Hawk 250 - replace gearshift spindle
 

Sooo
The shift lever broke on my Hawk yesterday after a slow low side yesterday. Not the pedal, no, no, but the lever rod itself just inside of the splines. Twisted right off. This is a stock pedal clamp with my own bolt. Suspect I shouldn’t have used a bolt that wouldn’t strip out and allow the clamp to shred.
Yay!!!
Who carries stock engine parts and is responsive? Does the TT250 engine match?

The TT250 looks like a possible match but not sure. Check with TXpowersports

Ah. I didn’t see that Txpowersprt had the Hawk
I have been in touch. I bet that’s it.

In cracking into this I’ll need a book.
Which Honda engine should I look for a manual on?

I have two manuals I can email you. PM me your email address and i'll send them to you.

Thanks a ton
So, could I presume that a CG125 gearshift linkage and spindle will also fit? A Honda part would ease my mind.

That I could not answer unless I had one in hand to take measurements.

Yeah. I’m gonna pull it and take with me to the Honda dealer this morning.
Will have part numbers handy from offshore vendors where the CG125 motor was quite plentiful.

Good luck, hope it works out.

You're better off going to a China bike dealer. Honda dealers in the US can't get parts for things sold overseas... My friend, a parts manager at one, was looking into getting black CRF250L bodywork, and basically was going to have to order it from Thailand, from a Thai dealer shipped to his house to get it. That being said, I have access to in-Honda, their online parts catalogue, and I could probably let you know if there's any cross reference with a USDM model(most parts guys don't know how to do that). My guess is that there could be interchange between a cb125 and your bike, assuming it is a 5-speed with a conventional shift pattern.

Right I was thinking CB had same crankcase as drawings “appear” “similar”. Although conventional wisdom states the CB125 ceased US sales in ‘85.

TX Poweraporta didn’t have the part and are checking with supplier. Ricky’s has not responded to requests through email, phone, or PM here with Adam.

the part goes by different names depending on the source but “gearshift spindle” appears to be the more forthright convention. Looking at my setup and the resulting damage I feel I may have also put the pedal at to dramatic and angle to the clamp, forcing a twisting shear. I took some close ups of the spindle failure and it appears the metal had a lot of flake/impurity, not surprising.

You could call CSC and have them verify a few measurements like shaft diameter and length as I think it would be a match. Worth a try.

24610-107-760 Is the part number for all of the vertical (OHC XL, CL, SL, CB, TL, NX, and CT) 5-Speed 100-125 singles sold in the US up to 1989 (but not the XR100, that's a different motor all together). It appears that it is still available on IN, but I'd call a dealer just to double check, because sometimes it appears available until you order it.

It is possible that it is a different length than the one that you are working with, solely based on the fact that it is kick and electric start (the electric start side cover is a bit wider, but I don't think it is wider right there). It should cost $50 or less. XR200s are different, at least in terms of part numbers.

Any chance you can weld it up until you find a replacement?

Local dealer had no new but did have a used part - in fact, they had 3!
$20.82 including tax
have test fit everything and its a perfect match

Honda is shorter by a pinch - not a problem at all
the big difference is the spindle material

will post detailed side by side comparison later

THANKS for the help!!!

That's good to know. You and franque have uncovered valuable information. Another part number to add to list.

Here we have the stock Hawk shift lever spindle beside the Honda part 24610-107-760
Hawk is gold tone electroplated while Honda is light silver

The shaft end which butts against the right side cover is much rougher on the stock part with a very course machining done at the factory, probably not a big deal in this application.
the Honda part also has a small dimple in the center

While a workshop manual suggested removal of the clutch and oil pump would be necessary, it was not. Only had to remove rear brake pedal, kick-starter lever, disconnect clutch cable, also remove header pipe for easier access to clutch connection, and the right side cover. All eleven bolts for cover are 8mm flange bolts with one being longer than the others (the long one is forward most on the case).


I don’t have a metallurgical degree, but experience with steel bolts with these appearances used in other automotive applications, I know which I would think is stronger.

As far as measurements, the only differences is the stick out from the crankcase will be 5mm shorter with 4mm coming off the shaft before the spline and the outer splined portion being 1mm shorter. The welds, plate and spring seem to be comparable.

Views of right side interior shown here
Forgive the rotated images

The forward-most mounting for the cover has a small sleeve protruding from the case for alignment assistance, this is where the long cover bolt goes.

Remove the cover straight back a good distance to clear the kick-starter shaft.

Looking at the shift plate in the next image, there is a circlip (removed in detail photo) which is removed from the gearshift spindle and then a spring retaining this plate. Ease the plate out and then the shifter can be withdrawn through the right side. When re-installing, be sure to use a little assembly lube or oil and align the tabs of the large spring to go on each side of the case extrusion for such purpose.

The clutch engagement rod has a notch cut out which did not seem to show any problematic wear.

Good for you for jump in and getting this fixed:tup:

It would be a good time to clean out the centrifugal oil filter while you have the cover off.:)

Good point I did remove the three screw cover found a need for a special socket to go further in that direction. However it was super clean inside.
BTW this rig has 1600 miles on it now - about 90-100 hours

If you have the stock Speedo it is in kilometers so roughly 1000 miles. I know :crazy:.

??
Stock cluster indicated MPH until 365 miles when I upgraded to the digital with tach that you have. I’m quite sure the milage is accurate. hours mentioned as a correlation with dirt bike use to add insight into wear observed on spindle.

The Hawk had a lot of wear, IMHO. While both stock and Honda spindles were the same (less than .01mm as measured with POS digital caliper 3x) the Honda had a slightly firmer and smoother feel going through the right side bushing - that nice solid feel.

After a 20-mile shakedown everything was still right and proper with a tighter feel at the pedal, but that’s probably a red herring or placebo talking.

Yes the stock cluster indicated an inaccurate MPH but the odometer indicated an inaccurate kilometers. lol The digital cluster is one of the best mods I have done.
Glad the Honda part worked out. I wonder how many other Honda engine parts will work on the hawk?

It took two days to receive a response from Ricky’s and TXpower has not yet responded on their capacity to provide a part. Unsettling to say the least. However, with the collective heft of this board’s members, blessed in astute reasoning skills, this hopefully short-lived dearth of support can be overcome.

Thank YOU for the great support.

thanks for posting this info. today my son and girlfriend went down on the grass and broke my shaft off too. replacement time.


I've not done something like this before, so if anyone has any other details on repair, I'm all ears.

:thanks: this saved me a bit of time
about to throw it in when i get the replacement. hoping i can do so without having to remove the clutch.