Anyone have any input on tires? I have the 17" front and rear, 2.5" front, 3" rear. I was going to do a Kenda 270 4.6 on the front and a 5.10 on the rear. The only ones that make a tire specifically to fit on the front is the Shinko 244's in a 17". I've been told a rear tire can still go on the front and it's not a huge deal. Any other ideas?

Buy from bookstore such as http://www.ebay.com/itm/232180193227 vs hefty int'l shipping bill: http://legacy.chinesemotorcycleparts...l_shipping.php

The Kenda is on the left the Shinko is on the right. If you are looking for some off road traction either will work and both are copies of the IRC tires that Honda used in the late 70's and early 80's on the XL and XR bikes.

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Here is the XF on a ride in N. AZ with 244's last weekend with the wife. I tried the AZ no helmet law thing for about 50 feet while I crossed a dry creek. They do great in rock, gravel, dry dirt imo. They seem to be a good tire all around, although I have not used them much in mud which I have read may not be the 244's strong point.

The 244's are sold as Shinko on Amazon, but the sidewalls say "Golden Boy". They are in ok shape after about 3,000 miles of mainly on road riding. The front tire is starting to show some unusual wear; the knobbies start to wear on one end only, making the tire resemble a saw blade if you look at it from the side. The stock tires did the same thing so maybe this is due to suspension or tire pressure?

I went ahead and ordered the Kenda 270's, 4.6 for the front and 5.10 for the rear. I'll have to see what my local shop will charge to put them on. A buddy said they were going to charge him 160$ to put them on his R6! They should show up tomorrow with a couple other goodies, pair of gloves, and a couple jersey's. I ordered everything from motorcyclesuperstore.com. Good call on the helmet, I feel naked without my gear on. I went with a buddy on his KLR and another on his GROM and we hit some trails (I was on my DRZ). KLR had BALD Kenda 270s, my DRZ and other buddies Grom had street tires, so it was pretty sketchy. lol It was my first time riding on dirt at all so it was doubly weird! Been waiting to get the new tires on the SSR before I get out and start doing breakin on her. Does yours have the safety switch on it that keeps it from being started with the kickstand down? I hate that. Everything else, i've just been trying to research parts-wise so I can get the bike setup how I want. I'm wondering if I need to tweak the suspension for my weight? My fat-ass is around 220 I think.

Looks like fun! The 270 should be a good tire. I paid $80 to have my 244's installed. I plan to do my next tire change on my own.

The kickstand switch can be unplugged so you can start the bike with the kickstand down. The switch is a black plastic one located at the top of the kickstand. The connection is not far from the switch. Unplug it and you can start the bike with the stand up or down.

yea, that was my plan to unplug it/remove it. They didn't think that through very well. My other two bikes i can start with the kickstand down as long as it's in neutral. Having to sit on your bike just to warm it up before riding is silly!

I'm looking forward to more about this bike. I wish we could get more reviews. Anyone know the diffence between this and the CSC TT250? Like which one has better quality and finish etc???

While I do not have an SSR XF250, I do have the Qlink XP 200 and they are made by the same company and share probably 80+% of the same parts. I also have a TT250 and have completely tore it down. Here's my take on both bikes:

The TT250 is the nicest Hondoid that I've seen, to date. It has the nicest fit and finish of any Hondoid I've seen. It comes with extra doo-dads such as LED blinkers, 300 watt stator, etc... That said, it still has many Old World aspects to it, such as the same old weak box metal swing arm Hondoids have used forever. Don't over-torque the axle or you'll smash it. Some of the items are still not "top grade" such as some of the hardware. It still uses heavy steel rims. The seat, while comfortable, has some of the cheesiest upholstery I've seen. Seems durable but it's very thin and stretchy. it's a single piece and is stretched over the entire banana.

Mechanically, some of the fasteners still did not line up and some of the holes needed to be chased with a tap or they would have stripped. There was a lack of "Chinese Butter Bolts" on the TT that I've dealt with on older Hondoids. The CG motor, while proven very reliable and "tried and true", is an old-tech pushrod (like an old Panhead) and is NO powerhouse. Everyone here goes to great lengths to try to ring out whatever extra power that may be hidden inside.....though it does exhibit a nice mid-range bump in the power curve.

The Qlink (SSR/QuinQi) is the real deal. I'd put it up against a Suzuki DR200 any day of the week. The fit and finish is top level, as are the materials that it's built with. The welds appear as they were done by a tradesman as opposed to a drunk 5 year old. The seat upholstery is rugged and durable and is a stitched, three piece unit that's "fit" to the seat. I'm not sure about the SSR but on my Qlink, the top panel of the seat upholstery (that you sit on) is of a thicker, woven mesh that breathes.

The plastics are made of the thick, yet flexible stuff that the Japanese bikes have always used, not that old ridged, thin stuff that cracks and breaks after a short time. The paint quality is excellent and after all the years, I have yet to have a chip or material failure. There is no orange peel. The Q has the best front brake of any CB I've had, though back then the rear was still a heavy drum. The SSR has rear disk. Even back then, the Q came with a braided brake line. The rims are alloy and the spokes are stainless, creating wheels that hold their appearance and more importantly, lessen unsprung weight. Also, the welded aluminum swingarm (that has link suspension) not only reduces unsprung weight, but it a thing of beauty. The weld work is amazing.

The motor in my Q is a Suzuki 200cc overhead cam with a real Mikuni CV carb. The SSR XF 250 has the TU250 Suzuki motor in it. The jury is out if these are "clones" or the real deal.....as the QuinQi factory actually MAKES the Suzuki motors for Suzuki, along with small displacement Kawasaki and KTM motors...and have for a long time. The airbox is of such a nice design with a large, foam, easily accessible filter, it doesn't need to be swapped for a pod filter.

While my Qlink (at 200cc) is no fire breather, it will take the TT250 in a straight line, even with the pipe, Mikuni, pod filter and proper jetting in the TT. Q has been jetted and has a different muffler but is stock otherwise. I have yet to ride the SSR XF250 so I don't know its performance characteristics, but it's in the plan. Q has always had USD forks and a gas shock.

It just depends on what you're looking for and wanting. The SSR (as was Q) is a more expensive CB than the Hondoids at about twice the price per unit....but you don't compare the SSR to the Hondoid and say "Man...that's expensive." You compare it to the DR200 and say "Man....that's half the price of the Suzuki and it's a nicer bike."

Shinko E700... come in 4.60/17 & 5.10/17... 120/80/17 , 130/80/17.
far better tyre than what you are looking at for duel sport use...
I get over 3000km from a rear on the XT660R and it can rip a tyre to sheads
on the road if yer heavy handed on the throttle...

A 5.10 - 130 is a dam big tyre for a 250....

http://i1244.photobucket.com/albums/...1/SAM_0161.jpg


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Awesome review.It definitely sounds like the SSR is way more of a bike than the TT250s

if that is the case... you would think they would be the real deal...
Suzuki etc would take a dim veiw of the copying there motors for
there own gain....



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How are they off road, just with a smaller wheels? It looks like it handles well.

I'm going to look at new 2016 ones today!! Can't wait. Tell you what I think.

Maybe we will luck out and have a fuel gauge in the 17s