Hey yoz, havent looked at your profile to see your location, but a $2.00 auction win ends up being about $30.00 to my door if I'm too dumb to combine shipping that day.

P.S. I dont think it will work out on your 110ccc, but let us know anyway.

The 125cc might work if I weld it though. I know that including shipping costs the item ends up being $30 but if I buy other items then I can obviously save on shipping. :P

Oh for sure. There was a method I used once that got me 8 items in the cart, but I think he spotted me on that one and I cant do it anymore, but I can still do 5 easy.

On most items the shipping (Ontario) jumps from 18 bucks to maybe 20 bucks if you add another item, then 22, then 24 or 25, etc.

Interesting. Dont have too much to complain about then. The most I've paid for shipping was the last order, and that was 13.00.

I'm not sure it has anything to do with multiple items, more about the box size or weight needed for the extra items. I got quoted 13 for shipping for the Monster exhaust, added two CDI's for W&G and the shipping never changed since they fit in the same sized box easily.

Thats because for live in BC. We live in ON. I don't get why the shipping price increases when you can ship an item using UPS for $18 for up to 5lbs. That means you can put as much items as you can until it reaches 5lbs.

It's all business Yozalo. There is an opportunity to make a little profit at every stage of the game.

BTW, I won the Pit Bike exhaust for $2.00 (I think). I had to buy one and install it before Pete got wise and bought them all. Either him or waynev. :lol:

The Pit Bike exhaust is aluminum at the inlet and outlet, so you can't weld steel to it. What you can do is weld a stepped pipe onto your stock pipe so it will slip into the Pit Bike exhaust. The outside diamter of your pipe will need to be about 1 1/8".

Nope, must have been waynev. I bought all those Monster pipes after I saw the comparison you did.

Ok, much to report.

I decided to remove the intake tube and carb rather than hope to find a vaccuum leak. TurboT, call your Dad and tell him he's the King. The reason for the leak is that the groove for the o-ring (where the intake tube meets the head) is too deep.

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t...DeepGroove.jpg

This shot sorta shows how deep the groove really is.

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t...nkeno-ring.jpg

I tried another o-ring from my kit, but it still wasn't quite proud enough. Instead, I stretched a small o-ring into the groove and then placed the stocker overtop.

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t...ingbooster.jpg

Here's what it looks like stacked.

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t...-ringproud.jpg

It took a bit of coercion to get the o-ring to sit still while I mounted the tube, but it was worth it. There was obvious compression in the o-ring as it was tightened.

Next, I replaced the pilot jet with a 22.5 (vs. the stock 20).

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t...d/225Pilot.jpg

For those who've never removed one, here's where it goes.

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t...lotInstall.jpg

Next up was the new 110 main jet (vs. the stock 100, which I had drilled out to 104).

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t...nd/110Main.jpg

Here's how it's installed.

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t...aininstall.jpg

I also farted around with the insulator that fits between the carb and the intake tube, thinking I might be able to remove it due to the Mikuni o-ring. Nope. Check out the mismatch without the insulator.

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t...ismatchtop.jpg

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t...atchbottom.jpg

It's not perfect with the insulator, but it is better.

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t...sulatorTop.jpg

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t...atorbottom.jpg

Then I investigated why there is an annoying exhaust leak at the head pipe. Guess what? No gasket. Good thing I have some in stock, eh T?

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t...xhaustfail.jpg

I also noticed how much the welding in the head pipe restricts flow.

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t...pipebefore.jpg

So, I ported it. It's hard to tell from this photo, but the exhaust no longer necks down to less than the head pipe ID. This is also before I shook the grinding crap out.

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t...dpipeafter.jpg

I also swapped the front shocks for the new black spring nitrogen shocks. Before bolting in the new shocks, I studied the range of motion of the spindle. With the shock installed in the lowest hole and suspension at full droop, the spindle is on the leading edge of bumpsteer. With the quad on the ground and a rider onboard, it should be at the perfect starting point. Take care to not use the upper mounting hole.

The spindle can travel a full 3.5" upward before entering bumpsteer territory. Since the nitrogen shock only has a (theoretical) range of 3" until it hits the bumpstop, it's a good choice.

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t...d/35Inches.jpg

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t...ticulation.jpg

I couldn't hardly compress the stock shocks by hand on the floor at all. The nitrogen shocks compress much more easily, and there is obvious damping on the rebound.

After getting it all back together, I hit the key and it fired right up. The vaccuum leak seems to be gone. I couldn't let it warm up because it was too late to make that much noise.

Lots of progress tonight. I love coffee. :D

Good grief D!

You've been busy! I was going to PM you tonight to tell you not to kill yourself with that thing, that I could come tomorrow and wrench on it. Looks like there's not much more to do.

I would mention my Dad is the King's Advisor, since he's sitting in his basement in his big chair while you do all the work, Your Highness.

Those are some great shots too. Excellent tech data and advice for the DIY types who haven't done much of that stuff.

Now I'm dying to come play with it.

Thanks for the great post and all the effort. I'm going to have to buy you lunch and beer.

Nicely done.

Love the pics of the carb. Very useful, thanks.

Now with all this jetting business done, go beat the snot out of it please and tell us how it responded to the jetting change and whether the vac leak was the culprit, re: hunting idle.

I spent most of the evening puttering around & fixing up a multitude of small stuff (adjust shocks, change oil, build new battery cage, change oil on mini, install NGK wire & plug on mini, replace 2 of 3 nuts on beast tailight mount, re-route choke cable on beast, etc....little crap that needed doing) I'd come in every 20 minutes to warm up and post :) :)

I'd love to go beat on it. It's liberating to chop / cut / rebuild a quad when you don't own a bolt in it. :D

Once I get the exhaust back on, I'll fire it up and see how the idle is. I'm expecting much better performance.

On the warming up comment: I wear nitrile gloves in the shop, and it's like having a wetsuit on your hands. They allow for decent dexterity as well, certainly enough that I can replace carb jets. My hands are toasty the entire time (granted, it wasn't much below zero here last night, but still). I even slip a pair on before putting on winter gloves to go shovel snow. Works like a charm after about 10-15 minutes.

On another note, I didn't do any empirical testing of the old shocks vs. nitrogen shocks because I couldn't secure them in my press. I want to be able to press them safely, so I don't get dead. My next welding project will be to make a fixture that will accept one end of the shock and hold it firmly while I operate the press. Should be handy for shock mods.

Is it liberating to chop and cut something you don't own, or beat on something you don't own? :)

You have a significant time investment re ownership there. I share. Use it whenever you want. I'm confident if anything breaks it'd be looked after anyhow. :)

Yeah, I'm always cautious around em as well. Pretty easy to catch one in the face and spit out a mouthful of chiclets.

Yes. :D

Thanks man. If it's cool with you, I'd like to take Luke for a ride some day. BTW, the tires with new tubes are mounted on the quad.

Been there. Didn't like it. Made me sad.

wow i never thout the exhaust was that bad

That must have been the stock head pipe? On the performance one that ships with the beast performance muffler I didnt see anything near that bad, but maybe I got lucky for once.

What did I miss here?? :?

The porting of the stock head pipe. The collar that is attached to the head pipe was welded on internally, so the weld bead impedes flow. Or, it used to. :D

Yes Pete, that was the stock pipe that I attached the Pit Bike exhaust to. Funny that the Beast performance pipe didn't need porting, because the Monster performance pipe sure did.

Duh I was still on the shock and chicklets bit.. get it now..

Well, I'm going to wait for an exhaust leak before I pull it off to check again, but now I'm second guessing myself. Its also quite possible the performance piece and the stock piece are made in two different factories, etc, but I just cant imagine me seeing that and not whipping out my fav tool...Mr. Dremel.

Mr. Die Grinder (of the 120 volt family) is much more agressive. :D

Pete, did you have an exhaust gasket? If not, I can point you to an eBay vendor that sells a pack of four for cheap.

Also, do you think you might have a vaccuum leak where the intake meets the head? Just curious. In T's case, it sure explains why the PO couldn't make it run.

Negative on the leaks. I puffed quite a bit of smoke near all suspect areas and it wafted away. Nothing got sucked in that I could see. I have some copper crush washers at work, no gaskets for between pipe and can although I do have material to cut from, but the exhaust on the mini can wait until gio sends me my missing box of hardware. Thanks though!

Wow! That thing with the intake o-ring is wild! I will have to get mine out for a rip and see how it is now... Seems to be running really well, but have to ride it to tell for sure. If mine is still acting up, I will definitely check that o-ring... Might explain why fiddling with the stock carb made no difference at all in the way it ran. (though I still suspect a float issue on that one) Thanks for letting us know what to look for, would be an elusive thing to find otherwise.

Regards,
Stew

You're welcome Stew. :D

Pete, I didn't ask my question properly. Does your Beast have an exhaust gasket where the pipe meets the head? T's was missing (maybe from the PO).

Does your Beast have a gasket there, D?

I know my Mini Beast didn't have one there either. The pipe just slides into the port and is clamped in by a hard metal bracket shaped like a gasket.

Yes. I got 1 new one when i recieved the beast performance anchor, er, pipe.

Since the bike had zero hours on it (from me) when I changed head pipes, I reused the existing gasket although once crushed I shouldnt have, but it worked.

So I have 1 new, unused one stashed....wouldnt mind 4 though :)

Here's the exhaust gaskets I bought: http://cgi.ebay.ca/HONDA-GL1500-GL18...item19b75b5380

Search for item #110450398080 if the link is dead, or search for siriusconincnosparts on eBay.

TurboT, yes, our Beast came with an exhaust gasket. It blew out the day you and I were riding and burned a hole in my riding pants. :lol: I secured the bolts on yours with red Loctite when I replaced your gasket.

Stew reminded me about the float level in the PZ30 carbs. I remove the bowl, invert the carb and check to see that the parting line on the float is parallel with the bowl mounting surface. If the parting line isn't parallel, carefully bend the float arm until it is. I also remove the floats and submerge them in water to be sure that they don't leak.

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t...FloatLevel.jpg

This fuzzy photo (I took it in the dark) shows the socket head cap screw I installed to replace the too-short bolt, the NGK plug wire, the NGK plug boot and the heat paint on the exhaust pipe.

After welding an extension on the exhaust pipe, I decided it was time to try and preserve the pipe. Brush-on Tremclad flat black heat paint is my preference. I also cleaned the rust off of the heat shields with some 000 steel wool and then shot 'em with a clear spray bomb. Hopefully they stay rust free for awhile. They kinda look like stainless now. Sorta.

I found a loose plug boot on T's quad when I was chasing the vacuum leak, so I swapped it for this NGK I had in stock (I know I could've tightened it, but this was an upgrade opportunity :D ). The NGK wire is much more supple in cold weather than the stocker and this particular boot doesn't have a resistor. Since the plug is a resistor type, I figured we could get away with this boot and not affect the CDI. We'll find out on test and tune day.

That's as close as you're getting to a polished exhaust, T. :lol:

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t.../HeatPaint.jpg

When did you do all this now??

If I knew you'd be wrenching on my unit today I would've come out. Thought you were tied up today..

Leftover stuff from Friday. I was replacing drywall and light fixtures on Saturday and Sunday.

Alright just making sure... don't want you working on my quad when the wife has other plans for you. :)

here r u running the performance cdi on that atv too???? i just got mine but still did not put it on

I don't think it's on yet. Our plan I *THINK* was to see how the carb and exhaust mods made on the power, then install the CDI for an additional check.

I do have one for it though, and it'll be on soon.

I liked how it made my 110cc Mini Beast run though.

I have every air tool known to man...at work :) unfortunatly I do not have a compressor at home so I finesse it with a Dremel or murder it with an angle grinder.

Oh, I tried a pair of those Nitrile gloves, but I cant seem to get them over my ears.....:)

A further update on TurboT's quad (this is at your request, Mizke):

T and I dismantled the rear axle and swingarm of his Beast for service, and we have a few things that are noteworthy. First, just pound both swingarm bushings out from the same side. Find a socket or a piece of tube that matches the OD of the bushing, and give 'er.

Second, we can confirm that the same 1/4" difference occurs with T's rear axle as mine. That is, the axle mounts are 1/4" wider than the mounts on the swingarm. Spacers cut from DOM tube solved that.

Third, the bearings in the axle housing are sealed, but T's were totally dead. So much so that it was difficult to turn the rear axle by hand with the rear wheels removed. I removed the axle from the housing and pounded out the bearings. I'll be picking up new bearings and seals next week, and I drilled and tapped the housing for a zerk. I'm not going to reuse the tube that sits between the bearings, because the housing is stepped inside, meaning that the bearings can only go in so far.

Axle tube with spacer:

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t...TubeSpacer.jpg

Bearing and seal:

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t...leBearings.jpg

Bare axle housing with step:

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t...xleHousing.jpg

Tapping for 1/4-28 threads (use a #3 bit for the hole size):

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t...astAxleTap.jpg

New zerk:

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t...stAxleZerk.jpg

It's totally worth it to have the #3 bit and 1/4-28 tap. You can buy these items individually at most industrial tool shops. The purpose of the new zerk is to fill the space between the bearings with grease, which displaces water.

thanks dude, nice write up..

question tho how far down in the axle housing do the bearings sit ?

You're welcome. :)

If you look at the photo of the bare axle housing, you'll see the step that is about 1" down. The space from the step to the surface is occupied by the bearing and the seal.

BTW, the replacement seal doesn't need to be exactly the same width as the original; the only things that really matter are ID and OD. I'll report part numbers upon purchasing replacements.

alright as well as posting them here, pm them to me and i will add them to the thread i started with the honda/yamaha part numbers that work with our quad...

can you snap a picture of the whole axle not hte axle housing