Giov 110cc Mini Beast Back Axel Problems
 

I am having alot of problems with my 110cc mini beast back axel. I finally got time to fix it but now I am frustrated with the back axel, I do not know how to fix it. The rotor is not moving straight, it wobles around a little. Also the chain makes funny sounds.

http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/m...o/IMG_0270.jpg

http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/m...o/IMG_0267.jpg

http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/m...o/IMG_0262.jpg

http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/m...o/IMG_0261.jpg

Yozalo, when you say you "got time to fix it", does that mean you changed the bearings in the rear end? That might account for the rotor wobble.

Also, it appears that the chain is not tracking straight (that would be the source of the funny sound). It is very important to make sure that the front and rear sprockets are in line, and that chain tension is correct. Finally, you must have cotter pins in the castle nuts that hold the wheel hubs on; Princess Auto sells containers of assorted cotter pins for cheap.

Something looks odd with the right side chain adjuster. Are you sure that it's on correctly?

TurboT, do you have a photo you could post for comparison?

I have some pictures I can post when I get home.. however by the look of the wheel nut it is too far in, it is not spaced correctly. I think you are either missing something there or need more washers so the cotter pin Weldandgrind mentioned is through the castlated nut. Mine is in too far as well but not that bad.

I just bought this 110cc and it came broken with some problems. John sent some parts and I got some time to fix it. Also the chain side of the back axel came with a bushing but when I put it in the back axel would not align. It would be too small on the other side so I had to remove it. The problem is that the chain does not align so I need to fix that but I do not know how. The only way I see it is to put the busing in but if I do the other side it is too short. I am not sure about the rotor wobble. Also what is the chain adjuster if so could you take the picture and put a circle around it so I know where it is. Sorry, but I am new to fixing these machines, I have a little knowledge but not as much as you guys.

I already know that I need a cotter pin but I removed it to take pictures. Thanks for reminding me though. I learned my lesson last time by not putting in a cotter pin. Last time my wheel was just about to come off but luckily I noticed it.

Yazolo,

The chain adjustment is done with the screws on the bottom middle of the axel. It appears in your picture they are way out. They should be even on both sides.. ie, when you need to tighten the chain you would turn them evenly as to not tip it either way.

You need to loosen the bolts on the side, then straighten the two adjustment screws located on the bottom until they are even and check to see if in runs true. Once you have the chain running true, then tighten them in evenly to set your chain tension.

I'm not up to speed on 'exact terms' of this.. but let me know if you understand what I'm meaning and if not I will try to re-explain... I don't have a way to circle pictures here.

There is a picture of my back axel in this thread.
http://www.chinariders.net/modules.p...=7984&start=15

You will see the adjustments screws are a little more even. The chain guard is still on but you will see what we are meaning.

Yes, I see that. Yours are very aligned. The problem is that my chain is not going straight. Will the chain tension help it. Also thi might be a stupid question but did you use the giovanni wrench or did you use your own. The one that came with the atv is very shit quality and I'll have to go to home depot to buy some wrenches.

If you align the axel and keep those adjustments screws in line, it will straigten the chain some too, as well as your brake rotor.

If your axel is not in 'plain', it will throw everything off. Get the chain running true and your rotor problem probably fixes as well.

Loosen up the bolts, and get the chain running true, then worry about the tension on the chain by adjusting them evenly after that. Just loosen it first don't try to align it if it is too tight.

Mate I have my own tools, the Gio wrenches are horrible. A good set of sockets, screw drivers and wrenches is a must have if you're going to do any mechanical work. I spent 13 years in an engine shop and own Mac and Snap On from those years. However, crapsman or motomasters will do you just fine.

Yep, I will try that mate. I will buy a wrench set tomorrow. I'm more of those computer guys, not those grease monkey garage working ones. Lol. Anyways, I will report back.

Hey chap no worries really you only learn by doing. When I was your age I didn't know the difference between a nut and a bolt. \

Hmmm....I don't really know how the chain adjuster will fix the chain alignment but I will try it. I am not really certain it will work. Also can you tell me if you put the bushing in the side of the chain sprocket. If I put the bushing in, one side would be too short. Right now, I did not put the bushing in on the chain side of the axel but the other side has the bushing in. The axel is perfectly aligned without the bushing but the chain is not straight.

I'm not sure which bushing you are meaning here..

There does seem to be some sort of spacer between the lower spring arm and the sprocket on mine, which doesn't show up well on yours. This would move the sprocket location more in alignment with the drive/front sprocket. Please note I did not remove the axel at all. It came the way you see in the pictures, and I just installed the spacer tubes and the wheels. Yours came broken which has caused you this grief.

The reason we are mentionin the chain adjustment is if one side is further in than the other, in the case of yours in the pictures, the right rear wheel will pull closer to the front wheel, and the left rear will pull away from the front. This would tip your axel and cause the chain to be out of alignment. However it does look like you may need something there to push the sprocket over more, perhaps this bushing you're talking about.

A good indicator here is also the amount of thread exposed beyond your wheel nut. In a perfect world the end of that nut should just cover the last threads, so when you put the cotter pin in, it rests inside the slots to stop it from loosening. It looks like you have a good 1/4 - 1/2inch of thread exposed. If you have a spacer/bushing you think needs to go in, it would make up the difference you have there and will probably align your sprockets better.

Here is a picture of the bushing so you know what I am talk about:

http://www.69vetteman.com/images/full/sb_bushing.jpg

yozalo and TurboT,

Is it me, or is the right chain adjuster bent on Yozalo's quad? Check out these photos:
http://i566.photobucket.com/albums/s...o/HPIM0125.jpg
http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/m...o/IMG_0261.jpg

That would certainly account for the difficulty in adjusting the chain. Yozalo, see if the right side chain adjuster can be bent (gently) back into place. Once that's done, you should be able to adjust the chain properly. It is most important to have the front and rear sprockets in line so that the chain will track smoothly. After that, we'll concentrate on proper chain tension.

Cheers!

Yes, the are not aligned at all. Weldandgrind I can not hammer it in place since there is a huge difference. I don't know how this happened during shipping but I will contact John for a replacement. The one he sent me was too big for it to fit in. I just took the bearing and the seal from the one he sent me in order to repair it. Ooooo, my god, now I have to do it all over again. Also how do you remove your bearing. I tried removing one last time but it was stuck. Looks like I will need to heat it up with something. Looks, like I will have to buy those mini butane burners which they sell on ebay.

Also weldandgrind what would you suggest for the bushing on the 110cc.

Yozalo, there are two things to note here:
1. It's not that bad. You can fix it.
2. It's the swingarm that's bent, not the axle.

Prop the quad up on a jackstand / block of wood / cinder block (whatever); support it under the fame, not the swingarm. Remove the disc brake caliper from the swingarm and carefully attach it to the upper frame area under the seat, using zip ties or a piece of wire.

Remove the rear axle. Once that's done, you'll see clearly how the right side chain adjuster must be put back into position, so that it looks like the left side. It looks as though the swingarm was hit by a forklift during loading (that happened to mine too).

Once you get the chain adjuster bent back into shape, mount the axle on the swingarm and tighten / loosen the chain adjusters until the two sprockets are in line. Nothing else matters at this time.

Once you have the sprockets in line, we'll worry about the next step.

Ok, thanks. I will try that today or tomorrow.

I agree the chain adjustor is bent way in to far on the left. However it does look like Yozalo is missing something in between the sprocket and the swing arm. Spacer/bushing. Maybe it's the angle of the photos, but it does look like the sprocket needs to move over more.

Either way, the axel needs to come off to fix the bent chain adjustors, as well to put any missing piece in there.

Yes, there is something missing. I will put the busing in which I forgot to put.

Also did you change you brake fluuid as I just checked and it smells like fishing oil.

No I left mine and my brake on the 110cc works like crap, I should look into it..

Want to get the carb sorted on the 50 then will look at other things..

Don't waste your time trying to fix the 50cc carb. I changed 2 carbs already before I sold it. It would go by itself. Get a minkuni carb, it's worth the price.

I can't have it that way I have no way to govern the speed for my daughter with it the way it is. It is over fueling should be able to fiddle with it some to get it right.

Good catch. The more I compare the photos, the more I agree that the space between the sprocket and the axle housing is tighter on Yozalo's than TurboT's.

I bought a 9 pc mastercraft wrench set at canadian tire for $8. I will be fixing it today. Will report back.

I would like to make a suggestion on tools. It pays to by some decent ones like husky or craftsman. Don't need snap-on, but sometimes the inexpensive ones will do more damage than good.

Not that the $8 set won't get you by, but if you plan to USE them they may not last. Tip from someone who has destroyed alot of tools.

Allen

I don't use tools often it's just for my Chinese atv and nothing else. If it ever were to break I can return it within 30 days. Also it comes with lifetime warranty.

I use them all them time so I see them as an investment. They make me money. If they work for you that is good. If someone wants to be able to do their own work on a china ride having some good tools help.

Allen

Mastercraft is a brand name at Canadian tire. I heard lot of good reviews of it but I am not sure. They are made of good quality.

Yes mastercraft makes some good tools, and often Canadian Tire puts them on for good deals. Also, I believe they have a lifetime warranty... I could be wrong, but I think they do.

Yes, they have lifetime warranty. Wow, this thread got tremendous amount of replies. Thanks for everyone's help. :D

Well a set of decent wrenches for $8 is a pretty good deal.

Allen

Hey Yozalo,

Once you remove the rear axle and reveal the bent chain adjuster, please post photos for the benefit of our members. Some photos of the spacer you'll install in the rear axle would help as well. Thanks.

Cheers!

There was a time when MasterCraft Professional Series wrenches looked like they were made at the same factory as Snap-On, even the font they used to inscribe the label and sizes was identical.

I own a set of metric Crappy Tire wrenches they work fine, and are better quality than a lot of stuff you see out there. They should last you a long time.

..I am also interested in your progress, so do post the pictures!

I'm planning on playing with the carb on the 50 tomorrow, I will let everyone know how I make out in the other thread I started on it.

I will definitely post pictures. I was half way done when my fist socket broke. :lol: Also should I replace those chain adjuster screws. I will post pictures of the spacer even though it is not necessary since it is jut a bushing but I will still post pictures in the evening.

Ok, this is as straight as I can get it at. If I go more I will damage it which I don't want to do.

http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/m...o/IMG_0276.jpg

Yozalo, I think you'll have an easier time bending the chain adjusters back if you remove the axle first. Having the axle in place stiffens the whole assembly, and it makes it more difficult to get in there with tools.

Ok, I will remove it from the axel.