Synthetic is fine as long as it is rated for motorcycle wet clutch. I use full synthetic Valvoline motorcycle oil with no issues. But for the break in period, i would use non synthetic. I wouldn't worry about it though.

Ok sounds good. Is the 10W40 the wrong weight for this bike? I definitely got the wrong manual with my bike(only mentions 249cc models) and it recommended 10w40. I finally found the correct manual for my model on Orions website this morning and it recommends 15W 40SE?

also because I'm a newbie to Dirt bikes and new bikes why is it recommended to run conventional during the break in?

[QUOTE=JerryHawk250;371888]Post up a good close up picture of the swing arm. We may be able to help find a match.[/QUOte.
Thanks,
I do not currently have access to the bike, Im back in Florida. I was told to order the older Orion swingarm.

10w40 is good. If you live in a hot climate like I do then I would use 20w50 for the summer.

The reason some use conventional oils for break in is the conventional oils generally contain more detergents in their make-up as opposed to synthetic oils. The idea is to "wash out" the casting flaws and metallic junk left over from assembly. Your You-tube friend is a little behind the times regarding synthetic oils, they are fine to use IF they don't contain friction modifiers. You look on the rear label of oil bottles and there is an API rating, if the label is green DON't use it in your bike, it contains friction modifiers. You'll see them in 0-20w, 5-20w oils. As Jerry said stick to the motorcycle only oils and it's hard to go wrong. Don't overthink it, just make sure your bike is full of clean oil.:)

A LOT of members will swear by cheap, bulk purchase Rotella 15W-40. I used to 'spoil' my bike since I commuted on it approx. 33 miles a day, year round, and use the 4-stroke Castrol 10W-40 motorcyle oil that I found on the shelf in the local O'Reilly's Auto Parts once a month. Maybe I could have waited every 2 months, but the 'don't overthink it' advice is good :tup:

Keep in mind, these engines are generally generic, low-tech mills designed for 3rd world countries and where the residents in those countries use them and abuse them as work machines, probably with long periods of time between oil changes. The engines keep going and going and going and...

Update: my PZ30 carb started leaking really bad all of a sudden as the bike idled. I planned on replacing it soon but not right away. Must be a stuck float?

Has anyone noticed the RPM on their bikes seem very high? I swear my idle is around 1800 by the sound of it but the RPM is showing 3k. Also is there a rev limit on these bikes stock? Mine was able to Max out the RPM scale at 12k and I thought it was limited somewhere below that.

As for the synthetics - from what I can gather, you can switch to synthetic if you wish but after break-in. Not too sure what may be the reason, but have seen issues where others did use synthetic before the break-in and had some bad clutch slipping. Might just be too slick before everything settles in? I personally don't use synthetic - not against it, just don't see any performance increase or benefits for the increased price. :D

The capacity is a solid quart - so awesome! I was happily surprised to see that after changing the first time; I picked up two quarts, had an extra for the second change. The only thing I don't particularly care for is the screen 'filter' thing that's in place. It does work - nothing at all wrong about how it works, but I'd rather be replacing the filter device instead of just cleaning it off. Again, just my opinion, but don't care for that screen filter lol.. Valves! Do your valves, too!! I didn't think mine were off being a 'new' bike, but wow - was I wrong. NO gap, none at all - after I set the gaps, man.. starts up every time, takes a few starts when the engine is completely cold, but that's normal-ish with no fuel injection or ECU to raise the idle on a cold start. I did my oil changes from 0mi every 500mi until 2000mi, then I moved to every 1000mi. Kind of calculated with my riding it's about 1000mi per 14-15hrs. of riding. And go 5MPH faster than what your speedo reads, it's off by 5MPH, and you'll most definitely have tail-gaters if you're 'doing the speed limit' by the bike!

Hope all that helped!

That info helped a ton. Thank you so much. I have taken her out a ton and she is doing great. I did break one of my front fork guards and wondered if anyone has found aftermarket ones that fit? Thanks for the help!

Update: was able to dial out a low throttle stutter today by moving needle clip to center position, previously one down from center (position 2) and i guess was too rich.. bike is running awesome now.. Did a highway run today as well, at stock gearing its pretty much tapping out at around 55mph GPS verified (61-62 on the speedo) at 8k rpm.. i can push it further but i think thats out of the bikes comfort zone.

Thanks for the helpful info! just ordered one of these! Do you know what the demetions are on the 428 sprockets front and rear and or where i can find the set up online?? Im trying to get a 17/45 set up as i would be doing more road riding.
thanks !

You might want to wait until you get the bike. Mine came with a 520 chain and sprockets even though the site said 428.

suspension?
 

I'm kind of a heavier guy. 250lbs. The suspension is really soft and floaty. Is there any upgrades to stiffen this up?

Best i can think is for you to loosen the lock ring on the rear shock and keep turning the ring until its stiff enough to not sag too much or bottom out. You can also replace the fork oil with heavier weight, but thats a bit more involved.
I rode my daughter recently and we r about 280 combined and i noticed a clicking noise on acceleration, never could figure it out, possibly the chain.

You may think about replacing the fork oil as well. 15 or 20 wt. should work well.