OK Im exhausted. Got the bike uncrated. Fit and finish and fenders look very rough but I expect that from a chinese made product. No big deal.

The good:

Bike looks good over all.

Started right up and idled fine.

Everything seems to work so far. Cant test brakes or shifter yet but it did seem to shift fine while idling.

The bad:

Screws and bolts are typical chinese poor metalurgy. Very soft steel and easy to damage. I stripped out the screws for the front brake fluid resivoir so now Im screwed. Im sure I used the corect size screw driver. That is what really chaffes my butt. Those suckers are on there tight. Too tight.

Q: How do I get the stripped screws out?

Changed the oil but after putting in new oil I noticed there was a rubber washer on the ground. Doh! Was that on the drain plug? Im not sure but I do not remember seeing a washer when I dropped the plug to drain it. Could be from something else.

Air filter had a small dent in it. Mostly cosmetic. Not sure if it's worth putting in an RMA for it to the dealer. Opinions?

Q: There is a hole in the frame just forward of the seat. Is this hole an option to move the seat forward an inch? If so that would be great as I am a bit on the short side.

Will eventually ask a lot of questions Im sure.

Will try to upload photos ASAP.

Congratulations, Gonzo! I'm glad your bike finally arrived. :D

For future reference, it helps if you hit the screwdriver with a hammer before you try to untighten the screws in the brake master cylinder. ;) I think your best bet now is to carefully drill the heads off the stripped screws. Then you can remove the cap to the master cylinder. After the cap is removed, you should be able to loosen the screws with a pair of vise grips. ;)

The other DF Bobber owners will probably have a definitive answer for you shortly regarding the rubber O-ring. ;)

We eagerly await your photos! :D

Spud :)

I'm glad to hear that it runs! That's a good start.

Google it. IIRC there is a special screwdriver that is sharp and curved a little for removing stripped out phillips screws.

Sounds like you are off to a good China-start.

Of course we will all disown you if you don't post pictures soom.

OK hope this works:

http://i1149.photobucket.com/albums/...icture2007.jpg

http://i1149.photobucket.com/albums/...icture2006.jpg

http://i1149.photobucket.com/albums/...icture2004.jpg

http://i1149.photobucket.com/albums/...icture2003.jpg

http://i1149.photobucket.com/albums/...icture2000.jpg

http://i1149.photobucket.com/albums/...icture2008.jpg

Very nice looking machine :P . How hard would it be to remove the tank decals? :roll:

You bike looks great! :) Thanks for making the time to capture and post the great photos, Gonzo! We love photos, especially of bikes arriving in the crate. :D

Spud :)

I still think your best bet is to carefully drill the heads off the screws holding the cover on the master brake cylinder. ;)

Spud :)

Sweet bike! I love eveything about the design, including the sprung seat. I think that an Easy-out would remove those screws. If not, then drilling the heads (like Spud says) would do the trick.

By the way an impact screwdriver may still do the trick.

I like to have at least one Snap-on screwdriver for cases like this.

I use a small ratchet screwdriver for these purposes. It's much easier to apply downforce and turn if you have a lever.

Upon further reflection, I agree with my fellow moderators. ;) If you have a Harbor Freight store nearby, buy either an impact screwdriver, and/or a screw extractor set. ;)

http://www.harborfreight.com/12-piec...set-40349.html
http://www.harborfreight.com/impact-...ase-37530.html

I own both these tools, and have had occasion to use them on my motorcycles. These tools work well, and are certainly worth the modest price required to add them to your tool chest. :)

Spud :)

Incidentally, both the tools I mentioned are currently on sale. ;)

Spud :)

Well I thought there was zero break fluid in there but I was wrong. Once I started messing with it, the breaks started working. It was very weak and spongy at first so I though it was empty of brake fluid. It wasnt. I guess I still need to open it though to bleed the brakes right?

I think I also need to get some chain oil. Will check auto parts store for that.

I did get a tap-dye screw extractor kit but Im not sure its the right size.
What exactly is an impact screw driver? Guess Ill check with auto parts place tomorrow for that. Probably too late for the impact tool though as it is prety stripped out right now. Hard to tell from the photo though.

I still need to take my course. Man I should have taken care of that but I wanted to wait in case I had to cancel my order. Now that my bike is here I am aching to ride it. Monday I will get insurace set up and call killermotorsports with my vin number to get temporary plates.

My Fiancee is worried that she will see less and less of me now LOL. She may have a point. :lol:

Just pressing and releasing the front brake lever might fix the situation. Whenever I remove the front wheel, I need to press the brake lever a few times to get the piston to seat on the brake pads. ;) However, if you need to bleed the brake lines, I suggest you read the following thread. ;)

http://chinariders.net/modules.php?n...ewtopic&t=9814

Rather than merely bleed the brake lines, I suggest you change the brake fluid. It doesn't take much longer to change the brake fluid, and who knows what kind of brake fluid the factory installed in China? :roll:

Instead of buying chain lube, I suggest you get some 90W gear oil, or some chainsaw, bar and chain oil. Since you are riding on the street, these products will work very well, and will cost much less than commercial chain lube. ;)

P.S. Your fiancee is very wise, and probably correct! :lol:

Spud :)

My Fiancee is worried that she will see less and less of me now LOL. She may have a point.

Ya think? :lol:

One seat....

See you later honey! Love you! :P

If the brakes aren't spongy after you pump the lever a few times, it'll likely be fine as is. That will give you time to research an impact.

I recommend Maxima Chain Wax; it's around $12.00 per can where I live, but it lasts a long time. The benefit to it is that it doesn't fling off onto your jacket.

Good call on the chain wax, Weld. ;) I didn't notice the fully exposed, drive chain. :roll: That drive chain looks very tight by the way; you need about 1-1/2" of slack in the drive chain, or you risk damaging the countershaft sprocket. 8O

You might also try DuPont Teflon Multi-Use Lubricant, available at most Lowes stores. ;)

http://images.lowes.com/product/conv...21191570xl.jpg

http://www.lowes.com/pd_213197-39963...ose&facetInfo=

I've used this product, and it's great! :D

Spud :)

I've never tried Tefflon lube on cables, but I know that Chain Wax is very effective on cables, in addition to chains.

BTW, you can usually find Chain Wax at any bike shop.

I'm sure the Maxima chain wax is excellent. :) Many motorcyclists are using the Dupont Teflon lubricant with great results. ;)

http://www.webbikeworld.com/t2/motor...chain-lube.htm

Spud :)

I would try it too. Most auto parts stores or sears sell them. It is a great tool to have.

Thanks Guys,

I will check into the chain slack. I am a total MC noob unfortunately. I have sooooo much to learn. LOL.

Seems like a good simple bike to learn on.

You will get a crash course here.

X2. ;) You came to the right place, Gonzo. :)

Spud :)

There haven't been many incidents of flaming newbies here, either. We all started somewhere. Bring on the questions.

OK have noob questions:

1)Somebody told me that after break in I should use synthetic oil and that would make shifting a lot smoother. True or not? What would make it shift smoother.

2)I can find nuetral fine when the engins is off. While running with clutch not engaged though it is really hard to find nuetral. Is this normal?

I can not ride the bike yet because I still have to get my M license and I am still waiting on the tags.

3)The transmission seems to only go from N to 1st and 2nd gear. I can not get it in 3rd gear or beyond while engine is off or even while idling. Its like its not even there. Is that normal? Do I have to be actually riding the bike before I can find gears 3-5?

4)Owners manual says to get M oil specifically designed for wet clutch engines. Did I buy the right oil?
I bought Lucas high performance semi synthetic 10w-40 JASO MA-2motorcycle oil. It says its OK for wet clutch applications. I was in a hurry when I bought it. Is it OK?

[quote="GonzoX"]OK have noob questions:

1)Somebody told me that after break in I should use synthetic oil and that would make shifting a lot smoother. True or not? What would make it shift smoother.

A little controversy here but in general synthetic oil is fine. Whether there is a practical advantage versus regular oil changes with conventional oil is controversial.

2)I can find nuetral fine when the engins is off. While running with clutch not engaged though it is really hard to find nuetral. Is this normal?

Might be normal. Might be the oil. Might be the clutch cable lubrication or adjustment. In any event should be fine. Change the oil, lube and adjust the cable.

I can not ride the bike yet because I still have to get my M license and I am still waiting on the tags.

I recommend a MSF class.

3)The transmission seems to only go from N to 1st and 2nd gear. I can not get it in 3rd gear or beyond while engine is off or even while idling. Its like its not even there. Is that normal? Do I have to be actually riding the bike before I can find gears 3-5?

Normal and usually yes.

4)Owners manual says to get M oil specifically designed for wet clutch engines. Did I buy the right oil?
I bought Lucas high performance semi synthetic 10w-40 JASO MA-2motorcycle oil. It says its OK for wet clutch applications. I was in a hurry when I bought it. Is it OK?

Your oil is fine. Many here use Walmart Shell Rotella 15-50 with good results.

Your homework assignment.

Read all the content on Dan's website:

www.dansmc.com.

Thanks FastDoc,

Transmission doesnt have a cable. Its a rod. It has an adjustment nut on each end but that only adjusts the possition of the pedal up or down from what I can see.

And yes I am taking the MFS class 11-13May.

Your comment about the shifting with engine off gave me piece of mind. Was worried about that so thanks again. Once I get temporary tags I will let my brother test it out for me on the road.

I called killermotorsports this morning to get the temp tags emailed to me.
Not sure how long this takes but I did not get it today. I guess even temp tags take a while?

Thanks again.

Oh one more thing. My understanding is that the engine oil also acts as the transmission oil right? That's why you use wet clutch oil correct?

I know that may sound a bit dumb but I am really a total motorcycle noob here.

Not dumb at all. None of us were born knowing this stuff.

Yes to your question.

The lubrication and adjustment I was refering to is the clutch cable, you are refrencing the shifter linkage.

You are being very wise in your approach to beginning motorcycling.

Get yourself in the MSF course. http://www.msf-usa.org

That's correct; you want to avoid "energy conserving" motor oils which are too slippery for your clutch to function properly.

Your questions are excellent, and we welcome them. :) You came to the right place, Gonzo. Unlike most internet forums, we pride ourselves in maintaining a polite, helpful atmosphere at China Riders. :)

Spud :)

Here's another homework assignment. ;) If you really want to know about engine oil for your motorcycle, read the following articles. :)

http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/Consumables.html
http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/Oils1.html

I use 15W/40, diesel motor oil in all my motorcycles. I was running Shell, Rotella, T-6, Synthetic motor oil for quite a while in my Zong. I now use 15W/40 motor oil in all my motorcycles. ;) My Zongshen 200GY-2 now has over 45,000 miles on the odometer, so I guess my choice of motor oil hasn't hurt the engine. :)

Spud :)

Oh the clutch cable. Didnt even think of that. I do know it seems to work fine since the clutch is free of any friction once I depress it. But I will check it again to see if it needs adjustment. TY.

I do remember somebody at work suggested I use diesel commercial motor oil as well. Will remember this once I break the bike in.

The cables are notoriously dry from the factory. Buy yourself a cable luber like this one from Motorcycle Superstore: Motion Pro Cable Luber Use whatever aerosol lube you wish that has a straw; you'll need the straw for the luber. Like I shared with you before, I like Maxima Chain Wax for cables and chains.

Excellent news. That's a good decision.

X2; taking the MSF class is one of the best decisions you will ever make. ;)

Spud :)

Harbor freight had cable lubers on sale for $3 the last time i was in there.

Btw.....neat bike!

OK I have a confession to make.

I still need to take the class next weekend and I do not have an M designation on my class C lic. But I could not stand it any longer.
I am sure some of you will chew me out for this but at least Im being honest.

I RODE MY BIKE! OMG I feel like a teenager again. No wonder middle aged men buy these damn things!

I only rode around the block of my neighborhood. Low traffic and I thought I was pretty safe. I did get insurance on it. Only cost me $77.

A few notes: Manual is completely wrong about shifting. It says one up for 1st and four down for the rest of the gears. The transmission is the complete opposit on mine. One down for first and four up. I am happy for this as this seems more natural to me.

Only issue I still have is that I can find neutral just fine while engine is off but almost impossible to find while engine is running.

I did put chain oil on but have yet to lube the clutch cable. Maybe that is the reason. Did some research and most info I got was that I may need to adjust clutch cable, change engine oil type or adjust clutch itself. I pray that the fix is an easy and cheap one.

Engine sputtered and hesitated a bit until it warmed up. Not sure why. Maybe it takes a while to warm up. Let it warm for 1 min only and then I put the choke in the full open possition.

I have to admit, there was a time when I thought to myself that I may have been making a big mistake and what did I get myself into. But damn I feel like a kid again. Soooo worth it! Most fun I have had with my clothes on.

On another forum ppl suggested I buy a new NKG spark plug. Seems to run fine but plugs are cheap so I may do that anyway just to be safe. May also replace the metal filter with a paper element. Not sure I trust the stock filter.

I did get some really strange looks and one guy pulled over and asked me if my DF250 was a harley. That made my day LOL.

Anyway, dont be too hard on me. I was like a 16yr old boy on his first date with a hottie and I had no self control. I had to ride her LOL.

One down and four up is the standard shift patten. A real NGK plug is $2 at Oreilly's. Most likely your carb is set too lean and causing the sputtering until it gets warmed up good.