Got a jd rider mower that i have been having to do that to the solenoid. Need to get that dam thing ordered.

Starter solenoid

Is the fuel flowing back into the tank? If so, it may be the regulator.

If tapping doesn't work try a bigger hammer!

The fuel pump I ordered is way too big, much bigger than it said in the listing, so it is not going to work. Oh well. I think I am going to run this MotoEFI pump a little longer and see if it keeps working while I soruce a different pump. In other news I finally got my new front sprocket and chain installed. Went with an O-Ringed 428 chain and a 17T sprocket. I ordered a 18T as well, but it would not fit. I plan on tweaking the tune and going for a ride later today as its a beautiful 65° and sunny day here in michigan.
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y78...513_120318.jpg

The Vader did good so far today! Made the 16 mile trek to work just fine. I need to datalog it as its either too rich or too lean on the top end. Hit a top speed of 57mph while drafting a semi haha. Going to strap a gopro to myself soon a make a new video for you guys
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y78...515_134426.jpg

Chain?
 

As I have a 17t sprocket, but have heard factory chain is too short, if you could put up a link...pun intended...lol, for the chain you got, would be cool! wondering what total links were that you needed. Maybe an additional link was enough? Any help would be awesome. I envy the FI on your Vader, as that is really COOL! Not sure if I could do it on mine, factory airbox, emissions stuff is all gone.

Thanks for any help!

We have same color scheme...here's mine.

Here is the chain I am running.
Look at this on eBay http://www.ebay.com/itm/321318221273

Its 136 links and needs to be shortened. If you dont have one, now would be a good time to get a chain breaker. I am unsure how many links the stock chain had. I took mine off, put them side by side, then counted 2 more links for the larger sprocket. It was close to 120 links but like I said I didnt count, just eyeballed it and added 2 links:tup:

And thanks for the kind words about the efi! You could totally do it to a bike with aftermarket everything. I am honestly going to be making a new exhaust and potentially getting rid of the airbox myself:)

Something strange I have figured out with this ecu.. the EGO correction doesn't work correctly. It seems to be inverted. I datalogged a ride the other night and noticed that when the o2 sensor reads a high voltage (rich) it starts to add fuel.. the exact opposite of what it should do. So i am either going to have to disable ego correction, which kinda defies the purpose of this, or figure something else out. I am half tempted to flash B&G Microsquirt software to it and see what happens. If I brick it, I am going to go back to a carb until I get a genuine microsquirt. Stupid china..:doh:

Alternate fuel pump idea. Ecotrons does sell individual parts, including the fuel pumps. I learned this after contacting them about one of their larger pumps for my Goldwing EFI ideas. Their 25lph pump draws only 2 amps - the same draw as a single 12V 1156 bulb, aka not much) and is roughly about the same size as the CDI box. The prices may be different now, but when I contacted them a few months ago their 45lph pump was 85 bucks. So, at worst, the smaller pump would cost about that much. AFAIK, their products are pretty reliable.

Just an idea.

As far as the EGO correction, that is definitely strange. If you do decide to try and flash that B&G software definitely let us know how it goes. It's definitely disheartening that you are having these kinds of issues. I was just considering purchasing one of these kits, but now I am second guessing that decision. It might cost twice as much, but the microsquirt is starting to be more tempting. The problem is, while this kit being so cheap made it more reasonable to go EFI, spending $500 to microsquirt the bike is well into "is it really worth it?" land. Granted, the nice thing about the Microsquirt is that if I ever got rid of the hawk, I could use it on something else. One of my favorite aspects of universal EMS setups.

That is strange. I know when tuning on force induction motors the PCM would do all kinds of strange adjustments so I switch to speed density tuning and told it what I wanted to do and when. I had better results. I would just disable the EGO correction and just do a lot of datalogging and adjust fuel were needed.

I have disabled ego correction by setting its controller authority to 0, as disabling it stops the ecu from datalogging the sensor. I also disabled auto idle and smoothed out the fuel map. She runs damn good now! Still more datalogging needed, but making good progress on the tune. I have decided against flashing BG software to it for now. Here is my current tune for your viewing pleasure:tup:

Edit: I also think I figured out my fuel pump issue. It is two things:
1. The inlet port on the pump is facing downwards, which I think is trapping air bubbles causing the pump to cavitate.

2.My fuel filer is below the pump, which I am sure is also trapping air bubbles.

I am going to reroute the fuel lines and possibly redo the return line as I suspect it could also be causing issues.

I think this solved my fuel pump issues! Mounted the pump lower and shortened the feed line.
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y78...517_194729.jpg

Changed the return line back to how it originally was
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y78...517_194743.jpg

And drilled a small 1/16" hole for a vent. This is temporary, not sure what I will end up doing for a vent
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y78...5069569685.jpg

So far so good! :yay:Runs so much smoother, but I think it's too rich on the top end now

Thanks for the update. Hopefully the EGO correction is just an odd fluke, but if all else fails I have a wideband and gauge I can use to tune with. Hope is restored lol. Glad you can enjoy your bike. It's so frustrating when you can't ride.

So I think I am still having fuel pump issues. Without a fuel pressure gauge mounted to my brs its hard to tell. But, I finally got around to putting my new muffler on!

Not the prettiest but these mig welds will hold up
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y78...518_115807.jpg

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y78...518_115812.jpg

Anyone have a lower rear fender they arent using and want to sell? The stock muffler destroyed mine.. but muffer looks good on there!
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y78...518_120350.jpg

It most definitely has a fuel pressure issue. I am either not going to ride it, or put a carb back on until I have enough money to get an ecotrons fuel pump and regulator. I about got killed on my ride home because it wanted to suddenly not make power.

I think I may have figured this out. The small ~20ga power wires feed the entire EFI system.. CDI box, fuel pump, injector, all of it, I think isn't flowing enough current. I have noticed that while the bike is running, the fuel pump sounds like it is spinning significantly slower than when the bike is off and I am priming the system. A Multimeter confirms that the pump is only getting around 10V with the engine at idle, so I can only imagine that is even less as the revs go up and the CDI starts sucking down more power. I am going to try using the connector off the EFI harness to trigger a relay, and run the relay power and pump ground direct to the battery.

I am really at wits end with this project. It's very hard for me to justify spending another $100 on a new pump and regulator when I can buy a nice carb for that price. If this doesn't work, I may just give up on this:tdown:

That might solve the problem. It's not a large pump but to get 45 psi i'm sure it draws some amps. Every fuel pump I have installed was on a relay. Don't give up.

I agree, you should at minimum add a Relay to that system with how demanding it is...

What type of connectors does the wiring come with? You might be able to buy new marine grade wires, correct size crimp connectors, and solder everything up nice (along with a relay) for under $20

Don't give up. The relay idea is a good one as most fuel pump output is directly related to the power it sees. That is why some people "hot rod" factory fuel pumps with direct power to bump the voltage/current up. If you look at any flow chart of a walbro, they have different stated flow rates at 12V and 14V for this very reason.

If all else fails and you decide to go carb again, I can easily be convinced to take that EFI setup off your hands if you want to sell it.

we going to get an update youtube video soon would love to hear it on the road... plus thx for documenting this journey thinking of doing it to my Chinese dual sport when i get second bike

It sounds like your stator doesn't produce enough power at idle, try checking the voltage while revving the motor a little. IF the voltage comes up then it would only be affecting EFI at idle... if it doesn't come up, either the voltage regulator is bad or the stator is weak. IF it's the stator, replace it with an aftermarket performance one... just don't give up yet, we are all counting on you!

Id try to fit a bigger more powerful battery too.

A bigger battery would be nice, but it's already super tight in the cavity as is.

Well guys... I hate to say it but I have pulled the fuel injection off the bike :tdown: I rewired the fuel pump which did make a big difference, but it still had serious drivability issues that did not make me feel safe riding it. I have beem super busy working on the drift car, drifting events and getting the yaris ready for time attack so this has been on the back burner. But yeah, spent some time on it the last few days and I finally gave up. Sorry to disappoint everyone. I 100% know that I could get it running perfect if I could run genuine B&G megasquirt hardware.

For now at least, the Boom will be running a cable choke PZ26 from MaxAuto, and so far it runs fantastic. Using the out of the box jets (35 pilot, 95 main) amd about 1.75 turns out on the bleed resulted in great running conditions... but it may be a little too rich. Anyway once again sorry to disappoint you guys, but I can only throw so much money at it before I had to throw in the towel.

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y78...628_091542.jpg

PS: Im not selling the kit just yet. I am going to save up for a microsquirt over the winter and try to inject it once again next year.

Sorry to here it's not working out. Maybe when you come back to it and have the time to really focus on just the that it will work out. At least it's up and running for the time being.

Hey Lucas,

a great effort on your part and kudos for taking it as far as you could.

Glad to hear you're able to use the bike for now!

Put a bigger air filter on the carb.

I am.. this is all I had laying around the shead. I'm building a pretty cool intake for it using a 4" weber downdraft velocity stack and a UNI sock:tup:

Looking forward to see that!

cant wait to see where it goes when it goes again\

Hi Lucas,


Maybe I can help you with your problems, after reading the whole post, I can recommend that you check the stator of the alternator.
I have a Chinese bike similar to yours and I have acquaintances who make pit bike races with an engine very similar to yours.

Electric current:
If I have not seen wrong, your cdi is powered by battery. If your battery is in good condition, strip the contacts from the power supply of the voltage regulator and see what AC voltage comes from the alternator. The value must be greater than the DC voltage of the voltage regulator output. At idle you should charge the battery (13-13.5v approximate). If not, you must change it.

You could also look at the alternator Ohms, if you know the values. It has happened to me to read the ohms and be at the factory value, but not to give AC voltage (6v), so if you can do the test that I have mentioned, it is convenient.

It is not the same electrical requirement feeding only cdi to an efi kit. I also bought a kit similar to yours 2 stroke and the power consumption is about 25w according to the seller. According to my calculations, it would be for 30w. You should look at the power that your alternator generates too. In the case that you exceed, you can always lower the consumption of lighting.



EFI Kit:

My friend says that the pump factor that you have to 0, you have to put it to 99, the ignition table (spark) looks good.

I hope you can buy the items you need soon, cheer up, you're not alone.:tup:

All this written with google translator, I do not know English I only know Spanish. I hope to hear from you.:hehe:


regards

Hi,
I also use this system and had same fuel pump problem like yours.

What i do is just install the fuel pump vertically with the fuel output at top side and input from tank at downside. Now i ride daily without problem.

I hope this will help.

Hi,

Could you give more details about your motorcycle? And the installation of the components and the programming? Thanks!

------

Hola,

¿Podrías dar más detalles de tu motocicleta? ¿Y la instalación de los componentes y la programación? ¡Gracias!

Hi.
My motorcycle is yamaha 135 i convert to 150cc. About the installation i dont know how to tell you haha. I didnt take any picture of it while assembling, but the most problem is at the fuel return line. I save original program from ecu to my pc first before made adjustment. Reduce or raise all the VE value by 2 point then test ride before fine tune.

Hello,

it's a pity that there are no images :(

From the return line do you mean the connection to the fuel tank? To have as little restriction as possible so that the pump does not have problems to return the fuel, it should be connected from the top of the fuel tank or from below, with an internal pipe to the top of the tank, so that the weight of the fuel does not impede the return.

Why do not you open a post with your bike and show it to us?

Could you upload the copy of the file or the programming that you have in the ecu now? It would be interesting to compare it (If you do not want to, do not do it)

Thanks for the advice,

Regards

-------

Hola,

es una lástima que no haya imágenes :(

¿De la línea de retorno te refieres a la conexión al depósito de combustible? A de tener la menor restricción posible para que la bomba no tenga problemas para devolver el combustible, se debería conectar por la parte alta del depósito de combustible o desde abajo, con un tubo interno hasta la parte de arriba del depósito, para que el peso del combustible no impida el retorno.

¿Porqué no abres un post con tu moto y nos lo enseñas?

¿Podrías subir la copia del archivo o la programación que tienes en la ecu ahora? Sería interesante compararlo (Si no quieres, no lo hagas)

Gracias por el consejo,

Saludos

Attachment 16479
I didnt connect exhaust sensor to the ECU, i connect it to AFR gauge. Easier for me to read the mixture while im riding if i feel something weird.

Attachment 16480
ECU on top of the battery. Green cable is battery voltage stabilizer installed years ago. Black single cable is from ECU to connect to laptop.

Attachment 16481
Re-use stock intake manifold and aftermarket bullet air filter and the end.
Attachment 16482

Here's my setup. And msq file. Just remove .txt extension. This VE table cut half of my fuel consumption with carburetor before. This Ignition table is still original because i didnt use cdi that supplied with the set. Just focus on the fueling.

Return fuel should be connected at the top to avoid leakage. But the main thing is to prevent fuel pump from heating up by return the fuel on other side of tank and feed it back to the pump on another side to cool the fuel.

If you have working setting could you upload it too? I wanna give it a try.

Thanks and regards.

Very interesting, about the oxygen probe, after doing the gas adjustment, did you connect it again? Does not it give you problems when it automatically adjusts with the measurement of the probe? I have an acquaintance who did not manage to make it work that way.

The gasoline return connection is fine, I did the same in the fuel tank.

Unfortunately I have almost no changes to my file, since I have not been able to test my engine (problems of space and time), in addition, my file would not serve you since it is 2 stroke.

Pity that @Lucas@Air_Lift is not, among the 3 we could help each other better.


Thank you so much for everything! regards

-------

Muy interesante, sobre la sonda de oxígeno, después de hacer el ajuste de la gasolina, ¿Lo conectaste de nuevo? ¿No te da problemas cuando se ajusta automáticamente con la medición de la sonda? Tengo un conocido que no consiguió hacerla funcionar de esa manera.

La conexión de retorno de la gasolina está bien, yo hice lo mismo en el depósito de combustible.

Desgraciadamente no tengo casi modificaciones en mi archivo, ya que no he podido probar mi motor (problemas de espacio y tiempo), además, mi archivo no te serviría ya que es de 2 stroke.

Lástima que Lucas no esté, entre los 3 podríamos ayudarnos mejor.


Muchas gracias por todo! Saludos

I didnt connect the oxygen sensor because it will make my battery drop below 12V. That will cause electric starter cant work.

I tried to remove only heater wire to the sensor but it will cause no O2 reading in the software. Next i will make a switch for that and set ego control active at above idle rpm.

At first it give me problem when it auto adjust the fuel, but after i lower the controller authority then it works fine.

Im thinking about to use 2 injector system for my 4 stroke bike. 1 for fuel economy and other for power jet at high rpm. Maybe next time.

Thanks and regards

Hi, Does anyone run this efi kit with gy6 150cc ? my fuel pump issue is solved by set pump factor to 99 ( special thank to Eligius ) but still have not proper VE table. How can I get correct base map? I'm really new to this software.

Hola Skelethorn,

Tienes problemas para cargar la batería?

Puedes poner un conector de carga externo y cargarlo con un cargador de baterias cada semana, para hacer pruebas.

Esperamos más avances tuyos!

Una de mis ideas para 2 stroke es usar 2 inyectores para tu misma función.

Saludos y gracias!

------------------------

Hi Skelethorn,

Having trouble charging the battery?

You can put an external charging connector and charge it with a battery charger every week, for testing.

We expect more progress from you!

One of my ideas for 2 stroke is to use 2 injectors for your same function.

Greetings and thanks!



Hola s-3d,

Estoy contento de ayudarte, pero no tengo muchas ideas más para hacerlo. Hace mucho que no uso el programa y no recuerdo mucho. La GY6 se usa mucho en Asia, has mirado los foros de allí?

Saludos

--------------

Hi S-3d,

I'm glad to help you, but I don't have many more ideas to do it. I haven't used the program for a long time and I don't remember much. The GY6 is used a lot in Asia, have you looked at the forums there?

Regards