+1 on Weld's comments.

I'm proud to be a Chinarider, but the brand embossed on the cover detracts from your project. Maybe Bondo over the markings and sand it and refinish it? Maybe do the above and have 'Indian' CNC'ed instead and repaint?

The switchgear on my 1972 CB175 is also aluminum.

I'm a big fan of Zongshen motorcycles, and Zongshen engines. :) However, I must agree with my fellow moderators. I'm sure you can easily cover the Zongshen name on the right crankcase cover. ;)

Gotcha. My thinking was that I wouldn't make an obvious cover-up of the fact that I was using a Chinese engine. But no need to draw attention to it, right?

I went ahead and ordered some pedals based on Cheesy's recommendation. They are actually very similar to period items. Who knew they had a pedal museum?

http://www.speedplay.com/index.cfm?f...almuseum.quill

The pedals Chessy referenced do look period correct.

Check out this artwork:

http://kpr.craigslist.org/mcy/4427220651.html

With some quick searching, I found the right side cover with no markings for $16.06 US + shipping: http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=...id=17715527708

And an extra-capacity clutch cover with no markings for $7.71 US + shipping: http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=...id=37369381298

Open those links in Google Chrome, and allow it to translate for you.

Nice finds, Weld! :tup: I love Taobao. :D

Thanks for the tip Weldangrind. So this Taobao... the translations are hilarious!

"Guangzhou Queer motorcycle accessories"
"The baby looked at people still watched"
"The person who bought also bought a baby"

I almost spit out my coffee! I take it you have experience buying from the site?

I will probably try a little bondo first but at those prices it might not be worth the time. I've already acquired parts from at least three continents I may be up for another buying experience. :)

I place the blame squarely on Google Translate. The most unfortunate translation I've found was for a seat cover. It came back as foreskin.

I have indeed purchased on Taobao in the past, as have a few other members here. I've used www.taobaotrends.com as an agent a few times, and their service is prompt and economical. I recommend that you set up an account at TBT (which is free) and familiarize yourself with their site. We'll be happy to guide you.

Have you sorted out footpegs yet? It occurred to me that you might benefit by using the tapped holes underneath the engine as a footpeg mount, much like the XR50. This is an example of what I mean, although this specific mount is not likely to fit: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Footpegs-Mou...336d55&vxp=mtr The pegs could easily be swapped for something more period correct, once the mount is in place. it would be ideal in terms of proximity to the shifter.

That setup not only gives you a footpeg mount, but also a kickstand mount. If you can't find what you're looking for online, it would be simple to fabricate. I might have a pit bike footpeg mount laying around, so I could compare it with a motor like yours if that helps. let me know.

I've looked at that exact mount!

based on that I've already got some ideas about making a bracket to attach the bottom loop of the frame. Attaching to the engine mounting plates might be a little vibrate-y, since they are bolted to the engine but isolated from the frame.

First I'll get it running and test how difficult it is to shift from the crank pedals. I expect I'll eventually opt for a stationary footpeg but we'll see.

How do you intend to operate the rear brake?

Currently I'm planning on adapting a dual cable kit for both brakes on the right handle. If I can't make it work, or required force is excessive, I'll need to look at fabbing up a pedal. I'll definitely need a footpeg for that.

If you installed a footpeg mount on the bottom of the motor, I wonder how you might be able to isolate vibration. Perhaps even some rudimentary rubber bushings made from high-durometer rubber (like a truck mudflap) would do the trick. That would solve your shifting, braking and vibration issues.

I got the new Mikuni. Frustrating finding documentation for these things. What's the brass colored port next to the choke?

Thanks guys.

http://img.auctiva.com/imgdata/4/7/8...68372717_o.jpg