You can easily damage the bearings while driving them out. Therefore, it's usually best to install new bearings after removing the old ones. I always pack new bearings with extra grease before I install them. ;)

The front wheel bearings seem to be well manufactured. As long as the front wheel bearings turn freely, I would not replace them.

The sprocket carrier bearing only receives light loads. As long as it turns freely, I would not replace it.

The 6302 and 6202 bearings in the rear hub are more problematic. Knowing what I now know, I would probably replace both of them within the first 5,000 miles. I would choose quality bearings, and pack them with extra grease. ;)

Excellent points Spud and pyoungbl .....so we're looking at the 2 bearings and a high quality greese......now to decide on the better bearings and grease.....Ahhhhh not to mention the time spent bonding with your new best friend! Priceless

bearing driver
 

I thought this was kinda neat .. A Rawl-Bolt bearing driver....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t7VQnNfqJtA

I posted up a while ago what we call those in "Merica"

"Rawl Bolts" = "Anchor Bolts" ;)

Using an anchor bolt is ingenious. :) However, nothing is faster than using the following tools. :tup:

I prefer to drive out wheel bearings using a Motion Pro bearing driver and split collet. The bearings in the rear wheel of the RX3 can be removed using the following parts. :tup:

http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0260/

https://ff3d8e6495061f28a832-a7869bb...ms/08-0260.jpg

http://www.motionpro.com/product/08-0264

https://ff3d8e6495061f28a832-a7869bb...ed/08-0264.jpg

Just in case someone hasn't used this method to remove wheel bearings, here's how it works. ;)

http://www.dansmc.com/wheel_bearing_remove.jpg

A kit would be nice ... but the other is cheaper and damaging bearings that are being replaced wouldn't be my concern. . However I readily admit that if this were something I felt I might be doing more often then by all means I like the kit!

Spud, will the 17mm driver work for both front and back??

Checked my wheel bearings at 8500 miles and they look good. I failed removing the bearing using concrete bolts.

Great tips, Spud.

I have never greased new sealed bearings before like that but it's a good idea.

I didn't know you can remove and replace the seals without ruining them.

Did the bike ride funny? In retrospect were there any warning signs to look out for?

I should invest in a driver kit. I do it old school. Screwdriver held on a tangent and a hammer. Installation with rubber mallet, grease, and a socket.

I would never reinstall a previously removed bearing.

BTW only you would happen to have the correct sized units on the shelf ready to go. You rock, Spud.

No, the bike didn't ride differently, and my fuel mileage was good. :shrug: However, in retrospect, it was harder to turn the rear wheel when lubricating the drive chain. ;)

As long as you have rubber seals (2RS), you won't ruin the seals by removing them to add grease.

The Zongshen RX3 uses the same bearings as my Zongshen Sierra 200, so I had them in stock. ;)

$22 for five bearings?
 

What did I do wrong?

6202 2RSJ EM Quality 15x35x11 Sealed C3 Japan Made Bearing
$6.88
6302 2RSJ EM Quality 15x42x13 Sealed C3 Japan Made Bearing
$8.37Qty 3 = $25.11
6004 2RSJ EM Quality 20x42x12 Sealed C3 Japan Made Bearing
$10.95

United States, CA, 92029
Tax: $3.43

Total:

$61.54

I used RC bearings.

http://www.rcbearings.com/

I'm sorry; I made a mistake in my previous post. You need a 15 mm split collet, which is Motion Pro part #08-0264. This split collet will work for the front wheel bearings as well. :)

I got SKC bearings from eBay and ended up paying less than $30 shipped to so cal.

Thanks spud, I think I might just bite the bullet and buy the set.