? I'm amazed it runs. I ordered the complete wiring kit (harness, stator, CDI, handlebar controls...) and will probably proceed first with installing the stator, then perhaps the harness. Also reference this page when doing more electrical testing: http://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=13934 |
|
10-08-2021, 10:31 AM | #2 |
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Reno, NV
Posts: 89
|
The 1vdc reading on the spark coil is likely incorrect, the voltage is cycling at a high rate of speed so you're meter will not get a steady reading.
If you're seeing 80VDC your regulator is shot.. I'm surprised those voltages didn't fry the CDI... You might want to verify your meter is in proper working condition. |
|
10-08-2021, 07:10 PM | #4 |
Join Date: Oct 2018
Posts: 25
|
This is measured using a autoranging Fluke meter. I checked the AC component but there was nothing worthy of note either.
|
|
10-09-2021, 03:06 PM | #5 |
Join Date: May 2019
Location: Port Huron, Michigan
Posts: 637
|
the cdi and coil are likely all ac but it depends on the bike. The only dc would be the output side of the regulator rectifier to the battery and all the accessories. The yellow wires from the stator should be reading ac voltage. if they don't take an ohm reading from winding to winding and from each winding to the case to see if any are broken or shorted.
__________________
2020 Triumph Tiger 900 rally. 2018 Bashan Storm 250. pz30b, digital cluster + gear indicator, unifilter and car customs full exhaust. 2019 Taotao 110b boulder atv. The "arm breaker" lol 2007 Honda VTX 1300R. 1974 Suzuki tm125, work in progress 2001 Suzuki Drz 400s. |
|
10-13-2021, 06:21 PM | #6 | |
Join Date: Oct 2018
Posts: 25
|
Quote:
I got the bike running again, and between ground and the three poles of the stator I measured between 50-80VAC; but less than 1VAC coming out the other end of the wiring harness to the CDI and the voltage regulator, so I'm pretty sure it's the wiring harness. I bought a generic complete wiring kit: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PMGVJNG I observed that one of the wires leading out of the main harness to the regulator has been completely cut; so that's a good clue. I may swap out the throttle/signal/starter unit while I'm at it, as I'd bypassed the relay and went with a push-button down on the left of the engine a while ago when the starter switch plastic broke off in the woods (d'oh!). I was tempted to try the adjustable CDI units to advance/retard the spark timing but there are mixed reviews on those. I think my motor has a rev limter at 9800 rpm or so and wonder if this would increase top-end power or an unnecessary mod: https://www.amazon.com/Ignition-Alum.../dp/B07P9QXQLX I'll try to switch the harness and see what happens. |
|
|
10-13-2021, 11:43 PM | #7 |
Join Date: May 2021
Location: Central Florida
Posts: 80
|
Sounds like you’re on the right track with the wiring. I would be very cautious about trying to rev the engine beyond the designed redline, though. The forces generated on reciprocating parts can reach a destructive level, and chances are you are going outside the peak HP curve anyways unless you are upgrading the cam, etc. more RPM doesn’t always equal more HP.
__________________
2021 Lifan Xpect EFI 2012 DF250rtc 1982 Yamaha Virago XV750 1982 Honda Twinstar CM200 |
|
10-14-2021, 09:13 AM | #8 | |
Join Date: Oct 2018
Posts: 25
|
Quote:
Oh absolutely, I don't like getting up towards the redline as the vibrations seem to get harsher and I can get circulation issues if I have it up at those high rpm's for long time. I'm more curious about the effect of variable spark timing than I am in the rev limiter. Could you use a custom EFI to take better advantage of a different fuel and get a more efficient burn? I saw a funky three lobed spark plug that came with one of them, very intriguing. I'm currently stopping every 100km to refuel and it's a bit of a PITA. I'm actually considering moving to a 650 as my buddy has one and I keep getting dropped when we ride, something like a DR. Trying my level best to squeeze all the horses I can from this thing first though! |
|
|
10-14-2021, 12:06 PM | #9 | |
Join Date: May 2021
Location: Central Florida
Posts: 80
|
Quote:
__________________
2021 Lifan Xpect EFI 2012 DF250rtc 1982 Yamaha Virago XV750 1982 Honda Twinstar CM200 |
|
|
11-15-2021, 07:58 PM | #10 |
Join Date: Oct 2018
Posts: 25
|
So I looked under the seat and of the four wires coming off the stator, one had broken about an inch from where it plugs into the regulator. I left the harness on the bike, and just resoldered the thing together where it was at. Voila! 13.something at the battery terminals!
I may be selling this one now, I've got a lot on my plate and probably shouldn't be on anything with two wheels, but I'll miss this little guy a lot, that's for sure. |
|
|
|
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|