How did you get pics to load?
I’ve given up on loading them from my iPhone.

Took the bike around the yard a few times. Pilot is definitely too large (60).
As soon as I get out of the pilot stage, past 1/4 throttle, this thing screams! My 200 main may be a bit rich but damn, it goes. Pulls so damn hard in the midrange I can’t get past 3/4 throttle in 1st or 2nd. I’ll need to get it on the road to check WOT, and all the roads around here are flooded right now lol.

Pics. I use a Panasonic SLR digital camera, and post them on a photohosting website. Links only.

Test ride after
Main, 120 to 125
Pilot, 40 to 45.
Shimmed the needle with one washer (about 1mm).

No popping on deceleration, or "misfire" midrange anymore. Responsive and flawless!

It sounds exactly the same. It just runs better. But I connected it to the OEM big oil soaked air filter intake. Maybe you have more induction sound bypassing the intake filter. No idea how it could sound different?

I like the way you've done this. I was thinking maybe this was not a real You-All carb but after seeing the pics Im doing the same as you. What Jets did you use on this? Can you post a link? Simple to add a small shim washer. How did you fasten the bowl back after cutting the studs?

Photohosting website…
It’s like 2005 LS1tech forums all over again. I haven’t used one of those in a very long time lol.

I did not cut the heads off the screws. I cut a flathead slot into them with a Dremel and reused them. I got Allen bolt replacements but they were the wrong size !!! :crazy:

The jets were from one of two sources. The pilot jets were from a kit I got from Amazon, and the mains were from AliExpress or Alibaba. I will find the Amazon link. Alibaba links always change. Maybe I can find it.

UPDATE. The main jets in the kit from Amazon also fit...The jet kit is described as this at amazon:
Supermotorparts 10Pcs Carburetor Main Jets kit & 10Pcs Slow Pilot Jets for PWK Keihin OKO CVK PWM
$12

Attachment 26971

Doesn’t the stock unit use Kiehin jets?
Those things are a dime a dozen.

Yes, these fit:
https://www.chinariders.net/showpost...&postcount=285

.06 and .08 millimeters? Not inch?

You are correct. it is inch, not mm. I just verified looking at the feeler gauge. 0.07mm would be too tight!

Just got back from a title office. Plated with two year registration. I am insured and street legal, no issues.:yay:

Yes Inch's not Millimeters.. Sorry

Tail light mounting nuts
 

Check the two 7mm nuts that secure your TAIL LIGHT!
These are tiny little nuts, but....
The tail assembly needs mounting when you unpack the crate, but I overlooked these. Fortunately, after a couple of hours on the engine, they were just loose, not LOST! I discovered this while mounting the license plate:tup:

A drop of loctite and snug them up before you assemble if possible (hard to drop in the loctite once assembled- but possible, I can attest):lmao:

I'm still using the stock Torch D8TC a quick cross reference should show the NGK model. For oil I'm using Rotella T4 15W-40.

Did you get your bike in??

Not yet, I live in a pain in the ass place for deliveries. Fingers crossed Monday night

Well my jet kit should, God willing, be here tonight. I have to start tuning the pilot jet. Running very rich so I’m going to drop from the stock 60 to 50 and see what happens.

Anyway, I figured out that the easiest way to get to the carb is to just unbolt the subframe at the bottom and rotate everything out of the way. Even with dropping the muffler and header it cut hours off the job.
In doing so I got to inspect our stock exhaust…it’s pretty impressive. Muffler is a very straight through design-you can see daylight through it even with the angled tip. The header is also very well assembled-no heaps of slag from the welding process just a very even, unobtrusive bead.
I’ll try posting pics…again lol

I'm hoping for Monday also. I ordered another one for a friend. Really hoping he decides it's not for him and I can keep it. I have 4 boys we all have Hondas from a 230 to a CRF 50. Saying bye to my 230F and won't look back.

I think I see what your doing unbolting the subframe. Going to to put new jets in the stock carb this weekend hope this works if not I'm going your route..

Enduro. ~36" seat height. Big frame, massive headset, long suspension travel, skinny seat.... This X is not a TBR7/Hawk/Brozz CG clone. But those are available for your friend, if he prefers;)

Well it’s been a busy weekend but I think I found the best way to try tuning this carb.
For lack of a better term, on the drivers side, between the pet coco and the intake boot is a bundle of electrical cables that gets in the way of accessing the side and underneath the carb.
I relocated this as high as I could, just an inch or so up on top of the mount it sits in.
It made enough room that with a flexible shaft screwdriver I can remove the float bowl and replace jets without lifting the subframe.
I also replaced the Phillips head screws on the float owl with hex head to make this sort of thing easier.
So still bouncing around with jets. Stock jetting is 60 pilot 200 main, middle needle seat. I got all the way down to 35 on the pilot circuit and found a really good idle-but it was so lean that any throttle under load would kill it (I learned a valuable lesson here I think-you can make any pilot idle ok, but WOT tells the tale if its right or not), Same with 150 main jet-way too lean. 60 and 200 were hugely rich, bike didn’t pop so much as sound like it was drowning under throttle lol.

So now I have my range and a relatively easy way to change jets. I tried 45/175 tonight and both were a bit lean toward the tops of their respective throttle ranges-pilot started to Peter out just before the needle jet kicked in, and main pulled up to the last 1/8th throttle or so then started coughing. I’ll try 50/180 tomorrow night.

Received my "Correcdted MCO" yesterday, so hoping to have mine licensed this week......(Finally !! ):yay:

OK, who all has gotten theirs insured, and who insured it? I'm having trouble with my carrier (Kentucky Farm Bureau ) but they have just started insuring motorcycles....used to use Dairyland, but they are not wanting to insure it either...

Geico insured mine. The website did not work because the brand and VIN are unavailable. But I have an existing account with three bikes on it with Geico. I added it by calling the number the website told me to when it failed. It cost $35 to add it (annual premium, liability only). But as I said, I have an existing account, and I have no claims.

You might scan the MCO and bill of sale and offer to email it to them.

Geico is who i use. I had the same situation on my Venom Ghost. I emailed them a copy of the MCO and added the bike at no extra cost. I had three bikes with them already. I guess they figured i can't ride all three at the same time. lol

Progressive via USAA

Morning, I received my bike yesterday from Amazon. I hit one snag I’m hoping you can help with, missing the bolt for the shock linkage U-bar. Was the bolt installed on your bike? Did it come in the packaging?

The missing bolt was reported to motion-pro, I’m waiting on the response. In the meantime I’ll hunt for a bolt after work.

Thanks

Finally got my insurance worked out, and thru Farm Bureau...crazy cheap too, added $17 to my 6 month bill (already had 2 bikes on it)
So had to ride it to be inspected, and will definitely need to be geared higher if doing much road riding...glad I ordered the 42 Tooth Sprocket....now I just need to install it.
The front brake really needs to be bled, has VERY little stopping power....and one of the screws in the reservoir was stuck, and striped out (and I was using an impact driver) so I have to deal with that before I can get it bled.
But I'm impressed with it over all, way more bike than the $1,980.00 to my door price let's on..

Sweet! :tup:

Clean those brake rotors and pads up with some brake cleaner to get that oily shipping film off. Brakes will work much better.

My brakes (especially the front) need cleaning. I will have to remove and clean the brake shoes as well.

I had to remove a link from the chain since rear axel was near end of adjustment slot. Now I need to remove another one after ~40 miles running. You will have LOTS of chain to work with when you drop to a 42! It is like 5 feet long. I am going to wait for a while before I make any changes. I run it 90% offroad anyway.

I found one stripped (overtightened) bolt on the front sprocket cover (the lower one) when I removed the sprocket cover. Actually both upper and lower were overtightened, so whoever was installing that had too much coffee or something ;)
The threads from the block came out with the bolt on the lower one! I will need to helicoil it or tap new threads. I am not sure how much case I have to work with there.

Dude THAT SUCKS!!!
My condolences brah

Received another one. Got the color requested. I guess orange is not popular.

How are you going about amending the MSO? Email them and asking for it to say motorcycle? May not need to I'm reading where most are receiving a very simple motorcycle MSO.

I thought I got a deal on Insurance. Had no idea it would be so cheap. Into got Progressive they USAA. $72 for a full year..

Added some nice spot lights flashing and amber beams. Size is small and light weight. Mounted just above my front blinker on each side. Can't figure out how to post pictures here.. Will attach a link...

Limited-time deal: Nilight 2PCS 4Inch 60W LED Pods Spot Flood Amber White Light Bar Strobe 6 Modes Memory Function Off-Road Truck Car ATV SUV Cabin Boat with 16AWG Wiring Harness Kit-2 Lead, 2 Years Warranty https://a.co/d/efHBPXl

I just asked politely.
I purchased through Amazon and contacted them (X-Pro) there.
Had it about a week later

Installed my 42 tooth sprocket last night, shortened the chain, cleaned my rotors, but still not good brakes, so still need to bleed them, the front especially. I also made a heavier Skid Plate out of some 3/16" Aluminum....may design a better one eventually. But I really like the bike, should have bought a good X-ring chain, but will when this wears out, I'll get one for it

Quick update, used Amazon message to ask Moto-Pro for the bolt and they’re sending all the rear linkage hardware, very cool. In the meantime I bought a bolt and I’m good to go. One last valve check and oil change and hopefully running tomorrow.

Sorry for the needy post, wanted to get the bike on the ground after the front end was done.

The chain is still a bit off, the guide needs to be modified and it looks like it could use a few mm off the right spacer and a the same added to the left. But it should work well enough as is.

The carb is sweet, thanks Thumper. I’m using your 125/45 deal.

https://youtube.com/shorts/mctX17fKBYM?feature=share


Hey guys I just made few post on the templar X and am goina try to make more try follow guys thanks

The heat is on here in KC, and that 45 pilot at 850 ft above sea level means no choke needed to start. Amazing.

Wicked. Looks like a beautiful place to ride.

Found an interesting document:
http://www.gpxmotouk.com/uploads/8/0..._watermark.pdf

The watermark is annoying but it’s better than nothing.
It’s for the 172fmm-5, not the A3, but again better than nothing.

Edit to add: anyone know where the rev limiter kicks in?

FYI to everyone here, I had an enlightening chat with Mr. Joe Henner this morning.
I was asking about header options and asked about valve clearance.
He said flatly these are not Honda clone motors like in the hawk, and that’s the valve clearance for them is much, much tighter-.002 inch intake and exhaust, basically almost none.

Oh crap... I set them as I would on the Storm. But only drove 30 miles or so.

But I have to admit I am a little skeptical that significant damage will occur if the gaps are wide in the short term. Sure, there is a performance thing, but I can assure you, these "wide gaps" do NOT reduce performance significantly! This motor is fun.

It really is.
My home selling/moving has really interferes with my bike time but it is a ton of fun.
I don’t think any damage would occur, valves simply wouldn’t be fully open. Might get a bit hotter, but nothing like valves kissing piston.

So as far as my carb testing with the Mikuni I’m into the plug chop phase.
As it is she seems to run very well at 40 pilot, needle #4 slot, and 125 main.
#40 pilot at 1 5/8 turns out on air screw gives a brown insulator and good idle at 1400-1600 rpm according to the gauges, and is very cool at idle.

Needle is in #4 slot and seems to run well but I’ve got a hunch I’ll need to move it to #5. I’d rather run on the rich side anyway and I imagine it should being that it’s been in the high 90’s here. Lord knows when I’ll be able to actually take this thing out on the blacktop to test needle and main. We signed the contract to sell our house so sadly this will have to take the back burner (again) for a while.