I bought a new Honda spark arrestor for Lifanda, since the part that came with the muffler I bought on eBay is a little small. It can't be easily modified, because it necks down inside and outside the spark arrestor screen. I just received a spark arrestor for a '96 XR250R, since I knew the design and size. I also knew that it wouldn't be a bolt-on deal, but a little Dremel work solved some minor bolt hole misalignment. Here's before and after.

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That required rejetting, so I removed the carb and unscrewed the 22.5 slow jet and 110 main jet. I checked with the numbered bits I have, and a 110 jet falls right between a #57 (0.043") and a #56 (0.046"). In Metric (which is what the Mikuni jet system is based on), a #57 is about 1.09 and a #56 is about 1.17. It struck me as too much of a jump to go straight to 1.17, so I used a 112.5 that I had in stock. I also installed a new 27.5 that I bought online.

If I have to drill out the jet further, I'll use this drill and bit set.

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The sharp observer will note that the bolt heads which secure the spark arrestor have the Lifan symbol stamped in them. Represent.

My exhaust looked just awful, since all of the heat paint I applied last year had burned off. To top it off, I took the bike camping last week, and it got rained on for four days. The header was totally rusted. I cleaned the rust off with a wire wheel on the bench grinder and painted it with this.

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Here's the finished product.

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Here's what it looks like after about 100 miles. I guess a few more coats and a few heat cycles are in order.

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I swapped out the rusty old horn for a Fiamm I found for cheap in the surplus area at Princess Auto. You could only barely hear the old horn, but the new one will get attention when needed.

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For those who are interested, it seems that there are a few styles of valve cover to choose from for the CG pushrod motors. I've read about some members who've had to trim fins off of the cover so that it could be removed for valve adjustment, but that might be solved with a different cover. The first pic is the cover on Lifanda, and the second is the cover on Son of Weldangrind's '83 XR200R. I might try to find a shallow cover for my quad, since valve cover removal is really tricky on that machine.

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Since I was on a roll, I decided to find out why the front brake was noisy. I remember reading about members who had to chamfer the leading edge of the pad, but that wasn't the issue for me. The caliper was broken!

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I had the old Roketa caliper in stock, so I mixed 'n matched parts to use the best of what I have. The master cylinder window was leaking, so I swapped it for an old Gio master, but it lacks the mirror mount. I'll eventually get a new front brake system and re-install the right side mirror.

Trevort, you're a genius.

Thanks for the tip about writing the jet size on the bowl; I love simple solutions like that. The bike is still a little cold-blooded in the morning, so I might swap in a 30 slow jet to see of it helps.

You can see the jet markings on the bowl, and you can barely see the pod filter I installed. I've had it with the stock air box, and the pod filter fits rather well in there.

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You can buy the pod filter for cheap on eBay: 42mm Air Filter

I've removed that anti lock thing and fitted a suzuki g n 125. Front caliper with 2 pistons and made a mount for it ,as origonal Set up was next to useless

Interesting. I've found that the stock caliper with fresh DOT3 and a braided line stops the bike very well. I still intend to replace the caliper and master, since new stuff is so cheap.

i never got the black paint to stick to a muffler for long. i use wrap and maybe try professional coating some time, but it is dear.

I've considered tying to follow each coat of paint with a heat gun, rather than bolting the exhaust back on and burning it off. I think that my chances of having the paint last a little longer would improve if I could cure it between coats.

I've also considered trying to custom-bend a stainless header, but I'm not predicting great success.

I want to take off the ABS off my bike. My bike is like Weldangrind's. Do I just unbolt the ABS and bolt the brake line right to the caliper?
Thanks,
Dan

That's exactly what I did. You'll need to bleed it after.

That's what I thought but weather be sure. I have a craftsman self bleeder tool. One of the best tools my wife bought me. :D

http://www.searsoutlet.com/Brake-Ble...51&mode=seeAll

:thanks: Weld.

I have something very similar that I bought from HF.

You're welcome. :D