Hawk 250 swing arm bushings
 

Does anyone know where these can be found at? I am not having any luck on finding these. There was a lengthy post on replacing these but no answere on where to find them at. Any help will be appreciated!!!

Wow, a Hawk with worn out S/A bushings already? Couldn't be the S/A hinge bolt, could it. Many people do not grease that bolt when they assemble the machine. You checked the nut and washer on that bolt, right? :grr:

a little over 1000 miles on the bike and they are toast!! it could had been from the bolt not being tight enough not sure but bolt looks okay. Chain kept coming off and finally diagnosed it last night. drove the bushing sleeves out and riding around town looking for a replacement is not fun!

First place I'd go to is whoever sold you the bike. That should be under warranty. I have made these bushings before out of 1/2 inch hydraulic hose and 2 extra washers each side, but that is what is called a PITA. :cry: I had to make some for my 500cc Triumph brush jumper, as I couldn't find any anywhere. Of course the Triumph was about 20 years old when this happened, so I wasn't real upset.

Are the Hawk bushings the typical type, where there is a metal tube encapsulated by rubber?

Typically, they are vulcanised to the tube(s) :p

I changed sprockets today and figured I should check since it would only add a couple of minutes. Boy am I glad I did, my bushings were utterly barren of any grease. Mine is a new July 2016 model also. I lubed it and the rear shock connection before re-assembling.

http://i.imgur.com/xBJBMGY.jpg?1

The problem from what I've seen is that the inner metal bushing came out of the rubber inwards causing the swing arm bolt to wear away the rubber. Solution was to go to the auto parts store and buy some rubber hose to replace the damaged rubber and then cut a length of copper tubing to keep the two inner metal bushing from coming out.

A true china rider fix :tup:

As human being calls it , ghetto fix:hehe:

swing arm bushings
 

These bushings look a lot like those found on GY6 scooters used to insulate engine vibrations at mounting points. I have seen them on scooter parts web sites and eBay.

Look at GY6 scooter engine bushing

Same same but different !!!
GY6 ... https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=10167548341
---
On-roads https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=39507525911
on/off (Good old GY...) http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=537846737751
Pit bike https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=521552432809

I know these things are built on the cheap..
but rubber bushes in the swing arm pivot
that just screams nasty...

they had them on the boys pitbike.. but on a bike
like this.... why..
I machined bronze bushes & sleaves for it

if yer can't find bearing to fit...
cut the eyes out of the swing arm... machine new ones
to take bearings.. weld them back in....
that would be my fix anyway....


...

I far prefer Oilite bronze bushings for this job, with a loose fitting spacer tube between them, and a grease zerk installed in the center of the swing arm cross piece. Not the one the shock is attached to.
A well greased bronze bushing is very hard to wear out, and it improves handling by reducing the tendency of the rear wheel moving from side to side. Try it. You'll like it.

There are roller bearings that will replace those.Tho I'm not sure what size.I've never had one, so I'm not sure exactly how the rear swing arm is set up.The bearings need an inner race,aka sleeve,to ride on, and for the bolt to clamp down on, so the swing arm doesn't bind up as it travels up and down.

So you are saying that the swing arm bushes/eyes are machined to the correct inderfearance fit & alinement for a needle race...

but you also say yer NOT sure what size & never had one...

confusing post....

what is needed is someone to measure them... not with a ruler or calipers..
get a snap gauge & micometer... So yer can check for round/ tapper /weld destortion
then it would be possable to see if a needle races can be fitted..
as a rubber bush even with a outer sleeve can be pushed in to any hole near the right size
but not so with a needle race...

Anything ealse is just quess work...

the japs line bore theres after welding/ casting so true is true...
i surspect the rubber bushs are used to stop the need to line bore
just jig welded...as the rubber is very forgiveing to misalinement...
by misalinement we are talking points of a millimeter at the eye which would
be millimeters at the other eye...



...

Pete, not only do I agree with you, but roller bearings are not the best answer for a reciprocating load. Bronze bushings are best for that use. At least 1 1/2 inches long on either side, with a spacer between them, and a shim or washer between the frame and the swing arm, both sides. Grease fitting in the middle is a good idea. Roller bearings are great for rotating loads.

If you use bronze bushings, do you use a steel sleeve around the pivot bolt or just leave the pivot bolt loose? Wouldn't a loose pivot bolt cause wear to the frame?

Wonder if the Lifan rubber bushings would fit. Mine have lasted 9 years and 50,000+ miles so far.

IMO the best set up is tapered roller bearings like many street bikes use.

No the pivot bolt is held firmly in place. The bearing surface is between the pivot bolt and the bushing. The only real downside to using bushings is that they have to be greasable. I had greasable swing arm bushings on both of my A.J.S.'s, and they lasted with no measureable play for the years I kept them. In fact, I've never heard of AJS/Matchless SA bushings ever going out, even if they only got greased once a year or two.

Sorry about the confusion.

I do not currently own a CB.So I have no way of knowing if the roller bearings are an option, or what may work.I was trying to say that they could be an option.

All of my Japanese bikes have the needle style roller bearings in the swing arm and shock linkages.I've never had one fail.

Yes, they are like the bushings in a control arm. Alfa-Romeo sports cars had (I don't know if they still have) all bronze bushings in the A-arms and even the anti-roll bar of the front end. It made for a very tight handling sports car. It does the same thing for a motorcycle with a rear swing arm.

I've never seen a bike that didn't have an inner swing arm spacer.It my be a quality control issue.

My Hawk did not have a center pipe in between the swing arm bushings and the frame could be tightened down on to the swing arm. The CRF230 swing arm bearing kit works great once you machine the swing arm pivot inner diameter from 25mm to 26mm to accept the new bearings. I had it machined for a .001" interference fit.

Do you have link and the year of the CRF230 bearings that you bought?

That's good info right there.:tup:

If I'm not mistaking,they're all the same.

They are all the same 03-15 CRF150f and CRF230f. I bought this set on ebay. http://www.ebay.com/itm/331501807999

I ended up using four bearings instead of two. I didn't have the swing arm machined all the way through, just deep enough for two bearings on each side.

Thanks, just ordered one. :thanks:

Just under $24.That's a good price.

Yes that is, and only requiring a simple machining job on the swing arm makes it even better.

I wonder if the HAWK swing arm is similar in design to my Bashan swing arm (or the TT250)... a future mod I will have to look into ;)

After reading this thread I drilled, tapped and put a grease zerk on my swingarm and pumped it full of grease. Now i know it has grease in it. I did this on atv and utv as well on every where there is a bushing.

Jerry, should I do this? I have pulled the bolt and liberally greased it. I have considered this but with out seals on the bolts I wonder about having a mess. I don't think it's quite necessary in my case since I don't encounter too much wet situations. On the other hand I might think differently if I lived in gritty salty Houma la.

It's not necessary. It's a lot easier to pump a little grease it it than to pull the swing arm Bolt. On the atv we go through a lot of water and mud. Keeping it full I never have to worry about water getting in it. It doesn't leave a mess.

Since this is still coming up under google as the number #1 spot I thought I would add my fix. My bushings went bad as well,on one side the rubber dissolved and on the other the metal bushing split in two.

After knocking the remaining bushing out, I scrubbed out the swingarm tube, bought 1/2" copper pipe and heater hose. the copper fit over the swingarm bolt perfectly, and the heater hose fit over that and into the swingarm snugly.

I ran the pipe and the tubing all the way through for rigidity, and greased the bolt and end caps with heavy marine grease when I put it back together.

$4 spent and about 90 minutes and the boy is back on the road.