I remember the old Royal Enfield lash adjustment, no feeler gauge needed. Tighten the adjusters so there is no clearance but you can still turn the push rods with your fingers. As far as the bet goes, I got to ride the Ducati demo bike home for a week. BTW the Ducati had the unique Desmodronic valve system.

If you think about it, the exhaust valves in those engines with a .05mm cold clearance couldn't tighten up much when hot because only tiny change would mean the valve wouldn't contact the seat.

Thanks Spud!
 

I was thinking of the 15w 40-50w diesel Rotella or Delo 400 oil to start with due to the extra detergents diesel blended oils are blessed with. This helps clean out any manufacturing debris, assembly lube, and goo in general, if any.

It also has excellent anti shear additives and thus properties, helping insure a thorough and complete break in, especially insuring good ring seal and bearing micropolishing during break in. The transmission and engine sharing oil is another good reason for the diesel additive packages use during its initial break in, IMHO.

I like the engines have been flogged a bit and run hard to redline a few times as this seats rings and insures its gonna hold together long enough to get home, even if there is some (not very likely) defect in these new designs and new production of our new motorcycles. This of course would be of less concern as the bikes production matures, and assembly/manufacturing gets debugged when things are discovered as more units are ou in our hands and being used in the field.

I feel confident enough in the motorcycle to hop on it even with only a few, (probably less than 100 miles) and start cross country:)!
I'll probably cruise through some interesting and slower paced rides (ie Joshua tree NPark, and some other areas of interest (like someone on here offered in the Lake Havasau area. This would allow a break in riding to check any needed items (valve clearances and oil change, if needed:) at a friendly motorcycle owner's home and with their hospitality and help:)!
this can make a BIG difference in the quality and enjoyment (destressing the ride somewhat for me:)! KNOWING things have been checked and adjusted as recommended to proper specs.

AFter break in its gonna be AMsoil motorcycle oil all the way (like every thing else I have thats got a motor in/on it:)!! since the 1970's! I am a firm believer in AMsoil synthetics! Never let me down in anything. My Dodge pickup has over 1 million miles on it now 1996, 5.9 Cummins turbodiesel with a NV 5 speed (original, never ..yet. The 5th gear issue needs addressing at some point).

The standard oil change interval is 2000 miles after break in, corect? I'm installing Rotells before I leave CSC, and then at 600 miles or sooner, probably or if possible on the ride back. If the Havasu stay is offered, and its OK, I'll change it there, even though it will be less than 500 miles probably... I think I'm going to use the throw away filter the first couple of break in changes as well, if they filter a smaller size particle.

By the way, I read others posts that many other motorcycle filters fit our CSC Rx-3's. What mainstream bikes are compatible? I can then source an Amsoil 2 or 5 micron filter for the initial break in when the filter is working its hardest, and is most important.
I a a commercial account and get a large discount also don't do the "dealer" hassle, and can drop ship filters to anyone wanting them.
With the info re other Honda or Yamaha, etc compatible filters, I can post up specs and pricing etc for anyone interested.

AGain, Thanks everyone for the info and help re our bikes! Hope I can return the favor re some of this stuff;)!

I can't find the oil change interval in the Zongshen RX3 Owner's Manual. Perhaps the information is there, but I can't find it. :hmm: The AJP PR5 Owner's Manual specifies an oil change every 3,000 kms, or 2,000 miles. :)

I don't know of any oil filters from 'mainstream bikes' which fit the Zongshen NC250 engine. :shrug: Oil filters from other motorcycles which employ the Zongshen NC250 engine will also fit the Zongshen RX3. ;) The stock oil filters are re-usable, stainless steel filters. You can also order a paper oil filter for the largest, fine oil filter. As far as I know, the two, smaller, coarse oil filters are only available in stainless steel format. ;)

The CSC Oil Change Tutorial contains the following information.

The RX-3 takes 1.7 quarts of 5W-40 or 10W-40 motorcycle oil. That’s one quart and about 24 ounces of oil. Don’t use car oil or any oil with “friction inhibitors” because this will cause the clutch to slip.

The first oil change should be at 200 miles, the second should be at 1000 miles, and subsequent oil changes should occur every 2000 miles after that.

You can find the links to the CSC maintenance tutorials in the Zongshen RX3 sticky thread, which is pinned to the top of this Dual Sport Forum. ;)

http://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=14228

After re-reading the CSC Oil Change Tutorial, I see the the main, fine oil filter in the CSC bike is a paper filter. ;)

http://californiascooterco.com/blog/?p=13911

http://californiascooterco.com/blog/...C0055-6502.jpg

Therefore, we will need to purchase more paper oil filters, or one of the stainless steel, re-usable oil filters. CSC has stated it will be selling paper oil filters. I don't know if they are selling the stainless steel, oil filters. The two, coarse oil filters are re-usable, stainless steel filters.

http://californiascooterco.com/blog/...C0036-6501.jpg

My Zongshen ZS200GY-2 came equipped with a stock, stainless steel, oil filter. I will be getting several re-usable, stainless steel, oil filters for my Zongshen RX3 as well. If CSC doesn't carry the stainless steel, oil filters, you can get them from Taobao.com. ;)

http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=...cket=18#detail

http://gd2.alicdn.com/bao/uploaded/i...x400.jpg_.webp

It never occurred to me to test that theory. This is one of the reasons that I really enjoy this forum; there's always something new to learn or consider! :tup:

I wondered the same thing. Assembly and production procedures are purportedly far superior to past China engines, and they claim to run each engine before it goes out the door. That said, there is no guarantee that every valve is in spec, and if an exhaust valve is tight enough, the engine won't even start (as I've seen on several new China engines).

Before doing a fly-and-ride, I'd certainly check not only the lash, but the tightness of the nut. Wouldn't hurt.

Sounds like the hillbilly method of setting hydraulic valves in a SBC. :D

I've also read that diesel oils contain zinc, which is apparently good for bearings (although that probably means babbit more than rollers). Regular car oil doesn't have zinc, but I can't recall why not. Perhaps it's an emissions control issue or a catalytic converter risk.

I wonder if there would be any benefit to a paper filter at all. Spud's Zong and several Yamaha models all use a coarse screen at the drain plug and a fine SS filter in the filter housing, and those engines have a reputation for living a long life.

All of my Honda clone engines (and my Honda engines) have only the coarse screen at the drain plug, and those are also very reliable. I'm beginning to think that anything that could get through the screen wouldn't harm anything at all.

The CG type engines also have the centrifugal filter that does pretty good job gathering up the small particles.

I agree. I appreciate it when someone shares information. We can't learn anything if we are unwilling to entertain cognitive dissonance, and challenge our paradigms. :)

What is the acronym SBC?

In December I was helping my Christian Brother Andy work on a '92 GMC Jimmy with a 4.2L V6 engine. Because of a coolant leak we removed the intake manifold and both cylinder heads. When we re-assembled the engine we adjusted the hydraulic valves using the same method. :)

I agree completely. I'm definitely going to inspect the valve lash soon after I receive my RX3. I would do that with any motorcycle, new or old, from any manufacturer. ;)

As usual, you are correct. ;) Zinc harms catalytic converters.

http://www.enginebuildermag.com/2008...ives-got-zinc/

The 15W/40 motor oil used to contain more zinc, but the government has mandated lower levels of zinc in diesel motor oil. Even the big diesel tractors are starting to get catalytic converters.