FTEY,

Thanks for posting the photographs of your KTN RS3. :) I see you got the stainless steel, exhaust header and the new headlight. :tup:

Did you get forks with rebound adjustment? Did you get a rear hub with a cushion drive? If you have time, please post photos of the left side of your rear wheel, and the tops of the forks.

I have searched, but I can't find the RX3 front hub for sale. I wonder if the Zongshen ZS150GY-10 employs the same front hub? The hubs don't cost much, and the shipping weight is low. ;)

Buchanan's custom spokes cost about $110, delivered. A 21-inch alloy rim costs about $100, delivered, from Rocky Mountain ATV/MC.

I see you're in TN, depending on where in TN maybe you can come check out my Cyclone sometime after I get it home....

21" rim
 

Spud, thats really good of you to post up all that work for us. Thank you!
I would definitely want to add the 21" option at some time when budget allows, but would pay for the hub now if you do a GB or order them so you aren't out the $ for mine.
Please keep me posted and let me know when/if you go forward with this.

Also, I'd really like to go tubeless so a tubeless rim would be they wat to go for me. Wouldn't that lower unsprung weight also to eleminate the tube?
Probably will add the tubliss system on rear for a while, if that system works well. (or whatever is best easiest and reliable system. I like being able to air down and still run when in some offroad situations, also. Tubeless plugs and a compressor will take up less space than tubes and tools I'm thinking when riding out.

Great rider checking our bikes out:)
 

I have a friend, from 40+ yrs ago, one of the best street and off road riders I ever saw ride. He rode a 500 Kawasaki triple in HS and raced mx for the regional Yamaha and Kawasaki teams back in the day.

He is a bit skeptical but I sent him links etc so it'll be interesting to see his comments after reading the tests and blog etc. AND riding my bike when I get it here also:)..

He's one of those guys who'd wheely by at 50+ mph on the Kawasaki, and I know the story is legit cause he passed me doing it. He's stand on the back passenger pegs and just wheely for 1/2 mile or so (it seemed:)!
Unreal..unreal he never had a serious crash on road, ever:) or me!! for that matter. Hope it stays tha way;)! hehe

Not sure abt those. I will get more photos. Btw the malaysian version is on carb. Anyway, my cold start needs lots of time on the start button n throttle before it would get going. Is that normal or is it because the engine is still new?

Please do post more photos. :)

Our bikes are fuel injected, and we haven't received them yet. Therefore, I don't know much about your carburetor. ;) However, I think it's possible the pilot jet of your carburetor is a little too small. You might want to try the next largest size of pilot jet, and see if helps. You might also want to try adjusting the pilot mixture screw on the carburetor.

Generally, on a carb'ed bike
 

With a thousand or more miles on it, the rings seat and tolerances tighten up a bit (in cylinder/combustion chamber area) which will allow a bit more vacuum and also resultant compression increases. Usually that will help atomize the fuel a bit better as it will have faster air moving through carb (and over fuel jets and fuel metering needle) giving you a bit more turbulence there in the carb and intake passages, which makes a more uniform air fuel ratio, burning more completely/easier ignition, more complete burn = faster warm ups and less stumbling, etc.
I generally wait to rejet carbs until after break in due to this situation.
Spuds ideas re fuel screw adjusting and other carb fettling is a good idea anytime, because its easily changable when/if other parameters in the engine change for whatever reason. (free flow exhaust, or air cleaner, egr and or cat converter removal, etc.)

I reread the post
 

Oh, what a great thing those adjustable idle screws are (elsewhere) and used to be here in USA.
Most carbs (all I've ever seen in YEARS here in USA) on any engines bigger than 50cc (exempted engines), have the covers glued or otherwise attached permanently to the carbs so one cannot adjust the low speed (or high speeds) air mixtures! Thats supposedly for EPA, ut a stumbling stalling engine HAS to be putting out unburned HC's, in larger amounts, I'd think than if it was running correctly.
Thats why most engines are efi'ed today. The multihole injectors atomize fuel very well, and can then be run extremely lean, without issue. STarts cleanly, though the ecu allows a bit extra fuel until water temps get to operational temps. Thats also why efi'ed bikes get the terriffic mpg. 70 efi'ed vs 45-50 carbed (like KLx 250 Kawasaki (carbed) vs Yamaha or Honda 250 ds.(efi'ed)

Very informative there.... Thanks thillskier....
Attachment 2331

Attachment 2332

Attachment 2333

FTEY,
Look at the caps to see if they have a adjusting screw in the top cap. Looking at your 2nd pic it doesn't look adjustable.
And the chain side of the rear hub, thats where the cushion hub would be so the chain and sprocket are cushioned from the rear hub to cushion the drive train from stresses. On non-cushioned rear hubs the sprocket is bolted directly to the hub. rj

Thank you for posting the additional photographs. :) If you have time, can you post one more photograph of the left side of the rear wheel, showing the rear sprocket?

U could also try
 

Unscrewing (unbolting)? the top of the carb slide assy,(where the throttle cable goes into the carb) and removing the slide with the throttle cable attached (still) whole thing should simply pull up and out. Then under the spring, there will be a clip holding the needle (spring is pishing down on a washer hiding the clip/needle assy.) Pull the clip off the needle, and RAISE the needle (go ONE ring position LOWER on the needle). This should richen the mixture and make it start run, and cruise much better for now. It may be too rich once its broken with a few more miles on it. It may be perfect if you open the air up a bit, also. You can still do as Spud suggested with the idle screws air adjustments,also. This just gives you a one step more fuel range to work with, which is usually needed on smogged carbed bikes:).

If I had a manual, I could post up a carb (exploded view diagram) that would make this easy to see (and do). Its a 5 minute job, once the slide is out of the carb where you can access it and the needle.

Hope this helps. If your mmanual has a carb diagram, put the slide on a PM or here pic, and I can identify the parts and "walk through" it with you, OK.

The bolts/nuts does not look adjustable. Will take another one from the rear left and post soon.

I will find if theres any pics of the carb. The manual seems like way too simple. Worst case i will just ride the bike to the assembly plant some 25miles from where i live and get them to rectify if its still this way.

Your forks are the same as the ones we will receive in North America. The forks with rebound adjustment are optional equipment. ;) Thank you for taking the time to post the additional photograph. :)

Left side of the rear wheel where the sprocket is. When you guys got your bike, please help to check the gas tank capacity. I know its speced as 16l but seem to be smaller than that.
Attachment 2334

Attachment 2335

FTEY,

Thank you for posting the additional photographs of the rear wheel. :tup:

I believe the fuel tank does hold 16 liters, but the fuel gauge is configured to show empty when 4 liters remain in the tank. This configuration is designed to protect the fuel pump for bikes that have fuel injection. If the fuel level goes below 4 liters, the fuel pump is not cooled by immersion in fuel, and it will overheat, shortening its lifespan. ;)

FTEY,

Can you obtain either a compass, or a pair of calipers?

https://encrypted-tbn2.gstatic.com/s...kynUn&usqp=CAE


http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedi...aliper.svg.png

If so, will you please obtain and post the following measurements for the rear sprocket?

http://www.jtsprockets.com/fileadmin...rge/jtr811.jpg

Let me go and find...... Post soon....

Ftey,
 

You MAY not have any luck with re getting factory and or dealer support re the carb issue. This is because in USA (not sure about regulations and or laws there in Maylasia of course:), they can be fined $20,000 a DAY from the time they adjusted it to an out of federally approved spec (again in USA, especially California, (as their laws are even MORE complicated than Federal EPA's) until it gets adjusted back to original spec/settings.

Thats why its hard to get the bikes running right in USA unless they are fuel injected or you install a jet kit yourself. (which will put the carb and bike out of approved specification, BUT will run like its supposed to, AND give max HP that the engine was designed to make. It also will make the bike run longer since its not on the ragged edge, temperature wise (due to it running lean, from not getting enough fuel). This is also what causes the issues you are trying to work through, ie. running crappy, stalling, bogging and not developing hp and tq when throttle is turned as more air goes into the engine but less fuel than it needs is added to the air.

Its really not hard to rectify this and I'm sure I can help you do it correctly if we can get a "exploded carb view" so I can number/label the parts I'm wanting you to adjust and change. You can then pass the knowledge and proceedures on to your fellow bikers there in your area. ALL the bikes that are sold in that specification will have the same issues, until the fuel adjustments are tweaked. Also, I should add, its not buying a pre fettled jet kit. Basically, you will be doing that, actually developing/engineering yur own (and others) jet kits. You MAY want to take some notes on what you do and settings, jets, screw settings, etc., as you can then write the info down, buy parts needed for the next bike, and ship them the parts already tested and fettled (by you) saving the purchaser a LOT of time and taking the carb apart and reassembling. Most kits sell for 69 to 99.00 here, depending on if it a multi cylinder bike, and or parts needed to get it running as designed (right:).
You WILL be an expert at carb assembly, and dissassembly before you finished figuring the exact settings out, BUT its not difficult, just time consuming, and depending on how much of a perfectionist you are, how much time is taken, also:)! You will REALLy enjoy how much better the bike runs and starts, also the POWER increase. Critically, at low speeds, when negotiating rocks, logs off road obstacles, is when you get the most benefits from this. The ability to get INSTANT response, and GOOD power and TQ to loft the front wheel, slide the back tire around, jump an obstacle, etc. can make the difference in a crash (and injury!) to you and or the bike, ve no surprises, and ride on away:)!

I can get an exploded carb diagram if you can't find one probably...it may not be the exact carb you're using (ours are EFI here, so I'd be guessing on which carb and its hook up etc. on your bike), but similar enough to allow you to get the job done, anyways. Ideally you get an exploded view of the carb on your model of cycle:), of course...

The CSC Blog reports our Zongshen RX3 motorcycles are loaded on the Hanjin container vessel Germany, which is currently taking on more cargo in Pusan, South Korea.

http://img2.fleetmon.com/thumbnails/...3.940x1000.jpg

http://img4.fleetmon.com/thumbnails/...1.940x1000.jpg

Joe reports the vessel is scheduled to "arrive in Long Beach on the 6th of March. Due to the current labor unrest roiling our coast, the berthing date is currently scheduled to be on the 23rd of March."

A tentative, 5-year contract has been negotiated with the West Coast dockworkers.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7hqyRc_xtWs

I found this interesting, long video of someone riding his Minski TRX 300i. :) Starting around the 11:00 mark, I'm sure the rider wished he had mounted knobby tires. ;)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hF_V8r9993Y

:thanks:

Woo Hoo!! Yeesss
 

Spud,
Does this mean we will probably be getting unloaded when the boat gets berther (and I guess, as soon as our # is called after the backlogged boats are all unloaded?). If so, woo hoo:)!
So it looks like the IDEAL time frame of late April early May:)! Perfect weather, and, I hopefully will be DONE with these treatments !!!!!!

Really GREAT news Spud! Thanks for the updates!

Your guess is as good as mine. ;) If I receive my RX3 in May, that is fine with me. :)

Sorry Spud:)
 

I forgot you don't have your "ESP" on today;)! hehe Its easy to forget that because you do seemingly know the answers to every question!

:lol:

If one sticks with the 18-inch front wheel, the Pirelli MT21 is an excellent choice for a front tire. The MT21 is a perennial favorite with dual sport riders, and the size 110/80-18 tire is a good fit for the RX3 front wheel. :)

https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p...t-Rallycross?0

https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/i...p/pirmt21r.jpg

The size 130/90-17 tire is a also an excellent choice for the rear wheel. :)

http://www.tpimotorcycleparts.com/dr...ires/TIRES.jpg

Here are some tires I have mounted on the rear wheel of my Honda XR650L. The Pirelli MT21 is the second tire from the right. ;)

http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/q...estires079.jpg

From left to right, here is the list of tires in the photograph.

1) Mounted on the rear wheel is a K760, TrakMaster tire, size 110/100-18
2) Dunlop, D952, size 110/90-18
3) Pirelli, MT 21, size 120/80-18
4) Kenda, K760, TrakMaster, size 100/100-18

That would be a great way to understand the bike. But still not able to get the carb diagram. Since its still so new here. I can see and understand before go on to meddle with it. Not the most familiar person with engines yet. But a good place to start. Refuelled yesterday and still getting 8L to full. But consumption is not good at all. I managed only 85km on the he last fill. Could it be because the bike is still new.

The RX3 is a nice looking bike....
But at 175kgs it's the same weight
as my XT660R with 1/4 of the HP..
Hope the 175kgs is with all the boxes etc...

Yes, 175 kg (385 lbs) includes the 3 panniers, racks, engine guards, skid plate and windshield. I don't know if it includes fuel, oil and coolant.

Full specs here.

Mpg issue
 

I suspect these engines are VERY "tight" when new, and will "break in" over a fairly large amount of miles (as far as mpg increases). My Cummins powered Dodge took 20,000! mies to get within 1/2 mpg of what it gets now. Took another 30,000 after that (till about 50,000 miles) to get to 20mpg hwy (at 65mph)! So it can take a long time to wear in all components in drivetrain. The gears, bearings, and all other moving parts all contribute some portion to friction losses, and will take much longer than the main rotating engine parts, but don't affect mpg as much as ring seal, and combustion related parts.

That mpg (or rather L per km;) seems low, BUT until it gets 1000 miles or more, just drive it and it will improve, probably by a large amount.
If its still not doing what it should after 1000-2000 miles or so, I'll find a exploded view for you (or maybe someone with a ZOng 200 and a manual, can link an exploded view of their carb, and I can walk you through it. The 200's carb should be very similar to yours, only a bit larger sized, so SHOULD look the same and rejetting/adjusting/fine tuning very similar.

I know Spud has rejetted his 200, as have others who posted it on other threads on chinariders, I'm sure.
You kn0w, THATS an idea also, find the mods thread for the 200, and read the jetting/carb adjustment section to see if you feel confident to do the job. PArts should be available from the same suppliers (taobao) Id guess. Hopefully someone can chime in here for you with that helpfull info.

You'd be surprised how big a difference the miles makes, and then just using what you have on the bike, but changing adjustments, will make re economy, drivability, and tq at or right off idle to mid rpm's 5-6000 or so) (most important re riding and mpg).

I am quite sure you can do it, when if you decide you MUST :) do it;)!
Believe me, this type thing WILL be calling you and talking to you when riding the bike, guaranteed. hehe I'm sure every other rider on here will agree with that statement thats worked on their bikes...:hehe:

By the way, good decision:)
 

Re not "meddling with it until you do your research, and get a comfort level with the task. Its hard to mess anything up permanently, but there are lots of very small items that need to be kept up with and replaced from whence they came also:)..

Many on here have successfully fettled their carbs, if not all. Its one of those tasks that can nearly always be improved some, however, and if you modify other things, will need to be done again after the other parts are installed (or removed, even in some cases:) hehe.

I suspect Spud has his 200 running very well by now:):tup:

Thanks. I suspect i will have the itch sooner or later. Talking to u guys here is already like attending classes. Great bunch of information im getting here. After yesterday and today's ride out, bike feels a little better. Cold start was not as difficult as before. It gets going in a couple of tries.

Read Spud's mod on his 200 and some other modifications elsewhere. Sort of understand the basics of it. I think i need to find ot the jet size of my stck 1st. A couple of questions. Does a bigger sized jet makes it run leaner or richer? 2nd, i read about adjusting he clip up or down. What does that do?

Larger jets make the fuel/air mixture richer. The clip doesn't affect starting, it affects the mid-throttle fuel mixture. ;)

Please start a new thread on this topic, here, in our Dual Sport Forum. You can give your thread a title such as 'Zongshen RX3 Carburetor Problem.' Starting a new thread on this topic will give your questions more exposure, and you will get more replies. :) I suggest you include some photographs of your carburetor in the first post of your new thread.

Our experience on the three US test bikes has been that they break in quickly. They feel new (obviously) on the first couple of rides, but they like to rev and they are very smooth. Our blue bike now has about 1200 miles on it and the yellow one has about half that, and they both feel great. My bike returned 71.43 mpg on the ride through Joshua Tree National Park a couple of weeks ago.

http://californiascooterco.com/blog/...SC0040-650.jpg

The Hanjin Germany has left Korea and is currently en route to Long Beach, California. The dockworkers are back at work. Things are looking good. As we learn more, we'll post it on the CSC blog.