Rear brake

Reggi88 · 09-20-2018, 03:32 PM

Hey guys, just got my hawk a couple months ago and did quite a bit of the recommended upgrades. The bike is running and performing awesome except...I am having huge issues with the rear brake master cylinder when I go to reverse brake bleed. It will not let the fluid pass thru to continue to the reservoir. I have contacted rps many times to get replacement parts (like 3 full rear brake assemblys at my house). I can't find anything online about this being an issue for anyone else. This has to be user error but I'm at a loss at this point. Please help

**JerryHawk250** · 09-20-2018, 03:37 PM

I used a hand pump vacuum type to bleed my brakes with no issues. Did you adjust the brake pedal so that the piston returns completely on the master cylinder?

ChrisWNY · 09-20-2018, 03:44 PM

I'll second the vacuum option...invest in a MityVac. Had no issues bleeding the rear brake and getting all the old fluid flushed out going that route. The easiest method is to ensure the rear brake reservoir stays filled with clean DOT3 when flushing the brake fluid, that keeps air out of the brake line. You'll waste somewhat more brake fluid using that method but it's inexpensive (about $4 for a bottle that is enough for several brake bleeds) and it's not recommended you store it for long after cracking the cap open.

09-20-2018, 03:32 PM	#1
Reggi88 Join Date: Sep 2018 Posts: 1	Rear brake Hey guys, just got my hawk a couple months ago and did quite a bit of the recommended upgrades. The bike is running and performing awesome except...I am having huge issues with the rear brake master cylinder when I go to reverse brake bleed. It will not let the fluid pass thru to continue to the reservoir. I have contacted rps many times to get replacement parts (like 3 full rear brake assemblys at my house). I can't find anything online about this being an issue for anyone else. This has to be user error but I'm at a loss at this point. Please help
	0

09-20-2018, 03:37 PM	#2
JerryHawk250 Moderator Join Date: Oct 2016 Location: Houma, La. Posts: 11,738	I used a hand pump vacuum type to bleed my brakes with no issues. Did you adjust the brake pedal so that the piston returns completely on the master cylinder? __________________ 2024 Linhai 300 ATV 4x4 2023 Lifan Lycan 250 Chopper 2023 Venom Evader 2022 Lifan KPX250 2020 Kawasaki Vulcan S (Sold) 2004 Honda ST 1300 2016 Black Hawk 250 (sold) Keihin PE30 carb,125 main,38 slow.Pod filter,ported & decked head 10:1 CR,Direct Ignition Coil,15/40Sprockets,NGK DPR8EIX-9,De-Cat,Dual Oil Cooler,Digital Cluster 2016 Cazador180 XL 2014 Coolster150 JerryHawk250.com My YouTube Channel
	1

09-20-2018, 03:44 PM	#3
ChrisWNY Join Date: Jul 2018 Posts: 212	I'll second the vacuum option...invest in a MityVac. Had no issues bleeding the rear brake and getting all the old fluid flushed out going that route. The easiest method is to ensure the rear brake reservoir stays filled with clean DOT3 when flushing the brake fluid, that keeps air out of the brake line. You'll waste somewhat more brake fluid using that method but it's inexpensive (about $4 for a bottle that is enough for several brake bleeds) and it's not recommended you store it for long after cracking the cap open. __________________ 2018 RPS Hawk 250cc Mods so far: 1. Mikuni VM26 Carburetor w/#115 main jet 2. 17T/45T JT sprockets 3. JT 428 X-ring chain 4. Air box mod 5. Hawk Digital Cluster 6. Aftermarket IMS shift lever 7. Performance Aftermarket Exhaust 8. 295mm Nitrogen Gas Monoshock, 20W oil front forks
	0

Thread Tools	Search this Thread
Show Printable Version Email this Page	Search this Thread: Advanced Search
Display Modes
Switch to Linear Mode Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode