Tutorial: Adjusting the Shock Spring Preload for the RX3
 

The spring preload setting of the shock absorber in the RX3 produces a very harsh ride. Fortunately, adjusting the spring preload allows this shock to perform much better.

Remove both saddles from the bike, and remove the black plastic panel which covers the battery on the right side of the bike.

To adjust the shock spring preload, you must raise the rear wheel from the ground to remove the bike's weight from the shock absorber. If you have a center stand, lift the bike onto it, and weight the front of the bike to raise the rear wheel from the ground.

I don't have a center stand. Therefore, I place the side stand of my RX3 on a brick, which almost raises the bike to a vertical position. I then turn the front wheel to the left, and place my Husky 3-Ton jack under the center stand support on the right side of the motorcycle. Pumping the jack lever raises the rear wheel off the ground, and places the bike in a very solid, secure position.

http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/q...psxye6kyd8.jpg

Remove the rear wheel so it was not weighting the shock absorber, and to enable yourself to gain better access to the shock itself. To protect the brake caliper and brake line, secure the rear brake caliper to the swingarm with a piece of Romex wire.

http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/q...psv9zkj5k8.jpg

The locking ring for the shock spring has a single Allen bolt which tightens it. You adjust the spring preload either by turning the spring itself, or by turning the locking ring, which sits above the spring at the top of the shock. You don't need a special tool to tighten the spring preload. To gain access to the locking ring and the Allen bolt, remove the battery and the battery box from the motorcycle.

First, remove the battery. Then remove the evaporative canister which is attached to the bottom of the battery box.

http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/q...psfupmxdmz.jpg

http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/q...psezygjkdk.jpg

However, before you can remove the battery box itself, you need to gain access to one of the four bolts securing the battery box, which is partially covered by the upper side panel at the rear of the bike. Remove the screw at the back of the side panel, and remove the bolt securing the right side of the passenger hand grip. This will allow you to pop the side cover panel from its rubber grommet. With the panel loose, tilt it clockwise, which will allow you to remove the final bolt which secures the battery box.

After removing all four bolts, remove the battery box, which allows full access to the locking ring of the shock spring.

http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/q...pslnl6jzbm.jpg

http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/q...pshqqh5z92.jpg

Using a socket wrench and an Allen key adapter, loosen the locking ring. Moving aside the mud flap, grab the shock spring with your left hand. Kneeling beside the bike, also grab the shock spring with your right hand.

Turning the spring counter-clockwise for three revolutions of the locking bolt, you should completely loosen the locking ring. This will verify the shock has been set at the minimum spring preload.

After verifying minimum spring preload, tighten the spring for three revolutions of the locking ring, returning the spring to its original setting. Then tighten the spring for an additional, three complete revolutions, to increase the spring preload. Next, tighten the Allen bolt, which secures the locking ring in place.

Having adjusted the spring preload, replace the battery box. Then, attach the evaporative canister to the bottom of the battery box. Replace the battery. Then return the side cover panel to its original position. Finally, replace the wheel. Lower the bike from the jack or center stand, replace the black panel covering the battery, and replace both saddles. With the bike fully assembled, you are ready to take a ride to test the shock absorber with the increased spring preload.

Repeat this entire procedure, either tightening, or loosening the shock spring preload, until the shock absorber performs as you desire.

I presume that six full turns from zero preload is about right for a 200+lbs rider; is that correct?

I would guess six full turns from the stock position, which is minimal preload, would be about right for a rider who weighs 200 pounds. :) Unfortunately, I weigh more than I should, so I am going outside shortly to add another 3 turns to the spring preload on my RX3. :hehe: This setting will bring me nine full turns from the minimal preload position.

I haven't added all the luggage, and the crash bars, to my RX3. Therefore, I might need to adjust the spring preload some more, after I finish adding all the equipment. However, it is much easier working on the bike in its current 'naked' configuration. I suggest riders sort out the suspension on this bike before they add all the luggage, et cetera. ;)

Great tutorial Spud, Thanks,

Now for a dumb question :hehe:

Being a beginner at suspension adjustment

What is the " ride feel " I'm after for when it's set right.

or is it one of those things that can't be explained

Spotted another difference CSC / Honley, no evaporation canister for us (UK)

Thank you, Kat. :)

You want the suspension to feel smooth. You don't want to feel any harshness or jarring when you encounter potholes, or bumps in the road or trail.

I will take more photos of the connections to the evaporation canister when I check the valve lash. It doesn't weigh much, and it doesn't block access to anything, but I am still considering removing it. ;)

did you measure the sags before adjusting the shock
to give you a idea where you need to be heading
or if you can get the correct setting with the standard spring
for your weight..

what you should be after is
35mm Static Sag. "bike under it's own weight"
33% - 1/3 of suspension travel , Rider Sag.. "Rider on bike"




.

Yes, I did measure the static sag. I'm waiting for my friend to help me measure the rider sag. However, I think those measurements apply more to dirt bikes, than adventure bikes. Also, in this particular instance, this shock absorber seriously needs to be adjusted to achieve the best results, irregardless of the 'ideal' numbers. ;)

Road bikes set for
10mm static & 20% rider
so if you set somewhere in the middle
of road & dirt you could be about right...

Be a Soft road set up or a hard dirt set up...

I used a shock spanner wrench and jacked the bike up to lift the rear wheel as Spud suggested. It was a bit fiddly, but I was able to make 3 full turns in a few minutes without removing anything.

That's the way I set up the shock preload on my other bikes, Pete. :) I used that method when I installed a stronger spring on the XT225 shock absorber of my Zongshen ZS200GY-2. I also used that method after I installed lowering links on both my Honda XR650L, and my Honda CRF250X.

I wanted to use that method on my Zongshen RX3, but my good friend who has helped me in the past was unavailable for about a week. The RX3 shock absorber is soft enough in stock configuration to be punishing at times. :ohno: Also, it was set for the minimal spring preload, so I decided to experiment with the spring preload while I waited for my friend to find time to help me. ;)

Because of the limited suspension travel, and the adventure/street bike characteristics of the suspension, I decided to adjust the spring preload for the best riding response on pavement and dirt while I waited for my friend to help me perform the traditional method.

I believe I have optimized the shock preload as best I can for the stock equipment, but the shock performance is still not satisfactory. I suspect either the limited suspension travel (5.6 inches) is not adequate for dual purpose riding, or, most probably, the stock shock spring is not strong enough for my weight. ;)

Therefore, I am going to keep the current settings until my friend finds time to help me employ the traditional, proven method. ;)

Thanks for the additional input, Pete. :) I was going to research that information, but I haven't had the time to do so. ;)

Good for you, George. :) Have you had time to do a test ride? If so, what were the results.?

Pete's method is certainly the correct way to configure the shock spring preload, and I should have mentioned that at the beginning. ;) However, I was anxious to improve the sometimes punishing ride of the stock configuration, and I know RJ in Walla Walla was also looking for some relief. ;) I strongly suspect the stock shock spring is too weak for many occidental riders, and we will need to find a stronger, aftermarket shock spring.

I should be able to confirm my suspicions when my friend is available to help me perform the correct method. ;) Until then, I will keep my current configuration, since the ride is much better on both pavement and dirt with the increased spring preload I have configured.

if thats all it's got you will need to use harder settings or you will
bottoming out on ruts/pot holes etc
8" - 200mm would be far better for a ADV bike..





.

Unlike your results Spud, I found the suspension had been set too firm so I loosened it by 3 turns. The shock now soaks up the bumps rather than jar my coccyx, but I didn't find any noticeable difference in handling. The rear wheel follows the contours of the road much better, although I still need to play with the rebound for additional fine tuning.

Once I have the rear set up, I'll turn to the front and review your comments on fork oil viscosity. I don't want to make too many changes at one time so that I can isolate the effects of each one.

You are wise to make one change at at time. ;) If you loosened the shock spring preload by three turns, you now have virtually no spring preload. Is that correct? If I may ask, how much do you weight?

Undoubtedly, 8 inches of shock travel would be much better. I'm hoping a shock absorber with more travel designed for another motorcycle might fit the RX3. I will take some measurements when I have time. In the meanwhile, I would like to install a stronger shock spring. ;)

I got my friend Andy to help me make some measurements. Here is the current configuration of the shock spring preload for my Zongshen RX3.

R1, the first measurement, was made with the rear wheel lifted, and the suspension totally extended.

http://www.harrymoto.com/MX/RaceSag/Sag1.jpg

R1 = 23"

R2, the second measurement, was made while I stood on the foot pegs, with full riding gear.

http://www.harrymoto.com/MX/RaceSag/Sag2.jpg

R2 = 21-1/4"

Race Sag = R1 minus R2 = 23" minus 21-1/4" = 1-3/4" = 1.75 inches

Total suspension travel = 5.6 inches

Race Sag should be roughly 33 percent of total suspension travel. (1.75 inches Race Sag) divided by (5.6 inches total travel) = 31 percent

R3, the third measurement, is the bike supporting its own weight.

http://www.harrymoto.com/MX/RaceSag/Sag3.jpg

R3 = 22-3/8"

Free Sag = R1 - R3 = 23" minus 22-3/8" = 5/8" = 16 mm

I obtained these numbers with the spring preload tightened to 6 turns beyond minimum preload. The shock travel is still a little too soft for me, so I need a heavier shock spring. This situation is also corroborated by the size of the Free Sag.

The current settings give me an acceptable ride, but I will certainly be looking for a stiffer shock spring. I am also interested in an aftermarket shock absorber with more travel, or a shock absorber designed for another bike with more travel. ;)

Be careful what you ask for. 8 inches of suspension travel adds ~1.6 inches of ground clearance and seat height, contributing to the top heavy feeling of other adventure boats. Think KLR, Versys, Strom, and about any BMW GS other than the original 650 single. All of these bikes borrow from racer suspension technology to try to create what is essentially a dirt road tourer. Such faddish engineering does not provide good results. Back in the olden days us old farts raced everything with 5-6 inches of suspension travel. We went a LOT faster than any Cyclone will ever go (140mph was a competitive speed) on 5-6 inches of well controlled suspension travel.

For adventuring I'd rather have a well controlled 5.5 inches of travel with the corresponding lower center of gravity since I generally ride at slow-down-and-smell-the-roadkill speeds these days. After all, that's what an adventure bike is for.

If you prefer dualsport riding, pretty much a play racer with lights, the Cyclone is the wrong bike for you. Get yourself something with a chassis designed for less weight and longer travel. There are a plethora of such bikes available form a variety of manufacturers. I'll happily putt along on my TW or Cyclone with 5-6 inches of suspension travel and let the play racers with their 9-11 inches of suspension travel pass. I'll generally catch up to them when they crash.

My opinion is trying to turn the Cyclone into a dualsport bike will ruin the unique character of the bike.

My Zongsen ZS200GY-2 has 6.5 inches of fork travel. The XT225 shock absorber I installed on it has 7.5 inches of travel. I have ridden this bike over 69,000 miles, and traveled on it for many multi-day trips to Nevada, Utah, Wyoming, and Montana. Of course, I have also ridden it extensively throughout East and Central Idaho.

I don't race my Zongshen Sierra. I enjoy riding it at a slow pace, just as you do with your TW200. :) The suspension in my Zongshen ZS200GY-2 is much superior to the stock suspension of the RX3, at all speeds. Perhaps after you receive your RX3, and start riding it, you might get a different impression of the bike's suspension. However, I certainly do plan to experiment with a stiffer spring on the stock shock absorber before I start looking for alternative shocks. :)

Indeed, if you are a lighter rider, the stock shock absorber might work perfectly for you. :)

Spud, did you go through this process with your 200? I don't recall seeing a thread about it.

After I performed my XT225 swingarm conversion, I noticed the XT225 shock absorber was too soft. Doing some research on the XTT225 forum, I discovered this was a common complaint for many larger riders. The solution was to order a stiffer shock spring from Cogent Dynamics. ;)

http://www.xt225.com/forums/ubbthrea...t&Number=61341

I ordered the Cogent Dynamics spring, and installed it on my shock absorber. :) After installing the stiffer shock spring, I adjusted the shock preload as described in this thread. :) However, I did not post a thread on this topic. ;)

You rode my Zongshen Sierra with that shock absorber over 500 miles to the Bonneville Salt Flats two years ago; what do you think?

I'm not a light rider, and I'm not saying the ride can't be improved. Every bike I've ever owned has needed some help in the suspension department, doesn't matter if it was new, old, big, little, fast, or slow. That's just part of the personalization process every rider could do to maximize satisfaction with any bike. All I'm saying is 5.5 inches is enough travel for the bike's intended use and that 5.5 inches needs to be well controlled. Of course, your definition of "adventure" may be quite different from mine, and that's okay, too.

Nor do I always ride slow. Plenty of other riders have commented on even Tdub's ability to keep up with bigger bikes.

The shock will have to be really bad for me to spend the money to replace it. I'll get it the best I can without spending a ton of money and ride within its limits, which shouldn't be a problem because my Cyclone rides will demand significantly less of the bike than yours. We are not blessed with the plethora of beautiful back roads you enjoy. Our back roads are paved, and what isn't paved is pretty much in a fenced park where you ride in circles or reserved for horses and hikers. Yes, it sucks.

I didn't buy an inexpensive bike to spend more than it cost to turn it into a Strom or BMW. That's what I did with Tdub2 and CSC comes out with the Cyclone for 1/3 the price and pretty much the same mission objective. If I'd have known, I would have made Tdub2 into a really gnarly offroader with the stock TW34 tire on the front and some ATV meat on the back. I'm going to build one of those next. :yay:

Zong on!

Who needs suspension, anyway?
 

Found this link on another site.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IOzk...ature=youtu.be

Question: Who needs suspension, anyway?
Answer: Not those guys! :wtf:

:hehe:

I loved it. I could've ridden it home to Canada. :D

I have no knowledge of how consistent the factory is in setting up each bike, so it may be that mine was set up extra firm. I have not measured sag as I'm more of an old school seat of the pants rider, but there is definitely preload on the spring. My weight runs consistently between 170-175lbs.

I bet you are correct. ;) Thank you, George. :)

Ugh. I think there is a lot of inconsistency in the preload setup on the bikes. I noticed very little rider sag when I got on my bike...very different feeling than when I get on my husband's bike. (Not a euphamism :hehe:).

I am guessing this means I'm going to have to try to back off the preload by a fair bit? Is there an obvious 'zero' preload position?. Looks like I need to go shopping for another tool ;)

I counted the number of complete turns required to completely remove the preload from the shock spring. In other words, the spring was completely uncompressed, and there was a visible gap between the spring and the locking ring. Since I only counted three complete turns to this position, I knew the spring preload was at its minimum setting. Therefore, I tightened the spring three complete turns, and returned to the minimal preload setting, before I began my adjustments. I measured all adjustments from this mimimal preload setting, and finally settled at six full turns tighter than the mimimal preload setting. ;)

After loosening the allen nut on the locking collar, I was able to turn the spring with both hands. However, you can also use a punch and hammer to turn the locking collar. Turning the spring by hand is much faster, if you have the strength to do so. ;)

I Am going to have to see if the jack for our truck is suitable for lifting the bike. And then attempt to follow azrider George's shock spanner use to minimize what all has to come off the bike. Course if I don't have a Jack that will work I'll have to get a Jack *and* a spanner wrench

A good tool is always an excellent investment. :)

Perhaps a bike lifter would be a good choice for you. I have the HF model, but it's a little clumsy. I've seen bike lifters that have very smooth operation, and decent mechanical advantage. This is similar to what I have: https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p...rna-Lift-Stand

If you have the floor space, perhaps this would be easier for you: http://www.harborfreight.com/automot...ift-61632.html It's on sale, too. :tup:

Those are nice stands, Weld. :)

However, unlike my other motorcycles, the RX3 really wants to lift the front wheel, no matter how far back you place the jack. :wtf: If you use a lift stand, you will definitely need to weight the front of the bike to loft the rear wheel. In fact, I think it is just about impossible to loft both wheels at the same time, because of the location of the circular mounts for the centerstand. :ohno: Also, a lot of lift stands designed for dirt bikes won't adjust low enough to fit under the perimeter frame of the RX3. ;)

I really like using the Husky jack for this purpose, since it is very unobtrusive, and allows wonderful access to the lower shock linkage. :) Since this linkage doesn't have any grease zerks, it will certainly need to be disassembled periodically for inspection, and lubrication. ;)

Of course, the CSC centerstand will also work very well, as long as you weight the front wheel. :)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I4R1nB0v1Yc