It Is Alive!!! Bwahahahahahaha
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v4...0-18-36-04.mp4
Now, if I can get the friggin' carbs to stop leaking I'll finish putting it back together. :? Sad to say, but the Maggot starts better on year old regular and BS plugs than the Hi-Bird ever did on fresh 93 octane and an Iridium plug. |
Another classic saved from the boneyard, well done! :D 8)
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Thanks.
Got the fuel leak squared away. Triple checking for cracks in the overflow tubes without glasses and in poor light is a waste of time. :oops: Going to deal with the recalcitrant temp gauge next. |
Congratulations! :D When you have time, let's see some photos. ;)
Spud :) |
Is it a CX500?
In the Hibird's defence, a low compression motor is a little difficult to start on 93. |
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Yeah, WnG, it's a CX500 |
Sussed the issue with the temp gauge. The 7v regulator for the gauge has left the building. As the regulator is NLA from Honda, I'll be making my own with a LM317T adjustable VR, a couple caps, a resistor, and a pot. Made up a few of these when I converted a few old cars from 6v to 12v.
Adjusted the valves today, too. I want to find the clown that adjusted the valves previously and have his Man Card revoked. No reason for a lash of 3/16" especially when it calls for .08mm IN and .10mm EX. Just need to check on the cam chain adjustment and waiting on some small stuff from Radio Shack then back together she goes. |
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I doubt those valves have ever been adjusted before now. ;) Spud :lol: |
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Spud :) |
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I'm still waiting on the stuff from the shack, so I did a little 'customizing' last night. The valve covers were even too cruddy looking for me.
Cleaned. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...7-11191127.jpg First coat. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...7-11191538.jpg After 12 hour cure time. Wrinkle Black. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...7-12064146.jpg The carb tops were pretty groady looking, too, so I shot them with Hammertone Silver. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...7-12064155.jpg Feels like I'm actually getting somewhere. :wink: |
I like the way those parts turned out.
Can the paint take the heat? Is that a new TV antenna? |
You made very nice color choices. :) Did you use a high-temperature spray paint?
Spud :) |
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It's Eastwood paint for European valve covers so I'm gonna say yeah. And, yeah, a new antenna. Cable will be gone by the end of summer. |
I am also without cable.
Turned it off a few months ago. |
Here's the VR buildup. I haven't made one of these for while so a few things got done twice. :oops:
Anyways, here goes. Parts and stuff. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...7-13194353.jpg L to R:.063 rosin core solder, heat sink, 0.1MF cap, the heat gage below the cap, circuit board with a 5K ohm variable resistor, 240 ohm resistors below the 5K, LM317T adjustable VR(the heart), 1MF cap, dead Honda VR, and my solder iron. Schematic. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...7-13194503.jpg This is printed on the back of the LM317T package. Mostly completed. Clockwise from right, 5k ohm variable resistor, 0.1MF cap, 240 ohm resistor, LM317T adjustable voltage regulator, and 1MF cap. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...7-13205632.jpg Sans heat sink, case, and potting. The LM317T will be folder towards the board after adding the heat sink and the board will be trimmed when I decide on what case I'm using. I used the wires from the dead VR so everything hooks up as stock. No pics of the build-up because I didn't want to show off my less than stellar soldering skills. Testing. Basically, using a battery charger as a power supply. Adjustment is made at the 5K ohm variable resistor. Full 12.4 volt output from my 30 year old Snap-On battery charger. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...7-13205203.jpg Poor pic of minimum 1.2 volt output. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...7-13205322.jpg Dead nuts 7 volt output. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...7-13205303.jpg I'll be powering up the VR again tomorrow to do final test and drop some hot glue on the 5K ohm variable resistor to lock it in place before casing and potting. :wink: |
Thanks for posting the excellent tutorial, Cheesy! :)
Spud :) |
It's cool that the schematic is printed on the back of the package, including options. I liked the idea of using the Honda connector and using hot glue to lock down the VR. Thanks!
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Thanks, guys.
Going to do a second attempt this evening. I found some dimensionally smaller capacitors at American Science and Surplus http://www.sciplus.com while scrounging a small plastic box to use as a case. I'll see if I can make this a bit more compact. |
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...7-14161130.jpg
Original board in the foreground, new smaller board in back. Note the red thingy on the new board, that is the much smaller 0.1MF cap. It replaced the smaller of the two caps. I also found a smaller 1MF cap that replaced the large blue cap and much smaller 5K pot to replace the big pot. I trimmed a half inch off the far end of the board and about a quarter inch on each of the other sides. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...7-14163515.jpg Potting, using black RTV silicone. About ten seconds after taking the pic, I realized I should have just continued with the hot glue for potting instead of the black goo. When the goo sets, I'll cut a hole for the heat sink(big sucker, ain't it)in the cover and pop that into place. Then finish potting. BTW, I spent some time on the American Science & Surplus website and sprung for an adjustable 12V/1A power supply. No more using the battery charger. :) |
This blob is the potted VR.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...7-15140755.jpg Icky looking, ain't it. :oops: |
Form follows function, and beauty is in the eye of the beholder. ;) It looks good to me! :)
Spud :) |
Bit of an update.
It's been beastly hot here for the last 10 days or so, so I haven't ventured much into the realm of skinned knuckles. With a west facing garage door, the afternoons are a bit wilty in there. I am replacing all incandescent bulbs with LEDs. And there are A LOT of them. Four 1157, three 1156, and eight 53 bulbs. Thank you, ebay HK. That saved a bundle. The dash panel has, in the past, had some brake fluid or some kind of solvent spilled on it that boogered up the surface. Also cracked in a few places. The cracks have been fixed and the bumpy surface smoothed out. Hopefully will get a coat of gloss black on it this afternoon. Don't know how much will get accomplished next week as the Worlds Cutest Granddaughter will be visiting and unless I can interest her in Grandpas' bike, there will be many tea parties to attend. :wink: |
Don't know how much will get accomplished next week as the Worlds Cutest Granddaughter will be visiting and unless I can interest her in Grandpas' bike, there will be many tea parties to attend.
Good set of priotities there, Cheesy. :D Nice work, BTW. :wink: |
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Spud :) |
My girls like tractors and tools so Grandpa has an easy job. :lol:
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My folks used to take the two of 'em on Junkyard Tours of the upper midwest while hunting parts for my Dads 1948 De Soto. Her Mom can tell a 1946 De Soto from a 1948 with just a glance, which is better than I can do. :oops: |
Before.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...7-20192416.jpg After. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...7-22093349.jpg There's about six coats of airbrush matte black applied with an HVLP touch up gun. I had intended to use my new d/a airbrush, but I've never opened the package in the two years since I bought it. Lo and behold, no air hose. So I broke out the HVLP squirter. This will sound even worse than the airbrush, but I bought the HVLP touch up gun, a full size HVLP gun, and a Chinese copy of the old Binks 7 gun*, like ten years ago and never took those out of the packages, either. :oops: The project I bought those for kind of went away before I could start it. Long story short, it took me longer to deal with the lack of QC and set up the touch up gun than it took to paint the dash panel. The cracks are pretty well hidden but the rumple is still evident. I may have to find a decal of the Pirate that adorns my key fob to cover it. *I worked at Binks for 23 years. Right up until they turned out the lights and shut the door. :( Seven years from completion of '30 and out'. :cry: |
The dash panel looks nice. :)
Spud :) |
Thanks, Spud.
Things are at a standstill now until the LEDs show up. So, with nothing else to do, I broke open the original 7v regulator to see if I could reverse engineer it. I'm not real happy with the VR I built, too much output fluctuation if the input fluctuates. I've looked into it and will have to do some mods. Anyway, opened the original VR and spent the the better part of an hour breaking off the resin potting compound. What I found was an IC, possibly an LM317 VR,(can't tell as the markings are gone), 3 diodes, a power transistor, a ceramic cap, and maybe five 1/4W resistors. I also found the CB cracked. :? Looking under a 5X magnifier, I counted three solder joint breaks. I repaired these and hooked up to my 12V power supply. Surprise, surprise, I had 11.9V at the IC. :) Unfortunately, nothing at the output. :? I started checking the CB with my DVM and found 6.9V at the output of the IC but still nothing at the output terminal. So, working backwards from the terminal towards the IC, along the board with a DVM, I hit a spot where I was getting 6.9V. Move back towards the terminal, nothing. It took a 12X magnifier to spot the break. Half a second with the solder iron and, voila, I have a working stock VR. :D How well does it work? If I drop the input at the power supply from 12V to 9V, the output only drops 0.1V. If I increase the input to 15V, the output doesn't increase. As pleased as I am that the stock VR is now working, I'm still going to reverse engineer it with all new components. Why take a chance with 33 year old ICs. Look how tiny that thing is. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...7-22131258.jpg |
A littlle off-topic, but Son of Weldangrind's '91 Ranger VR packed it in, which was due to very corroded battery terminals. I found another alternator at the boneyard for cheap, but I was pleased to find out that the VR is mounted on the outside of the alternator housing. I have an eBay replacement (including the brushes) on the way for $23.00. :D I wonder if that type of VR could be easily adapted to a bike?
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There has been some luck with the old VRs that are found behind the dash on Fords from the late 50s to the early eighties. They are there to power the gauges at 6v and can be bumped up to 7v very easily. Usually can be had for a buck at a bone yard. As for the ones off the Ford altenator, who knows. Worth looking into.
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I don't know why most VR's are inside the alternator nowadays.
My airplanes unit is seperate, underneath the instrument panel inside the ship. |
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You mean that I wasn't suppose to take my starter apart and just replace the bendix? :wink:
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That settles it I knew Kato was too cheap to be from Parsons, you are really from Erie aren't you Kato??? :lol: :lol: :lol:
You can always tell which ones are the Erie boys 8O they squeek going through a garage door :lol: :lol: :lol: |
I from neither. I'm Dutch.
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Getting closer as more stuff is arriving. I'm still waiting on the LEDs for the dash panel. I found an LM317 based VR on ebay for less than I could build it for and that showed up today.
Once the temps drop below 'stifling', I'll venture back out to the garage and continue where I've left off. Maybe this evening, after the Advil kicks in. Got a pounding headache and bad things coming out of both ends. :( Geez, I was working in Dallas, TX this week with one of our reps and we decided to go to the jobsite after 7pm to take advantage of the slightly lower temps. However, when we wrapped up at 9pm, it was still 100F. And that was more comfortable than 94F, coupled with the 75% humidity, here in the Chicago area. Which makes my garage a sauna. |
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