Thanks to the posts in this thread I have now adjusted my rear shock. A definite benefit to the ride feel.:tup:

loosened off 1 1/2 turns , think I need to up my pie intake :D

Good for you, Kat. :tup: Thanks for letting us know the results. :)

so...what is the slow/fast dial on the bottom of the shock for - does it actually adjust the rebound damping of the shock a noticeable amount?

Yes, the screw at the bottom of the shock absorber is used to adjust the rebound damping. Turning the screw counter-clockwise allows for less damping, and a faster rebound. Turning the screw clockwise allows for more damping, and a slower rebound. The rebound damping of the RX3 shock absorber has 16 positions, and works well. :) Adjusting the screw does result in a noticeable difference in rebound damping.

adjusting rear shock spring
 

i got lucky,,the locking collar with the set screw was facing foward,,,so after removing both side panels i was able to reach in with a small ''L'' shaped allen wrench and loosen the set screw.Oh forgot to mention bike was up on the centerstand,,,,at this point i was able to just reach in and turn the collar counterclockwise loosening the spring ,as i thought it was much too harsh.Mine was set at about the middle of the of the threaded area. i could have loosened more ,,cause its slightly better,,but still not great.

Hey AZRider George - hope you're still popping in here - do you happen to know what kind of shock spanner wrench you have? the one I bought is too big - and absolutely useless for trying to turn the locking collar on the RX3. While I had the side panel and seat off the bike earlier today to install a battery tender pigtail, I went ahead and loosened the allen nut and was able to turn the spring by hand to reduce the preload - I was not able to turn it to completely remove the preload, and I lost count of how many times I turned it because at first it didn't look like it was actually advancing the collar up the threaded shaft at all. I kept turning, hoping to get to 0 preload so I could try to start from 0 preload, but eventually got to a point where perhaps my hands fatigued out - or just got too sweaty (it was getting hot in the garage). There is definitely a lot more rider sag on the bike now....hopefully I didn't back it off too far :P In any case, in order to turn that locking collar I think I'm going to be needing a proper wrench - I think I'd rather go that route than a punch + hammer.

Sorry Sprite, but I don't have an actual size as I used the spanner from my Valkyrie. If you have a Cycle gear or similar store close by, ride the RX-3 there and have them match it to the bike. Most shocks on bikes are of a similar size, did you buy one intended for a car or truck?

Thanks George - There isn't a Cycle Gear close enough for me to ride the bike to (still getting comfortable on the streets and cars around) - but I can drive my car to one :P

I suspect the one I ordered was for an ATV, though when I read the reviews, I thought I saw some folks mentioning it working for their bike(s)

ah well, maybe I will have lucked out and I have the spring set where I want it now - one could hope....

Loosening the preload is easier than tightening the preload. Also, the job becomes much easier if you remove the rear wheel. ;)

The space available for turning a spanner wrench is very limited. ;) If you wear gloves and remove the rear wheel, I think it is easiest to turn the shock spring by hand. However, I own this punch and chisel set sold by Harbor Freight, and I have used it on the RX3 shock spring collar. ;)

http://www.harborfreight.com/12-piec...set-66337.html

One of the small round punches perfectly fits the holes in the shock spring collar. You can insert this punch in a hole, and use the punch as a lever to turn the shock spring. :) Also, you can easily turn the collar by striking the larger pencil punches with a hammer. I can affirm the pencil punches will not damage the collar. ;)

Maybe this pic will help.

That wrench is certainly short enough to fit in the limited space available. :tup: Thanks for posting the photo, George. :)

I don't own a shock spanner wrench; all the ones I have seen for sale are much longer than that wrench. I suppose one could also purchase a longer wrench, and cut it to the desired length. ;)

Indeed, that photo is helpful - unfortunately the 2 I saw on the cycle gear site seem like they might both be too large.

Seriously, I did test the Harbor Freight (HF) punch and chisel set mentioned in post #69 of this thread. ;) Both the round punch and the pencil punches worked well, and neither damaged the locking ring. :) However, I abandoned the punches when I discovered it was much faster for me to turn the shock spring by hand. ;)

:) thanks spud. That may be the route I have to go since I definitely can't seem to turn the spring to tighten it by hand

Spud, here's what I did for my aging back to get it up on center stand easier out in the field.
http://www.chinariders.net/showthrea...d=1#post187142

The Husky jack would be more challenging to take out on a ride I must admit, rj