I personally love my 'heavy' 1999 KLR 650, sure I put a bunch of $ into it but it has yet to leave me 'permanently' stranded anywhere, the few times she did randomly have issues it was a 5 minute :hmm: head scratching fix to get back home, then fully fix the issue for the next rides... and I was lucky to get all those bugs worked a few rides into owning the bike :)

I'm fairly small at only 120lbs but I still have plenty of strength/technique/leverage to easily lift the bike off the ground (26+ years of "Karate" experience/training also coming into use)...

It also helps that I started gutting weight off the bike as soon as I got it, so far I have a box full of heavy/useless crap that I have removed and it is well over 35lbs of crap last I weighed it and I just dropped a little more weight from the FMF Header and LEXX exhaust upgrade (still have the old heavy battery to replace too and that will shave several more lbs of weight).

Sure I added a little weight too here and there, but no way it's more than a few (2) lbs so far with the Fork Brace and Thermo Bob 2 kit, and I will add another few lbs (4 or 5?) when I upgrade to Fuel Injection, but I should still be able to lift it no problems (unless I'm extremely tired of course :) ) it will still be lighter than it was stock when I wanted to power lift it a few times just to see if I could on my own "just in case" :lol: .

I have been riding different bikes on the dirt for 26 or more years now (I usually rode my 100cc Yamaha, and started on a PW50 a few months before I turned 4yrs old), but I haven't really had much issues with the hefty KLR off road. After I installed the Eagle Mike Fork Brace and new Wheel Bearings I have no "wash out" issues and I can just haul ace off road now... and I still need to save up to upgrade/rebuild the suspension :D

Still really lucky I haven't been down on or off the road, just dropping the bike on purpose to lift up a few times :)

Thanks for stopping by everyone :tup:

whoa!
I thought the 120 was a missprint! you have my serious respect. just as a matter of reference, i am about 250 and 6'3 and i too can lift it up, and i do occasionally singletrack it But i do it with extreme caution which takes a lot of concentration, which by and large detracts from the joy of the ride.


I am by nature exceedingly careful when i know that whatever happens the only one available to save my azz is going to be ME. When i was a much younger and less cautious man, on the directions of a scheming young Austrian kid (who no doubt hated italians (long story, bike had italian plates) I ended up on the wrong road in the alps, caught in a white out blizzard and had to clear my way through about 2 feet of snow some 40 ft off the road into a tiny hay shed where i rode out the storm for three days in the hay in the company of a comically fearless mouse who i named "hamlet". we literally "broke bread" together. :}
but all of that was on a ducati that was inches lower than my KLRS.

Wow azh, pretty impressive for that 650 . I thought the same as seeratlas as I read. With your expierence, I'm sure you just skip those lay over situations in the first place (aka thinking man's rider). I'm a newb so i am drinking this all in.

:lmao: Thanks everyone, if I had a choice I would have gladly got a DR650, DRZ400 (or the 300+), XR650L, KLX400 (or the 300+), or any number of other bikes in the 400 - 650cc range I looked at that are lighter and just as "good/bad" on and off road :lol:... but those bikes/sellers all came with a premium cost for the same 5 to 20+ year old beat up junk, all showing up on CL and 'local' ads...

Then one day I seen the ad for a completely stock, never dropped or farkled 1999 KLR 650 with only 11,xxx miles, checked it out later that day after the guy got off work, then met and purchased it the next day at the bank for CHEAP! Guy told me he had it for 1.5 to 2 years and only rode it 3 times total, the first owner put all the mileage on the bike and it was all road miles, was always garaged too :hehe:

But like I said, if any of those other bikes I was looking at would have sold for what they were actually worth I would have gladly ended up with a different bike (those bikes are no where close to $2,500 - $5,000+ "FIRM" for a used and beat to sh* bike... no matter what used crap you add to the deal...)

This ol KLR 650 was dirt cheap to buy... it has been a little expensive to refurbish to my liking, but I will end up with a "Better than new 2016 KLR 650" for $2,000 (stock 2016 KLR) to $5,000+ less (modded 2016 KLR), and my old '99 will (soon) have FI, the SV650 brake caliper mod, and an upgraded suspension to boot :D

actually, you've done a better deal than you think. the pre 2008 klrs are (in mho) better dirt bikes than the 2nd gen bikes. targeted by Kawa as entry Adventure bikes. Longer travel forks , less weight, no fairing,etc, when u r done w your build, I think you will b more than pleased

on the net's KLR650 site are a bunch of gen 1 experts who (again imho) know more about those bikes than the Kawa engineers themselves.

In any event, fix that subframe problem, and strengthen those footpeg mounts and all will b well.

I Can offer you personal testimonials about the progressive rate fork springs, the chassis lowering dog links, the comfort of the 2014.5 new edition saddle,( find someone who just HAD to have a custom seat and wrangle for his stock one, And there is a san diego group of real life experts who will rebuild and custom spring your rear shock to match your body weight and riding style. HHHHUUUUGGGE difference to quote the Donald:) and they are a fraction of the cost of the commercial shock guys.
again gluck. and check youtube for klr raceing. great video.

Well I just placed the initial order for a 42mm Fuel Injection Kit... waiting for the supplier to fix the price so I can actually pay and complete the order for the right kit (they had the price for the 100 - 250cc engines/fuel injection kit listed, was told to add the item with 42mm specifications in the notes, then check out but not to pay, they would fix the price, and then I pay/they ship)

If all goes well my KLR 650 will be fuel injected in a few weeks time :) can't wait, no choke cold starts at any temp/altitude is going to be awesome!!!

Will be tuned in for that one for sure .

I will be sure to take plenty of pics and try to log any other info of the process as I go ;)

Auto idle control, sweeeeet. Such decisions as where to drill for the O2 sensor and welding the bung nut for it... good stuff.

O2 sensor needs to be placed 6 to 10 inches from the exhaust port to help with initial warm up, and it also needs to be at a 1 to 15 degree angle to keep condensation to a minimum according to the installation guide :tup:

Price was adjusted earlier this morning and I just paid for the kit, should take a few days to process then ship, and another week or 2 to receive it from the supplier (Ecotrons supplier from China :p , I'm saving $230 by going direct to the maker :p)

can't remember if you had upgraded your battery yet but i sure would make sure its always in near perfect condition. assuming your new injection is an electric one. usally dead battery means dead fuel injection, ergo the carb for the apocalypse ready klr.

Takes 4.5 amps and about 70w to run the EFI set up according to the install pdf, the KLR 650 should have plenty of juice as I dropped a lot of watts when I upgraded to LEDs :) , and I still have the stator and rect. I could upgrade and that would give another 100 or 120w if I remember right ;) .

I still haven't upgraded the battery yet, but I need to soon*... smelling of fuel the other day got me a Fuel Injection Kit... and that took all my monies away from my "lighter/sealed battery fund" :lmao:

I'm thinking about getting a nice/inexpensive AGM battery now that I'm going EFI, it will still save a few lbs over my original battery (its over 12lbs!) and I would have a slight warning of the battery losing juice, those Li Ion batteries can just cut out with no warning from what I read... but I have no experience myself with Li Ion batteries in any kind of Automotive so :shrug:

I really don't think a Lithium Ion battery would be the best choice with the old (stock charging system) 1st gen KLR 650, with EFI it will be a higher watt usage/lower watt stator charging system that I currently have... if the Li Ion battery dies on the road (if I left the lights on with the bike off) I have no way to get it running any time soon. Maybe if/when I upgrade the stator/rect. I will get a really light Shorai battery :)

*From what I have learned about the Gen 1 KLR 650 charging systems and any 'non-sealed battery' will cause the battery to boil off water/acid/electrolytes, it constantly pumps too many amps back into the battery heating it up causing the old batteries (the water/acid) to boil :grr: yet another wonderful design from those genius manufacturers at Kawasaki :grr:

In theory a Lithium Ion Battery would be the perfect choice and any "Sealed" (AGM or GEL) Battery is also a great choice and they are also about 1/2 or less in cost :hehe:

Finally decided that an "AEM 30-4110 UEGO Controller" (wideband O2 sensor and gauge) will also be ordered for the project :) have to make sure my motorcycle gets properly tuned after all :clap:

Oh how I despise waiting for things :ohno: it's going to be a long couple of weeks before my EFI kit even gets here... that's what I get for wanting to save $230 over ordering from the US supplier ("Ecotrons") :p

[QUOTE=Azhule;206869]Takes 4.5 amps and about 70w to run the EFI set up according to the install pdf, the KLR 650 should have plenty of juice as I dropped a lot of watts when I upgraded to LEDs :) , and I still have the stator and rect. I could upgrade and that would give another 100 or 120w if I remember right ............

I was eventually going to shop a led headlight for lower amp draw and I think it adds to more "high tech" look.

I just realized there are a ton of post on this thread before I chimed in I will have to go check them out. Kind of new to this thread and post thing this is the first time I have actually ever joined 1 and am amazed how much information there is To be learned.

I went with a 35w VVME BiXenon HID Kit for the Headlight, not a LED setup btw, I don't think I mentioned that anywhere in my posts :hmm: (sorry :hehe:)

I got a kit when it was on sale for like $48, but the price isn't that much more right now they are $54 including a relay kit (got one from the seller below) :tup:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/35W-VVME-AC-...MAAOSwv0tVWYOY

I don't know what kind/size of light or if you need both High and Low beam, I needed the BiXenon (both High and Low), installation was easy enough... I didn't even bother taking pics of anything it was that simple :clap:

Can't tell you on how long the VVME Kits last, but my friend sold me on them after he told me of his working for over 4+ years (mine is not even a few weeks/a month old).