Key Recieved.
 

Thanks @tknj99 the 4* timing key has made it 180* around the planet to my mail box.

I would like to get my bike running stock before attempting to install it so I know how it feels running before hand, but really thankful for the opportunity to acquire a key and having the possibility of doing it later down the road.

Appreciated.

Squeezing in the Horn
 

Finding the permanent home for the horn.

Tried upfront under the headlight but to the side of the wire terminal holder box, which made it imbalanced symmetry and kept me from committing to the sore thumb like placement.

So decided on the under the tank typical tuck away. Took advantage of the coil bracket mount and used the same fixing point to hold the horn, enough of a tag end on the horn bracket to twist into orientation.

I like the subtleness, but enough of a poke around the corner to see it. and transmit its honk unrestricted.

No I did not paint the horn diaphragm to colour match it came like that. But I did choose it for that reason.

Hey JerryHawk250, appreciate all the thumbs ups... it's not necessary, but I do appreciate the ongoing motivational boost.

I recall watching 1 of your older YT vids it might not have been specifically regarding the oil cooler, but I noticed you had yours installed side mount, Which is what i would have to do to install a cooler myself as you can see my XL does not have the clearance for the usual front mount due to the fender.
Just wondering if you could provide any information or details in regards to the way you affixed the bracket/clamps to the frame?

I havn't got a cooler yet, still waiting for the bike to run before paying for additional mods.

Looks like there might be space for an oil cooler between the engine and your front down frame member above the header but then pictures can be deceiving?

Yup China Rider 27,
the thought had crossed my mind but, Because I have tip the engine forwards on the bottom rear mount to remove the rocker cover and adjust valves that location is basically a no go zone from a ease of maintenance point of view. I'd like to keep some air space/flow around the cooling fins. The fender is kinda wide so from an efficiency point of view other than the increase in oil capacity I don't think a front mount would do much and just heat soak from the engine.

A side mount would receive direct fresh airflow and perhaps counter balance the bikes weight distribution caused by the exhaust system bias.

Downside would be the risk of damage to the cooler form less protection.

I considered front mount but I am pretty much set on the side mount situation for my personal taste.

I think you might be overthinking it with the oil cooler. These bikes didn't come from the factory with an oil cooler, and the stock motor had higher compression, a bigger cam, and more hp. Unless you're planning on keeping it mostly below 20 km/h, I would imagine it will be plenty cool, unless you're planning on racing it. I would get a cht gauge if you're really worried about it, or an infrared thermometer, but honestly, if it's sufficiently rich, it should be plenty cool. You have to understand that there are people using these motors in Africa to pull a much heavier trike, loaded down with stuff going to market, with a top speed of maybe 50 km/h, and there's still no oil cooler on them. Compared to the average use for a CG motor, this thing will be living an easy life.

That's true franque. I have no doubts on the robust capability of the engine.
However I plan to cover Australian distances and deal with Australian summer temps +35*C and stretch out oil change intervals.

Also in Africa there are probably many dead bikes for spare parts if their engine does blow up.

I like tinkering. I have liquid cool PC with the radiator installed under the floor of the house to keep my room cool (refer to summer temps)

I have a catch can on my lawn tractor.

Also have intentions of running my 97 Mitsubishi L400 Delica 2.8 TD IDI on filtered waste vegetable cooking oil.

Do I need an oil cooler...probaly not, am I going to install 1 anyway probably so.

;)

I say it every time people bring up the "you don't need an oil cooler" remarks.

Do you need one? No, not really. As pointed out, they survive quite fine without them in harsh conditions.

Does it make a difference? Absolutely, without a single question it does.

I have experienced: much much much longer oil life, reduced clutch fade issues, reduced clutch material in the oil (even with my fat ass on the bike and tall road gearing). I don't even live in an extreme heat environment, even though our summers here can top the 100F/38C scales. I will never talk a person out of doing an oil cooler.

The CG engine was designed to take abuse, but that doesn't mean it can't benefit from being pampered a bit either.

Interesting old timey insight jefffery. Nice one :D

It might allow enough wiggle room to remove the rocker cover engine mounted, I'll definitely take that onboard for a possible 'to do' job.

Think I'll try to get the roadworthy inspection passed and the bike registered before attacking the frame with the grinder again though.

XLsior, very nice work. Keep up the great work and postings.

Roy

No worries, I understand. It just seemed like you were overly concerned about it, in a way that might keep you from riding the bike. It's something you could put on later if you just wanted to ride it now (my recommendation, at least so you can get some seat time). I reread and saw you're wanting to get it running first, :tup:

Where I'll be living, Guinea, that's definitely not the case, unless there is literally a hole in the crankcase.

There's not much of a maintenance culture there, and there is not much in the way of knowhow in terms of "properly" (as a westerner might understand it) repairing things. Though it's not something I've directly witnessed, an example might be, if the chain was thrown, putting a hole in the crankcase, a rope and a rag might be used to keep the oil in, and as it would still leak, the owner would continue to top it up as needed.

I've seen wheels with bearings so shot that the wheels were visibly wobbling from side to side a good 8-10cm.

On the other hand, they can improvise a way to get just about anything running, like the show "Bush Mechanics", from your country.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X8WfjkgqK9A&t=100s - For those of you who haven't seen it, it's worth a watch.

I'm not certain if you're aware, but you have basically the highest-profile valve cover. There are multiple CG125 valve covers available, if you google it, you can see the different varieties available, perhaps the one that slopes forward (the other main kind I've seen on Chinese bikes), you might be able to pull the valve cover without pulling the engine mounting bolts. While searching, I found this, perhaps it might kill two birds with one stone: https://www.ooracing.com/oil-cooler-...-cg-style.html

Hi franque,
yes I've seen the Bush Mechanics 1 of Australia few indigenous/aboriginal produced TV aired series back in the day. It's a good watch.

Indeed the CG engine was developed for a world without maintenance. However in Australia a new replacement engine would be $800 there are just not the volume of stock in Oz to bring prices down to point where spare parts are just around the corner. Oil is cheap engines are expensive. JBweld, wire and hose clamps are a part of any emergency break down kit here in Australia. Some people can afford to be hard on the gear I am not 1 of them.

From what research Ive done the rocker cover oil coolers tend to leak and a considered inferior to the screen relocated sump feed CG/CB coolers.

I'll probably end up spinning the flappy sander, shaving the frame and polishing the dome as Jeffery suggested at some point. but honestly tipping the engine forwards isn't that big a deal to adjust valve lash.

Regardless, you could get a different valve cover that is lower profile, something like this might work: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32672972781.html?

cover ups, but not outs.
 

Its always good to have options. Is it another $25 I want to throw at the project...not right now. the beveled sides are encouraging so thanks for finding that franque.

Good to know where the oil galley runs in the cover, so to avoid breaching it with the sander. However I think the main issue is the bike frame.

I tried buying an CG125 cover gasket to replace the old factory 1 but it appeared to be to small. So just assumed CG125/150 covers were smaller than 200/250 and not interchangable.

It could just be that the rubber shrunk, which can be remedied by dipping the gasket/o-ring in gas, which will cause it to swell. I've never heard of different valve covers for different capacity engines, I think that the thing I linked earlier said CG125/150 because there aren't any CG street/dirt bikes that I know of imported into Europe, ooracing's home market, that come from the factory bigger than a 125.

I think that's because with the graduated licensing system here, you have 50s, 125s, and then 47hp limited (I think like Aus?), and then unlimited.

No one here is jumping from a 125 to a 200, or the '250' of many CGs because it isn't a meaningful step up here.

There's virtually no 200cc motorcycles of any type here, I think largely because of that. I'll do some further research and see if there are differences in the 200 vs 125. I would think that more likely than not the 125-200 are all the same, while the '250' could be different because it uses larger stud spacing for the bigger bore. No sense in having three different specifications of cylinder heads when only two are necessary.

Here is a link to the side mount oil cooler I did on my HAWK completely based on Jerry's installation. He has a video on his website too. Piece of angle iron (bike shipping metal) on the lower engine bolts. I think Jerry now has two of these one on the other side. This is the cooler by the way thought would go good between the engine and frame (couple quick release bolts outa the way for valve adjustment) 4" X 8"X1.75".

http://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=23275

Hi China Rider 27, This will likely be the oil cooler type I plan to use.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32946054886.html?

Will {definitely} order after the bike is running and passed inspection and made street legal...

Ahh I see now, Don't think i'll be going down the angle iron bracket mount.

I probably could just about squeeze it upfront but as I expressed I don't think it will be as effective given the parameters. for me that area is no go zone...

I'm totally fine with the side mount, sorry if it came across as problematic. I just wanted to know how others were attaching it as the kits are all set of for front mounts.

Will have to get those oil feed lines shortened that's for sure.

It makes sense franque, obliviously for production costs in manufacturing using as many of the same parts interchangeably maximizes profitability. Searching for certain parts in the 200/250 often shows no results as its clear now that the 125/150 moniker probably suits all applications that are not effected by stroke/bore.

As an update the rocker cover you linked scratched an itch so to speak, and I inevitably ended up ordering 1 out of curiosity in the hope of making maintenance a little easier...So we'll know for sure is the covers are indeed universal fitment.

Protect ya lid
 

Today's mail delivery.

My choice was based around safety, cost, colour, weight and comfort of use.

I went and tried on other helmets at my local moto gear emporium.

but ended up purchasing online due to color availability.

I wanted white as its shown to be the safest colour in non snow climates. and cooler in sunny weather (refer to summer temps)

Adventure/Dualsport type ece/dot approved.

Can't afford Japanese makes like Shoei $1k. But didn't want to scrape the bottom of the barrel in terms of safety under $200.

Bell ticked all the boxes with MIPS and less weight. Seems to have a pretty decent reputation and aftermarket support, accessories and replacement parts. $350aud shipped

Snug fit very happy.

Rocker Cover Over Under
 

So the CG125 rocker cover with beveled sides arrived today.

Compared to the Zongshen factory original its definitely slimmed down. and noticeably lighter...so some minor weight reduction benefits.

But the question is can I install it while the engine is mounted in position.

Well...to do so I did indeed have to trim/sand down 1 of the fins on the cover and also grind back about 5mm off the frame as was suggested.

But yes we have "Great Success"

Kinda happy that paid off.

Seeing as I've been hitting a few snags too.

The CnC red throttle also arrived however the specific cable length the seller had shown was not what I received so made a dispute and got a partial refund to cover a new replacement throttle cable the correct length...what a faff. I'll follow up with that when the new cable arrives.

Slightly Bigger.
 

So comparing the covers,

The CG125 does use the same 3 bolt locations but the actual footprint is slightly smaller than the ZS original.

I am wondering if Zongshen might use a proprietary sized gasket.

As I also compared the CG125 "High Quality" gasket with the black ZS gasket.

Well it's confirmed that the CG125 cover does fit a CG250 head.

The new Cover came with a pre installed gasket but not bolts...Something to keep in mind.

Honestly, for the money the Bell helmets are pretty darn good. I have had my share of expensive Schuberth and Shoei helmets in the past, and this time around I decided to get a more budget friendly helmet, so I picked up a Bell SRT (SNELL rated) and then plonked the money down on one of the transitions face shields. So far I have been nothing but impressed with the comfort and quality of the helmet. It's a tad louder than my Schuberth was, but it also breathes a lot better. The transitions face shield is a nice addition. It doesn't get super dark, but it darkens up more than enough to make riding without needing sunglasses possible.

That valve cover clearance is definitely tight. At least you found a relatively cheap and easy solution to the fitment issue.

Glad to see it worked out for you, keep up the good work!

Gratuated licensing / Australian L.A.M.S
 

It's a bit Different down here franque,
basically all 4 strokes 250cc and under are learner approved (which is why I chose the xl185/cg250 as a viable learner project bike) however there are also higher displacement up to 650cc power/weight approved bikes that can also be rode on a learner/RE license...DR650 for example. Above 650cc basically needs a higher tier level of license training. The list of LAMS (Learner Approved Motorcycle Scheme) bikes are available to see via the aus.gov website

https://www.qld.gov.au/transport/lic...arner-approved

if anyone is interested in how things are done in Australia.Some States allow 50cc scooters/mopeds to be operated on a drivers license but not a motorcycle specific license.

Excellent project
 

went through every single page totally like it..

Thanks vickytulla, glad you've enjoyed it all the way up till now. It's been a year so far but it was never a rush project. My home renovations have taken priority and the bikes is just a time filler and healthy distraction.

Good luck with the C70/180cc swap.

Brackets on the Back.
 

Just sorting out the Muffler and jumbo tool tube attachments.

Used some standard 5mm thick aluminum flat bar and utilized the most appropriate factory frame mount locations.

Switching out hardware to SS allen button heads where applicable.

The jumbo burrito tube (from AliX) was larger than anticipated but does not throw out aesthetic symmetry when balanced with the muffler side. Should be able to hold a fair few tools, spare and emergency fuel.

Thankfully both clear view the rear indicators.

That the original muffler that came on it?

That is a period correct after market muffler that did come with the bike, It just so happened to meld with the CG250 header with a little welding at the slip fit.

That's a cool old muffler, love it!

Throttle cables R Us
 

I appear to be unwittingly collecting throttle cables.

The 2 silver jobbies came with the throttles. both too long.

The factory original in black connected to the PZ27 has the wrong length cable throw.

The Red cable was ordered to fix the issue but i failed to read the product info and received the 960mm total length including the 120mm throw.

I thought it was 960mm+120mm...

Ugh well I'll get it right eventually. Think I'll stick to factory black this time.

Maybe we can swap some cables and see how it turns out as I have quite the collection too lol.

If you have a cable with too much free length you could always cut the barrel off, shorten it as needed, and solder a new one in place.

Tucking the Tail
 

So since switching to 12v and not really attached to the baboons backside Honda factory tail/brake lights and reg plate holder. I opted to go custom.

This is prototype (1) proof of concept though I think the 2mm thick aluminum sheet sill be adequate.

So take this as a functioning first iteration.

I found this LED reflector that suited dimensions...I also got a round circle type but decided not to use it.

This is just the top half reflector bracket. the bottom license plate holder will be separate and sandwich the rear fender.

Photos shows the basic steps. with the addition of some cut foam.. I think it might be from a yoga mat.

The bare wires will be sleeved final install.

Tucked up Noice.
 

Sorry about the blurry photo but it was taken up against a wall blind and i couldn't be bothered taking a better snap.

Mk2 Brake Reflector Bracket Refinement.
 

OK, so it didn't take long before I felt I could do better on the bracket.

Made some adjustments and tweaks to a better fit and finish.

I don't have a profession metal folder so the creases weren't as sharp as they could be but for hand made charm, think it's a pass.

Definitely less of a scrap metal aesthetic.

That is some good quality hand fabrication in my eyes. Be proud of it.

That is a fine piece of work! I would try to round those corners at the top right and left to look more like the fender corners.

Those corners shouldn't be there its just the result of a poor bend, I tried to take the edge off but just seems to make it worse, though I understand your thinking. And might try a touch of the file.

Plate Holder.
 

The second piece of the tail tidy and function mk1 has been fabricated.

Took the same cues from the top piece and kept the curves.

Just had to go off plate dimensions, the bike has not passed an inspection or roadworthy yet to have actual plates.

Chicken/egg.

So there is an LED brake and indicator strip.
2 LED plate illumination fixing bolts.
Red LED tail light for added road safety and any issue if the LED strip does not pass road legal specifications.

Still got to make the rear guard/battery holder then its onto wiring up literal loose ends.

Rounded
 

Took the edge of the corners.

Also here the round LED reflector version for comparison if anyone is interested.

Same single center threaded bolt fixing with 3 wire running/brake internal LED.