I got these and they're damn bright. Mounted them on the front plastic guard. I wired them into the high beam circuit.

https://www.amazon.com/Nilight-Drivi...led+atv+lights

I also mounted some similar, but round units under the rear rack for reverse lights

Sorry, double post.

You can't really align the rear axle. You can loosen and tighten the chain but that's about it. Most of these run a little "crab-like". My axle is pointing slightly to the right but it's presented no problem other than looking a little funny.

I did however discover that if you back out of the garage fast, then instead of using the brake, you click it into first and use the clutch as your brake before you start rolling forward, it will torque down on the chain roller and pop the chain off. 2LZ usually learns the hard way.

Yea factory LED front lights are totally worthless. More aesthetics then functional.

Had a pair of Rigid D2 driving lights that I pulled off our truck before we sold it(too $$$$ for this ATV). Sold them to a friend that lives in Napa, CA for a 6 wheeler of his. Even the so called high beams don't light squat up.

Couple questions..1. Is this the right plug for this motor-NGK D8EA. 2 is it ok to run Rotella T6 5w-40 in these or should I stick with the heavier oil for the clutches?

Thanks!

Yes and yes.

Like mudflap said you have the right plug. Our Rhinos are manual gear boxes so you do not have to worry about oil for the clutches. A manual system is dry only the autos have that setup.

Lights similar to what 2LZ put on his. Had a slight hip issue yesterday which kept me from installing. Plan on sharing when I can get to them.

Just to be clear, CG engines like most motorcycle engines have a wet clutch so the type of oil does matter. Rotella oil for diesel engines and most motorcycle specific oils are fine but many car oils will cause the clutch to slip.

Got tired of the no low end grunt and the excessive chain noise from being sloppy. So spent the coin on one of them WGS 37 tooth rear sprocket. Wasn't really knowing when to expect it. So got it ready for it. I knew the jets were coming today but..

I also seen that they didn't use sealed bearings in the rear carrier so took the needle tip and squirted some marine bearing grease down in there on both sides. Found a couple spare metric bolts from the kids Coolster ATV's and used them on the sprocket ring, since they were missing the threads in the middle which was weird!?!

axle aligment
 

You say you can not align the rear axle???? I always loosen off the bolts and the adjustors( make sure the jam nuts on the inside are removed so yu can adjust the turn buckle)... and use a 1 inch ratchet strap to pull the axle if it needs to be moved forward.. this will cause the axle to straighten out... just use the adjust on the chain side to tighten it up.... this is the same setup on the 125 F1 and the 150 d and RHINO models..
the rear axle can be aligned this way... same method for the small ones... Both axle spread distance should be no more than 1/2 inch difference... with about 1/2 deflection in the chain.... works for me and all my customers once they remove the back inside lock nuts so they can adjust the chain tension with out stripping the thread as many do not LOOSEN the locking bolts on the rear axle

I'll have to check this out. On mine, one can easily see that the supports on the axle housing that are welded on are not welded on in the same spots. One is rocked forward causing the axle to be slightly swiveled to the right....meaning that there's less distance between the left side tires as opposed to the right side tires.

Mizzoufan, where'd you get the larger rear sprocket? I can't remember what the stock tooth count is............... How many more teeth did you go? I need torque, not highway speeds.

Stock is 32 2LZ, this one is +5 on tooth count.


http://www.whygostock.com/taotao-rhi...ooth-sprocket/