Vitacchi Clash 200
 

:hi:Just received my Clash 200 scooter and it's great! But the check engine light comes on/off. Saferwarehouse is no help for technical issues.



Does anyone know how to set the idle speed on the EFI throttle body and will a OBDII scanner tool read codes from the ECU?



Any info at all on the EFI setup? :thanks:



Thanks!!!

The owners manual has instructions on reading EFI codes.

When is the engine light blinking? While cranking is a low battery issue. Can't help with idle, haven't had problem with that yet.

Owners manual
 

Maybe you got the actual Vitacchi Clash 200 manual? I got a very generic cover all models manual that is useless IMHO.


Can you post a copy of the manual you got with your Clash 200?

Manual /Code Reader
 

Forgot to mention that I picked up a cheap code reader off Amazon $12. It plugs in under the front cover and does read out some basic engine stats. I have to play around a little more and see if I can adjust idle etc. Uses Torque Lite app on your android phone.

Mine came with a generic manual too but it does have a page that says this:
Check engine light:
Turn off engine. Open throttle fully while turning on key. Number of flashes with 3 second interval.
1= fuel injector
2= pressure sensor
3= oxygen sensor
4= fuel pump relay
5= temperature sensor
6= idle motor
7= TPS
8= power supply
9= crankshaft missing teeth???

Maybe this manual will help?

https://netcult.ch/elmue/HUD%20ECU%2...4%20Manual.pdf

@NeedInfo200 How to set the idle speed is in there.

Thanks, I'll have a look and see if the scooter EFI parts match up with the manual.

Lifan Manual
 

Thanks for the Lifan Manual link. I read through it and it speaks of an idle gulp valve with an adjusting screw. My efi doesn't have a adjusting screw on the air gulp but there is a adjusting screw on the throttle body. Maybe that's it? I want to connect the ecm to my smart phone using the Lifan ecm interface software. Do you know what type adapters are needed?
Isn't this fun?

Check Engine On
 

It doesn't blink but, comes on after high speed running. Then it goes off again. I notice a misfire when it warms up also.

I may have found a solution for it. I am running some tests now SFSG.

Misfire when it warms up. Valves too tight? Haven't yet checked mine but many Chinese bikes come from the factory with zero lash.

Zero Valve Clearance?
 

I thought the same thing at first, but I can hear valve clatter so it has clearance.


What I did find is that the genuineness at Lifan used a temp sensor for a water cooled engine and not air cooled. Air cooled engine run a bit hotter. So I measured the resistance of the temp sensor after a 15 minute run and then again when it is cold. The sensor reads close to 0 Ohms when hot and around 1.5k Ohms when 75 F. I put a 5k ohm 10 turn pot in place of the thermo sensor and set it at 1k ohms.

Check engine light has not come on and the miss fire has gone away!


Now I would like to check if the ecm is running in closed loop mode and check the map values. More to follow.



Any ideas?

Thanks for doing the research and experimentation. Yesterday I took the first ride on a warm day, 93 degrees. Ran fine but when I got back I let it idle for a few minutes while moving stuff in the garage and the engine light came on. I think you're right about it being related to the temp sensor.

Just rode the same route this morning at 52° and the light didn't come on. Tried riding for a few minutes at wide open throttle and the light came on briefly. Got the scoot up to 69 mph on the speedo which is probably about 62 mph.

After the check engine light came on I tried turning ignition off then holding wide open throttle while turning ignition on. No blinking codes, just normal. Holding the set button while turning on the ignition shows "PAS ---" so there must be a 3 digit code but what is it?

PAS code?
 

I noticed the PAS code also. Must be a way to get into the speedo for changing some settings. I'll try a few pass-codes to see if I can get in. Ie. 0000, 1234, etc.



I haven't had the check engine light come on once since installing a 5k ohm pot and setting it to around 1.2k ohms. I'm going to try and alter the setting to see at which point the bike starts miss firing and then will probably turn on the check engine light.



I believe I found out how to adjust the idle on the throttle body. Small brass set screw directly under the air gulp pulse valve. Looks almost like a idle mixture screw on a carb. CW 1/4 turn at a time with a brief wait idle slows down. Something else to play around with. I'd like the idle to be set around 1850 and not 2200rpm...

Chinese diesel heaters have an admin code of 1688 so maybe that number has some significance in Chinese culture. May try 168 or 688.

Admin Code
 

Any luck with the admin code? I will try messing with it later. Too hot out now 105.



I'm still experimenting with the temp probe resistance. It's been in the 90s here at night so I went on my full throttle run. In testing now I'm lowering the resistance of the pot to see at what point the ecm flags a engine check error.

If I set the pot at 1.2k ohms it runs great but, on a hot restart it acts as if "the choke is on" and stumbles a little. Which makes perfect sense. The ecm is fooled into thing it's a cold start. I lowered the pot to 300 ohms and it seemed to hot start OK. Testing further tonight.

Haven't yet fiddled with the codes.


Is a standard thermistor used as a sensor? Any chance of finding a number on it?

Well in a sense it's a standard thermister. But the range it should have for the ecm is unknown.

The pot i installed is providing a false reading to the ecm in hopes of finding the correct range of operation it seeks.

I'm leaning towards the idea that lifan used a sensor for a liquid cooled engine or that the ecm is programmed for liquid cooled engine operating temps 190-220 and a air cooled engine will run up to 280-290 head temp.

If the cylinder head thermistor is for a water cooled engine then maybe it could be fooled by insulating it slightly from the head. Something like mounting it on a piece of aluminum bar stock that is bolted to the head?

Thermister issue?
 

Looks like your on the same page as I am with this.



That's why I installed the pot in place of the thermister so I can see what parameters the ecm is looking for in both cold and hot running scenarios. Once I figure that out I'll install a fixed resister in it's place maybe 2 on a switch for cold and hot. Unless someone can find out about loading new parameters for the ecm with proper cables and Lifan interface app. I'm not a repair service so I don't want to buy hundreds of dollars worth of adapters etc. I just work on my own stuff. I'm very capable mechanically and electrically.


What is the type of ecm on your Vitacchi 200? Mine looks like a chinese generic brand but, obviously tuned for Lifan 161QMK. Do you have a working set up for viewing the ecm parameters? If so let me know what adapter and cables work with either a smartphone or PC running windows 10.

I haven't even removed the engine cover to have a look at what's underneath but I'll get around to it someday soon. The fuel mixture does seem a bit lean at mid throttle when warmed up. I'm an experienced old school motorcycle mechanic but this is the first EFI small engine I've dealt with. As more Chinese scooters are equipped with EFI there will surely be a knowledge database developed.

Lean machine
 

I agree with you about it running lean. But by fooling the temp sensor it seems to have full range pep. The missing has gone away and the hot start has been cured by lowering the the potentiometer to around 300 Ohms. Maybe a happy medium between hot and cold starting. Wish I had the parameters of the ecm?



The idle is much better 1850rpm (slower) than it was originally at 2200 rpm. I turned the "air gulp" screw on the throttle body CW about 1/2 turn.


The only other 2 things I have done are to replace the cheapo cvt belt with a Bando kevlar cvt belt and replaced the roller weights with dr pulley 14g slider weights lubed with dry graphite. Made a big improvement on acceleration and cruising.

If it runs good at 300 ohms in place of the thermistor, how about putting a 300 ohm resistor in series with the thermistor? That should tell the computer the head temp is cooler but still have a range rather than being a fixed value.

Temp resister value
 

I'm going to run it at 300 ohms for some time. I'll check hot and cold starts so I'm going to leave the pot in there for now. If a 100 or 500 ohm precision 1% resister in series with the thermister is the ticket Great! Rode it today and it started fine 100 degrees outside.

Speedo test with GPS:


40 indicated = 35 actual

45 indicated = 40 actual

51 indicated = 45 actual

56 indicated = 50 actual

62 indicated = 55 actual

Speedo/Odo Accuracy
 

I noticed my speedo is off by about +4 or +5 mph after 40 mph. I haven't checked the odometer accuracy yet with my phone and GPS. I suspect it is off also.

They sure don't do much setup on these before they crate them up. I wonder if it's clone brother the Honda Click 150i has the same issues?



Maybe someone has a Honda Click 150i service manual for finding out how to get into the speedo calibration menu? The Honda appears to have the same speedo cluster with a couple more features turned on.

Checked the valve lash this morning and they were correct, a snug .004 intake and .005 exhaust. Access to the exhaust gap is a little tight but otherwise very easy. I noticed that it does have one of those compression release doodads.



The spark plug is a ZY brand CR7H9A and the color was good. I'll put in an NGK plug but there is probably nothing wrong with the stock one.


Dug through my resistor box and found a few 1/4 watt resistors from 33 ohm to 300 ohm to try in series with the cylinder head thermistor. I'll cut the wire and use wago snap connectors to test.

Numbers on the thermistor are 21-05A and M8*10-A 21 06. Resistance at 70° F is 2135 ohms.

therm resistance
 

Looks about the same as what I got on my readings. I ordered some metal oxide 1watt 1% 150 ohm resisters. I didn't measure current flow while power is applied but I think 1 watt is more than enough. With 150ohm I can go series for 300 or parallel or both if needed. It rarely gets below 40F here even in the winter time but, I won't be riding it then anyways so I need to use a lower resistance for warmer weather. So far running and starting good at 300 ohms.



Is your odometer accurate?

I clipped in a 100 ohm in series today but haven't ridden it. Started fine. Gets real cold here in freeze dried Central Oregon desert. Also lowered the idle speed. Haven't checked the odometer yet.

Rode it this morning with the 100 ohm resistor in place and couldn't get the check engine light to come on but it was only 51°. Ran fine.

Hard start when hot
 

I have 300 miles on my Clash 200. Figured out why it hesitated when starting . If you turn on the key and the fuel pump turns on for a few seconds and don't start it then turn of the key, the next time it primes up will have a hard first revolution.
Wish I knew where to get parts other than the dealer I bought from.
My speed is also 5 miles less than the Speedo says according to Google maps on my phone.
Have had no real trouble and get about 80mpg riding easy 35-50mph.
Anyone put on the windscreen? I have one ordered.
I put on a phone holder but can't see it well with sunglasses on.
Everywhere I go people want to talk to me about the Clash 200.

The auto compression release is the reason it starts like it does.



I put on a generic scooter windshield $33 from eBay.



What parts do you need. GY6 engine parts are cheap and easy to get. Plastic parts may be harder to track down but are likely the same as the Honda Click.

Mainly concerned about if the fuel injector, computer or display goes out. Where to get parts. Didn't know about the Honda version.
Are you saying the 161QMK motor uses the same engine parts (head, clutch, variator, rockers) as any GY6?

The GY6 is a pretty standardized design. It's quite likely that parts from any long case 61mm bore GY6 would fit. Being a Lifan, I wouldn't expect the engine to have any problems. EFI parts might be a problem right now but before long EFI scooters will be the norm rather than the exception.



The plastic should be the same as the Honda Click or Honda Vario which are popular in the Philippines and other countries.

You are right. When I looked up Honda Click, I saw plenty in the Philippines, so the parts are out there but saw nothing on Ebay.
I did order the cheap windscreen. I hope it stops the whistle in my helmet visor. I plan to ride in winter here in Florida. At least try. Thanks for the help.