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X-Pect Backroad Development
I chose this bike for the backroad for two reasons:
1) It has the lowest seat height in the class (closer to the ground for those that need or prefer it) 2) EFI (altitude compensating) Pictures are worth a thousand words, but until you see it in person somehow you cannot get the total end result. It is clear right away, the quality of assembly and parts is definitely a level or two above the HAWK, Magician, TBR7, Hellcat and like. I mean there is grease protruding from the swingarm. The bolts are all marked with a magic marker suggesting some torqueing may have been applied. It shares many design principles and execution with the HAWK. How the seat looks and works, the frame design, the way the airbox wraps around the shock, the rear swingarm, the diameter of the forks is the same but shorter, the tail piece and light, the head light. When you take the side covers off you get a direct look at the EFI system and it looks intimidating, rocket science to me, all woven in to fit, but superbly done as far as routing. The fit and finish on the plastic is excellent. It really comes across to me as more a Super Motard street machine. It gives the impression of a lowered HAWK and figures show it is 10 inches less in height than a HAWK with about the same wheel base. Sometime I will have to compare the ground clearance. The slightly lowered center of gravity and wheel size should make for quick maneuvering. As far as the backroad, the EFI is what is, and nothing should or will be changed there. The owner’s manual is pretty good and describes procedures, the EFI, and fault codes. On the very back pages it shows an HMC Emission Control System Warranty Statement “Your Warranty Rights and Obligations” detailing an agreement between the EPA and American Lifan warranting the system for 11,185 miles or 5 years from initial date of delivery. Isn’t everything EFI related to emissions? Further down you see “Your emission control system may include components such as the carburetor or fuel-injection system”. As much as one side of me resists, I will take apart the suspension, steering, and drive train and have a look. I will also check the valves and make a few modifications and begin to learn the bike layout. On a bike you need to depend on, it is necessary to confirm there are no obvious issues and also gain the knowledge of how the bike works. Knowledge that maybe needed later. The story is all about getting the backroad performance and the story begins. https://i.ibb.co/xhvmPLm/IMG-20211113-110548968-HDR.jpg |
Very nice bike! Should give you years of trouble free service.
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Looking forward to your project with great interest! :tup:
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The expect looks like a great match for you. Doing your research pays off.
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Got the pretty off and it looks like a Chopper underneath! I need to put an H-4 LED headlight bulb on the Xmas list. Highly recommend it, spend the money, the safety improvement (visibility to other drivers) is BIG!
There is an issue in the rear fender well. The rear lighting, tail light, turn signal wiring is routed through the fender well leaving it exposed to water, dirt, rocks. They put a rubber bag around it but not good. I saw u tube video once about a trail ride where such wiring gave out on the trail. You would never know it and no one would see your brake light. I have seen this before I think on the Magician or maybe it was the HAWK. Generally it is mostly routed in the tray below the seat but the Xpect has the battery located there. Also some big gaps on the side, one right below the ECU (a place I don't want to get water or anything else) so sometime need to revisit the issue. The one pix shows the location of the ECU. https://i.ibb.co/mvh2wVF/Xpect-naked-with-ECU.jpg https://i.ibb.co/G7FWkN4/X-pect-rear-wiring.jpg |
Gas tank axle grease valve covers
I really did not want to make a mechanical review but seems like a good idea to take a few photos as I go for reference for others and myself!
The gas tank looks like this so you know what you need to disconnect. So you guys out there that need to check your valves, (you know who you are) here you go ha, ha, (just makin some fun). https://i.ibb.co/R3g73SS/Gas-tank-layout.jpg picture upload The tank has some rust starting around the sending unit and also on the seams. https://i.ibb.co/BrdJTLV/IMG-20211114-095806448-HDR.jpg Shots of the left and right side showing valve access and the plug wire laying on top of the valve cover (stuff like this needs fixing) https://i.ibb.co/WcHPQ0t/Left-side.jpg https://i.ibb.co/HVgY2Gh/Valve-Spark-plug-wire.jpg image to url Lastly a shot of the grease around the speedo sending unit and the wheel bearing. To protect that bearing from water I will pack grease all around it sealing it and I may take a look inside. The bearings look to be the same manufacturer as the HAWK etc. Tempting to think about new bearings, my HAWK rolls so good with ALL BALLS. And the front axle uses an off size nut 18 MM with 15 mm bolt so I have to find an open end or something for road tool kit. Enough story telling I got to get some work done. https://i.ibb.co/1GSrgXv/IMG-20211114-110544228-HDR.jpg host images |
Pics are fantastic. This kind of stuff is a real blessing to future owners
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Headstock Stem forks
This is how I started with the China Bikes and I am little OCD, it has to be right, so I don't know any other way than to break it down and build it back. I agree, the info will be useful to someone, myself too. The forensic analysis will continue.
I got the head stem apart and the good news is it uses tapered bearings. The bad news is they didn't put much grease on them. This is the 4th China Bike I have taken apart and they all look like this with some worse. There must be a bonus at the end of the month on the production line if you don't use all your grease allotment! I tapped it for grease zerts, greased the bearings and put it back together. Turns better. I will pump it full of grease later. https://i.ibb.co/0XtT9tG/Head-stem-grease.jpg https://i.ibb.co/Th4xDYR/Head-stock-top.jpg I took 160 ml of fork oil out of each fork. It was very clear, clean, with a tint of brown and sometimes in the light you could see a blue/purple sheen just like the Maxima. There also appeared to be no difference between the viscosity and other characteristics from the Maxima. I replaced it with 160 ml of Maxima 15W. If I need to, I can add more later. https://i.ibb.co/kHhg548/IMG-20211114-181030932-HDR.jpg virginia seaport crossword |
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BTW…. You’d be surprised how many Japanese bikes arrived absolutely bone dry…. Kawasaki was the worst. Of the 18 KX bikes we had, only 2 arrived with a tiny bit of grease on the bearings. So, its not just China bikes that skimp on grease! |
Holy crap. We are all very different. When mine arrived, I rode it. Even though I had the throttle wound backwards and had to rotate it forward to accelerate. Ha ha ha.
I think I’d actually die if I did all this before riding it. But I’m super thankful to you for this thread. It’s helping me to get to know the inside of the xpect without having to suffer to see it. That gas tank rust is pretty concerning. Mine has been rusting a bit in spots because it just spent the past 7 months on the front of an RV continuously traveling. It took a hit but the rewards were amazing. How many people dream of ADV riding in the Colorado Rockies? I got to do that all summer. It was worth the rust. |
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This should be a sticky. See if Jerryhawk can do that for this thread. Lots of valuable information here regarding the X-Pect.
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Thank you Culcune, Jerry, and all! I will have to talk to the team about stepping their game up!
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I see that this thread has been promoted to well-deserved stickyhood. :tup:
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The weekend is here and that means motorcycle mechanics. The team got to feeling an obligation these past few days after I blew up the Xpect community with those pix of the stem bearing grease so they asked if I would do a post and I said of course.
I, the team, are not great mechanics, expert, just guys that have been turning a wrench a la backyard mechanic for years and starting working on these China bikes couple years ago, I mean you have to right? I'm not trying to teach anyone the best or proper way to do things, just show you what I do. This post is not for the many experienced mechanics on this forum but for those guys with limited experience trying to do some work on their X pect. The tools you need. The hooked wrench is a shock preload adjusting wrench I got off amazon for my HAWK when I started and has done the job on a number of bikes and you can use it for shock preload too. https://i.ibb.co/1JgBJq6/IMG-20211120-085631298-HDR.jpg First thing you take off the headlight housing with four bolts and disconnect the headlamp plug. This first pix shows a front picture of the instrument mounting bracket and how it attaches, the cage fitting at the bottom into rubber grommets which is common for many bikes. Two bolts holding it in the upper top right. https://i.ibb.co/k1T90rb/Front-view-LI-arrows.jpg Need to loosen those two bracket bolts and use some of that plastic wire you got to wire it out of the way. The handle bars need to come off and just pull them back to rest on the frame with some padding. You need to loosen the 30mm nut holding the top fork plate. (Easier if you do this before removing the forks as someone can hold it or use an impact wrench). The bolts on my bike were pretty tight, especially those small 6mm holding that speedo bracket so be prepared. I used the impact wrench. Pull top plate off. https://i.ibb.co/CvzmhLP/Stem-nut.jpg Below we find the bearing collar. Use the spanner to loosen it and remove it and out comes the bottom fork plate be ready. https://i.ibb.co/xqzrtc4/hook-wrench.jpg I clean um, re-grease um, and put it back together. Tighten down the spanner nut with the hook wrench while moving the stem back and forth, side to side until you feel good resistance to turning side to side, meaning you have tightened (preloaded) up the bearings. Back the spanner completely off. Retighten it this time while moving it side to side until there is no play in the stem up or down any way (no looseness) but it turns freely. Put the top plate back on and bolt and torque it after you have put the forks back on and set up the front suspension. If you pack these with good grease and don't swim them a lot probably will last maybe as long as the bike. Rather than this, you could drill and tap the stem for a ZERT as explained in other posts. Then pump grease in it until the seals on the end bulge or grease shows confirming you have grease to the bearings. The headllight, stem, wiring is layed out in an easily workable fashion compared to others. Try looking at the rats nest behind a HAWK sometime. My conscience is now clear. 11/25/2021 This video does a better job explaining it all. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gWWVi40GQs0 |
Pix Pictures full resolution
If you can't tell by now, I do like pictures to tell the story! The pictures in this post are all uploaded by way of imgbb. A neat function of this upload is the ability to right click on the picture which will load in another window with plus + sign cursor. If you click again it will give full resolution and zoom allowing for viewing greater detail. Useful!
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Front wheel axle brake rotor Fork
Need to finish up a few things on the front wheel. They call these bearings "sealed" but using a utility knife you can get under the cover and pop out the side plate revealing the bearings and grease and it was so done for inspection.
TIP: Use zoom function to get a close look at those bearings. https://i.ibb.co/2SH0C8f/Wheel-bearing-grease-pix.jpg https://i.ibb.co/YysmhhC/Wheel-bearing-cover.jpg Those ball bearings turn something like 2666 RPM on a bike with 3 to 1 gearing at 8000 rpm? I once pried the side off an ALL BALLS bearing before putting it on my HAWK and it was filled with blue grease which looked similar to this one in consistency and amount. I researched it, The ALL BALLS are filled with a CHEVRON special wheel bearing grease. The other side has a seal and rather than damage that seal in taking it out I opt to gamble and assume it looks like this one. Both turn okay, call it good. Both front bearings are labeled: 6301 2RS/X1 The front axle bolt is 12mm in diameter with a length of 8.75 inches The front brake rotor measures 10 1/2 inch in diameter. I will leave it to those with a need to know to convert it to MM. It is 4mm thick. https://i.ibb.co/bbxwXtq/IMG-20211120-105946857-HDR.jpg I put a tape on the HAWK and found out the X pect front forks are for all purposes of the same dimensions 35 inches long, top leg diameter 31mm, bottom leg diameter at the seal HAWK 52mm, Xpect 50mm, bottom furthest diameter near axle 40mm. Although of the same dimensions the Xpect fork has a part number inscribed and they do look to be of better quality especially the seals. https://i.ibb.co/16qWd2C/Fork-part-number.jpg |
Is the greatest thread ever. On possibly any forum.
Nothing like seeing your bike completely taken apart and gone through without having to do it. Lol fantastic. |
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Great stuff my friend, would be cool to have you as a neighbor! The way you work on bikes is the CORRECT way….. Some may claim it’s overkill, I say they’re wrong. It’s really nice to see someone give a damn, and take the extra time for not only your own peace of mind, but to share it as well for others safety and general knowledge. Fantastic thread, the way you are doing this is sadly becoming a lost art. Most folks just don’t give 2 shits anymore……. Kudos to you!
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Not only the best technical thread, but the best jokes around too?? Nah. I just arrived to Florida, where the weather is nice to ride. I’m continuing my theme of zero work on the bike. Checking tire pressure, chain tension and reviving the flat battery I probably still have from not riding the bike enough the last couple months. Then doing some state forest rides. I might follow along on the rear end stuff when you get there. Tempted to improve the suspension back there. Forks seem adequate to me so far. Love the thread though. Like I took an x-ray of the bike. Looks like I will have to get around to greasing some things pretty soon though. You did a good job with that. |
Well I guess there is that award category, claim to fame, "I did the least work on my China Bike and it lasted this .........long! Ha, Ha You picked a good candidate for the title, I don't see many weak areas. Say Yet!
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There are Givers and Takers on the forum. Some guys will come on just to get their need taken care of and not so much a thumbs up for some ones time they put in to solve their problem and they are gone. Then there are guys who contribute thoughts, pictures, ideas, and wisdom and that is what fuels new innovation and carries us all further along. I'm not saying that everyone should or can be a great contributor or needs to be, because a real payoff is helping others do better, and the small conversations, just one answer to a problem is a also great contribution, even bringing a problem up stimulates thought, but when I see someone put work into bringing their ideas to the forum with pix and such I am all in with the thumbs up because it does take some extra dedication and work! As a forum, we can go places with knowledge that we can never go individually, and that is the value and beauty of it. I am honored that I can contribute something of value to others. CG strong, ride Hard! |
Following the sequence the team is accustomed to the rear axle is next, and they got some work getting some good shots!
The rear axle is 11.5 inches long with a diameter of 15 mm. The bolt head is 15 mm and nut 21 mm so here we go again I need to find a lightweight wrench of 21 mm. The standard one from my box end is big and looks to weigh a lb. So to take the axles off front and back you need a 15mm, 18mm, and 21 mm. The axle adjusting spacing hardware seems massive compared to the HAWK and should handle any necessary torque placed upon it. Let me say I am not trying to disparage the HAWK, it is just a good comparison reference for me. https://i.ibb.co/0mPprPm/Rear-axle-1.jpg The sprocket is 46 teeth and is attached to part of the cush bearing interface with its own bearing. PIX shows sprocket side and backside. The bearing is BUC 6204 RS https://i.ibb.co/zN2d9vb/Sprocket-bearing-2.jpg https://i.ibb.co/9qz2D1m/sprocket-be...backside-3.jpg The hub and brake drum contain the cush bearing (rubber fits to hub) with bearing CXCL 6202 2RS/X1 The cush bearing absorbs that initial shock from the drive chain when you pop those wheelers I believe, but any expert can chime in whom knows more about it. https://i.ibb.co/jDNDgcH/Cush-bearing-4.jpg The hub is aluminum with a steel insert for the brakes shoes to ride against. The diameter of the Hub on this bike measured at 129.46 mm. We can see stamped inside the hub is a maximum diameter of 131 mm. So when wear exceeds this number it should be replaced. The brake drum side of the hub uses bearing CXCL 6302 2RS/X1 https://i.ibb.co/cLYc2vX/Brake-drum-5.jpg The brake shoes are held in place with springs keeping them against the lever top and pin bottom. The diameter of the installed shoes measured 128.80 mm. https://i.ibb.co/CtgvPSW/Brake-shoes-6.jpg Braking force is applied mechanical by linkage and you can see in the PIX a rod rotates that rounded square side lever against the brake shoes forcing them out against the drum. Looks like they have put some grease on the actuator which is likely high temp. A sign of quality manufacture and quality control. https://i.ibb.co/84vd2hD/Brake-actuator-7.jpg Outside PIX of the brake lever and rod https://i.ibb.co/7Xt6wWK/Brake-outside-lever-8.jpg download instagram fotos Front drive sprocket 15 tooth held in place with retaining clip and bolts. https://i.ibb.co/2cdjwwb/IMG-20211121-110427485-HDR.jpg The stock chain is 428 with 128 links. With prior bikes I would always oil up the stock chain and drive it for awhile, eventually switching over to an O ring or X ring. I have finally learned there is no cost savings in messing with it when considering my time, and I have ordered a new X ring chain to install from the get go. On the backroad they just work better IMO. https://i.ibb.co/7YJgLzn/Xpect-chain-9.jpg Thoughts: The team was a little surprised to see there are no grease seals to protect any of these bearings. I have never worked on a motorcycle drum brake for reference but it would appear this likely a well established lay out. Maybe somebody with experience can comment. The other thing you wonder about is why not upgrade to a rear disc brake. The only thing I can figure is this model was EPA approved and any modification requires more money/ approval. As we have seen, a small cover protects those bearings and I would not trust that to provide to much water protection. I ordered some waterproof grease with a high temp point and will put a light coat on the outside of the bearings and the axle to add some more protection, understanding that grease attracts dirt. These brakes generate heat and you don't want to put some cheap grease on that will melt and run down on your brake shoes and drum. If you soak it in the river, may require some maintenance. Brake drums have been used on cars and motorcycles a long time so I don't anticipate any issues. The story is caught up, time to turn some wrenches this PM. |
Is it possible that there is differences in bearings? A thought here why do we want too repair something that doesn't need to be, or is it I'm bored? Some bearings swivel, such as shock absorber bolts, fork steering bolt...are we wanting to ride or repair something that's not needed? I'm thinking that the wheel bearings are a bit different, hence as of design there sealed. These bikes shouldn't be rebuilt, but enjoyed! I'm not going too disassemble my Hawk DLX and repair from boredom...just going to use the bike...and not as a cross country vehicle! Different stokes for different folks...right? Great thread if your new to bikes, but I was new to bikes in the early 60's...just my thoughts you guys:tup:
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I think it is a great thing that this bike is being gone through with such attention to detail. I am gradually working out the details on mine a little bit a time, so it is great to have all of these photos to reference for things I haven’t touched or thought of yet. Thanks for posting.
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The numbers I have highlighted in the above posts are the bearing industry trade sizes. Bearing sizes are mostly standardized, so if you have the size and know what kind of seals you want, finding replacements is easy. As an example, take the front wheel bearings: Quote:
2RS indicates the seal type. 2 Rubber Seals. So these bearings are sealed on both sides. So if I wanted bearings that would fit the front wheel of my X-Pect, I could go to Amazon, eBay or many other places and simply search for "6301 bearing" and look for my favorite brands like NSK, SKF, Timken, etc. Look for one with seals on both sides. Often the sellers will add "2RS" to the title because that's a common designation, but different bearing companies designate sealed bearings in different ways. In an application like this, I would definitely stick to a high-quality, brand-name bearing. Common sizes like these are not very expensive. You can also check the bearing manufacturer websites for specs about the bearings to make sure they're appropriate for this type of application. I've found it's often cheap and easy to find replacements bearings for things like automotive pulleys, power tools and electric motors. |
Good stuff on those bearings, I am all in on the smooth rolling!
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Xpect Swing Arm Shock
The question is, "Why do you break down and rebuild these bikes?" The answer, at the minimum, is to identify problems such as the following and correct them.
These are pictures of the swing arm attachment pivot point and bearings, left then right. https://i.ibb.co/bzzNvzB/Left-side-s...-bearing-1.jpg https://i.ibb.co/qF0st2P/Right-side-swing-arm-bear.jpg The swing arm spacer https://i.ibb.co/QjWr1tp/Spacer-1.jpg https://i.ibb.co/PWVn3Dy/Spacer-2.jpg The seals https://i.ibb.co/RcD7nTW/Swingarm-seals-6.jpg The Swing arm pivot and all components. The distance between the frame mounting points is 8 and 7/16 inch. The swing arm tub bolt attachment section is 8 and 3/16 inch wide. The bearing diameter is 20 mm. The spacer/bolt tube is 8 1/4 inch with an outside diameter of 19.84mm. The inside diameter is 14.13mm. The Swing arm bolt is 10.5 inches long and 14 mm in diameter (odd size) The bolt head is 18 mm and nut 21 mm. Popular sizes on this bike. https://i.ibb.co/3pxz425/IMG-20211121-163804119-HDR.jpg The shock is 12 inches center of bolt to center of bolt. The coil diameter is 13.33 MM and about 77mm at the widest point. The bolt is 3 1/8 inch long with a diameter of 12mm, with a 15mm bolt head and 18mm nut. There is a part number. https://i.ibb.co/VVLTP9d/Rear-shock-7.jpg https://i.ibb.co/Syg2Bt8/Shock-part-number-8.jpg The Chain guard is well designed with good rubber. Hawk owners, you see anything different about this design?.............Notice where the guide rib starts in line with the chain movement. So the easy fix for the HAWK chainguard? Cut off the errant rib section so it aligns like this one. I had to throw the HAWK owners that something from the Xpect. https://i.ibb.co/MgKcXTJ/Chain-Guard.jpg Another observation. Look at the detail on that chain guard! Collets that fit in the plastic for the bolt to mount! https://i.ibb.co/X5QxkJG/IMG-20211121-151620034-HDR.jpg instagram bookmarklet Discussion: No grease whatsoever inside the swing arm, the bolt, the bearings, or the outside of the spacing tube! Looks like it was put on the seals and maybe the bolt threads for torque. When I took the spacer out of the swing arm it sounded like sand falling back into the tube. All the rust seems to be from the spacer. The design of the swing arm attachment point, bearings, bolt tube, and gaskets is very good. If you look at the bearings they have dimples in the bearing surface all around where grease can be caught and retained for lubrication and they are removable. The seals are good and it was torqued in there tight so I wonder if and when water could get past those seals? but I wouldn't want to find out if it did. Takes little to imagine what this would be in a year or two. The design is the best I have seen on a China bike but it was POORLY executed. Few things 1) This bike was manufactured in 05/2021 so it didn't have much time to sit around and get like this. In fact, I have seen no rust anyplace other than the gas tank and the swing arm spacer so that tells me those parts sat in a poor environment for months or years until they were put into production. 2) Any alarmed Xpect owners, we don't know that your bike looks like this or has a problem or that this is common. This issue could be just to this bike, to this day of production, month, etc. I always planned to drill and tap the swing arm for a ZERT and that will happen next weekend. |
Break down bottoms out
https://i.ibb.co/Wp2B1w2/Rock-bottom-build.jpg
I may snoop around and investigate this or that yet, but this is the beginning of the path to building a better bike, hardened for the back road! Some people just might like this better than riding? There is a deep satisfaction in improving a bike to a higher state of performance, and no motorcycle will give you more riding pleasure than one done by your own hands. Despite all the fun, the CR27 Team only wants to do this break down one time. Take the time to do it right. We now have the best access to all areas of the bike so if you have plans to change something that is hard to get at now is the time. Like that wiring I want to fix, easiest to do now rather than later. Suggestions: Read through Megadan’s HAWK 250 Resource guide because of the knowledge to be gained about bikes, parts, and processes. Checking bolts for tightness, adding thread locker to removed bolts (Loctite 243 highly recommended, consider the big bottle, cheapest in the long run.) Checking connections and sealing all general electrical connections with dielectric grease (insulates the connection preventing corrosion from water), except the EFI connections which appear to use waterproof connectors (I would check them to be sure connected good). The one I took apart already had dielectric grease so I believe it better to leave them undisturbed but everything else, the lights, ignition, battery connections so on would be good. Go over all areas of the bike and check for issues, wires that may rub, hoses rubbing, bolts loose, how are things routed. Can something be improved? Any damage or frame issues? Get several sizes of zip ties, great for tying/fixing stuff, and you can put some in your road kit. Take the air filter out and check the air box make sure all is good Checking the valve clearance pre start up and adjust if needed. Look at all the cable routing and correct if needed. Checking/tightening spokes Comment: You just got a new bike and you are going to ride it not work on it. I get it. Consider then you could do a little bit of both, and take a weekend here and there to get some things done. If you are one that sees no purpose in doing this kind of work, that’s okay too, ride the bike, enjoy it, but when I see you stopped on the backroad, have the courtesy to pull it over out of the good line, because the CR27 Team is coming through, CG strong, riding hard! Ha, Hah ! |
Ha ha ha ha ha. My ears are burning.
(Along with my wiring) |
Swingarm Grease Zert and rebuild
Tapping the Headstock and the swing arm I first saw in a post by JerryHawk250. I like to be able to pump grease in for maintenance and as back up for water dunking. It does take some mechanical skill and special tools. You can also just take the swing arm apart, clean it, and repack with grease.
I marked the location of the grease zert when the bike was still sitting on its wheels. That way I could angle it best for using a grease gun. https://i.ibb.co/qxZ6rS2/Pix1Z.jpg A special tapping wrench to hold the tap helps much in this tight space. TIP: Get a tap and die set from Harbor Freight or just buy the handle tool. For years I did it with a small crescent wrench. https://i.ibb.co/fnKLQyd/Tapping-swing-arm-2-Z.jpg anger smileys The thickness of the swing arm and the bearings on the end is about 5mm plus a little. The spacer/bolt tube rides on the bearings on the end. There is a small space, 2 mm so (thickness of the bearing that exists between the spacer and the swing arm where grease can reside and also be pumped out to the bearings on each end. The ZERT is tapped only through the swing arm itself so it can put grease in the space between. A standard ZERT may work but it may hit the tube or puts the end right against the spacer. I took a file and filed off several MM to gain space for the grease to enter, but before I filed it I put grease in the end of the ZERT to keep filings for dropping inside. This pix shows a shortened 45-degree angle ZERT. I cut off a straight one with a hack saw and you see what happens. https://i.ibb.co/8d4dtvQ/Shortened-Zert-3-Z.jpg The spacer/bolt tube cleaned up but still bears the scars from the rust. I used some 400 and 600 grit sand paper to clean it up. I only want to reduce the diameter of the tube as little as possible to keep the best fit. The tube rides on the ¾ inch wide bearings on the ends. The pitting is just another place for grease to reside. https://i.ibb.co/RyxJqKD/Spacer-pitted-4-Z.jpg One issue I had to resolve was how to get grease to the inside of the spacer/bolt tube around it and the swing arm bolt because it needs lubrication too. I decided to drill four ¼ inch holes in the spacer, two on each side of the ZERT to see if I can get some grease to pump into the bolt cavity. The spacer fits pretty tight with just a little play. Looking at it today, I may put another hole right in front of that grease ZERT. When I grease it, I will first grease everything by hand, especially the bolt and inside the spacer/bolt tube. Then pump grease in to take up any air space. https://i.ibb.co/QQtDMC4/Spacer-mods-5-Z.jpg The swing arm tapped. Needs a quarter turn (and some thread locker) and I will do that when I do final installation. https://i.ibb.co/ygf6sPL/Swing-Arm-tapped-6-Z.jpg I updated the above post on the swing arm to include the specifications for the spacer/bolt tube. Re-installation is pending some other rear end work. I am glad I got this swing arm issue straightened out! Trivia: What inexpensive Chinese motorcycle comes from the factory tapped with a swing arm ZERT? If you know the answer post it up! |
X Pect Tail Light wiring fix
Improving the routing of the taillights was on my “to do” list and yesterday I corrected that issue by routing it through the battery tray. It is tight but workable.
After removing the battery box disconnect the wires being sure to remember where they go or draw a diagram or mark them. https://i.ibb.co/RDK205Y/Wiring-removal-1.jpg Drill two 3/8-inch holes in the back of the battery box tray. Gently work the wiring harness back and out and pull it over the top. Route the wires coming from the taillights through the holes in the battery box. https://i.ibb.co/5G2SfXd/Battery-box...ing-2-hole.jpg Reconnect the wires and I like to seal the entry with silicone. You will need to work it all around to fit together well. https://i.ibb.co/JcZ73Bf/Wiring-siliconed-3.jpg free image sharing This ones for you Boatguy! That other object in that box is the main fuse panel and it uses blade type fuses with two spares and a couple of extra slots nice! The other device is a signal flasher. https://i.ibb.co/hd5wQgN/Main-Relay-fuse-4-resize.jpg |
That little thing is the main fuse panel. Amazing. I’m glad you dug that up in this process. I’m sure I have some things blown there.
I was thinking. You should train a few people and provide this as a service. I wonder what it might cost? I sure would’ve been interested in buying this service. I know you should know everything yourself. But I’m a boat guy. I know boats inside and out like you know this motorcycle inside and out. That’s my area. I understand engines, wiring, and all of that, but you have looked ahead many steps in the chess game to see what problems might happen in the future. That’s a whole different level. That’s much better than fixing something when it breaks. Which is the route I’m on with motorcycles. |
I have worked on a few boat motors and you can have it! Motorcycles are easy in comparison.
A China bike is inexpensive, I think it was Megadan said "for a reason" and if you want it dependable and reliable you are going to have to make it so. I just want to head off problems if I can and get the bike in the best mechanical shape possible because when I get it broken in I am going to ride it hard! I will say the X-pect from what I have seen has a pretty good out of box record of dependability or I would have never bought it, but it is still an inexpensive China bike and not free of issues. |
X-Pect wiring short, cable routing, electrical connectors
There have been several cases of wiring shorts in the steering neck area related to movement of the steering column. The Plastic Conduit cover on the wiring loom ends right at the neck. Several X-Pect owners have had shorts in the wiring as a result of wires rubbing in this area. In at least one case wires extended out past the conduit rubbed on the headlight/instrument mounting bracket until they caused a short. For overall reliability, let alone Backroad reliability, a review of the wiring routing in the headstock area needs to be completed and any rubbing areas corrected with protective conduit or consider re-routing. This is a time to look at all the cable and wiring routing to see if there are potential issues or if cables need to be re-routed to avoid problems or increase efficiency.
https://i.ibb.co/G7rsLxq/Wiring-rub.jpg https://i.ibb.co/pzjdHyk/Conduit-repair.jpg Pix of front brake line routing causing wiring to contact bracket. Not a simple fix, requires the brake line to be disconnected and then brakes bled, but it is best done during Backroad rebuild when you can change out the fluid too. https://i.ibb.co/NV5B0R6/Brake-line-routing.jpg ELECTRICAL Connectors There are two standard (non EFI) connector types, a multi pin and single bullet connectors. The multi pin use a hook through a slot to lock it in and some are very tight requiring using a flat tip screw driver to push down the locking notch and through the slot while also wiggling the connector. DO NOT pull on the wires whatever you do, just the connector. If you pull on the wires you risk disconnecting the wire or damaging it and you will have no connection. Better to leave it be than damage it! The bullet connectors are also very tight and I used two needle nose pliers to grab each connector at the back (not the wires) to pull them apart. The EFI connectors look different than the Multi pin and also have a seal around the wire where it goes in the back of the connector and they are located mostly next to EFI components. If in doubt, I would leave it alone. Although it has a pin type release fastener the instrument cluster connector is sealed where it enters the unit. There are two multi pin-connectors in the wires just before the unit and it can be disconnected there if it needs removal. No need to mess with the connector at the unit. Most of the standard connectors are located behind the headlamp under the instrument cluster. https://i.ibb.co/yqMTmy8/IMG-20211129-114809899-HDR.jpg https://i.ibb.co/j8BFXWp/IMG-20211129-115847772-HDR.jpg |
X-Pect wiring diagram
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X-Pect EFI fuel system and Oxygen sensor, ECU, Trouble codes, Owners Manual
There is a black box (fuel cell?) with two hoses coming into the top from the gas tank and the fuel pump is bolted the bottom with its electrical connector and the high-pressure fuel line to the fuel injector. Gas comes from the tank by way of the petcock into the black box, or fuel cell and is pressurized by the pump and transported to the injector. The Owner’s manual shows the fuel pump as part of the tank but that is obviously not the case. I am thinking the fuel flows from the tank by gravity and it is not pressurized but could be mistaken time will tell. The second hose line from the black box back to the fuel tank must be an unused fuel return line. There is no obvious filter for the fuel and a filter must be included as part of the fuel pump. If anyone has clarification, feel free to add a comment.
fuel cell https://i.ibb.co/mqJStWk/IMG-20211204-103350450-HDR.jpg The fuel pump is marked with 250 KPa which translates into 36 psi. https://i.ibb.co/2SL5rQ1/Fuel-pump-pix.jpg Fuel Injector https://i.ibb.co/30Zf3PD/fuel-injector.jpg The oxygen sensor with a thread diameter of 12mm. It has anti seize, I will spread it evenly or add more in case I need to remove it. Good function critical for EFI. https://i.ibb.co/WxYsv14/Oxygen-sensor.jpg ECU - Troubleshooting the EFI, go to the Owners Manual, best place to start, has a troubleshooting section and fault codes. ECU will flash out trouble codes. https://i.ibb.co/0QzX9YH/Fault-codes.jpg |
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