Zongshen RX3 carbureted version mods & repairs
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Hi, this thread is for all members to discuss about the technical aspects of the carbureted version of the zong rx3. Be it the engine, how the card work, how to meddle with the carb.... And many more. Here are a few photos of the engine from the carburetor version of the bike. Minbe is a KTN RS3(Malaysian version)
Attachment 2347 Attachment 2348 Attachment 2349 Attachment 2350 The lever for spare gas Attachment 2351 |
Tried looking for te screw to the pilot jet just but cannot determine which was it..... Any idea from the engine pics
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I can't see it. It might be under the carb, similar to a Mikuni or Keihin round slide.
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I looked through a few pages at Taobao, but I didn't spot a carb. If you could find one cheap enough, you could experiment with it and leave your stock carb alone.
Can you use a mirror and get a picture of the underside of the carb? |
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http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/q...pskdjn6ym4.jpg |
Check for a brass cap, or a screw at this location.
http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/q...psumecno3n.jpg |
Way to go, eagle eye! :D
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Seems to be the same as a replacement carb that's being used on the Yamaha YFM 400. ( I think its some kind of quad bike )
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...4J2RKK6ZBHA4FT if this is the same as yours then this exploded carb diagram maybe of use http://www.yamahapartshouse.com/oemp...9a4/carburetor :) |
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http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/q...psbhyc1t3u.jpg |
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So I should be sticking the screwdriver into this hole shown in the yellow arrow. Attachment 2354 |
Yes. Turn that out. Maybe a 1/2 turn.
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You do adjust the PMS with a small screwdriver. You first need to discover the present setting of the PMS. To do so, slowly tighten the PMS, counting the number of quarter turns until it lightly touches bottom. Don't overtighten the PMS. :ohno: You merely want to count the number of turns until it lightly touches bottom. For example, you might need to turn the PMS 2-1/4 turns until it lightly touches bottom. After you record the number of turns needed, loosen the PMS counter-clockwise until you return it to the initial position. Report back, and I will tell you next step. ;) |
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Have not verified if there's a screw in there.
At work now. Will need to get back then I can take a look at it. |
Finding a way to turn that screw (if equipped) is the challenge. I use a tiny hex ratchet with a flat head screwdriver bit.
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i guessed so. the space available is close to none.....haha.....went out just now and experienced the same thing again. Was at the traffic light, in 1st gear, clutch fully pressed...engine died while idling and took a few attempts to start it back.
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http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/q...psszkzqrrt.jpg |
Hi, I own a KTN RS3 too. I am from Penang, Malaysia. I am having problem for both engine cold start and restart after engine is warmed up. The engine died after engaging the first gear even though the clutch lever is fully pressed. My current RPM setting is around 1.8k to 2k. I think it is too high. and I often smell fuel from the exhaust. I will send my bike back to tuning this Saturday since it is still under warranty.
If you would like to tune the carb by yourself, make sure that you do it after the engine is warmed up. Cheers |
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Your problems also sound as if they might be caused by an improper adjustment of the pilot mixture screw (PMS). Indeed, the PMS should be adjusted when the engine is hot. I emphasize, the engine must be hot, not warm. ;) After your problem is resolved, please let us know how it was fixed. :) |
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X2. :) If you have time, please post a thread in our Introduce Yourself forum, and include photographs of your KTN RS3. We love to view photos from different parts of our world. :tup:
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Not sure am I doing this right. I haven't posted in forum for a long long time. Please let me know if you all can view it. I have changed the top box to bigger box. The rest remain the same as the rest of the world. ;) |
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Where did you get your bike. looks like the idling thing is a common prob for new bikes. What box did you get? am looking for one also coz the current one is just a bit too small. |
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http://www.chinariders.net/forumdisplay.php?f=112 |
Confirmed there's a brass screw under that carb and it should be the PMS screw.
Problem now is getting there is a pain. Space is so small. Cant even get the smallest screwdriver in there let alone my hand or fingers. And with the hot engine right in front...... Unless you have an angled screwdriver or the long flexible ones.... Guess i need to send it to the shop to do it. |
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http://www.cabletiesandmore.com/imag...illips-top.jpg If that doesn't work, can you loosen the metal bands on each side of the carburetor, and rotate the carburetor so the bottom faces you? If so, you can adjust the PMS, and then rotate the carburetor back into a vertical position. Just make sure to tighten the metal bands again after you finish. ;) |
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I keen to learn from them as I might need those skills when I go around peninsula Malaysia one day with my RS3. |
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I use:
A flexible screwdriver Its shaft is "wire" and can bend almost 90 degrees, so turn handle horizontal plane, but tip is vertical (or very close to it:). You can chang to whatever kind of bit you need also, on the driver end. Very handy. They make a flex bit for drills also, you can use if you have one already.
The idea Spud suggested works well also, ie loosen the bands on the manifold, rotate carb, then adjust screw, and rotate carb back to vertical before testing. IT MAY run very rich, if the bowl dumps fuel into intake tract for a minute or so (or be flooded/hard to start for a few minutes). There is a CHANCE the floats on both carbs are too high, and dumping fuel when starting out and or braking or tilting the bike from side to side at a stop. Try that (tilting the bike) and see if it stalls. Thats the way to find out re floats (one way w/o dissaasembly of carb). If its floats, I can explain setting them for you as well. (Spud may have this covered already in his thread...) |
FTEY. My RS3 has been behaving good today. There are a few thing that I have change during my riding.
1) gear shifting behavior. I shift to higher gear after about 1/2 second after engaging the clutch. When shifting to low gear, I will rev the engine before shifting. I just gave a short rev to around 4000 RPM. 2) when engaging to first gear from neutral at stop light. I rev before engaging first gear. 3) engaging neutral. Short revving the engine, it should be easier to get neutral. 4) starting the engine from cold or hot. Switch off all lights. Turn the accelerator around 5 to 10 mm from its initial position and wait for 2 to 3 seconds then start the engine. I manage to start on 2nd attempt. The free play of the accelerator does not count. These were what I have discovered so far. But I managed to reach home safely without having a dead engine in the middle of the road.:clap: |
It sounds like you're really getting to know your bike. :D
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I agree. :tup:
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