Thanks Weld :)

So....what does it mean to lug the engine? Is it basically making sure the engine isn't in too high of a gear for the speed at which I am trying to travel? I have very little experience with manual transmission vehicles. I rarely drive our truck, and then only on dirt roads...

And winding it out is when it's got its RPMs too high - so in too low a gear for the speed at which I'm traveling (uh...how does this work with engine braking??)

Is there a way to find out what the optimal RPMs is for a given engine? This is clearly another skill i'm going to have to pick up and learn...

A 13T C/S sprocket will definitely help you to pull away in first gear without stalling. :)

When you brake it is important to downshift at the same time. The resulting compression (engine) braking helps you stop quickly, without locking the rear wheel. This is especially important when braking on dirt roads, or pavement covered with gravel/sand. ;)

Our RX3 bikes have optimal power and fuel mileage when the engine is turning about 5,000-7000 rpms.

You are correct regarding lugging, and winding out the engine. :) You can hear the engine winding up to higher rpms. This sound is your signal to shift; don't look at the tachometer. Listen to the engine. When the rpms reach about 5,000-6,000 rpms, it is time to shift from a lower gear.

Thanks for posting the good tip, and the link, EM. :)

Just returned home from the Horizons Unlimited Colorado camp. Was a great few days of riding. Boreas Pass (11,481'), Loveland Pass (11,990) and Guanella Pass four times! (11,670').

The RX-3 had no trouble keeping up with the KTMs, BMWs and KLRs in the group and the bike garnered a lot of attention at the campground. Especially when I mentioned the price. I handed out a dozen or so brochures (Which CSC provided to me) to folks who were interested.

One funny moment was when a Triumph Tiger 800 rider spent a few minutes discussing his Tiger and "mine" until he realized it wasn't a Triumph. The two bikes look very similar side-by-side.

Cheers,

Dan K.

I just added a post on my wife's TU250x with pics here http://www.chinariders.net/showthrea...987#post188987 and will be happy to answer any questions!

Thanks for posting the nice report, Dan. :) I hope you took photos. ;)

I've noticed the clutch engagement is way too far out. It really should be closer in to the handle. I can see how a person with smaller hands could struggle gaining control in the friction zone. I shouldn't have to sprawl my hand nearly wide open to engage the clutch. I have large enough hands to just barely palm a basketball on a good day.

I'd seriously look into adjusting the cable, or try and find adjustable clutch levers.

There is a definite difference between the clutches on my Triumph Tiger and the Cyclone. To me this makes a huge difference for easy riding in any terrain.

True Torque?
 

I just noticed something yesterday and did a little searching around. Not trying to rake muck or complain, but CSC's web site states that the RX-3 has 30.2 ft. lbs. of torque at 7,000 rpm.

Every other mention I can find on the net says it has about 16.5 ft. lbs. of torque at 7,000 rpm.

That's either a pretty big typo or we've got some special motors in our U.S. bikes.

http://images.zaazu.com/img/scratch-...415-medium.gif

Cheers,

Dan K.

Where did you see 30.2 ft-lbs of torque? Their specs page lists 16.5 ft-lbs.

Spud's response was ideal.

Since you brought up engine braking, I'll throw out a new challenge for you. New riders will often simply pull in the clutch, downshift and then release the clutch, which can result in aggressive braking. When you pull the clutch in to downshift, give the throttle a quick rev (not too much) as you kick the shifter down, and then gently release the clutch (vs. dumping it).

After some practice, you should feel very little engine braking, but rather a smooth transition from gear to gear. It makes for a more pleasant ride, and it's easier on your bike. Be patient with yourself as you experiment with this technique; it takes time.

Hey RJ, here's a ride report for you :)

http://www.rx3forums.com/forums/show...d-Rollins-Pass

I find with the 14 tooth sprocket, my RX3 likes to cruise at 6000-7000 RPM. It reaches peak power somewhere between 8000 and 9000. I generally shift above 6000 RPM ... a little higher on hills and maybe a little lower on the flats. Like Spud says, once you learn how that sounds, you'll shift by sound and by how the power feels, not by watching the tachometer.

If you have time, please do post your ride report here, also. :)

http://www.chinariders.net/forumdisplay.php?f=113

I'm sorry to hear of you minor spill at the end of the ride, but I'm glad to know you and the bike escaped with only minor damage. ;)

Here: http://www.cscmotorcycles.com/product-p/zrx3-b.htm

http://i605.photobucket.com/albums/t...one/Torque.png

Cheers,

Dan K.

Thanks for the great pics and report Detours. I found a lot of bolts loosen up after my first ride in Hell's Canyon so when I went over them after the ride I replaced lost ones and lock-tited them . Part of the doings of adventure riding. rj

Ya that HP number is clearly a typo. 30.2 ftlbs at 7000 rpm. Would be 40 hp!

Off and running
 

Got back yesterday from a 25 day ride on my Spyder to Alaska with a group of 10 Spyder Ryders. 8,622 mile roundtrip and averaged 345 miles/day.

Spent today getting the RX-3 ready to go to Idaho and meet up with the CSC group for a few days of riding.

Ain't retirement wonderful!

I'm jealous ;) I've been toiling away at work dreaming about more riding practice...

Don't forget to take lots of photos :D and have a wonderful time!

Thanks Sprite. I've come to the conclusion that a bucket list is pointless, I need a 45 gallon drum!

That's going on the fridge! :D

I made it from the Telluride side today.

We just won't talk about going over the handlebars on the way down...
Attachment 3056
When are you pre-riding? I'd love to try to join you.

Sound like you are certainly making an adventure out of it!

I plan to be down there Sat. Hopefully I can make do with the stock rubber. I will have hand grass in place.

What's "hand grass in place" mean ??????? I'm kinda slow. rj

Damn you auto correct

Hand Guards!

My hand grass is personal problem I would rather not discuss...

:hehe:

:))))))))))))) rj

There is another center stand being produced for the Zongshen RX3. :tup: You can read about it at the following thread. :)

http://cyclone-rx3.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=70

http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j2...StandDownL.png

Great idea. Nice execution. Now, to throw my non-engineering opinion into the mix, any chance you can add a leverage bar to it to make lofting the loaded bike up easier.

Like this:

http://www.ascycles.com/images/produ...6527655459.jpg

Cheers,

Dan K.

I'm looking into the idea. However, because I've had to move the center stand's pivot point rearward to get the bike to balance in the proper place, a leverage arm would interfere with the normal operation of the kickstand.

What I am currently doing is messing with the leg length of the center stand to find that happy medium walk-over point. It might mean that 2 inches of vertical rear tire lift could reduce to only 3/4", but that's my target minimum. (A sheet of wood) As that would still allow for free tire movement even if you had knobbies.

However, as opposed to the stock center stand offering, mine has very large footpads that you can step on while rocking the bike back.

Perhaps a stud welded onto the footpad would be a benefit.

If you notice in the pic, the center stand nests just under the kick stand. A bolt, or an arm of any kind will interfere with the kick stand swinging down. Right now as designed, it just clears it.

But the center stand works just fine without an extra appendage. I may dip the feet into truck bed liner to help with smooth shop floors. As mine is epoxy coated and I'd just like to not be scratching the floor every time I use the center stand. But the rubberized coating will actually help give you a bit of traction in your garage.

Spud, where are you?

http://californiascooterco.com/blog/...5_6115-900.jpg

Welcome to the Gem State. :)

I didn't have an opportunity to connect with you, but I'm glad you hooked up with AZRider, and will be meeting others near Boise. Ride safely. :tup:

Fitting a relay for my heated grips prompted me to finally fit the rest of my daytime running lights as i now had an easy source of ignition switch controlled power.
These are just dirt cheap LED lights and switch from ebay. They seem quite effective, all for under £10 ($15).
The extra LED brake light and indicators on the topbox i had done previously. This LED strip was quite cheap too. :)

Attachment 3061
Attachment 3062
Attachment 3063

also i have fitted a water proof micro switch to my side stand.
I have it wired to the horn.
So if i turn on the ignition with the side stand down i get a loud reminder..:doh:
This suites me as i always kick the stand up before switching on. Though i always do this my memory ain't what it used to be.
:hmm:
I have wired in a hidden switch so i can disable it if i choose.

Attachment 3064

I really like your switch stand reminder.


/

Disappointed that we didn't get to see you today Spud, we had a good ride and are headed to Hells Canyon tomorrow. It's a great and diverse group and they actually play well together. Just goes to show that the common bond of the Zong over comes any negative.

As always, you did a very nice job, Kat. Thanks for sharing your modifications with us. :)

Indeed, I also like your microswitch very much. :tup: