getting an xpro titan and apollo db36 soon, shipped yesterday
 

So let me start off by saying I am 50, and my son is 19. We recently moved to Wyoming and are close to lots of public riding real estate. I could go get a japanese bike but I dont intend on punishing the bike(well maybe a lil, smile) and I really dont want to pay 7k plus for a bike so I looked into going with a dealer aval Kayo, but wtf, msrp 1999 and out the door price 3700??? yeah im gonna pass on those fees boys im good thanks. I was looking at used bikes but what I want either isnt coming aval or is 2/3 price of new and 15 or more years old. So what to do?
I grew up on used(junker xr, rm, yz, etc) and am quite able to tear down and rebuild a bike so I started looking at the chinese bikes. Years ago I bought a right way atv (chinese made) kid's 4 wheeler that ran for 10 plus years(yes I had to mod and repair stuff), but overall I definitely got my moneys worth out of it. I will be running the appolo, and my son is buying an xpro so we will compare them and I will be updating this periodically with mods(specific info such as the why, what part and where to get, and or any fabbed up stuff, or important maintenance needs), as well as issues etc.

So far, this forum has provided me with a lot of info as well as resources for these bikes and I am pretty excited to get started, and to contribute. Updates inc probably beginning with initial assembly in about 10 days to two weeks.

Can't wait to see the reviews and comparisons :tup:

Xpro/Apollo
 

Welcome, this is a great forum alot of information here. I purchased a 2019(used) early this year and having a blast with it. I'm 64 and rode with my oldest grandson(15) last week a few times. I was trying to upload a picture from riding but couldn't get it to work

both great bikes with lots of mods and easily sourced parts. the people here are your best help for anything technical related to do with those bikes other then one issue im having currently i havent even had to reach out for help yet with all the info there is on my 250rx

You're not lying! That is why I got my very own X-Pro DLX (street legal)!!

You won't be disappointed at all with the X-Pro line. I have been told that they are under Orion, which make some pretty solid bikes as well.

Personal opinion - I would upgrade to the 520 chain, especially for off-roading; which means new sprockets around too. Also would get the carb to make it easier to adjust the mix / idle. I'm on a 110 main and 38 slow, does very well.. but that's just me!

Assembly is easy with those, would recommend adjusting the valves before you get everything together, that way you won't have to fight to get it later!

I have ridden mine pretty hard so far, probably will back off lol but it's been able to take some nice jumps and definitely feels right at home in the dirt, mud, gravels, woods, you name it. Coming with the nice aggressive knobbie tires makes it easy to keep everything under control off-road.

You're going to have some good rides, dude! Good luck and get a good color too!!

Well, I got the apollo db36 today and started assembly. Got to the swingarm and one of the outer dust seals is missing(of all the things I didnt expect that). Anyone know where I might get one of those lil devils, or what should work Honda xr200 maybe but what year?

disregard, finally found it after scouring the road and course of the pallet jack. Missing the lock nut but thats alright I can get a m12-1.25 flange nut

the apollo250rx are clones of a honda crf230f basically. every honda part for that engine has fit perfectly and ran very well.

if you need chassis/frame parts orion/apollo motor sports has a pretty decent selection and amazon is great for almost everything else.

The apollo is great just modify it as you get more into it as it can use alot of upgrades to get to a MX standard like all these chinese bikes, best part is there is full on honda parts your bike has access to with very limited modification if any required. Very good bike... use lock tight and make sure you get a new carb asap (vm26 mikuni is the going favorite for non engine modified 250rx apollos and zong engines) and a jet kit ( 27.5 pilot and 115 main from the suggestions based off users Douglass).

hope your having fun

I just tuned my carb; my results: (X-Pro XB88 250cc DLX) 30mm Mikuni clone, 42 slow jet, 120 main jet, moved the needle up on slot, and using the pod filter - I can now *safely get to interstate speeds with my gearing and carb adjustments. Before, I was only topping around 45MPH at high revs. I got the 520 chain, 12T front sprocket, 30T rear sprocket - with the new carb setup, this thing feels like an actual CRF250 lol I would try out some bigger jets dude, especially if you're going to be riding on pavement a lot. I'm around 75% dirt, 25% road - but I do have to ride to get to where I'm actually going.. so I do have to sometimes take the interstate to catch an exit I can't get to on back roads. I have tried the PWK pumper carb but couldn't fit in in my setup - not enough room, and the hookups were all wrong. Plus couldn't find an intake that was the rubber boot style to put on my engine; came pretty close to one, but didn't fit after all.

THIS part is probably the most annoying - mainly because everyone has a different setup than anyone else, and recommendations lol Like I mentioned I'm on 120 main and 42 slow - that may or may not be enough, or too much, for what you're accomplishing. OH - if you plan on keeping the stock chain setup, totally cool - but I would highly suggest an O-ring or X-ring chain.. lasts much, much longer and doesn't have much side to side movement; less likely to pop off if you do get close it slipping out. Plus the stock chain doesn't have O-rings or anything to keep the dirt out!!

I'm very pleased with my X-Pro setup after tuning everything up - just takes some time!

Cycra makes a skid plate for the YZ250 called the 'full armor' skid plate - and it fits perfectly on the X-Pro chassis!! It isn't metal, but will definitely help protect your under carriage from bottoming out - and I have multiple times WITH the plate, and boy am I glad I got it.. only about 60 bucks too; Amazon. WELL worth the money!!




* = Lightly taken in terms of actual safety.

Alright so assembly almost complete. Took it apart further than it was, and checked torque etc. Tried to check valve clearance through the ports and cannot get a angled feeler in there. Instead of pulling the cover I set it to tdc and just made sure the rocker had at least some play(prob not enough but it should loosen on break in) If i need to pull it apart later for performance issues I will but im gonna run it in and see how it does. Pulled the plug before firing the bike and it was obviously run somewhere after being built and was in a rich condition. Replaced the plug with a new ngk, started and ran for 20 mins or so(plug looks better but may be a little lean(I am at 4600 ft at my house) I wanna run it in a bit more before adjusting. It has a bog on throttle blip so im probably gonna replace the carb(I already have a mikuni knockoff on hand)and rejet after running the bike a while to see how it acts under load.

Things I have noticed and or altered.

The plastics are shit engineered and tolerances are ass... one hell of a time getting them on the bike but they will go on with some great effort and leverage.

The stock tank is not a good design and will probably vibrate loose or break the rear mount unless you mod a bit. What I did was take two rubber squares about 1.5x1.5 inch and silicone them into the frame crossbar that sits under the tank(take the square and press two ends together so they make a upside down U shape and silicone the ends inside the open frame bar) so that the tank compresses them into the frame and rides on them to eliminate vibration. I will try to see if i can get a shot of this with the seat on tomorrow so it makes more sense.

Thats it for now, more later.

ok brother so you need to get your self the plastic tank off orion power sports if you got on with a metal tank and that stupid rear bracket. When you get one message me ill show you a awesome way to install it without welding. If you have a plastic tank use a pool noodle and cutt in lengthways in half zip tie it onto the frame and viola insulted tank but the seat is a bitch if you insulate it at all and if you dont enough it will break or rub through beware.

also the bike runs rich from factory to avoid a lean condition. change the carb use a 27.5 pilot and a 115 main from what the buys here suggest. 2 - 2 5/8 turns out on the bottom adjuster and 3-4 turns out on the idle screw. These are suggestions based off threads iv read on mikunis and these bikes. The sound your hearing is the carburetor needing new jets, a 30mm vm26 or pwk30 carburetor and some soft break in riding... the bike needs to warm up before you floor the throttle period. If it doesn't idle adjust the idle screw dont blip the throttle. let the bike warm up and break in first dont ride the piss out of it or youll regret it. a full tank or so of nice riding non top end should be enough.

change the carb try my suggested settings for the mikuni (VM26) and after that do some calm riding and after youre happy and made sure its tuned right. Too rich is better then too lean but ideally a light brown plug is what you wanna see after a ride. to check different throttle positions if your bogging intermittently run it till it does it a few times then steadily hold in the clutch fully and hit the kill switch and let the bike come to a stop pull the plug and youll be able to tell if its rich or lean causing the bog.

lean - whiteish or pure white in very bad cases
rich - black soot ...the more the richer it has been running

depending on the throttle position it does the bog.. bog bog noise at neutral or riding(not a bahhhhhhhh sound that is a normal to somewhat lean tone) this will tell you if you need to adjust the corresponding control part:

Needle - 0%-25% throttle
pilot - 15%-50% throttle
main - 50%-100% throttle
fuel mixture screw - 0%-100% throttle
idle screw - 0% throttle (only idle)

remember black rich ..white lean.... you can check by the spark plug or more accurately by sound at throttle response. it better to start rich when adjusting then lean out to smaller jets or mixtures as its safer in my opinion and many others iv read.

Also do not run that bike with the factory oil! its really really not ok.

Yeah good stuff. I am not a complete nub, but all advice appreciated. I intend to go ride the bike a good bit tomorrow nothing really demanding. I will put Rotella 15-40 white jug, diesel spec, as many suggest - in it before I do so. The bike is definitely a bit lean with the stock carb. I have a mikuni clone, and will put it on after running the bike a bit. I see no point in doing so right now as the bike will change after breaking in a bit so I will just deal with the bog etc and work it later.... plus the plastic is such a pain in the ass I dont want to do it a lot to rejet needlessly. As far as the tank is concerned, yeah I will prob change it at some point but I think I have extended its life a good deal by modding as I have so for now I will just run it.

Without tearing the new carb apart, which is a pain in the ass with the screws rounded etc.... do you know the stock jetting on it? The clone mikuni I have is 100/42 and as I have said the stock carb is definitely lean...
Thanks for the input

I should expand on the stock carb being a pain in the ass.... I recently moved to Wyoming and a lot of my tools are in transit. I really dont want to go buy a dremel to groove the bolts just to find the stock jetting on that piece of shit carb.

and so you know what im talking about.... its from idle up so 0-25%.... the rest of the throttle seems fine but it backfires after letting off so overall lean

my bad you never know. you should be good on what you said about the engine check over. just the oil in it doesn't do anything literally and will score as it doesn't create enough VOC at the friction bearings (yes i found this out the hard way) no matter what your going to go through 3 jugs for two oil changes and it would break in better with that diesel spec oil you have and wouldn't dislodge so much scored material. iv heard to seizures on these engines from the stock oil is the only reason i brought it up.

also getting a half slip exhaust will make jet changes much better vs taking the tank off and such to pull the carb. the spilt pip can be taken off the front and the carb area is fully accessible.. if your going to do mods and test jetting a lot this is a nice addition to these bikes. Also you only have to remove the tank bolts and the two seat bolts and two bolts at the front then fuel line to shut off to pull the tank and such its not too bad but the plastics dont have to be removed just leave them attached to the tank thats what i do anyways and it protects the bottom outlet port for the fuel line also from kids that like to knock stuff around like mine lol.

stock carb jetting is a weird one and jets you cant even buy ... a 112 main 39 pilot keihn jets if im not mistaken but both jets you wont need likly especially if your going mikuni as the jets are different. i have starting good starting points for jetting for keihn PWK and mikuni VM26 carburetors for these bikes just the needle clip you will need to test and change mostly to your altitude. your most likly going to use second from the top or middle needle clip position if you are asking for a suggestion.

if you dont have tools modifying that stock carb is going to be impossible as its disabled from factory literally its not a fluke theyre done like that for a few reasons. Emissions and to prevent a overly lean condition causing a early warranty. get some good oil and 93 octane fuel and break it in best you can till you get tools and the new adjustable carburetor. sucks but i did say to grab and install the new carb when you do the bike as it would be ahell of a lot easier. you will prob only need the tools you where given to assemble the bike other then to get the bowl drain plug off the new carb. changing the carb isnt a huge huge ordeal but after assembling and entire bike lol i would be snoozing on the carb install for a day or so. Dont worry though youe bike is ok just hte stock carb does this from factory and its irritating if you dont change it 10 out of 10 rides your take lol. just bite the bullet have a few more coffees then normal and attack the carb swap and try the jet settings i suggested most places that fix bikes have these jets in stock as almost every mike can use any carb practically speaking of course.

i remember how frustrated i was the day i did my bike.. and not alot of answer to the same questions your asking for this bike specifically.. ill watch your post bud if you need anything let me know.

ok 0-25% throttle i got you.

there is a cap atthe top of the carb that the throttle cable goes to

under that cap is a slider and a needle under that... you might need to watch a video how to take the cable off and not want to rip it apart as it takes practice to get these things off and on fast.

once the needle is out of the slider change the clip position from 3(middle) to up one or down one

if you move it up one it will lean out your bike at 0-25% throttle
if you move it down one it will rich the bike at 0-25% throttle

its a good thing to note you really should have access to a mixture screw when you do tuning.. overall if you want to fix the condition you should swap the carb

o shit wait dont do that !!!! i forgot they have the top cap disabled with a thread plug... ugh im not sure what to do with that stock carb with out tools.

if you can get the cap off then do what i suggested but if you dont get the thread lock off its going to rip the threads off and youll need to change it anyways

ok so you dont know the stock jetting on that shit carb? its all good I will prob just put the mikuni knockoff in and go from the the supplied jets 100/42... adjust from there. Yeah im active on this forum and intend to be for the haul so I will be around. Thanks man

Yeah Ill get the cap off ... no worries

i robbed the stock carb for these bikes of the jets and the only two weird ones i have are the 112 and 39 so thats more likly the jets off the carb it comes with

definatly dont run the mikuni with a 100 main sir its will do almost the same as your dont like right now. just a heads up so you dont get frustrated because if you pull the carb for a change then when you rejet it because its not doing what you want youll be pulling it off again to do the jets. up to you of course just the leg work to do carb work on this bike can get tedious.

hope the swap goes well post if ya need anything

alright, ill swap in a 120 main and start from there. I will leave the plastics off once i start til i get it in range. again thanks for the info. I will advise ofc what I end up with. appreciate your and all replies

115 120 125 130 are the only main jets youll need but the 120 should be it unless you get a rich plug when going full WOT and shutting it off with clutch in... then go to the 115. i ran a 120 till i did the compression upgrade then my main and pilot had to go down

good luck man hope the tuning isnt a pain in the ass. Took me 26 times to fully feel confident i tried everything and picked my favorite set up for my configuration but the jet specs and tuning values i posted before are all from stock apollo 250rx owners with a mikuni vm26

looked on orion for a plastic tank, and the only one listed doesnt look correct. Did you have to fab up some mounts for it or something? The link for the tank listed is https://www.orionpowersports.com/pla...0-and-z20-max/
or maybe the right tank is not being sold anymore...

Ok, so today my son got called in so the ride was scratched. I had nothing but time so I pulled the tank and plastic. Fought with that mickey mouse setup and finally got the garbage carb out. I wanted to see what jets were in it but only had a drill to work with so drilled off the base screws and pulled it apart. LOL, the jets in it have no indication for what size they are at all. So I put the clone carb with the 100 and 42 in the bike figuring it can't be any worse, sat the tank on it put a little go juice in and pushed the button. The bike fired right up and the throttle response is instant with no bog or other symptoms when on the gas. I have jets coming in a few days, and will adjust if needed.

frame mod to keep tank from rubbing or vibrating
 

Had it apart today so snapped pics of the mod.

LMAO a 100 and a 42 im surprised they run like this... im apologize i was wrong i wonder where i got those two weird jets then hmm weird.

i sent you a link to the proper plastic tank and make sure you get a gas cap for it (rx) as it doesnt come with one. they arent cheap beware and dont forget the pool noodle for under the tank or youll be buying a new one if it wares out.

once you get that carb and jets in it should feel like a different type of bike all together.

No update on the apollo, waiting on some parts and stuff. Nothing was broken, well the bottom chain alignment/guard was mangled so I took that off but really just things I am going to change(jets, tank).
The xpro came in today, and I have to say that it is packaged more completely assembled and easier to wrestle out of the crate IMO(my son and I had it out of the crate and rolling on both wheels in 20 mins or so), but to be fair it is not 100% assembled. The engine in the xpro is at a different angle in the chassis and as such the kickstart is at an angle that leaves less travel, but seems adequate enough. The battery/air cleaner joint area is, uh, odd . I will follow up on the xpro filter/battery area after getting it all assembled which is on hold pending a carb, and a nice gash on my finger healing :( . I mentioned the chassis being diff on the xpro~ there is a good deal more room afforded on the xpro as the frame is just tubing instead of the slab of shaped medal down the side of the apollo and it appears carb tuning/maintenance would be much easier. More later.

Filter / box is pretty odd on those, I have the X-Pro myself. I was running the TwinAir oiled blue filter for the YZ450 - great filter if you're keeping the airbox stock! I got the 30mm clone carb, tuned up now, and yes the area under the seat to get into the carb is MUCH nicer than most others - I can even get my little flat head in there to the mix screw. Haven't had to change batteries out yet, about a year on mine now still good. Kick start hits my right foot peg, left some good marks on the kick lever lol I can say yes the unboxing and put-together was very easy, almost 80% assembled! Seems pretty lubed up when I got mine - linkage needed just a dab of grease. You will be changing carbs pretty quick, mine was off and swapped in under a week. I am running a pod filter now, just for more air and bigger jets. Engine - yes, these do have a slightly different engine than the Hawks and some of the others, it IS a SOHC setup though, valves are pretty simple to get to; I would take the tank off and slide it back - perfect room. Only one bolt holding it in place. I maaaay get another TwinAir filter and go back to stock air box though - even with the stock box, I hit 80MPH with that bike on I81; and the bigger jets. Glad to see another one out there! :clap: I was beginning to think I was the only one that got one of the X-Pro's! I got the KTM orange lol

I had some backfiring when I was using the filter that came with it - are you on the stock filter; and if so is it oiled? If it isn't oiled, this *could* contribute to the backfiring. Once I got (for my X-Pro) the TwinAir YZ450 filter, all backfiring went away, down-rev and all. If you have some high weight oil around, you can use that - just toss it in a bag, drop some oil around the filter and massage it in nice'n'good like lol But, could be a little too rich and spitting that fuel into the exhaust and dieseling - which is why I got my new carb I could tune up. Needle placement was a big help too, no more bog on idle blip. Turns out, middle position for my needle was restricting the flow on a quick throttle blip - now it's nice and aggressive. Once I got the right mix (to the best of my ability) going into the engine, I don't have so much violent vibrations at higher speeds now either. Would note I got a hotter ignition coil and an NGK Iridium plug too - that's a big must. The stock plug is.. well, I don't want to get moderated lol but it's bad.. Wrong gap, barely made a seal.. I even had to clip the ends and make new contact from the coil to the plug boot - was poorly slapped together foolishly and not making good contact with the center lead. But, for some reason - the oiled filter took out all my backfiring issues and smoothed the whole RPM range out. The stock filter is yellow with an orange brim, cone / pyramid shape and literally dry as a sarcophagus lol Just a tip - dunno if that'll help out or not! :tup:

ok got the xpro assembled today. I was waiting on jets and a carb but this bike has more room to work and seems easy, well easier to replace so why not slap it together right? Yeah so a few things: One of the battery brackets was missing, and after barely snugging the bolts in the handlebars one of them stripped. The nut was just spinning in place and the bars were still moveable if that gives an idea as to how loose the bolts were.... Trip to the local hardware and some grade 8 bolts later and those bars are tight!!! $10 fix. The battery bracket, well, i gave it some thought and they look like pipe hold downs so a few measurements and on the same trip grabbed a pack of 3/4 pipe hold downs and drilled a hole in the top and now that is fixed. The bike started pretty easily but wouldnt stay running without the choke being on half choke. Ok so its lean, I assumed it would be. It runs a bit better after warming but its def lean so the carb will be replaced, b/c the shit one in it is not worth modding to make it adjustable imo. Rode it around the house a few laps and it seems ok minus the feathering need due to the carb issue, although the suspension is really soft in the rear. I will adjust the shock once my spanner arrives and see if I can get that acceptable. Another week or so and I should have these out on the trails and will give a more in depth review/comparison along with some pics of the bikes and some Wyoming beauty in the background. One final note, I have not messed with the filters on either bike yet. I will oil them and see how much that helps the lean condition. I am sure it will some but I suspect that I will have to upgrade both and do some modding before I am comfortable with it.

So I got the apollo fairly well jetted and tuned yesterday~ starts easy, idles good, good throttle response. Also yesterday got everything on both bikes fastened to my liking and lock tite on the key areas. The xpro needs a diff carb and jets but those parts are not yet on hand. Took both bikes to a local recreational track today. I put a couple laps on the xpro and the rear is too soft, but overall very manageable even with the throttle response being off. The Apollo felt a lot better overall in the ride department over whoops, small jumps, and off the berm... also being jetted more close to what it needs the Apollo felt like an altogether different engine than the xpro. I imagine the xpro will feel a lot better once I adjust the rear shock and get another carb on it.

Cons today:
The xpro:
Stock clutch and front brake pedals have bolts in them to adjust the pull at the grip and, although seemingly a nice touch, I am not a fan. Even with two nuts and thread lock the front brake lever adjusting screw worked loose and fell out on my son.
The xpro has a cheap shitty fuse under the seat that shit the bed about 45 mins into the ride. This ended the ride for that bike today, but we grabbed some 30A name brand fuses on the way home and will add those to the tool kit for future rides.

The Apollo:
For today there were zero real issues aside from I am going to adjust the chain a bitter tighter than what the sticker on the bike recommends as it just seems a bit loose to me and slaps around a bit, yes I added a new lower chain guard so it wasnt that. The Apollo went about 90 mins or so of laps around the park(whoops, berms, small jumps etc) up and into 4th gear wide open. One prob a bit too much over the main track jump of about 6-8 ft with a couple feet of air, no problem.
Overall The appolo is a pain in the ass to work on as the plastics dont fit well and are a bitch to get on and off the bike. Additionally, the frame design makes getting a carb on or off a chore.

More to come as stuff develops, or mods happen. For now, I am happy with the value to fun ratio of both bikes and expect both to hold up fine for trail riding which is what we really go them for. The track today was to get a feel for the bikes and just see how they hold up. Really glad I decided to go to that park and didn't head off into the national forest without a pocket full of fuses ~~~ that would have really sucked.

I think the reason you like the apollo more is its a trail bike and the xpro is a lower end MX style bike and lighter in design. The apollo you can ride mostly comfortable on the seat. The xpro is almost always standing on a track so you can distribute the suspension and weight at every bump and the xpro is a 125 usually for smaller people like teenagers in most cases for chinese 125cc bikes.

The xpro isnt as fast as the apollo but if you change the sprockets on the xpro and do some Carb work like you have already throught of it will have a bunch of more snap throttle response and acceleration. A 47 rear and 12 front with a MX gold chain will do you alot with that bike. the jetting you will see some more consitent power over the entire operation of the bike just like with the apollo but i will admit the apollo gets alot more from the carb work.

Theres a bunch of rear shocks on amazon you can swap for both bikes and you defiantly want a reservoir shock for the apollo if your taking it on a track. Also if your going onto a MX style track dont hit any jumps with the battery and such installed unless youve done a really good rear shock upgrade. These bikes are trail bikes hitting a 5 ft jump with this bike will destroy the rear plastics and air box.

I initially started this thread saying I would compare the bikes and am continuing to do so as time goes on.

I dont dislike the xpro, which is a 250 with the exact same engine btw, I just need to adjust some things to make it better. Didnt mean to make the narrative sound like the xpro is bad, its not at all a bad bike it just has some small issues(clutch and brake levers, missing parts, bad bolts, shock way to soft) I have yet to address whereas on the apollo, other than the really fat frame and the garbage stock carb, it is fine out of the box.

Sorry if my message wasnt clear it was really just the diff in hones real life experiences so far from unboxing through the first rides.

Thanks :)

Just a quick update. Nothing ground breaking but didn't want to appear as if I dropped off the face of the planet. I have both bikes updated with the vm26-30mm fake mikuni from amazon which come with a marked as 100/42 jet setup. The markings are not correct. The carb as shipped just needs the air mixture adjusted and the slide needle tweaked for my altitude and they are working well. Waiting on the plastic tank to arrive for the apollo, it was shipped from the Netherlands but I am pretty sure it is on a sailboat somewhere at the moment. Both bikes have had a few test rides on a local track, nothing too demanding. I keep checking the lock tited bolts and stuff and so far so good. New tank or not, both bikes are going up into the Bighorn National Forest trails/wilderness next week and will give an update thereafter. About 4-5 hours on each so far no real issues.

Enjoying the thread . Keep posting up when you can , I'm definitely following along

I do wish the X-Pro had a gas gauge. Haven't ran out on the trail, but have on the road once. Right across the street from a gas station, so not far of a push. But that is quite annoying wondering about the gas level. Haven't taken out my extra fuel tank, need to start doing that I guess. I'm pretty impressed with my X-Pro so far. I did have it fall over on the trailer once on the way to get it inspected before plates, and nothing happened to it. Nothing bent or broke - was so surprised.

The catless pipe off Orion's website is perfect for the X-Pro as well. I just got mine on not too long ago. Can't go out for a ride because of rain - but patiently waiting to see the difference. I think they claim a 3-5HP increase.

So to update and sorry for the delay, had fam visiting. The day long trail ride went pretty well, except the knockoff carb on the apollo decided to lose the fuel air mix adjustment screw 3 hrs into the ride. Shit happens, i get it. After this I decided to put on a nibbi carb and mod the bike with a new air filter and etc. I did get the orion plastic tank in and am waiting on the new carb setup to arrive to get it all buttoned up. Pictures from the ride you say... yeah I will get them uploaded in a day or so.
\
The xpro, btw. Running like a champ and no big issues. The forks bottom too easy imo and I will be upping the fork oil volume soon to see if that will remedy that. I also adjusted the stock settings on the rear shock to stiffen it a bit and it is working fine.

more and pics from the wyoming countryside to come.

PS kibbles made some valve lash lash adjustment tools with his 3d printer and was kind enough to send me one......... its in transit since 19th... usps, who I work for, has it strapped on a turtle slow walking it across the country. I will update when it arrives as to how using it goes.

:)

Ok small update, and a few pics from the ride. I know I took better ones but apparently I failed at actually taking them, not sure what happened. The plastic tank from holland arrived so I took everything apart since I am gonna be putting on the new carb in a few days. While apart I went ahead and set the valve lash, no i dont have the tool from kibbles its lost in the mail :( , so it was a bit tedious, and I took the time to make a bracket for the plastic tank(it is quite secure). Short update after the carb is jetted, installed with airbox mods and tested ... so maybe next week.
Oh, on the xpro~ holding off on modding that as my son wants to see how mine turns out, but other than needing to pull the top off and set the lash as I suspect it is off as well, the xpro starts and runs pretty well... plugs are just showing a bit hot but not so much it is an emergency so he is hesitant to pony up the cash. :0

Hope this is informative and fun to follow, more to follow as it happens. pics to follow when the site stops being quirky.

bracket pics
 

uploading pics to this site is such a pain in the ass. The trip pics are just going to have to wait until I figure out a way to do this without making the pics 3 pixels by 3 pixels.

Woooooaaaaaah man - I got you covered.. check your inbox.

Image uploads: https://imgbb.com/ - easiest solution I've found to upload.

I'm liking the updates man; following! I need to get out on mine again and hit some trails. Thanks to all the storms and such, I haven't been able to go out anywhere. I did get to test the catless pipe, finally. Got up to 75MPH barely pushing it. Didn't want to blow a tire or anything so I took it at face value lol though, I am running a little more rich now. Gotta fix the mix soon.. Interesting with the tank - just a personal preference for a plastic one over metal? I kind of wish mine was metal so I could use one of those magnetic bag things. No need to now, I got a bike GPS last week. I'm waiting to see the results between the two honestly - the Apollo was going to be my first option over the X-Pro.

Slightly off topic - anyone have an idea on where to attach power supply after ignition so the GPS turns on with the bike? I don't think the rectifier turns on with the key.. maybe? I don't have the best of schematics in the book to go off of either lol I do have taps, ghetto solution in a pinch, but it'll work for what I need.