It's the burned MMO vapors, they give you magical powers. :tup::hehe:

First try at a Motovlog. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_ngK74ZOSB0

Good job on the video.:tup: I just finished watching it on YouTube.

The camera being off kilter kinda bugs me, and my transition between the two clips didn't really work at all and actually cut the first one short, but hey. I will get the hang of it eventually lol

So you are running much larger jets than on your old Hawk? 140 on the pilot? What causes this change from 117?

My carb is a bit odd. Pilot is a keihin sized 45 that is a little too small. Main is a Mikuni 125. What caused the big leap in jetting? Head work.

Video is fine Dan. It does exactly what it supposed to do. Getting information out about your Hawk and mods. You're not going for the Academy award are you? lol

It does sound awesome! And good job on the motovlog. Lots of information and no dead air time. Hate it when they just ride paved roads and don't say anything.

Do you think the 65ml oil cooler could be mounted in the same manner as your big one? And I wouldn't be against drilling some big holes in the rear of the fender.

That was my first thoughts.

Drill away! As you can see in this pic, Q comes with a vented fender for cooling.

Thank you guys. I did consider drilling a series of half inch holes in some sort of pattern to try and let some air through. I just don't want to weaken the plastic too much and make it flimsy. Even just a few holes would likely make a good difference. The fender I was looking at has slots similar to that Q link one, but the tail end is a little shorter. It's only about $20, so not a huge investment.

May be worth a look. The slots on Q's fender are "thicker" along the ridges, probably for strength.

Harbor Freight lift ?

So a few adventures underway.

Last night I decided to tear into the bike and do a bunch of stuff at once.

First order of business was to install my new front rotor. While I am at it I installed the brake master cylinder along with the sintered pads and got that bled. Not much choice with the pads. The rotor ate away the inside pad enough to see the difference in wear between the two. I am going to change out the rear pads to match later today. Maybe the brakes will have a nice strong bite now.

I also got around to installing my skid plate, but the center stand is now too short to be of any practical use. I have to stick an 3/4 inch thick board under the legs in order for it to function. Further proof that my shock lifted the bike a little. I am going to leave the center stand mounts in place though because it is easy to slap on and quite handy when working on the bike.

Got the PWK30 installed, trying to sort out the jetting.

Halfway through the process of installing the hydraulic clutch. Got the clutch master mounted and I am trying to work out the best routing for the line. A part of me wishes I would have gone for the 1100mm hose, but I should be able to make the 1200 work just fine.

Since I had everything apart I also decided to relocate my aux light switch to the left side of the bars. Just wasn't easy to use on the right side and I would accidentally hit my kill switch sometimes. :doh: I also slightly re-routed my front brake line and throttle cable, as well as rotated my throttle housing 180 to the top to reduce the bend angle on the line. Now I have nothing blocking my gauges or my ignition switch.

Hopefully I can get it all buttoned up and take it for a rip snort later today. The first day it hasn't rained in almost a week.

Looks like you got a good bit done. :tup: I had a center stand about 3/4" longer but ended up cutting it down and putting it on my bike. It's probably a combo of the rear shock and front fork not having as much sag as stock. I can always make another one and send it to you whenever I find the time to make another batch of skid plates and center stands. Like you said though it does make it easier to work on when messing with the front wheel and lubing chain.
Curious to see how the hydraulic clutch works out.

So sitrep.

Hydraulic clutch:
The Good: It does work.
The Bad: The adjustment range is TINY - I had to remove the rear most adjustment nut to get it close enough, then had to adjust the little nut on the end of the rod that goes through the clevis a million times to get it where the clutch would disengage when pulled in and not slip with let out.
The ugly: Even with the adjustment fairly close, I can tell the clutch was not fully engaging until the bike got up to temp, and even then it never felt right. The fluid also was filled with particulates and looked like grey swamp water after just one 5 minute ride. Either the seals or the bore is being eaten alive. I will be converting back to cable tomorrow.
Final thoughts. Don't bother. The cable actually has a lighter pull, likely due to the clutch slave or master destroying itself. Once I have them off I will dismantle and see which is the culprit. I suspect the slave cylinder.

PWK30 carb install:
The Good: ...
The bad: I hacked the nibbi intake in the name of science. Doesn't work. The angle is just not quite right and it hits the frame worse than before in a different place.
The Ugly: Pretty sure I got a defective carb. I installed the 35 pilot jet and the surging continued, but between the dips it showed signs of being too lean. I confirmed this when going for a ride around my neighborhood and got bouts of hesitation at light throttle.

I removed the carb immediately after letting it start to surge again and found the intake pooled with fuel as well as the carb itself. I then completely tore the carb apart, checked every component, cleaned the #$%^ out of it, put new seals on every part I could, set the float height intentionally low along with the needle in the first notch and tried to let it idle. Same result. Somewhere/somehow fuel is being drawn up through the carb at idle, and I can also hear the throttle slide clacking away with each intake pulse.

Suffice it to say I installed my PZ30B and threw everything into a box to never be seen again. At this point I am considering trying a PE30 Nibbi carburetor. Sure, it's a round slide, but all of the adjustments are on the correct side of the bike and I can use all of my current jets I bought for the PWK.

So I can scratch Hydraulic clutch off the list.

Definitely a bad carb. I took my carb straight out the box and hooked everything up and she fired right up and ran damn near perfect. Only after I swapped the main and pilot jet that I had to move the needle clip down one notch and adjust the idle mixture.

Good luck on the next experiment.

It has to be a flaw with an air passage. It only draws excessive fuel when the throttle is closed and there is a lot of vacuum. It also had a strange flat spot around 3/4 throttle and the power jet never pulled fuel up from the bowl. If being free revved it would sometimes blow soot from the muffler, and others would come out clean.

I have a Nibbi PE30MM "High performance" carb on order. A bit more expensive than the cheapie Half round slides, but it also comes with a great warranty and the Nibbi carbs have a good reputation. The idle mixture screw and idle speed being on the right side will also mean I can try to run one of the other intakes I have.

Good choice. :tup: I had looked at that carb. From what I remember it's a full 30mm bore all the way through just like the PWK30.

Were did you find the PE30 version ? I can only find the 26, 28, and 34 versions for sale currently (but I only checked the 3 main places I know of :hehe: )

It's available on Amazon and Ebay. https://www.amazon.com/NIBBI-Replace...-1-spons&psc=1

:doh: I looked at that one too but didn't scroll down to the "Technical Details" to see it was the PE30 :hehe:... might need to drink some more Yerba Mate to wake the brain up a little more :D

Yep, and Amazon is the cheapest place I have found them, even before the free Prime shipping which made it even cheaper. The main jet changes will not be quite as easy as the PWK, but it's a fair trade to have a proper bowl drain screw that won't spew fuel all over the place. Plus, all of my current jets will work on the PE, so that saves me time and money.

In regards to the hydraulic clutch. The clutch master cylinder was the culprit for the debris. The piston was chewing into the bore, likely due to the seals being cheap and soft. It's strange to me that the brake master is perfectly fine and the clutch master is shit. The slave was in great shape, although it's seals were also soft and a bit deformed. I have a feeling they would have failed within a few hundred miles of use.

Short of a Magura kit for a CRF230 and the cable bracket for said CRF230, which would be expensive as hell ($300+), I don't honestly think there is a viable hydro setup for these bikes. Even if I used an OEM Honda clutch master like that from a VFR800, which I used on my Goldwing, the slave cylinder would always be the potential weak point.

Whoops! Just found this. Yep! HFT lift. Been great so far. Has no problems jacking up the Victory. It laughs at the CB's. Best money I spent so far. I hate rolling around on the ground anymore.

I've got the identical lift.....I'm toying with the air powered hydraulic lift mod for it using the one from HFT ...I agree...money well spent .... I would love to fab some wings for it to accommodate my 4wheeler and UTV.

https://youtu.be/dMZKZZxgoVA

Small update. I managed to get my hands on a NOS CMX250 (Honda Rebel) 14 tooth front sprocket for a whopping 5 bucks from a guy in the local riders group I am a part of. If you didn't know, the front and rear sprockets for the 520 chain also fit the Honda Rebel.

Anyway, it is just a curiosity exercise, but I want to confirm if the 14 can work or not on a Hawk. I expect not, but 5 bucks is a small price to pay for information. Once I get some time I will report back with pictures.

I can confirm that the 14 tooth is just a teeny tiny bit too bg. Unfortunate, if not too surprising.

Too bad that didn't work out. Do you think a 11 tooth would work and not be to small? I really want to do the 520 swap but like having a wide range of choices of 3 sprockets to be able to gear up for different types of riding like I do now with the 428 sprockets.

There are 11 tooth sprockets out there. PBI makes one that should work out of stainless steel for about $15.
https://www.ebay.com/p/PBI-352-11-St...02669579&rt=nc

I wouldn't consider the 11 too small, though I wouldn't run that as a daily gear.

I think for you, if you wanted to copy the 17/40, 16/40/ 15/40 options you would want a 30 rear. A 13/30 is near enough the same to a 17/40, a 16/40 and 12/30 are identical, and 15/40 and 11/30 are close to the same.

There is a 31 tooth option, but it wasn't sold here in the U.S. I had one on my last Hawk, and you can get them off of ebay for about $25 usually.

If I remember correctly I had 102 links with my 13/31 combo, so you would need either that or maybe 100 links exactly.

I was secretly hoping the 14 would fit, and honestly it might work if you flipped the sprocket and modified the sprocket cover. In the standard location the chain will rub against the protrusion that surrounds the sprocket/chain area from the engine case at about the 7-8 o'clock position. When I say it barely doesn't fit, I mean barely. We are talking about a 16th of an inch.

My hope was to be able to run a 14 front 35 rear, which with my tires would have been like a 17/42 on your bike, but then be able to swap down to a 12 front and have gearing equivalent to a 17/49 setup, or go extreme and swap in an 11 tooth and have a 3:1 gearing setup.

I think I will have to go back to a 31 tooth rear like I had before and snag myself an 11 front to achieve the same things.

This is why I want an engine with that .8 6th gear so much. Then I could have the best of all worlds without the sprocket swapping. a 17/48 equivalent combo would have the cruising RPM in 6th gear of our bikes with a 17/43 in 5th.

Could be a small variance with the way the engine cases were cast. Like I said, it barely doesn't fit. If I flipped the front sprocket it would work just fine, but I would have to cut away parts of the sprocket cover to make it work.

We shall see. I have no qualms with modifying the sprocket cover, and to be honest my chain alignment when the rear wheel is centered is actually not perfect because the front sprocket is a bit too inboard, so I might just do it. The only thing I hate about flipping the front sprocket is trying to get the bolts in. I might just drill the threads out of the sprocket and run a bolt through it and put a nut and lock washer on the other side to make it easier to install and remove. I already have a 12 front to swap out and that would give me much better off road gearing.

That is kind of what I am getting at. These CG Clones in the Hawk put the sprocket fairly inboard towards the engine case. Without flipping the sprocket, they sit too close for a 14 tooth. Even with the 13 tooth in the standard position it is fairly tight with the sprocket cover and just barely contacts it when installing it, just like a 17 tooth with a 428 chain, though a tiny bit less.

If I flip the sprocket, then the cover definitely needs to be clearanced. It would keep the chain off of the engine case though.

Who knows, I might just go through with it, but not tonight. I just got done cleaning and adjusting my chain lol. No energy left for modifications. I was hoping my Nibbi carb would have arrived by now so I could have installed it, but alas... nothing.

Dont fret Jerry, I'll lead your hand on this journey to the 520 club.. :lmao:

But on a serious note I will get the 13 tooth which will net me about a 17/43 ratio with my 33 tooth rear sprocket. And I seriously doubt you'd need to go lower than the 12/33-16/45 ratio I've got now, I can putt around the Reclaim on some pretty technical trails without slipping the clutch, just gotta be gentle with the throttle.

But I haven't ordered anything other than boat parts/accessories for a minute because I've got bigger plans in the works and my toy budget only goes so far. :)

So, I went on a longer ride today, about 80 miles-ish. I discovered a new side effect of my "high output" engine with that big oil cooler flowing hot air above the motor when riding on a hot day (91 degrees and 87% humidity!) My seat actually gets kinda warm now lol. So does my fuel tank for that matter. I have a whole square sheet of that gold heat reflective foil sitting around not doing anything. I think I may line the underside of my tank with it, and if I have any left I might try to stick some to the seat. Might not do a whole lot, but it has to be better than nothing. Cool fuel is happy fuel, right? Cool crotch is definitely happy crotch for sure.

I'll probably go with the 31 tooth because the 30 will put me a little higher than I want with a 13 tooth on front. The 12/31 will be fine for most of the off road riding I do. There are a couple of place we go ride that have some pretty steep hills and the 11/31 would be perfect there. I need billy goat mode there. lol

So, my Nibbi PE30 has failed to arrive on time. Contacted the seller and they are going to mail me a new one. Without any tracking information it is impossible for me to know if it got lost or delivered to the wrong house, etc. I don't understand why these sellers don't spend the extra buck on tracking. It makes everybody happier in the long run.

I had same experience...since then I always offer to pay a little extra if the seller will provide the tracking..most say no problem...a few have said if I want that extra service to buy somewhere else.........and I did/do.

PE30 just arrived. I didn't look it over in super close detail, but I can say that the extra cost paid for the carburetor really shows in the quality. The chome on the slide is immaculate and all of the machining to the carb body is very fine, and certain areas are a polished finish. The black outer coating seems durable, but has a bit of a textured feel to it that might make it a pain to keep clean looking (if you even care).

It came with extra jets in a baggie, a 125, 128, and 130 main jet plus an extra pilot that I couldn't quite read, but looked like a 40 or 48. I have not opened the bowl yet to see what jets come installed, but I am going to assume a 120 main and maybe a 45 pilot. Bowl screws are cap head allen bolts instead of JIS/Phillips.

Overall, I don't feel like it was money wasted at this point. I will report back when I get the time to really look it over and install it. Damn nice carburetor.

Can't wait t see it installed and results. :tup:

So to update on the bike with said PE30 carburetor (as seen in this thread. http://chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=23923 ).

End results. As far as any change to top speed is concerned, there was no real increase, but that has a lot more to do with the cam profile and where the power peaks combined with my current gearing and where the motor sits in the RPM range,

What has changed is how quickly the bike gets up to speed. It has now become a more steady linear climb up where before it would feel like a struggle, and I can maintain 65-70 with greater ease and more throttle available to me than before. Beyond that point I am on the tail end of the power curve and it just drops off too much to really see much of a difference.

I have a feeling if I put that 14 front on or dropped down 2 teeth in the rear for a better "road bike" gearing setup getting to higher speeds would be much more attainable, if I desired to do so.

Acceleration through all of the gears almost feels effortless now. Maintaining higher speeds up hills in a higher gear is also much easier than it ever was before. Often finding myself able to maintain the current higher gear instead of having to downshift on certain hills I frequently find myself going up.

This is the boost in power I was hoping for ever since I installed the ported head.

Those are the same exact results I have gotten. Just being able to cruise 65-70 without having to twist the throttle all the way was a nice improvement. I think a 30mm smooth bore is the sweet spot for our setup. I think anything bigger you will loose performance. You have a 32mm. Please prove me wrong. :p lol