2020 Hawk DLX check engine light on
 

Hey y'all. I have a 2020 Hawk DLX that I've put around 1400 miles on. It's been a great bike so far. I went to go for a ride the other day and the check engine light would not go off and the bike was running rough. I can turn the switch on and off twice, then leave it on the third turn and the check engine light will throw a code of 0112. (The light flashes 10 times, then once, then once, then twice, pauses and repeats the code) I've messed with it for a few days and can't find the issue. It's driving me nuts, and I can't find any info specific to the hawk concerning this code. I could use some help here. I've changed the air filter, put a new NGK plug, greased all the connecters with electrical grease, cleaned the battery posts and put non corrosion grease on them and no results. Any suggestions?

That code looks like it is for the intake air temperature sensor for all motorcycles. I would almost assume that that is a fairly standard code assignment. Certainly no harm in checking that first.

Thanks. I'll check that out today.

I think it is generic OBD 2 code P0112.
Intake Air Temp circuit low. The computer is seeing a short or open in the IAT circuit.
Check wires and connectors at the IAT and at the computer. If the circuit is good replace the IAT and clear codes. If that doesn't work the only thing left is computer.
I do not know how to clear a hawk. It may be as simple as disconnecting the battery for a while. If not it may require a scanner.

Are you sure your battery is sufficient for the job? The battery that came with my Hawk DLX wouldn’t have been. Another thing make sure your fuel tank breather isn’t partially plugged. Just my thoughts 😎

Check the IAT sensor with an ohms meter for resistance. The readings should be close to the following for reference. You can heat the sensor with a hair dryer to test the ranges.

Temperature/ Resistance
100 C (212 F) 2.07 K-ohms

90 C (194 F) 2.8 K-ohms

80 C (176 F) 3.8 K-ohms

70 C (158 F) 5.4 K-ohms

60 C (140 F) 7.7 K-ohms

50 C (122 F) 11 K-ohms

40 C (104 F) 16 K-ohms

30 C (86 F) 24 K-ohms

20 C (68 F) 37 K-ohms

Thanks for the suggestions everybody. I'll see 2hat I can figure out.

It's the stock battery. It has worked so far. I might go ahead and order a better one anyway.

Before you order a battery... See what the voltage is at rest (with a voltmeter/multimeter). You might disconnect it from the bike for the test, then connect it and repeat (shouldn't change if nothing is drawing current)... It should be charged when you do this test. At least 12.5 is OK but kind of weak, maybe 13 or more should be observed across the poles. If it drives the starter and starts the bike, it isn't likely to be causing the problem.

Yeah, it cranks and drives the bike no problem.

Ahh.... Cool. Save your money for the part that (might) need replacing!
Based on the other posts and advice, you are on the right track. I didn't know you could pull codes from these bikes!

Thanks. Yeah, it's 2 key turns on/off then on the third key turn leave it in the on position.

I ordered the carbureted model specifically because it dosen't have a computer and the carb is 28 dollars. Lol

I kinda wish I would have done the same. That EFI is nice, but I hate, hate, hate messing with electrical systems. HAHA

Oh, Duh
 

Oh, I missed that. It is a EFI model. Now I see what's going on. No, my primitive, naturally aspirated bike has no code storage!

Reminds me...I have a Suzuki GSX1250FA (Bandit), and the EFI always makes me think twice about any long rides. It has never failed, has monstrous controllable torque, and gets me great Fuel economy (at least 40mpg) no matter how I drive it. But more than once I shut it down with the kill switch, then turned it back on with kill switch, and the EFI was all screwed up, stumbling...bad in traffic!
So I turn key off, turn back on, start it, and it apparently resets and works fine. Weird. So I never use the kill switch to turn it off if I am not really done with the trip! And yes, I will always use a mechanical carb on any single cylinder bike. Trouble with it... clean it up and put it back on the bike. Done.

Well, my air intake temperature sensor is bad. I can't find one anywhere online for sale. Anybody out there have a link to one for sale, or know how to get one?

Maybe a PZ30 clone carb would be the cheaper route. Oh maybe not. Should be an easy EFI to carb conversion, but what do I know. The air temp sensor must be the easier fix.

I've had good luck ordering from csc motorcycles.com but they don't sell hawks. The closest thing they sell is tt250 which is what l've been going by even though there are differences. The problem is I don't know if they make an injected tt250. But csc definitely has the best website - with parts breakdowns.

Keep in mind that although this is technically not an EFI failure (the EFI controller), the temperature sensor is a peripheral input that EFI needs to operate. So if it fails, particularly if it is a transient/periodic failure, it is a diagnostic problem. There are more than one check engine light or transient EFI failure on this site! They are electronic devices, and they do have issues.

Maybe it takes some time to learn how to tune a carburetor, but they typically do not catastrophically fail. You can get home to figure it out.

And the fuel pump is another Achilles heal for an EFI system. A carburetor works on vacuum and gravity (fuel feed), neither of with can fail.

Also, Once you become familiar with your carb settings (which jets, needle height, etc), diagnostics become routine (float bowl fill circuit, general cleaning, rejet for modification).

So EFI may be convenient when it works, but I don't think it is easier to diagnose when it fails, and it does.

Patting myself on the back for getting it first try. :D

You should read the first post of the thread. The original poster made it home. It just was running rough. Same as a carburetor. As a matter fact, my entire bikes electrical system was grounding out and I still made it home. You’re just wrong. Nobody’s been left on the side of the road by a fuel injection failure here. Many, many people have been left on the side of the road by carburetor failures.. And this wasn’t the thread that we were talking about this stuff in. In this thread, we were trying to help the OP get to the bottom of what was wrong. And he did. Very quickly. Solved in just a few posts.

Haha! You deserve that self pat on the back.

Yeah, I've looked on CSC. The TT's are carb only, but it looks like they have a AITS for sale that looks exactly like the one on my bike. I'm going to contact them and find out if it will work.

If I can't find a AITS anywhere, this may be an option.

On the EFI models you can turn the key on then off twice, then on the third turn leave the key on and the check engine light will flash a code. It wasn't an issue of diagnostics really, more of an issue of finding a new AITS.

OK. So EFI systems fail too... Just a different set of possible fails. Carb, EFI, whatever. Fuel systems just aren't perfect.

Just an update for everyone. She started throwing even more codes, so I figured I'm getting to the bottom of this. Took everything off and traced the wiring harness from front to back. Turns out right where the airbox meets the frame the the wiring harness was pinched and had a tiny worn spot. I could barely see it. 2 wires were slightly worn in half. I clipped them, reconnected them and rerouted the harness so it wouldn't happen again. She's running like a champ now.

Took me 5 hours to trace it down, but it was worth it.

Just letting anybody that's interested know, check your harness before spending money.

I think it is generic OBD 2 code P0112.

Intake Air Temp circuit low.

The computer is seeing a short or open in the IAT circuit.

Check wires and connectors at the IAT and at the computer.

If the circuit is good replace the IAT and clear codes.

If that doesn't work the only thing left is computer.

I do not know how to clear a hawk.

It may be as simple as disconnecting the battery for a while.

If not it may require a scanner.

Capacitance inside the EFI computer can retain the settings, and there might even be an EPROM that it loads from during initial "boot". To dump the capacitance and be certain it is reset, hold the power lead to the ground lead for a few seconds (while it is NOT connected to the battery or anything!). This drains any capacitance that could make the thing hold onto codes. This is a great way to reset modules that have onboard coding (EPROM) that loads a factory default instruction list when connected.

In Automotive we call that a brain dead. But it doesn't work on most systems newer than around 2000 year model.

Bump.

For the people who dis EFI, there's a reason that there are millions of vehicles on the road with EFI. They run like a charm and when they don't, you're generally not left crying on the side of the road. The ECM/ECU goes into "limp home mode" (LHM) so that the vehicle can still be driven but (in theory) won't damage the powertrain in the process.

I'm very happy that I came across this thread. My CEL/MIL came on today and prior to this thread (and the one by SpudRider) I had no idea of how to proceed. Thank you (most of you) for helping the OP (DoomHead) move to solution so quickly. In my case it was as simple as reseating the connector where the harness plugs into the fuel pump. Which I disconnected last week for some reason. Which explaines why the CEL flashed a Morse-code of P0230 0-:

IMO this was the worst type of technical problem: operator error. Doh!

BTW, SpudRider did a great writeup of the Delphi EFI system. Curious that he wrote it back in 2015. I thought that my 2021 X-Pro DLX EFI was all "new" tech.

Spud's thread:
https://chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=15675