RX3: Engine Top End Rebuild at 22,450 Miles
Since I received my RX3 motorcycle, the valve clearances of my NC250 engine refused to stabilize. Therefore, I needed to adjust the valve clearances every 2,500 miles. After riding the motorcycle about 16,000 miles, the exhaust valves finally stabilized, but the intake valves did not. With about 22,450 miles on the odometer, I reached a point where the intake valves were completely tight only 1,000 miles after the last valve adjustment.
At this point I strongly suspected my intake valves were receding into the valve seats. Last fall, after performing a leak test, I got authorization from Gerry at CSC to take apart my engine. With the engine apart, I discovered major recession of the intake valves. http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/q...pstqf6qov4.jpg I repaired my engine this winter, under warranty coverage. My engine has been running well for 3,000 miles since the repair. Several days ago I checked the valve clearances, and they had not tightened since the repair, so I am pleased with the results. This thread will document the top end rebuild of the NC250 engine in my Zongshen RX3 motorcycle. Here is a photograph of my repaired RX3 motorcycle, taken several days ago, just before I checked the valve clearances. http://i.imgur.com/Qcj7bnM.jpg |
Valve recession occurs when the face of the valve recedes into the valve seat in the cylinder head. If not corrected, the valve face and valve seat will continue to erode until the valve leaks, and damages the cylinder head.
Valve recession can be caused by several factors. If you don't regularly oil and clean your air filter, dirt can enter the engine and cause valve recession. A leak in the intake manifold can also allow dirt to enter the cylinder. Defects in either the valve face or the valve seat can also cause valve recession. Since I have always properly maintained my air filter and I did not find an leaks in the intake manifold, I must assume the valve recession in my engine was caused by a manufacturing defect. Hopefully the new cylinder head and new valves have corrected this problem. As always, I appreciate the excellent warranty coverage I received from CSC Motorcycles in Azusa, CA. The exhaust valves in my engine finally did stablize after about 16,000 miles. I did notice damage on the exhaust lobe of the camshaft. I replaced the camshaft during the engine rebuild. http://i.imgur.com/7xOIV4Y.jpg Both of the roller rockers were in good condition, so I did not replace them. http://i.imgur.com/BVgyk8c.jpg http://i.imgur.com/HZRySJY.jpg |
In order to rebuild the engine, it must be removed from the frame of the RX3 motorcycle. With a center stand installed, removal of the engine is pretty easy. Installing a center stand greatly facilitates repairing flats on the road, or trailside. For this reason alone, it is a good idea to purchase a center stand from CSC motorcycles. ;) Removing and reinstalling the engine would be much more difficult without a center stand.
Since I have modified my RX3 with a 21-inch front wheel, I needed to place a piece of 2x8 lumber under the center stand to loft the wheels. After the engine rebuild I coaxed a good friend to weld two extensions onto the center stand. http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/q...psy8aoyuie.jpg You do not need to remove the luggage in order to remove the engine from the frame. Since the swingarm bolt must be removed before you can remove the engine from the frame, you must first remove the swingarm from the motorcycle. To make matters easier, I also decided to remove the rear wheel, lower shock linkage and shock absorber before I removed the engine. http://i.imgur.com/gMT7W8W.jpg http://i.imgur.com/ovX4uFz.jpg http://i.imgur.com/6yOxzjJ.jpg |
Before removing the engine you must disconnect the clutch cable and all electrical connections from the engine. You must also remove the upper and lower engine guards, exhaust manifold, et cetera. I will post several step-by-step instructions for the engine rebuild later in this thread. ;)
After removing the perimeter frame beneath the engine, you are ready to remove the engine bolts and lower the engine. I supported the engine on my 3-ton Husky jack before I loosened the final engine bolts, removed the swingarm bolt, and lowered the engine. Several years ago I made a wooden board attachment for my Husky jack. This wooden board makes it easy for me to support the engine during engine removal and installation. I used this wooden attachment to remove and replace the engines in both my Zongshen ZS200GY-2 (Sierra), and my Zongshen RX3. ;) http://i.imgur.com/ahlbqQo.jpg http://i.imgur.com/pFty3y0.jpg |
Here are several photographs of my RX3 with the engine removed from the frame.
http://i.imgur.com/8x1fWq6.jpg This photograph was taken from the right side of the motorcycle. http://i.imgur.com/jnMjvlS.jpg This photograph was taken from the left side of the motorcycle. http://i.imgur.com/sZkrBrC.jpg In both of the above photographs you can see two red wires piggybacked onto the wiring harness. These red wires are connected to the accessory plugs and power the auxiliary lights on my upper and lower engine guards. |
The cylinder was in good shape, and still had sufficient cross hatching. I did remove the cylinder and piston from the engine to replace the piston rings.
http://i.imgur.com/iReYvl5.jpg http://i.imgur.com/63hZj9M.jpg http://i.imgur.com/nR9DNoh.jpg http://i.imgur.com/25N5omc.jpg After removing the cylinder I cleaned it with a scotchbrite pad and ATF. I soaked the piston for 24 hours in a gallon can of carburetor cleaner to remove the carbon. After the piston was cleaned, washed, and dried, I installed new piston rings. I compressed the piston rings by hand and installed the piston into the cylinder before I installed the cylinder onto the engine block. Tilting the engine to one side, I partially lowered the cylinder and piston until I could install the piston pin and piston circlip. After pushing the piston upward into the cylinder, I lowered the cylinder onto the engine block. |
After lowering the engine from the frame, I found it easy to repair the engine on the concrete floor. However, I did discover I could not remove the nuts from the cylinder bolts by myself using a breaker bar. If I had an assistant, I probably could have used the breaker bar to remove the nuts, but working by myself I could not hold the engine and get enough leverage on the breaker bar. Therefore, I decided to invest in a cordless impact wrench. ;)
I decided to purchase a Ryobi P1830, Impact Wrench Kit, which was on sale for $129 at Home Depot. https://www.ryobitools.com/products/...act-wrench-kit http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/pro...51b71_1000.jpg I like this impact wrench because it has 300 foot-pounds of torque, and 3 speeds. I have subsequently used this impact wrench to change the brake pads and brake rotors on my automobile. I have also used this impact wrench to remove the crankshaft nut from the harmonic balancer when I replaced the timing belt on my automobile. I now regularly employ this impact wrench to remove/replace the lower shock linkage, engine guards, et cetera, while working on my motorcycles. This tool makes working on my motorcycles much easier, and faster. Therefore, I highly recommend this impact wrench. :tup: |
CSC sent me a new camshaft to replace the worn camshaft. I removed the cam sprocket, decompression mechanism and bearings from the old camshaft, and transferred them to the new camshaft. Once again, removing and replacing the sprocket nuts from the camshaft was very easy using the impact wrench. ;)
http://i.imgur.com/44aWUf6.jpg |
Here are some additional photographs I took while the engine was apart.
http://i.imgur.com/8zrWQKm.jpg http://i.imgur.com/z3T4v9a.jpg Here is a closeup photograph of the valve recession. http://i.imgur.com/LbPKmoI.jpg CSC sent me a new cylinder head and new exhaust valves under warranty coverage. :tup: Using my valve spring, compression tool, I installed four new valves in the new cylinder head. I lapped all four valves, and also installed four, new, valve stem seals. After reassembling the engine, I re-installed the engine in the frame, and reassembled the motorcycle. As I posted earlier, the bike has now been running very well for over 3,000 miles, and all four valves are holding the correct clearance. :tup: |
I repaired my engine over the winter, whenever the temperatures were warm enough for me to labor in my unheated work area. During the colder days I wrote a few instruction papers for reference so I could speed the repair process while working in the cold. These repair sheets are not totally complete; I probably missed a few steps which were obvious to me. ;) Nevertheless, I post them here for your information, future referral, questions, and comments.
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Note: In addition to the information below, refer to the following thread. ;)
http://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=15545 Removing and Disassembling the NC250 Engine from the RX3 Motorcycle Perform the following, preliminary steps. Place the motorcycle on the Center Stand Remove the clutch cable and all electrical connections from the engine Remove the MAP/T sensor from the intake manifold Remove the bolts holding the intake manifold to the engine Drain the coolant. Remove the radiator hoses from the cylinder head and water pump. Remove both radiators from the frame. Remove the exhaust header. Remove the perimeter engine bracket. Remove the Swingarm and Shock Absorber Remove the rear Wheel Remove the lower shock linkage Remove the swingarm Remove the shock absorber Remove the Engine from the Frame Remove the two bolts at the rear of the engine, near the swingarm bolt Support the weight of the engine on a jack Remove the two bolts holding the cylinder head to the frame Balancing the engine on the jack, remove the swingarm bolt Lower the engine from the frame Set the crankshaft to TDC on the compression stroke, which will release pressure on the rockers and all four valves. Remove the two plug bolts from the cylinder head to verify the camshaft is in the proper position. http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/q...pskghfuotu.jpg Remove the automatic, cam chain tensioner (ACCT) First remove the center bolt to release the spring pressure. Remove the spring and O-ring. Remove the two screws at the base of the ACCT. http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps7xpkodty.jpg Caution: After removing the ACCT, return the plunger to its initial position by pressing on the locking cam, and pushing the plunger to the base of the tensioner. http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/q...psggsyzmbe.jpg Removing and Inspecting the Rocker Cover Before removing the rocker cover, remove the valve covers. Remove the bolts from the rocker cover. Take care to remove the numbered bolts crosswise, from the outside in, to properly release the tension on the cylinder head. Note: Remove only the numbered bolts. Loosen the bolts in the numbered sequence from 1 to 8. Take note of the four copper washers. http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/q...psvjgoqtr9.jpg Note: The two large, 10 mm bolts are not removed. They are holding the rocker pins inside the rocker cover. Remove the rocker cover from the cylinder head. It is not necessary to remove the two screws that lock the rocker pins, unless you need to replace either the rockers, or the rocker pins. Note: If you remove the rocker pins, always verify their correct orientation, or the oil lubrication passages will be in the wrong position. Improper orientation of the rocker pins will starve the cylinder head of oil, and damage the engine. http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/q...psqpvt8ujn.jpg While the rocker cover is removed, check the axial and radial movement of the cam rollers on the rockers. If a cam roller is damaged, replace the rocker. Also check the surface of the cap at the end of the tappet. If the cap is deformed, replace the tappet. This will allow the tappet to make better contact with the valve head, prolonging the life of the valve. Removing the Camshaft Remove the rubber stopper (A). Remove the bolt and washer (B). Remove the retaining clip (C). http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps0amwbn4u.jpg Remove the bearing adjacent to the cam sprocket. Note: Check the bearings for axial and radial movement. If either bearing is loose in either radial, or axial movement, replace the bearing. Carefully note the correct orientation of the washer (A). The washer must be properly installed to support the weight of the decompression mechanism, and provide enough space for its proper operation. http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/q...psytgps3nq.jpg Note: If the washer (A) is not properly installed, it might also cause noise in the engine. Remove the washer. Finally, remove the cam chain, and put a large zip tie around it, so you can retrieve the cam chain from the engine. Lower the cam chain into the timing hole, and remove the camshaft. Removing the Cylinder Head Remove the bolt (A), which retains the clip supporting the hose leading from the oil contaminant separator (OCS) to the air box. This bolt should always be removed first, before releasing the torque of the four cylinder nuts. Next, remove the four cylinder nuts (B). Note: Loosen the nuts incrementally, in a crisscross pattern, to properly release the tension from the engine. http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/q...psraq9cqyq.jpg Remove the cylinder head. Remove the cylinder head gasket. Remove the two dowel pins (A). Remove the cam chain guide (B). Note: Always replace the cylinder head gasket. http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/q...psbj2ura3d.jpg After the cylinder head is removed you can replace the valves, lap the valves, and replace the valve stem seals Removing the Cylinder Remove the cylinder. Remove the two guide pins (A). Remove the cylinder gasket. Note: The cylinder has a Nikasil coating, and does not contain a sleeve. If the nikasil coating is in good condition, you can reuse the cylinder. http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/q...pszknxgohn.jpg Removing the Piston The piston has a coating of molybdenum and graphite on the skirt, which lubricates contact with the cylinder. If the piston skirt is in good condition, you can reuse the piston. Note the orientation of the piston. The arrow on the piston must face the exhaust header. Stuff a rag into the hole surrounding the piston to prevent dropping a wristpin circlip into the engine. Using needle nose pliers, remove one of the wristpin circlips. From the opposite side of the piston, push the piston pin out of the piston, and remove the piston from the connecting rod of the crankshaft. Remove the piston rings from the piston. http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/q...psdyxbbhtp.jpg |
Note: In addition to the information below, refer to the following thread. ;)
http://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=15546 Assembling the NC250 Engine Preparing the Piston Place a wristpin circlip into the left side of the piston. Install new piston rings in the piston Lubricate the piston rings and the piston skirts with oil Invert the piston over the cylinder, and orient the piston with the mark facing the exhaust header. While compressing the piston rings, press the piston into the bottom of the cylinder. Installing the Cylinder Install the cylinder guide pins (A). Install a new cylinder base gasket. http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/q...pszknxgohn.jpg Pull the zip tie on the cam chain up through the timing hole in the cylinder, and also place the cam tension lever through the timing hole. With the engine leaning to the left, lower the cylinder and piston near the connecting rod Lubricate the piston pin with motor oil, and push the piston pin through the piston and the connecting rod. Stuff a rag into the hole surrounding the piston to prevent dropping a wristpin circlip into the engine. Install the remaining wristpin circlip. Remove the rag from the cylinder block Push the piston into the cylinder Lower the cylinder onto the engine block Installing the Cylinder Head Replace the two dowel pins (A). Install a new cylinder head gasket. Install the cam chain guide (B). http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/q...psbj2ura3d.jpg Pull the timing chain completely through the cylinder and cylinder head Install the cylinder head. Tighten the 4 nuts (B), incrementally, in a crisscross pattern. Final torque for each nut is 28 foot-pounds (50 Nm). http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/q...psraq9cqyq.jpg Install the bolt (A), which retains the clip supporting the hose leading from the contaminant separator to the air box. This bolt should be tightened to a torque of 9 foot-pounds (12 Nm). Check, and make sure the crankshaft is positioned at the TDC mark on the flywheel. If necessary, hold the cam chain and rotate the crankshaft to the proper position. Installing the Camshaft Rotate the engine so it leans on the right side Remove the large zip tie from the cam chain. Place the camshaft into the cylinder head, and attach the cam chain. Keep tension on the left (forward) side of the cam chain, and align the two timing marks on the cam sprocket so they face upward. Install the large washer (A) with the proper orientation. http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/q...psytgps3nq.jpg Install the bearing. Install the bolt and washer (B), and the retaining clip [C]. Install the rubber plug (A). http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps0amwbn4u.jpg Place the rocker cover on top of the cylinder head, and verify the two timing marks on the cam sprocket are properly aligned in the check holes. Double check to verify the flywheel is still at TDC. If necessary, remove the rocker cover, rotate the flywheel, and/or move the timing chain on the sprocket to get the proper alignment. http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/q...pskghfuotu.jpg Repeat the previous steps until the flywheel and cam sprocket are properly aligned. After proper alignment is verified, remove the rocker cover. Installing the Rocker Cover Evenly apply a small amount of oil-resistant silicone to the mating surfaces of the rocker cover. I recommend Permatex Ultra Black RTV Silicone. Install the rocker cover onto the cylinder head. Install the 8 bolts in the cylinder head. Don't forget to install the 4 copper washers. Tighten the bolts incrementally, in numbered sequence. The final torque of all the bolts is 9 foot-pounds (12 Nm). http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/q...psvjgoqtr9.jpg Replace the Automatic Cam Chain Tensioner (ACCT) Install the ACCT with the two screws at the base. Install the spring and O-ring. Install the center bolt to set the spring pressure. http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps7xpkodty.jpg Adjust Valve Lash Adjust the valve lash, and replace the valve covers. You are now ready to re-install the engine into the frame of the motorcycle. |
Installation of RX3 Engine in Motorcycle
Install Engine in Motorcycle Place Hydraulic jack under Engine Raise engine into frame Install swingarm bolt Install both bolts at rear of engine Install upper bolts connecting rocker cover to engine frame Install the two bolts connecting the intake manifold to the cylinder head Install Clutch Cable, Shift Lever and Hoses from Engine Install Clutch Cable to Left Crankcase Cover Install the Oil Contaminant Separator (OCS) on Engine Install Shift Lever Install Electrical Connections to Engine Connect power wire to starter motor Connect Ground Wire Connect stator and pickup coil wires Connect gear indicator wire Install MAP/MAT Sensor to Intake Manifold Install Ignition Coil to Frame Install Spark Plug Boot onto Spark Plug Install Left Radiator Install upper hose from Thermostat Housing Connect fan electrical wire to wiring harness Install Right Radiator Install lower hose from water pump on right radiator Install upper hose to right radiator Connect fan electrical wire to wiring harness Install hose from Thermostat Housing to Cylinder Head Fill radiators with coolant Install Exhaust Header and Perimeter Engine Bracket Install lower engine bolt of perimeter engine bracket Install Radiator Mounting Wings and both top bolts of perimeter engine bracket Install two bolts on rear of perimeter engine bracket Install upper engine bolt of perimeter engine bracket Install Exhaust Header Install both bolts for both radiators Install rear brake pedal Connect wires for auxiliary lights on perimeter engine bracket Install Fuel Tank Install fuel tank Install upper engine guard and connect wires to auxiliary lights Install fuel tank fairings Install plastic side covers Install main saddle Install pillion saddle Install Progressive Shock Linkage and Rear Tire Remove Swingarm Bolt Install shock link on engine frame Install Drive Chain on Counter Shaft, and install Swingarm Install the shock absorber into the frame with the upper bolt Install the rocker arm onto the swingarm, and torque bolt to 38 foot-pounds Install Lower Shock Bolt into rocker arm, and torque to 33 foot-pounds Install rear bolt to link/dogbone, and torque to 38 foot-pounds Install rear brake caliper onto swingarm Install Rear Wheel Replace Motor Oil and Engine Coolant Install Engine Coolant Fill Engine with 1.7 Quarts of Motor Oil |
You must remove the two bolts from the intake manifold before you can remove the engine from the motorcycle. I suggest removing the MAP/T sensor from the intake maifold before you remove these two bolts.
Removing the MAP/T sensor makes it easier to access the two bolts. Also, while the MAP/T sensor is removed, you should clean it with Mass Airflow Sensor Cleaner. Cleaning this sensor periodically will improve engine performance. ;) http://www.autozone.com/miscellaneou...ner/36011_0_0/ http://contentinfo.autozone.com/znet...05110/image/4/ |
Thank you!
Thank you Spud :tup:: another great RX3 maintenance tutorial! :clap::clap::clap:
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Here is another tip. ;)
The cam sprocket also has a dot in addition to the "L" and "R" markings on the camshaft sprocket. You can see this dot at the 11 o'clock position in the photograph below. http://i.imgur.com/44aWUf6.jpg When you install the timing chain on the cam shaft, try to place this dot even with the top of the cylinder head on the right/intake side of the cylinder head. When placed in this manner, the "L" and "R" markings will be placed in the correct vertical locations. If you are satisfied with this alignment, you can apply some black RTV silicon to the cylinder head, and begin the final installation of the rocker cover. ;) |
Wonderfully comprehensive tutorial! Of course, I focused on how you welded extensions onto the center stand; have you started a thread about your welder?
I also liked the idea of making a board adapter for your floor jack. I'm going to borrow that mod. :D Have you considered non-stock valves? Perhaps there are stainless valves that would fit this engine. |
Thank you, Weld.
Regarding the welding, I must confess I got lazy. I should have posted, "I coaxed my good friend Andy to weld some extensions onto the center stand." :lol: I will go back and correct my post. ;) I did a little stick welding back in the 90's, but I need to get that Eastwood welder you recommend. :tup: The board adapter works very well. It provides a nice, wide and stable platform for lowering, and raising the engine into place. I used it to remove the stock engine, and install a Yamaha XT225 engine in my Zongshen Sierra. The adapter worked equally well with the NC250 engine in my RX3. I have not confirmed any other valves which fit the NC250 engine. Of course, the problem might also reside with the valve seats. :shrug: So far, the valve clearances are holding. :tup: I hope the new valves and cylinder head have solved the problem. Incidentally, I also installed four, new valve springs during this engine work. The cam chain was in very good condition, and did not exhibit any elongation, as the timing marks aligned perfectly. :tup: |
Thanks for the detailed procedure. :tup:
I suspect the intake valves on my RX3 have done the same as yours.....(12.5k miles). .....the clearances went to zero within 1,000 miles. Yet, the most recent check revealed the intakes increased by .002". :hmm: Is there a way to determine if the valves have receded into the head without disassembling the engine? Most importantly, what are the options for those of us that don't have the time, skill, tools, work space, or inclination to perform the task? Has anyone had CSC successfully find them a local mechanic to perform major repairs? jb |
Great write-up Spud! Excellent and complete, as always.
I remember back in the 70's, when unleaded fuel first came out, it was eating up the valve seats and the manufacturers had to go to hardened valve seats. I wonder if this is what's happening here? Did the old valves look worn or just the seats? |
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I suggest you talk to Gerry at CSC and tell him your maintenance record of how often you did each valve lash check, and the required adjustments. As with me, he might tell you to have a leak down test performed. I bought an OTC 5609, Cylinder Leakage Tester Kit, shown in the link below. It does an excellent job, and I highly recommend it. http://www.tooltopia.com/otc-tools-5...FQsuaQodCX8J6g http://www.usatoolwarehouse.com/Merc...1/otc-5606.gif However, be forewarned. Even if your engine passes a leak down test, you still might have valve recession. My cylinder did not leak, but the valve recession was obvious from a visual inspection. Quote:
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Since the valve recession was obvious, I didn't remove any of the valves for inspection. I wanted to ship the untampered cylinder head to Gerry for his inspection. I also didn't care to do the extra work. ;) Is unleaded fuel required in China? I don't know. :shrug: If the Chinese are still using leaded fuel, you might very well be correct. ;) I remember reading somewhere that the Italian company, Piaggio, designed the NC250 engine. I suspect the Italians designed the engine for use with unleaded fuel. :shrug: I'm hoping my experience with this problem is a rare exception. However, I felt an obligation to warn others who might be experiencing the same problem. |
If you drop the engine for repairs, be sure to examine the O-ring which seals the intake manifold. Make sure this O-ring is not flattened, deformed, or torn, et cetera. Also, be sure this O-ring is installed when you tighten the intake manifold to the cylinder head.
http://i.imgur.com/xhwDOfN.jpg This O-ring is a critical component which keeps dust from entering the cylinder head. Dust entering the cylinder head from either the intake manifold or air filter will eventually cause valve recession of the intake valves. Once again, I recommend you keep your air filter well oiled, and clean. I use Belray Foam Air Filter Oil for the flat air filters in both my Zongshen motorcycles. https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p...air+filter+oil https://images.rockymountainatvmc.co...fil_oil_1l.jpg |
Here is another tip. ;)
On all my other motorcycles, I always install the piston on the connecting rod first. Then I lower the cylinder onto the piston, while compressing the piston rings. I tried using this method with the NC250 engine, and it did not work. The piston rings of the RX3 are very difficult to compress, and I actually snapped one of the piston rings as I tried to lower the cylinder onto the piston. :wtf: Therefore, I ordered another, complete set of piston rings, and used the alternative method of installing the piston into the cylinder first. ;) Here is a summary of that method. First of all, install a circlip into one side of the piston. Using this method, you will only need to wrestle with a single circlip when the cylinder is resting over the engine case. ;) Then install the new piston rings in the piston. Apply motor oil to the piston rings and the piston skirts. I also spread a little oil inside the cylinder. Turn the cylinder upside down on a workbench, and turn the piston upside down, making sure the arrow on top of the piston is facing the exhaust side of the cylinder. Using this method, it is very easy to compress each piston ring and push the piston into the bottom of the cylinder. :tup: Push the piston into the cylinder, but leave enough room at the bottom to install the piston pin later. ;) Make sure you install a new cylinder base gasket on the engine crankcase before you install the cylinder/piston assembly. Take the cylinder/piston assembly to the engine. Tilt the engine to the left, so the cylinder will not easily drop onto the engine case. Now you can install the cylinder/piston assembly over the cylinder bolts, and lower it to the proximity of the connecting rod. Apply oil to the piston pin, and insert the piston pin through the piston and the connecting rod until it bottoms on the single circlip you installed earlier. Stuff a rag around the connecting rod so you don't accidentally drop the final piston circlip inside the engine. :wtf: Install the final circlip. Now you can remove the rag surrounding the connecting rod. ;) Finally, push the piston farther into the cylinder, and lower the cylinder onto the engine. This method is very easy to perform while the engine is removed from the frame, and I might try using this method on my other bikes in the future. |
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I tried to use my borescope to no avail.....sparkplug hole too small for access. Got a better view with a LED flashlight and eyeballs. Quote:
And an asset to CSC.....you should be on the payroll.... :) However, I would wager that when buyers signed up for a "user maintained" motorcycle, they didn't think that included removing the engine, and rebuilding the top end. jb |
Spud,
Do you know what caused the scoring of the cam lobe in the photo? Quote:
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I did not notice any valve recession of the exhaust valves. Perhaps it required 16,000 miles for my exhaust valve clearances to settle because of the wear on the camshaft exhaust lobe. :shrug: http://i.imgur.com/HZRySJY.jpg |
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I'm hoping my experience with this valve recession is a rare occurrence. However, when you mentioned your valve clearances had not stabilized, I felt a moral obligation to warn you, and others, of the possibilities. I think you might be having other engine problems. I also believe you have some time left on your warranty. I suggest you contact CSC and ask them to help you resolve these issues. If you were nearby, I would certainly help you with the engine work myself. Unfortunately, you live about as far away from Idaho as possible. |
If anyone wants to purchase a Cylinder Leakage Tester Kit, I highly recommend the OTC 5609. Most leak down testers don't have a spark plug adapter which fits the 10 mm, spark plug hole of the RX3. :wtf: Also, this spark plug adapter must be small enough to fit in the narrow, spark plug hole of our RX3 motorcycles. Finally, if the hose comes off the adapter when you try to remove the spark plug adapter, you must be able to retrieve the adapter from the spark plug hole. If this last scenario occurs, you can use the spark plug wrench included with the RX3 tool bag to retrieve the adapter included with the OTC 5609 unit. :tup:
The OTC unit is well manufactured, works very well, and is sold for a very reasonable price. This tool also includes a very rugged, molded plastic case. The OTC 5609 works superbly with the RX3 motorcycle, so I highly recommend this unit. |
Here is another tip.
When removing the engine from the frame, or replacing it, it helps a lot to have an assistant. One person can jack the engine to the proper height and help stabilize the engine on the jack. The other person can twist/tilt the engine to the proper orientation for removal/installation of the swingarm bolt. ;) If you make all the preparations beforehand, you will only need your assistant's help for about 15 minutes. http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/q...pse7rqd7pr.jpg http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/q...pshf34kyh3.jpg |
5.5mm wifi scope/ cam ... (USB version just dozens yuan but needs android phone...) is good for the job
Review of the 8mm http://www.thp.com.hk/forums/thdeta....rum=1&pn=96948 |
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Now....I've never been one to believe in "Miracle in a Can", but I've been running that Lucas fuel treatment that CSC recommended for break in.....just because they recommended it for break-in. Do you think this stuff really does any good and also, have you been running it in your RX3? Here's a quote from the Lucas website. "Lucas Fuel Treatment should definitely be used in vehicles that require leaded fuel because it actually replaces the benefits of lead in gasoline...." Makes ya wonder. |
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https://www.walmart.com/ip/Lucas-Oil...ingMethod=p13n https://i5.walmartimages.com/asr/803...0&odnBg=FFFFFF Thanks for raising this issue, 2LZ. I am going to do some research on this topic, and start a new thread regarding it. I also seem to remember that HumanBeing reported the fuel in China is terrible. :ohno: If so, one would think that any possible valve face/seat defects would be causing a lot of problems for Chinese owners of the RX3. :shrug: |
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https://lucasoil.com/products/fuel-t...fuel-treatment Walmart sells the quart bottle for $8.87. This seems to be the best value. https://www.walmart.com/ip/16777813?...&wl13=&veh=sem https://i5.walmartimages.com/asr/9e4...0&odnBg=FFFFFF |
I started a thread on the Lucas Upper Cylinder Lubricant at the following link. ;)
http://www.chinariders.net/showthrea...710#post253710 |
Spud, you are one of (if not) the best technical/process writers on this site. Csc should definitely include this in their shop information if they dont already have such a chapter. I know you just did it for the community but is worthy of compensation if they wanted to use it.
I read it all and understood it (which is good since I am not an engine mechanic ) Trouble is, the more I learn, the scarier this stuff becomes :wtf: makes me wonder about purchasing something like a newly developed 450cc zong engine |
That was amazing Spud. Thank you for working so hard on this tutorial. I hope to never have to use it...but if I do, it will make things a LOT easier. Take care!
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Thanks for sharing your experience and passing on the knowledge.
Cheers, Dan K. |
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