Ported polished head
3 Attachment(s)
Bike is running good if anyone wants to know the head from powersportsmax.com was right one had decent casting and is running strong and made world difference
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Looks great , cant wait to hear what the gains equate too as far as top speed. I've been tempted to break out the dremel JerryHawk250 talked me into buying.
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Great gains all the way through the powerband. I thought lose a little low end because I ported exhaust side as big as I could go matching the crush gasket pre crushed and it has more torque way noticable from bottom all the way to redline.
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Did you leave the compression alone and just go for the port work? Quote:
The real gain is in the lower to upper mid range power, and then a little bit up top. Combined with a 30mm smooth bore carb and it REALLY wakes things up. |
I did deck the head 1mm like you and Jerry Hawk. I'm currently running the mikuni vm26 until the adapter comes in from taobao. I'm going to switch the rear sprocket to a 50 I do off road riding and hills rocky terrain and dont like the transition from 1st to second lose power and need to utalize second more efficiently. Love the torque gain with the ported head did wonders. I was riding at over 10000 feet above sea level and it ran fine just minor adjustments on trail no jet changes. Cant wait to get the nibbi on and dial that in. I met some ktm yanaha and honda guys up there who were extremely impressed when I said it was 1400 bucks and I have like another 500 in mods. I can say this is the best money spent for what the results are you csnt beat the hawk took the rocky terrain and hills no problem besides trying go to second gear while climbing but I bet the bigger rear sprocket will fix that.
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Just wait until you get that smooth bore carb on there. I was impressed with the ported head and a PZ30, but blown away by the difference with the PE30 carb on the ported head.
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Yeah the intake adapter is at the San Francisco USPS so hopefully I'll have the nibbi on by this weekend. I bought the pilot and main jet kits for it to so I'm ready!!!
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Well I can fly to about 56 to 59 and then it's a slow climb to 64 and that about it unless there is a downgrade so 5mph gain is welcome.
G2ic22 I will probably just port my stock head, Do you think if you could do it again you would go that route or is there a big benefit to the new head? I'm just crazy enough to destroy my stock head with little care as long as there is a replacement available. |
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If the budget is tight then just port the stock head. It has to come off either way lol. Since you already have the Wen rotary tool, you should just need a new gasket set, possibly a rotary burr set if you don't have one, and the time to do it, so maybe a $20 investment. If you do mess up bad enough then a new head would be about $50 if you buy the head he has Link: https://www.motopartsmax.com/index.p...ducts_id/11145 I opted to buy a different head just so I didn't have any down time. That said, if you commit to doing the work the bike would only be down a couple of days at most. I went slow and kept going back to touch up my work so it took me about 8 to 10 hours to get the results I was after. That includes all of the time I spent on the cumbustion chamber with smoothing it out and polish work. If you are after just cleaning up the ports, then it could be done in maybe 4-6 hours taking your time. If you want to "port match" the ports at all, then a new exhaust gasket is a great way to do this. I put one in and worked to the edges, leaving just a little bit of a ridge on the inside for potential crush space/expansion. On the intake side you can bolt up the intake to the head and use a small sharpie to try and mark the areas that hang into the intake path for a reference point, and then go by feel after that. Pulling the head only takes about 20-30 minutes (double that if adult refreshments are included lol), which is one big advantage of the OHV engines. No timing chain, cam, etc. to worry about. Get the plastics and tank out of the way, remove the spark plug, unbolt header and intake, set motor to TDC, remove the valve cover, remove the 3 bolts for the rocker assembly, remove the push rods, remove the 5 head nuts/bolts, remove head. |
Sounds like a a good time for a rotary tool and adult refreshments at you house Dan, That way I get it done right the first time!
I really enjoy tearing into this bike but it would be nice to have Dan the China bike Professor on hand and maybe ARH, JerryHawk and Weldangrind as a think tank for a few adds to the bike. |
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I think you have the ability to do this job right the first time. Just take your time, do small amounts of work at a time and double check it as you go. |
Welcome to da club. Nice work. :tup: Has to be one of the best mods you can do. The 30mm smooth bore carb is the icing on the cake.
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Man you guys are killing me! When does the farkling and mods ever end! Wait a minute that was the wife coming through!! :lmao:
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The head was almost identical in every way to the original hawk. I would say worth buying it casting was decent. I would say nothing better than the stock hawk head. Probably use stock hawk head but I got one in case had issues I could just put the old one back. But starting with a fresh head was n ihhce dont half to clean it up and all that. I think doing a good lapping of the valves helped along with decking the head. Seems like it's got more seal and harder to crank now and takes a minute to warm up before you can ride but might be lean on pilot jet but since I have the nibbi not going to mess with the vm26 anymore. Took it on 100 mile trip since installing head and seems to run better the more I ride it. For 64 bucks shipped with head gasket it's great price. The brand is XPro and has good reviews on products from them. |
I had porting experience on my cars heads and had all the tools already on hand. I used a mini hand drill from Ebay and some standard abrasive sanding cartridges in various grits and sizes shapes. Used my already crushed copper gasket to port match the exhaust side. Used the dremel with polishing buffs for just exhaust side with diamond rouse to smooth it up and get mirror shine. I left intake at 120 grit for fuel attomization cause you never want the intake super smooth from my experience. I really focused on the bowls and makund a smooth transition for the air to pass through the valves without so much restriction they really are hurting in the bowl area for flowing good. I then got out the digital micrometer measured up and taped some 180 grit sandpaper to a mirror and took of 1mm. Then went with 400 grit then 800 grit to smooth up the deck. Then ih went in and lapped up the valves with permatex valve grinding compound. When I tested the valves before lapping they leaked out the brake clean on both but more on the intake valve. After doing a good 3 sets of lapping per valve I put them back and no leaks!!! I let the fluid sit in for about half hour lapping was successful. All in all took a full day on the head and hour half to disassemble and hour half or so to re assemble.
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Congrats on finding another viable head that fits, yeah it is fantastic how well a porting and decking job works on these Hawks. Despite just getting a Multistrada 1200S, it is so rewarding to take the little Hawk for a spin after all I've done to it. :yay:
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