Rhino 250
 

Will be here this coming Wednesday:yay:. R&L wanted to deliver tomorrow but there were no available slots left to take off work until Wednesday:ohno:.

Got the tree camo version since my boy has the green camo Coolster 3150 DX2. Any preliminary advice I ought to know while assembling it?:hmm:

What all upgrades are a must on these 250's to help performamce and longevity?

:thanks:

Excellent! Which camo did you get? I wanted the tree camo at first but it wasn't available so I went with the traditional green camo. It looks just fine to me!

Here's my thread. It's long but breeze through it. There's a lot of good info regarding mods and upgrades.

http://chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=15117

The problem is I had to dump a bunch of pics because I filled my quota. These pics got deleted.

I like my Tree Camo Rhino.. think it looks sharp with the black trim and less like a Chinese clone. It's similar to the realtree style.

Plenty of modifications in this board... think it helps if you state what you intend to use your Rhino for though.

On mine the stock carburetor needs replacement.. doesn't have wide open throttle. Haven't had a chance to install the VM26 Mikuni clone in it yet(was supposed to today)

The headlight bulbs can be replaced with LED versions.. makes a huge difference. There is a topic on this board I started sort of like 2LZ's thread with the modifications I did. Has the links to the lights and pictures.

Found out my clutch wasn't set right at the factory. The hand lever has no freeplay so it might not be engaging fully. Might have been why it stalled on the big hill.

Wheel adapters for the rear are nice to widen the stance closer to the width of the front tires.

The air filter relocation to under the seat is a nice easy and cheap mod to perform. If your driving through puddles and shallow streams its a good one to do. Having a hole saw of the right size helps.
(Harbor Freight sells em cheap)

Out of the box you should just put all your focus on setting it up right.. getting the trim lined up right, grease bearings, change oil, set the clutch, set the idle, set brakes, locktite the nuts/screws. And just take it from there. Yours may need less or more tweaking to run right... that is just Chinese manufacturing in a nutshell though.


You may want to go to R&L hub to pick it up yourself. I did that with mine that came via Estes .. was able to pick it up later in the evening. Like a kid at Christmas time there was no way I was going to wait till after the weekend to get it.... LOL

Save that angle iron from the crate... comes in handy if you have a welder... wouldn't use it for the hitch or winch mod though.. its a little thin and soft.

All great advise, especially making sure it's properly set up and assembled and also, the carb is junk. I'm not sure about outside of CA but my carb was all sealed up, both the floatbowl screws and also the slide was red locktited in place. That was a MOTHER to remove so I could get the cable out to replace the carb.

Arrived at about mmm 10:30am. Outer box was ripped pretty good and taped up. Peeked inside and seen no visible damage. And that's the first time I've seen square tires :lmao: Chinese have a vacuum that sucks them down that far?

Bought a tube of blue locktite(gel). Dang that stuff ain't cheap. Thinking about installing grease zerks on the ball joints and tie rods. Anyone did this. I've watched YouTube videos of it done. I know there can't be much if any in there.

But taking my time with it, oh yea that's the funniest looking air filter contraption I've ever seen on a quad :wtf:

Nice... a garage with a lift.. I'm jealous

Those foot wells tuck under the black fender trim.. they kind of pop in. Only mention it because I see you have the drill out.

Looks like a milwaukee impact gun.

Nice rig. Thanks for the pics.

Thanks Darth. Yea I was using the drill as a nut driver for loosening and tighten things up, make it quicker than a ratchet. Everything that doesn't have a poly lock nut gets a dab of blue locktite.

Used a piece of 2x12 and with the car lift, lifted it off the pallet and metal crate then support it from underneath to work on it.

Thanks Al! Yea that electric impact is a beast for sure. Rated at 1100 ft/lbs in loosening and 750 ft/lbs in tightening.:tup:

Looking great!....and I put my foot buckets over the fender trim by mistake and yes, it takes a drill. It was so cold when I assembled it, I had to put the foot buckets in front of our wood stove for a couple days to get them to straighten out.
The square tires are awesome! Flintstone, for sure.

Do yourself a favor and throw away the air filter and replace it with a foam pod. That filter is garbage, unserviceable and brilliantly pulls air from the bottom side so you can suck up the creek water!

Thanks 2LZ:tup:

Some comparison pics of the Rhino vs the 3150DX2 from Coolster. Rhino is definitely scaled on the bigger side. Pics may not do it justice.

And 2LZ I tried reverse install on rear and didn't do a bit of good. I can easily see what you mean by crab stance :doh:. Wheel spacers will be a priority too.:)

I have mine reversed PLUS the spacers. I think that pic was deleted and of course, I have no pics on the PC I'm currently at......

These are what I ordered. You'll have to get slightly longer bolts to replace the stock ones. Thery're not quite long enough to get the nuts on properly.

https://www.amazon.com/Factory-Spec-...iglink28144-20

Nice looking quad MizzouFan, I like the camo pattern.

Curious Question. What are the antennas on the front rack of the coolster for?

Take Care, Swampy

Thanks Swampy! Yea that's our rendition of web catchers riding on the trails I've cut out in our woods. These little orb weavers spiders like to span their webs between the tree's all over the place. They're harmless but it's real annoying riding through them as they're usually at face height while on your quad.

It freaks the kids out having a spider web and possibly the spider too on them.

Thanks 2LZ, ordered a pair. Kinda strange they'd stick a axle like that on there where there is that much difference.

Don't think I haven't thought about this myself and have asked about it. Here's what I've been told:
1- My CB dealer said, "It turns better and more easily with the staggered front and rear tires."
2- So it fits in the crate.

Probably both are a line of crap but hey, it's better than no explanation at all!

I can see how solid rear axle quad would turn better with a narrower rear track. It'd be easier to get more of the weight onto the outside tire, and the inside tire wouldn't have to slip as far. At least that's my theory.

I think it's to fit the ATV into a smaller crate. More crates per shipping container more profit.

Too bad these bikes don't have IRS. Loved the ride and how the suspension articulated with IRS on my former Yamaha big bore Grizzly 686. But I'm sure that would add to the cost of the unit.

Oh and I went ahead and purchased a Mikuni VM26 clone off eBay for $39 shipped from the west coast.

Sold something so had funds sitting in PayPal. What jets y'all think I should get? Elevation here is roughly 900ft above sea level. Thanks fellas!

Bill

It looks like the Rhinos are coming with LED headlights now. Can you give us a closer look at those? I got my ATV just a few months ago but it came with the standard bulbs. I've since upgraded to LED and will detail in a post soon after my other mods.

I think a 110 main, and a 25 to 27.5 pilot jet would be a good starting point on a stock "230cc" engine with no intake/exhaust mods

?

I'm sure Weld will be by soon to help narrow down the right jetting

I don't ride at that elevation, so I'd only be guessing. I'd start with Azhule's recommendation and tweak from there.

Go here and go down to post #69. Weldangrind was kind enough to put all the info together.

http://www.chinariders.net/showthrea...t=15117&page=5

I'm running a 115 main and a 30 pilot, but it's a bit rich, especially for my elevation (3000').
I'd suggest you try a 115/30 and a spare 110/25, just in case as Azhule says, especially if you're going to stay with the stock bazooka muffler. They're cheap enough. I'm running an FMF TC2 on my Rhino. Opened up the breathing nicely.

Swampy's new Kandi quads has the LED lights. He says they're equally as worthless as the regular bulbs.

They probably saw my headlight mod posted here... Hahahaha sounds like they got it wrong though.

Additional lighting on the way, will give a review.

What did you get Swampy?

What's the best way to check alignment of the counter shaft sprocket and rear sprocket, and tools required to perform the task at hand? Something I've never did but am willing to learn this so I can also check my boys and girl Coolster ATV's too.

Thanks fella's!

I got these and they're damn bright. Mounted them on the front plastic guard. I wired them into the high beam circuit.

https://www.amazon.com/Nilight-Drivi...led+atv+lights

I also mounted some similar, but round units under the rear rack for reverse lights

Sorry, double post.

You can't really align the rear axle. You can loosen and tighten the chain but that's about it. Most of these run a little "crab-like". My axle is pointing slightly to the right but it's presented no problem other than looking a little funny.

I did however discover that if you back out of the garage fast, then instead of using the brake, you click it into first and use the clutch as your brake before you start rolling forward, it will torque down on the chain roller and pop the chain off. 2LZ usually learns the hard way.

Yea factory LED front lights are totally worthless. More aesthetics then functional.

Had a pair of Rigid D2 driving lights that I pulled off our truck before we sold it(too $$$$ for this ATV). Sold them to a friend that lives in Napa, CA for a 6 wheeler of his. Even the so called high beams don't light squat up.

Couple questions..1. Is this the right plug for this motor-NGK D8EA. 2 is it ok to run Rotella T6 5w-40 in these or should I stick with the heavier oil for the clutches?

Thanks!

Yes and yes.

Like mudflap said you have the right plug. Our Rhinos are manual gear boxes so you do not have to worry about oil for the clutches. A manual system is dry only the autos have that setup.

Lights similar to what 2LZ put on his. Had a slight hip issue yesterday which kept me from installing. Plan on sharing when I can get to them.

Just to be clear, CG engines like most motorcycle engines have a wet clutch so the type of oil does matter. Rotella oil for diesel engines and most motorcycle specific oils are fine but many car oils will cause the clutch to slip.

Got tired of the no low end grunt and the excessive chain noise from being sloppy. So spent the coin on one of them WGS 37 tooth rear sprocket. Wasn't really knowing when to expect it. So got it ready for it. I knew the jets were coming today but..